Official Sony KDS-XXA3000 OWNERS THREAD! - Page 401

I believe Sony will sell you one up to one year from the date of purchase. It's a ServiceNet warranty and I've heard they are a solid company.

It is common on prior Sony RP LCD models. I had one replaced in my 60XS955.

I do not believe it's common on the A3000's.

After 3 replacements it seems common to me.

I ran the THX program over the weekend on using the component cables and didn't need to make any drastic changes after having started with the picture settings already set witht the HDMI input. I can't say that 1 cable is out performing the other so I'm staying with the component for connecting to Verizon's HD receiver and HDMI to my DVD player.

The annoying sound hasn't returned for over a week. The technician hasn't returned with a new power supply so I'm calling him to cancel the return trip. I'll wait until the problem returns and can be duplicated before I do anything else.

i recently switched my iris mode from min to auto 2 and did a couple of tweaks and it looks awesome, although i can see what people are saying like the grayscale is overblown a little from 60-100% in auto 2, my color temp was really close to 6500 on min, i imagine its been spiked since i turned to auto 2, does anyone know if thats the case, IMO it makes sense that the blue would spike since there is more light, like i wouldnt be surprised if it jumped 1000k or more

I remember reading about your problems but I don't remember hearing of many other people having problems with the A3000's...yet. And three failures to one person is really extreme. It would seem very possible that something else (undiagnosed) is wrong with your set causing the optical block failures.

Our sets are now 1-1.5 years old and are accumulating some hours, mine has 5,500 on it now. The OB in my 60XS955 failed at 10,000 hours.

Hello,

I purchased my 55A3000 last Summer from BB. It was a store display with thousands of hours. As soon as I got it, I called Sony and told them the display was a bit dark. Amazingly, they sent out a new bulb no questions asked. They did take my CC number and would have billed my card had I not mailed back the original bulb.

Since then, I have put at least 3000 more hours on it. Knock on wood, it has been great. On the whole, it seems many of the critical issues of the previous generation SXRD's have been rectified. Truly surprised to hear someone having three optical boards fail.
Cheers,
AD

Well, after 2 weeks w/ the new OB, i'm starting to notice the green skin tones creep back in. BD is here and there w/ green but with overall crummy skin tones. Going back to hd cable, most everything has the green tint again. Seems that this tv is a lemon w/ a lime green tint.
I wonder how many times Sony is willing to repair this beast?

That is strange. You seem to be the only person here who has had OB failures on the A3000 series. Let alone 3 failures. Perhaps your display is cursed.

Shame as it gives the "SXRD's are lemons people" ammunition. Which really sucks considering how few issues have been observed with the A3000's. Even the 2020's seem to be doing considerably better than the previous generations.

I own a Kuro as well and I still love my A3000. I also own a 34XBR910. Of them all, the SXRD has brought the most enjoyment. It is a shame that the earlier generations have sullied the reputation of this technology.

AD

Did you also have the video board replaced on the last repair?

That really stinks. I would be ready to put a hole through the wall at this point. At this point they should be giving you options for an LCD replacement or a refund. I would take the refund and go after a 2009 Panny plasma when they come out. They are rumored to be inexpensive, and all the models other than the entry level one have 1080 lines of motion resolution.

How does the A3000 compare to the Kuro for motion resolution out of curiosity? The Kuro will obviously be better, but is it as least close?

Hello,
With Motion Enhancer and Motion Naturalizer set to off, I have been quite pleased with motion resolution. I use the A3000 in my main HT rig and have played a decent amount of Halo 3, Madden, COD4, and many other games to great effect. I have had no issues with lag.

The Kuro(5020FD) is set up in my bedroom replacing the 34XBR910. At least the Guest Bedroom has an excellent display. Maybe too good as most visitors stay longer than expected. Might also be proximity to one of the best beaches in Florida.

I must say the Pioneer is a gorgeous display. That being said, I have no plans to move it to the main system due to my satisfaction with the A3000.
Cheers,
AD

fp,

didn't another poster who thought he had an OB failure actually have the video board or what ever it was replaced, because that was the real issue? I remember something to that affect in a recent discussion. Aren't they just switching out the optical block and not the video board?

I occasionally get this. It seems to only happen on certain stations. Because of this I never thought it was the 3000 but the broadcast.

Something else is wrong with that TV. Whatever it is, that is what is causing your problems. It "may" be causing the OB's to fail, there is NO WAY you would have 4 OB failures unless something else was causing it. They need to find the "real" problem.

Damn that sucks FP. I must say you are a very patient man, because if I was in your shoes the A3000 would have been gone after strike 2. Mine has not given me a peep in over a year I've owned it(knocks on wood). What are you planning to do? Keep trying or move on to something else?
Good Luck

Yes, he did a video board replacement in March of 08 shortly after he replaced the OB. The fact is after he replaced the OB each time it was fine...for a time. When he replaced the board the last time it lasted for 9 months before it started again. It might be a combo of the two...who knows.

The first two OBs were under the Sony warranty, these two will be under the Service Net warranty from Sony. I believe they have a three same repair problem limit w/ the fourth triggering replacement.
I agree at this point that there is something else causing the failures...but what? The cooling fans operate, it's away from the wall, the room is usually very cool, it's only used a few hours a day....

If anyone's interested, I was at an HH Gregg's in Trussville AL (just outside of Birmingham) today & saw that they had an open box KDS-50A3000. I bought mine at this store February of last year & I'm still loving it.

How about the power supply ? I thought that had come up as a problem for someone here.

How many people have experienced this green hue in skin tones? I am out of my manufacturers warranty.

I have it and it can be reduced with the White Balance bias, however I am at the limits on the dark/shadow bias. I can still see it on certain program material even with the adjustments. I have a scheduled service call but I have no idea what they are changing, they ordered parts based on my description of the problem.

Andy

There were some posts a while back from a guy who originally thought his OB was bad but it turned out to be some sort of voltage regulator (or something) on one of the boards.

You need to find a good tech who knows how to check the signals/voltage going to the OB.

Hope you can find the real problem, it would be a shame if you had to give up the set, there's very little out there than can compare to the picture of a properly working A3000 (the Kuro plasmas in a light controlled room). In a bright room, nothing compares.

I had it too until I changed the White Balance to he below settings
All the way down to -19 on G-Gain

As I've said before, I think some of this green issue is simply a greyscale calibration problem. I'm not sure, but I don't believe the greyscale or white balance user settings have the same degree of latitude as you have with the service menu settings.

Yanking the green that far down is going to muck up the rest of the colors...i've tried.

I'd hate to see what your grayscale and color temp look like if these were just random adjustments. Are you using any type of calibration equipment and software, and do you have the grayscale and color temp curves to back up these settings ?

My contrast is set at 80. Does anyone here think that is too low? I'd like to maximize contrast but not at the expense of grayscale or cause colorshift(which I'm pretty sure doesn't happen). I really don't know what to look for in the grayscale when adjusting the picture setting.

I've got mine set at 95. I calibrated mine using an Eye-One Display, and found that 95 was the highest setting at which there was no color shift in the gray scale at 109% IRE. My goal was to max contrast while having no color shift at max headroom white.

Mine too is roughly around 95 (actually calibrated through the service menu) but that was the max before color shift, clipping, etc.

This in combination with Min iris in a dark room gives the best blacks and most striking image based on my relatively low lamp usage.