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Official Sony KDS-XXA3000 OWNERS THREAD! - Page 494

post #14791 of 15126
Recently noticed that my 55A3000 is developing a greenish hue on the lower left corner.
I emailed Sony and got a reply saying i would get another email to replace my t.v. with an lcd for a discounted cost. Four days pass no email, so i emailed them today and receive an email saying there was some confusion and that there going to fix my television instead,
which is very frustrating. Anyone have any recommendations?
post #14792 of 15126
Quote:
Originally Posted by Audiodork View Post

I was actually shocked at how many (few?) A3000's were sold. Regardless, it does seem I am in the minority of people who have needed multiple OB's.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Audiodork View Post


It is actually by following this Thread from the beginning that I came to the belief that OB failures have been far lower with the A3000. Yes, there were folks like FPSConvert who had something like 7 OB failures, but it really has seemed that many are still on their original OB.

I'm on my original OB and to my eyes, my TV still looks great.

My original bulb failed well before predicted length of life, but I had a backup ready, and I have another backup ready if the 2nd one dies.

I want to correct some misinformation I read in the past few pages. Sony did not "dump" these on the market at cut rate prices. For the first few months of sale -- starting in August 2007, these were full priced TVs.

http://goo.gl/FUJzl

Quote:


June 2007:

The KDS-50A3000, KDS-55A3000 and KDS-60A3000 models will launch this August for about $3,000, $3,300 and $3,500, respectively. The KDS-Z60XBR5 and KDS-Z70XBR5 ship this fall for about $5,000 and $6,000 respectively
.

However, the economy was not doing great and big ticket items were not selling well. Over $3000 for a TV was not a priority, so the prices were coming down some after introduction. There's always sales.


End of August 2007, the 60" was still selling for $3200:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...5#post11466875

Remember MSRP on the 60" was $3500? $3200 for a sale price is pretty close.


Only after Sony announced they were getting out of the rear projection TV business (Nov 2007) did the half price sales start. In January 2008, I bought my 60A3000 for $1700. It was $1850 out the door with taxes and delivery. But just a few months before I was in no way considering the TV -- I was looking at Samsung DLPs -- as Sony's rear projection 60A3000 was out of my price range. These TVs were FULL price (or close to it) for MONTHS.

Also, Sony claimed the reason they got out of the RPTV side of TV was because in 2007 while they sold hundreds of thousands of SXRD TVs, they sold 21 million LCDs. So, they wanted to focus on the form factors people were actually buying. Of course Sony made no 55" or 60" LCDs at that time, so we were all disappointed. I'll have to look up the data as it's been a couple of years ago, but it was like 350,000 - 450,000 SXRD TVs Sony claimed to have sold in 2007. As the A3000s were announced in spring of that year and went on sale in August, it was a logical conclusion that a sizable percentage of those sold were A3000s? But, now we find out that only 74,000 A3000s were sold?



==

different topic entirely:


Quote:
Originally Posted by HJustin View Post

My KDS55A3000 still looks pretty good and has been problem free with roughly 5500 hours on the original bulb. I've been happy with the set using my PS3 and SA 8300HD as sources.

Was visiting a friend this week and he had DirecTV playing a clip from HBO On Demand on his 55" Insignia LCD. I'd watched the same content (the first 15 minutes of the HBO's new series, Game of Thrones) on my set via Time Warner several times so it was interesting to compare. The image on his Insignia set was markedly better....looked more vibrant and had that quasi-3D pop that my Sony doesn't really have. I don't run my set at 120hz and neither does he.

I asked him to throw in Avatar on Blu-ray to rule out the potential difference in quality between Time Warner and DirecTV's on demand. The Insignia still had more punch to it but the difference was not as drastic as the HD content from our respective providers.

So now I'm considering purchasing a 55" LCD. I'm curious if anyone else has made the change to LCD and are they indeed better? I concede that my Sony may not be optimally configured, but I know my buddy is strictly a plug-and-player. His Insignia has not been tweaked at all and it was a floor model that he got a good deal on.

Just wondering if I'm nuts or if I should seriously start trying to figure how much to ask for my Sony on Craigslist. I'm going to dig through this monster of a thread and see if I can't improve my picture with some settings tweaks.

Thanks.

"I don't run my set at 120hz and neither does he."

What do you mean by this? Of course you run at 120Hz. It's a 120Hz TV set. The refresh rate is 120Hz, period. You can't change that.

http://answers.yahoo.com/question/in...8192212AARvJIT
post #14793 of 15126
Quote:
Originally Posted by richr8 View Post

Mine is about the same age and I have had no problems. The picture looks very good, but how do you check the hours on the bulb and after how many hours is a bulbs performance diminished enough to justify replacement?

I bought a new bulb back in November for the inevitable, but I am afraid that I have become used to a slowly dimming bulb and not getting all that I paid for.


HOW TO FIND BULB | LAMP HOURS

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post16981274

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...6#post15529836
post #14794 of 15126
I replaced my original bulb at 6100 hours to get some improved brightness, but since it was still functional, I put it away as a spare - just in case.

My replacement bulb from Advanced Lamps lasted about 3 months with 941 hours then blew. It looked great until it made a loud bang - then just the red "lamp" flashing light. Upon removal, broken glass pieces dropped on the floor. Not much question about it being the bulb!

So much for them. I'll be going back through this thread to find a good source for an OEM bulb.

Luckily I have a working bulb as a spare. Seemed like an unnecessary step, but very glad I did it based on advice here!

And hate to risk jinxing it, but no other problems with this TV - it's been great.
post #14795 of 15126
okay i'm reading back thru this huge thread but thought i'd post my questions because it might be quicker lol.

had my 55a3000 since June 08. Mack serviced it once (just dust. never had any optical block problems) and also replaced a bulb year and half ago. now bulb went out again. call Mack and my 3 year bulb & extended warranty ended 2 WEEKS AGO! figures. so i come here to find a good brand bulb but what i'm reading has me confused.

how are some of you getting replacement TVs on a set this old?

how can i get in on this extended warranty Sony is giving til July '11?

any advice on good replacement bulbs?

thanks!

edit: whoa, there was a class action suit?? i never received any mail for it. wonder if i can still get in on a replacement...
post #14796 of 15126
I got my replacement bulb here.
post #14797 of 15126
I too had the green tint issue creep up after my Best Buy extended Warranty expired. I bought a KDS-60a2000 in 2/07 with a 4 yr warranty. I was researching new TV's when I came upon the optical block issues Sony had with rear projection LCD's. I called Sony customer support this morning and the rep was very accomodating. They offered me the following options:
KDL-46BX 421 FREE
KDL-40EX720 $50
KDL-55EX500 $135
KDL-60EX720 $1075
They want me to peel my serial number sticker off the back and put it on a 8x11 piece of paper along with the incident number they gave me and take a picture of the TV on with the green tint problem.
I'm not sure which one I'll get. Probably the free one. I just purchased a new Samsung PN64D7000F to replace my Sony. I would like to thank everyone who posted about this issue in these forums!
post #14798 of 15126
can anyone share with me what they did with their old set (dump it, sold it, traded it etc etc), after Sony made the trade.
post #14799 of 15126
Quote:
Originally Posted by ngwest36 View Post
I got my replacement bulb here.
thank you much Ngwest! got me a bulb coming.

now would someone be kind enough to fill me in on this Sony exchange and warranty that ends in July? i've read through TONS of pages and still don't have many details. you can PM me if you like. ANY info would be greatly appreciated! thank you
post #14800 of 15126
I have an ever so slight pinkish tint that I can occassionally see on an all white screen. And I have to emphasize occassionally....also I have a slight greenish I see in the right corner but only on an All black screen. Honestly neither bother me, and they've both been there since the day I bought the set and fired it up brand new in February 2008.

If It never got worse (and it hasn't) it'd never bother me....But I do worry with the lawsuit extended warranty coming to an end I don't wanna be left hanging high n dry.

I do remember someone saying they all have this slight greenish in a corner and a lil pinkish on no input black screens back when I first got it, so I assumed it was par for the course with LCOS.

I use this TV A LOT, and Like I said...it hasn't spread at all since I've had it.


What do you folks think I should do?

*If it ain't broke...don't fix it?

*The evil I know (my current OB) May be better than the evil I don't know? (replacement OB)?

or

Is My OB Failing or been defective since Day one and I should either get it fixed or take an LCD (if that's offered to me).


Thanks in advance!
post #14801 of 15126
aw crap. here i thought i was a lucky one w/ no OP troubles. just replaced the bulb and now that it's nice and bright, i see this...

[IMG] Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/IMG]

(that's actually someone elses pic from earlier in this thread but mine looks identical, until i can charge my camera.)
the bulb had been pretty dim for sometime now, plus i've been away for an extended time, so i guess that's why i hadn't noticed it.

how do i start a replacement process? what's the best way to contact Sony about this? Facebook? thanks
post #14802 of 15126
Mookeylama,
Please contact us at sonylistens@am.sony.com. In your e-mail include "Avs Forum" in the subject line. Your name, address, phone #, model, serial # and the symptoms of your TV. Please include all requested information so that we can assist you in a timely manner. Thank You! :-)
Sincerely,
Evelyn Perez
Sonylistens
post #14803 of 15126
Quote:
Originally Posted by BTBuck1 View Post

I have an ever so slight pinkish tint that I can occassionally see on an all white screen. And I have to emphasize occassionally....also I have a slight greenish I see in the right corner but only on an All black screen. Honestly neither bother me, and they've both been there since the day I bought the set and fired it up brand new in February 2008.

If It never got worse (and it hasn't) it'd never bother me....But I do worry with the lawsuit extended warranty coming to an end I don't wanna be left hanging high n dry.

I do remember someone saying they all have this slight greenish in a corner and a lil pinkish on no input black screens back when I first got it, so I assumed it was par for the course with LCOS.

I use this TV A LOT, and Like I said...it hasn't spread at all since I've had it.


What do you folks think I should do?

*If it ain't broke...don't fix it?

*The evil I know (my current OB) May be better than the evil I don't know? (replacement OB)?

or

Is My OB Failing or been defective since Day one and I should either get it fixed or take an LCD (if that's offered to me).


Thanks in advance!

My 60A3000 exhibits similar spots. I have a faint pink and green spot noticeable while watching black and white content. It may have gotten very slightly worse since I bought the set.

My bigger issue is my continued deterioration of black levels, hence, lack of contrast. It's getting to the point where I am seriously considering replacing the set this year. Watching a dark movie in a light controlled environment is really getting to be disappointing as the image looks washed out despite being calibrated. My blacks are not even very dark gray; more like a moderate to dark gray...which sometimes has a slight blue tint. It wasn't an issue when I first bought the set; more of an issue in the last year or so.
post #14804 of 15126
so this exchange program ends in July? anyone else confirm this?
post #14805 of 15126
^^^1st time I'm hearing that the replacement offers will end in july.
post #14806 of 15126
Quote:
Originally Posted by SonyListens View Post

Mookeylama,
Please contact us at sonylistens@am.sony.com. In your e-mail include "Avs Forum" in the subject line. Your name, address, phone #, model, serial # and the symptoms of your TV. Please include all requested information so that we can assist you in a timely manner. Thank You! :-)
Sincerely,
Evelyn Perez
Sonylistens

thank you very much for your reply Evelyn! i sent an email. again, thank you for taking the time to respond!
post #14807 of 15126
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mookeylama View Post

thank you very much for your reply Evelyn! i sent an email. again, thank you for taking the time to respond!

Keep us updated...
post #14808 of 15126
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidHir View Post

My 60A3000 exhibits similar spots. I have a faint pink and green spot noticeable while watching black and white content. It may have gotten very slightly worse since I bought the set.

My bigger issue is my continued deterioration of black levels, hence, lack of contrast. It's getting to the point where I am seriously considering replacing the set this year. Watching a dark movie in a light controlled environment is really getting to be disappointing as the image looks washed out despite being calibrated. My blacks are not even very dark gray; more like a moderate to dark gray...which sometimes has a slight blue tint. It wasn't an issue when I first bought the set; more of an issue in the last year or so.

I thought maybe it was my imagination that my black levels have deteriorated over time too. I decided after reading that I'd set up a service call with Sony. Hopefully a new optical block will get the picture like it was when I first got it. Which was Awesome....the picture is pretty good still, but not as good as I remember it!

I'll keep you guys in the loop what they say when they come out. I live in Vista (San Diego county) Ca. and a company called QualXserv is coming to look at it next wednesday.

til then...
post #14809 of 15126
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidHir View Post
My 60A3000 exhibits similar spots. I have a faint pink and green spot noticeable while watching black and white content. It may have gotten very slightly worse since I bought the set.

My bigger issue is my continued deterioration of black levels, hence, lack of contrast. It's getting to the point where I am seriously considering replacing the set this year. Watching a dark movie in a light controlled environment is really getting to be disappointing as the image looks washed out despite being calibrated. My blacks are not even very dark gray; more like a moderate to dark gray...which sometimes has a slight blue tint. It wasn't an issue when I first bought the set; more of an issue in the last year or so.
The SXRD's are optical devices and subject to environmental contaminants. The interior of the set is not sealed completely from the outside - while it is very good at keeping dust out, humidity, smoke, pollution, etc., will eventually work its way inside and cloud the lens and mirror, reducing contrast.

I've included a shot of my last mirror and lens cleaning project. I've been cleaning the lens and mirror about once a year. (photoshopped to allow you to see the Duvetyne blackout cloth applied to the dark grey interior - which also increases contrast by reducing light scatter inside the cabinet.)

Properly done, the increase in contrast can be dramatic, especially if your set's lens and mirror haven't been cleaned before.

A can of compressed air will help remove any visible dust before cleaning - to avoid particulates scratching the lens or the mirror.

You'll need at least two very high quality micro-fibre cleaning cloths (one "wet", damp really, for the lens cleaner and one for light buffing after cleaning with the lens cleaner.) Only a light, delicate touch is required.

I use an extremely bright flashlight aimed at the mirror to assist removing any streaks or residual cloudiness.

Finish by wiping the inside of the projection screen with a damp micro-fiber cloth (water only, do not use cleaners on the plastic.)

You should be able to search this thread for a detailed explanation of how to remove the screen. It's just takes some time to remove all the screws.
LL
post #14810 of 15126
Quote:
Originally Posted by macshee View Post
The SXRD's are optical devices and subject to environmental contaminants. The interior of the set is not sealed completely from the outside - while it is very good at keeping dust out, humidity, smoke, pollution, etc., will eventually work its way inside and cloud the lens and mirror, reducing contrast.

I've included a shot of my last mirror and lens cleaning project. I've been cleaning the lens and mirror about once a year. (photoshopped to allow you to see the Duvetyne blackout cloth applied to the dark grey interior - which also increases contrast by reducing light scatter inside the cabinet.)

Properly done, the increase in contrast can be dramatic, especially if your set's lens and mirror haven't been cleaned before.

A can of compressed air will help remove any visible dust before cleaning - to avoid particulates scratching the lens or the mirror.

You'll need at least two very high quality micro-fibre cleaning cloths (one "wet", damp really, for the lens cleaner and one for light buffing after cleaning with the lens cleaner.) Only a light, delicate touch is required.

I use an extremely bright flashlight aimed at the mirror to assist removing any streaks or residual cloudiness.

Finish by wiping the inside of the projection screen with a damp micro-fiber cloth (water only, do not use cleaners on the plastic.)

You should be able to search this thread for a detailed explanation of how to remove the screen. It's just takes some time to remove all the screws.

I opened up my set and cleaned the mirror back in 2009 having had the set for almost two years at that point. I found my mirror to be very clean. I installed the Duvetyne cloth, as well (unfortunately, that didn't make a difference for me).

Given it's been about two years, I suppose I could re-open and try cleaning the mirror again. However, I really don't expect to find much dust especially as I do dust off the lense cover about every 6 mos. as my arms are long enough to reach through the side opening with a swifer handle tied to a microfiber cloth. I find hardly anything on it. I could probably check the mirror this way too. Maybe I'll take a look tonight.
post #14811 of 15126
It isn't dust that's reducing the contrast. It's a layer of "pollution" that adheres to the lens and mirror, like the cloudiness you'd see on a dirty window.

Removing dust, if any, should always be done first to prevent those particles from scratching the underlying surface when you actually apply the cloth to the mirror or lens.

I spent a long time meticulously cleaning and polishing the mirror, maybe 20+ mins. I found that light buffing with a micro-fibre cloth (one made for lens cleaning) really made a huge difference. A super-bright LED flashlight easily shows streaks or spots you've missed.

The lens is easy to clean, but you must remove the lens-hood to do it properly - also easy.

The difference was dramatic, even after only one year between cleanings. No doubt, my environment is a killer for optical cleanliness - NYC.
post #14812 of 15126
As much as I love my 60A3000 and the picture is awesome right now. I have about 11,000+ hours on two bulbs. When it needs to be replaced, it will probably be just because I'll want something new. Many folks here know what's good and why so I'll ask for some educated opinions. What are you guys thinking about as a replacement? How do the new displays compare PQ wise? Is the best Sony the best display out there? I would not want to down size from my current 60". Sooner or later we're all going to replace our A3000's and perhaps some of you have already done some research. Thanks.
post #14813 of 15126
So I called today to find out the satus on my service call.
Remember, I called Sony to report the problem...and I was supposed to have someone come today to look at it.

Well I hadn't gotten the usual "Verication" Phone call you get from these type places so I decided to call them.

The guy says...Yes, you're in vista right? I see your part came in yesterday.

This surprised me, that they'd already order the part without looking at it.

Well, Now i'm just awaiting them to call back and verify they're coming today.
I'll check back in once the work is performed and let you all know what the outcome is.
post #14814 of 15126
Quote:
Originally Posted by macshee View Post

It isn't dust that's reducing the contrast. It's a layer of "pollution" that adheres to the lens and mirror, like the cloudiness you'd see on a dirty window.

Removing dust, if any, should always be done first to prevent those particles from scratching the underlying surface when you actually apply the cloth to the mirror or lens.

I spent a long time meticulously cleaning and polishing the mirror, maybe 20+ mins. I found that light buffing with a micro-fibre cloth (one made for lens cleaning) really made a huge difference. A super-bright LED flashlight easily shows streaks or spots you've missed.

The lens is easy to clean, but you must remove the lens-hood to do it properly - also easy.

The difference was dramatic, even after only one year between cleanings. No doubt, my environment is a killer for optical cleanliness - NYC.

Well, I never did try removing the actual lense covering...this definitely has my interest now.

Maybe I will take it apart and try re-cleaning it again.

Aside from the microfiber cloths, can you tell me exactly which liquids you used for the cleaning?

Thanks.
post #14815 of 15126
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidHir View Post

Well, I never did try removing the actual lense covering...this definitely has my interest now.

Maybe I will take it apart and try re-cleaning it again.

Aside from the microfiber cloths, can you tell me exactly which liquids you used for the cleaning?

Thanks.

Stick to a good quality liquid LENS cleaner, one made specifically for coated lenses. You should be able to find it in either a camera shop or an eyeglass shop.

Do not use any type of aerosol spray can type cleaners, or household window cleaners - they contain chemicals that can erode the aluminum surface of the mirror and window cleaners typically contain wax, which is exactly what you don't want on the mirror.

The same lens cleaner will work for both the primary lens and the mirror.

I spray one cloth with lens cleaner and clean about a 4 to 5 inch square at a time. Then go back with the dry cloth and, using a bright light at a 45 degree angle, remove any residue or streaks. (The light will reveal streaks that generally cannot be seen easily, highly recommended.)

Apply only a very, very light pressure to the cloth and you should be fine. The cloth I use is 3M 9027 High Performance Cloth.

The lens-hood is held in place with 3 pieces of tape - remove two pieces and flip the hood back to reveal the entire lens for cleaning. Easy.
post #14816 of 15126
So the guy comes out today from QualXserv aka World Wide Tech Services. I tell him what's going on...he looks at it and says..."Oh these are fine" That's the way it's supposed to be:

Apparently your picture on an a3000 (according to him) Is supposed to look like this:

(See attatched)


Greenish on left, pinkish blue on the right. Okay!

Well, I called sony back...complained and now I have
Tech Expert express coming tomorrow.

I just want this resolved!
LL
post #14817 of 15126
I may be selling my 60A3000 soon. Considering an upgrade to a Sharp 70" LED/LCD. ChadB did a calibration/review in the owners thread. He said at the $3k price it couldn't be beat. It will be a lot brighter for daytime viewing in my family room with 18' ceilings and lots of big windows. There's a 55-60" Sharp LED/LCD in the men's locker room lounge at my golf club (lots of windows). Of course it's not calibrated and is operated in torch mode but the picture is very good and handles the ambient light very well. The difference from the standard LCD on the other side of the room is pretty dramatic. It's really eye popping bright and sharp. Of course with calibration and using a nighttime mode it could be awesome. And the 70" is 36% larger than my 60" (holy home theater Batman!).

Wonder what the 60A3000 is worth with an extra bulb and a transferable extended Service Net warranty which is good until March 2013? I bought the warranty from Tweeter (closed doors some time ago) but Service Net is the company Sony uses for their extended warranties.
post #14818 of 15126
Quote:
Originally Posted by BTBuck1 View Post

So the guy comes out today from QualXserv aka World Wide Tech Services. I tell him what's going on...he looks at it and says..."Oh these are fine" That's the way it's supposed to be:

Apparently your picture on an a3000 (according to him) Is supposed to look like this:

(See attatched)


Greenish on left, pinkish blue on the right. Okay!

Well, I called sony back...complained and now I have
Tech Expert express coming tomorrow.

I just want this resolved!

It's difficult to see the flaws in your pic (really can't). I don't doubt that they're there but I don't see them in that pic. When an OB went out on my prior Sony rear projection 60", there were distinct green blobs that would be picked up by any average phone camera.
post #14819 of 15126
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Clark View Post

I may be selling my 60A3000 soon. Considering an upgrade to a Sharp 70" LED/LCD. ChadB did a calibration/review in the owners thread. He said at the $3k price it couldn't be beat. It will be a lot brighter for daytime viewing in my family room with 18' ceilings and lots of big windows. There's a 55-60" Sharp LED/LCD in the men's locker room lounge at my golf club (lots of windows). Of course it's not calibrated and is operated in torch mode but the picture is very good and handles the ambient light very well. The difference from the standard LCD on the other side of the room is pretty dramatic. It's really eye popping bright and sharp. Of course with calibration and using a nighttime mode it could be awesome. And the 70" is 36% larger than my 60" (holy home theater Batman!).

Wonder what the 60A3000 is worth with an extra bulb and a transferable extended Service Net warranty which is good until March 2013? I bought the warranty from Tweeter (closed doors some time ago) but Service Net is the company Sony uses for their extended warranties.

Realistically, maybe $300-400...$500 if you are lucky. There are a lot of deals on brand new 60" displays out there. I'm in the same boat as I may be selling my 60A3000 this year, as well.

I have looked into the 70" Sharp as I am not ruling it out. However, given I enjoy watching movies in a dark environment, the black levels are not very good on this display and probably just slightly better than the SXRD. A major jump in contrast level is crucial for my next display. Also, the dirty screen effect is noticeable (although maybe not bothersome to some) on light/white backgrounds.....something to consider on the Sharp if you watch hockey, for example. However, even with it's flaws, a 70" screen would incredibly enhance big screen movie viewing I imagine.

On the other hand, the plasmas I have been considering (Samsung 64D7000 and Panasonic 65VT30 and GT) have their own issues. Samsung's quality control sounds terrible this year with screen cracks, screen coating peeling like crazy, inability to display 1080p/24 properly without jacking up the black levels. The Panasonics seems to suffer from fluctuating brightness and the likelihood of rising blacks again (according to insiders - although Panasonic claims the issue is fixed). I also am not sure if I can justify paying $4K for a 65VT30 with these potential issues.

So, for me, there is no clear-cut decision to even upgrade this year unless my OB got really bad or something. On the other hand, all of these displays mentioned are definite upgrades over the SXRD according to my calibrator, Chad B who actually owns an SXRD himself. No display is perfect!
post #14820 of 15126
Quote:
Originally Posted by macshee View Post

Stick to a good quality liquid LENS cleaner, one made specifically for coated lenses. You should be able to find it in either a camera shop or an eyeglass shop.

Do not use any type of aerosol spray can type cleaners, or household window cleaners - they contain chemicals that can erode the aluminum surface of the mirror and window cleaners typically contain wax, which is exactly what you don't want on the mirror.

The same lens cleaner will work for both the primary lens and the mirror.

I spray one cloth with lens cleaner and clean about a 4 to 5 inch square at a time. Then go back with the dry cloth and, using a bright light at a 45 degree angle, remove any residue or streaks. (The light will reveal streaks that generally cannot be seen easily, highly recommended.)

Apply only a very, very light pressure to the cloth and you should be fine. The cloth I use is 3M 9027 High Performance Cloth.

The lens-hood is held in place with 3 pieces of tape - remove two pieces and flip the hood back to reveal the entire lens for cleaning. Easy.

I will try this over the weekend.

I am more interested in cleaning underneath the hood or cover of the lens. I'll clean the mirror, as well, but I am less convinced it is dirty based upon cleaning it two years ago. For whatever reason, my house doesn't get very dusty and I am not even fanatical about dusting all of the time.

I'll report back my results.
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