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Official Sony KDS-XXA3000 OWNERS THREAD! - Page 506

post #15151 of 15255
Like others here, I've been confused about ordering a replacement lamp for my TV (KDS-60A3000), and decided to try to do some market research. I noted that the e-bay / "niosales" link posted by liquidmetal:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sony-XL-5200-XL5200-XL-5200U-XL5200U-F-9308-860-0-LAMP-/380081012931?hash=item587e9800c3
contains the number F-9308-860-0 in the listing, in addition to the Sony part number of XL-5200.

I decided to go to the Philips web site, and found a page for a F-9308-860-0 lamp, which, sadly, has very little information (no specifications). From the web page, you can download a PDF leaflet, which also has very little information, and a high-resolution image, which is slightly more useful. The web page does confirm that the Philips part number for the lamp is F-9308-860-0.

Here is the Philips web page for "Philips UHP TV replacement lamp F-9308-860-0 Original Sony":
http://www.p4c.philips.com/cgi-bin/cpindex.pl?ctn=F-9308-860-0&hlt=Link_ProductInformation&mid=Link_ProductInformation&scy=US&slg=AEN
and here is a direct link to the high-resolution image:
http://images.philips.com/is/image/PhilipsConsumer/F_9308_860_0-RTP-global-001?wid=2000&hei=2000&$jpglarge$

I then searched Amazon and was able to found this:
"Philips Lighting F-9308-860-0RL SONY XL-5200 REPLACEMENT TELEVISION LAMP"
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003JSUTRO/
This seems to be the only Amazon listing with the characters "Philips" and "F-9308-860-0" in the title. I noted the following about this Amazon listing:
The part number is slightly messed up. The variant of the part number "F-9308-860-0RL" (with the letters RL at the end) appears only in this Amazon listing, as if someone tacked on the initials for "Replacement Lamp" to the part number. It is common for Amazon listings (for anything) to have "oddities" like this.
The reviewer rating is high: 37 of 43 reviewers (86%) gave this product a four or five star rating. This is significantly better than the ratings of some of the lower-priced Amazon listings with "Sony XL-5200" in the product title (these are probably the "cheap knock-off" lamps).
There are currently 13 vendors for this listing ("13 new") . Most of the vendors have high customer ratings also.

I also found that the operators of the e-bay store "Niosales", or "NEI Lamps and Electronics", do business under other names (I'm not suggesting this is nefarious, there may be good reasons for a merchant to use a different name on e-bay than other sales channels);
The e-bay "Niosales" storefront includes an e-mail address with a domain of nesselectronics.com:
http://stores.ebay.com/NEI-Lamps-and-Electronics?_trksid=p2047675.l2563
Here is the nesselectronics.com website:
http://nesselectronics.com/
which in turn points to another, newer, website, "Shop Jimmy":
http://www.shopjimmy.com/

Oh, a note to Mookeylama, agentalbert, liquidmetal, Bill Misencik, ngwest36, and probably others:
no matter what kind of lamp you have, you definitely do not have a Phillips lamp, because Phillips with two L's (as an Internet .com domain) is an art auction house. The multinational electronics company headquartered in the Netherlands is Philips. Successful searches start with correct spelling wink.gif

Finally, several Amazon reviewers mentioned that the "genuine" Philips replacement lamp is being shipped with a flyer that "describes how to tell a fake Philips bulb from a real one".
Edited by Sonic icons - 7/28/13 at 9:30pm
post #15152 of 15255
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonic icons View Post

Finally, several Amazon reviewers mentioned that the "genuine" Philips replacement lamp is being shipped with a flyer that "describes how to tell a fake Philips bulb from a real one".

If someone gets one of these flyers and can scan it and put it online here, that would be nice.
post #15153 of 15255
Hello All, Saturday I gave my son in law my 2007 build date 60A3000 (that still has a great picture with Zero issues from day one), and I replaced it with a KDL70R550A. I'm very pleased and so is my son in law. Happy, Happy, Happy....
post #15154 of 15255
Quote:
Originally Posted by agentalbert View Post

If someone gets one of these flyers and can scan it and put it online here, that would be nice.

Here is the flyer I received with my lamp (ordered from this page: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003JSUTRO) :

(The resolution is not as high as the original scanned image that I intended to upload - I suppose that's a limitation of the forum - but it should be good enough)


Edited by Sonic icons - 8/8/13 at 12:36am
post #15155 of 15255
Bulb stuff...

I actually own the 55 inch version of this TV and am about to get a 50 incher from a friend (who bought it on my recommendation when they first came out... he replaced it when the bulb died the second time and has had it sitting around blank since). I've always replaced the bulbs with the genuine Philips products and other than needing to re calibrate the set the first time I switched from OEM to Philips (the Philips bulbs are a lot bluer) I've been very happy with them (The second Philips bulb is in the 55 now, third bulb total). However... having 2 of these sets now I don't want to spend the $100+ for bulbs every couple of years anymore.

Has anyone used the Buslink bulbs? I've read a bunch of decent reviews about their products... just wondering how they stack up brightness/color wise compared to the Philips. I know buslink is an American company and their bulbs seem to be fairly well regarded as OEM replacements.

If nobody knows I'll buy a couple of them (3 is about the cost of one Philips bulb) and see how they work out and post back.

That all said. I still love the set. I see no reason to replace it with even after 6 years. With the exception of black levels and overall contrast it does everything quite well compared to new stuff. Sure it takes a bit more maintenance (cleaning mirrors every so often, dust buildup, and bulbs), but the price to performance even with all of that is still a no brainer.
post #15156 of 15255
Got a 60" A3000 in excellent condition for sale. I'm in Orange County. Thx.
post #15157 of 15255
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonic icons View Post

Here is the flyer I received with my lamp (ordered from this page: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003JSUTRO) :

(The resolution is not as high as the original scanned image that I intended to upload - I suppose that's a limitation of the forum - but it should be good enough)


Thanks for posting that. Can you clarify which seller you purchased from? There are multiple marketplace sellers listed at the link. If you have the order fulfilled by Amazon, it's buying from "lowpricedistributors" but there are other sellers listed there as well.
post #15158 of 15255
Unfortunately the Amazon merchant I ordered from, Projector Nova, has "temporarily" closed their storefront. To recap the information:

The item I ordered "Philips Lighting F-9308-860-0RL SONY XL-5200 REPLACEMENT TELEVISION LAMP", has an Amazon stock number of B003JSUTRO. The link for that item is:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003JSUTRO/
The link currently shows five sellers, not including Projector Nova.

Here is a link for the currently non-working Projector Nova storefront:
http://www.amazon.com/shops/A25PNHJNKWARUZ

I suggest going to the eBay store "NioSales", or the separate website "Shop Jimmy" which I found by following links has the same owner as NioSales: http://www.shopjimmy.com/. It might be easier to verify in advance that the lamp is genuine Philips (with the various indicator marks on the lamp body, and shipped with the Philips flyer) by contacting the actual seller directly, rather than communicating with the seller through an "intermediary" such as Amazon or eBay.

edit: I looked on the shopjimmy.com website and found that a "Philips Sony XL-5200 Replacement Lamp" (either complete lamp with housing, or bare bulb) is currently out of stock. But "Osram Sony XL-5200 Replacement Lamp" is in stock. I would consider ordering the Osram replacement lamp from shopjimmy.com or NioSales/eBay, if you can't find a reliable source of a genuine Philips lamp. Osram is a "name brand" in projector lamps. Here is the shopjimmy.com page for all their choices of Sony XL-5200 replacement lamps:
http://www.shopjimmy.com/sony-xl-5200-dlp-replacement-lamp.htm

further edit: here is an earlier post by MookeyLama that mentioned the Niosales store on eBay - he had bad experiences with TWO lamps he ordered from Niosales, although the owner was helpful (provided a refund when first lamp went bad):
http://www.avsforum.com/t/889226/official-sony-kds-xxa3000-owners-thread/15150#post_23567421
Edited by Sonic icons - 9/20/13 at 11:18am
post #15159 of 15255
^
and here are two other Amazon listings for what should be the same thing, a Sony XL-5200 replacement lamp made by Philips (yes shopping at Amazon can be confusing). These listings also show "LowPriceDistributors" as the primary seller, and claim "Made by Philips, packaged in Retail Philips Box!".

www.amazon.com/Sony-KDS-60A2020-KDS60A2020-Housing-XL5200/dp/B002Y0XX3K/

www.amazon.com/Philips-Lighting-KDS-60A2000-KDS60A2000-Housing/dp/B003XO5A32/
post #15160 of 15255
I've owned a KDS-50A3000 since February 2008 and am one of the lucky ones who still is getting great performance from it. Replaced the first bulb/housing after a little over 8000 hours (bought from Discount-Merchant.com) and have a little over 4000 hours on the replacement with no issues.

Quick question ... I just checked the bulb hours with the following result: 13362-02684-12411-04350. I saw an earlier post which said the numbers represented "Boot Count, Total Hours of Operation, Total Panel Hours, Total Lamp Hours". Based on my numbers shouldn't the first two descriptions be flipped?

Seems like 02684 for Boot Count would make sense ... I've turned on the TV 2684 times for an average of about 1.3 times/day over 5 years & 7 months. Dividing Total Hours of Operation (13362) or Total Panel Hours (12411) by Boot Count means I have the TV turned on for an average of 4.6-5.0 hours/day. Not sure what the difference between Total Hours of Operation and Total Panel Hours is.

Thanks for all the great support from this forum, especially in the early days for helping me figure out the display settings. For what it's worth, I've always used Power Savings On, a fixed Iris setting, and have used a clearance behind the TV more than the recommended 4-inches (typically 6-inches). Don't know if any of this has contributed to my TV still working fine (probably not), but thought I'd mention it.
Edited by MetalMike666 - 10/1/13 at 10:07pm
post #15161 of 15255
Regarding genuine versus counterfeit lamps and different brands, the site where I bought my replacement lamp in 2011 has information on this subject:

http://www.discount-merchant.com/t-kb35.aspx

http://www.discount-merchant.com/Compare.aspx?ProductID=113
post #15162 of 15255
I did a bunch of research on these SXRD tvs after I received a 50a3000 for free from a friend of mine. I also owned the 55a3000 which I never had a problem with, but the 50a3000 has very blue blacks (which from my research is definitely the optical blocks blue LCD panel).

I can tell you that the a3000 series seem to be lasting considerably longer than the previous models did. Checking craigslist and the like almost every a2020 and previous listed has a bad optical block, yet I haven't been able to find an a3000 listed as such. My 55 has about 15k hours on it and still looks great. That said... the 50 incher only has 8k hours on it and it has failed to a point that the TV is difficult to watch if you care at all. The problems remained with that model for sure, but they do seem to be 'better.'
post #15163 of 15255
Hello, first off I would like to say what a great forum this is.. Been reading a lot of old post.

Ok the problem I am having is with my KDS 55A3000. Had this Tv for about 4 years now and a few months back the tv just went off. And now will not come back on. First thing I done was order me a new lamp from Amazon and tried that and prayed it would work but it didn't. But now I see I have 9 flashing green lights and 9 red lights! I been looking around and found the service manuel and it said 9 blinks was the fan. So I got the tv apart right now and I see both the fans by the lens and the one on the right towards the back work. For a few seconds and then they cut off and red light flashes again. But I notice if I cut it off and on for a couple times the pictures shows up then it goes black again! So I was wondering is there a 3rd fan somewhere and how do I get to it? Or is it a problem with the fans that come on and go off?

Thanks.
Danny
post #15164 of 15255
Quote:
Originally Posted by Da32212 View Post

Hello, first off I would like to say what a great forum this is.. Been reading a lot of old post.

Ok the problem I am having is with my KDS 55A3000. Had this Tv for about 4 years now and a few months back the tv just went off. And now will not come back on. First thing I done was order me a new lamp from Amazon and tried that and prayed it would work but it didn't. But now I see I have 9 flashing green lights and 9 red lights! I been looking around and found the service manuel and it said 9 blinks was the fan. So I got the tv apart right now and I see both the fans by the lens and the one on the right towards the back work. For a few seconds and then they cut off and red light flashes again. But I notice if I cut it off and on for a couple times the pictures shows up then it goes black again! So I was wondering is there a 3rd fan somewhere and how do I get to it? Or is it a problem with the fans that come on and go off?

Thanks.
Danny

I believe there are four fans, looking into the tv from the front, from left to right, they are called Chassis Fan #4, far left; Panel Fan #3, buried in the light engine, C-Board Fan #2, lying flat on top of the light engine, and Lamp Fan #1, far right deep.

The Panel Fan (ie the LCD panels) is generally the hardest to get at, obviously. Pigtails come out of the fans to M/F connector matings that are midway hanging in the harness, then the other end goes into bigger bundles of wire onto the Power Supply board or another board. Generally fan wires are red+, black- and white/sometimes yellow for sense. You can unmate the connectors and test fans with a touch to a 9V battery. Make sure you apply the battery to the fan side and not the board side!
post #15165 of 15255
Been a proud owner of a Sony 55a3000 for 5 years. At the time, it looked as good as any LCD or plasma out there. Still looks good and I have no big problems, but the blacks have lessened and contrast seems less. This is after cleaning the mirror and new bulb too.

What might be a good upgrade? I imagine the other TVs have come a long ways since I last looked in 2008. I’m looking for some recommendations. TV would be used for primary, with lotsa gaming. Budget is pretty open. Just wanna get the best (no 40k prototype lol). Read about the new ultraHD sets. How are they? Heard the tech wasn’t quite there yet. Is 3D still relevant? Thought it was just okay w/ movies, but really liked the idea for gaming, tho never saw it implemented well in games.
post #15166 of 15255
Thanks I found the fan and it was covered in dust. Got it all cleaned out and now tv is working perfect ad before
post #15167 of 15255
I went from my 60A3000 to the new Sony 70R550A. I went with th70" because an upgrade to 65" just didn't seem like enough. I love the new Sony. It's smart and it's Passive 3D. Much cheaper glasses than Active and I like the 3D picture better. 3D looks amazing on this set. I highly recommend it to anybody coming from the LCOS Sony's. You can find a PQ and a less expensive set but bang for the buck, it's hard to beat.
post #15168 of 15255
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mookeylama View Post

Been a proud owner of a Sony 55a3000 for 5 years. At the time, it looked as good as any LCD or plasma out there. Still looks good and I have no big problems, but the blacks have lessened and contrast seems less. This is after cleaning the mirror and new bulb too.

What might be a good upgrade? I imagine the other TVs have come a long ways since I last looked in 2008. I’m looking for some recommendations. TV would be used for primary, with lotsa gaming. Budget is pretty open. Just wanna get the best (no 40k prototype lol). Read about the new ultraHD sets. How are they? Heard the tech wasn’t quite there yet. Is 3D still relevant? Thought it was just okay w/ movies, but really liked the idea for gaming, tho never saw it implemented well in games.

I am eyeing a panasonic plasma for my next one. Burn in might be an issue for you though.
post #15169 of 15255
Quote:
Originally Posted by Da32212 View Post

Thanks I found the fan and it was covered in dust. Got it all cleaned out and now tv is working perfect ad before

Good work! I hope I don't have to do that one day.
post #15170 of 15255
We've had a 60A3000 for a bunch of years. We got 15,000 hours from the original bulb, not a typo, it may be a record. The number of cycles has more to do with bulb life than the total hours.

But it's time for an upgrade. Probably a 70R550A.

Some lucky neighbor will get a nice deal on a free 60" TV, they just have to pick it up.
post #15171 of 15255
No need to tell you this but....your right, some lucky neighbor.

My 60A3000 is in use everyday in my living room and it's truly a great TV even now.

Just change the bulb and off you go. I live in New Hampshire and we see alot of power fluctuations especially during the Winter with Snow and Ice storms. But it never sees any of that due to a UPS for the TV, Tivo and all other video gear.
post #15172 of 15255
I've been loving my KDS-55A3000 since it came out. Best TV I have ever owned. No ghosting problems of LCDs and no burn-in problems of the earlier plasmas.

But I've been eying a Panasonic plasma for a few years and with the announcement of them stopping production, I finally pulled the trigger. For that reason, and for space issues, I'll be selling my Sony A3000. It was good while it lasted.
post #15173 of 15255
Quote:
Originally Posted by Valnar View Post

with the announcement of them stopping production

It seems like each time a manufacturer gets close to perfecting a display technology that offers some superior aspect to direct view LCD/LED, they pull the plug. First Sony, then Pioneer, and now Panasonic. I believe that CNet recently reported that they considered this year's Panasonic ZT Plasmas to be the first that exceeded the picture quality of the Pioneer Kuro Elite plasmas which were discontinued a few years ago, and were previously considered the best flat-panel HDTV ever. The only reason I bought a KDS-60A3000 in early 2008 is that Sony never released the KDS-Z70XBR5, the set that I really wanted. I still have a copy of the operating instructions for it, and the rumor was that Sony actually had built a number of them but destroyed them rather than release them. Slapping the "Best" label on a TV these days seems to be a guarantee that it won't be around long.
post #15174 of 15255
Yah, this will be my third such TV that I bought at the end of a long road of perfection. The first was a Hitachi 36SDX01S CRT TV. It had a VGA port and could do 800x600. It was noticeably sharper (or less fuzzy) than most tube TV's. Bought the last floor model over 12+ years ago. I jumped on the KDS-55A3000 bandwagon very late too after all the reviews heralded it as a winner. Now this Panasonic plasma.
post #15175 of 15255
Hmmm. I didn't know Panasonic was ending their plasmas. Could someone post more info? Do they still have new models coming out this year?
post #15176 of 15255
Quote:
Originally Posted by liquidmetal View Post

Hmmm. I didn't know Panasonic was ending their plasmas. Could someone post more info? Do they still have new models coming out this year?

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1494086/panasonic-exiting-plasma-business-by-march-2014
post #15177 of 15255
Quote:
Originally Posted by Valnar View Post

I've been loving my KDS-55A3000 since it came out. Best TV I have ever owned. No ghosting problems of LCDs and no burn-in problems of the earlier plasmas.

But I've been eying a Panasonic plasma for a few years and with the announcement of them stopping production, I finally pulled the trigger. For that reason, and for space issues, I'll be selling my Sony A3000. It was good while it lasted.

So I got my Panny plasma in. Ugh. My A3000 spoiled me way too much. It is a step DOWN. All my eyes can focus on is the dithering artifacts in everything, like it's a bad snowy analog picture. Sure, some source material is fantastic, but some looks far worse than my A3000. Back it goes. I guess I'll keep my A3000 for a bit longer.


Unrelated note: My KDS-55A3000 has a slight whining noise every now & then. I'm not sure where it is coming from. If I turn off and on the TV for a mere split second, it goes away for awhile (like hours). Any ideas?
post #15178 of 15255
Quote:
Originally Posted by Valnar View Post

So I got my Panny plasma in. Ugh. My A3000 spoiled me way too much. It is a step DOWN. All my eyes can focus on is the dithering artifacts in everything, like it's a bad snowy analog picture. Sure, some source material is fantastic, but some looks far worse than my A3000. Back it goes. I guess I'll keep my A3000 for a bit longer.


Unrelated note: My KDS-55A3000 has a slight whining noise every now & then. I'm not sure where it is coming from. If I turn off and on the TV for a mere split second, it goes away for awhile (like hours). Any ideas?

My theory is that SXRD filling more of the pixel area than any other display technology is what results in the "film like" quality of SXRD projection. Direct view (such as plasma) only fills less than one-third of a pixel when displaying a primary color, and less than two-thirds of a pixel when displaying a secondary color. I think this makes the individual pixels (or at least the vertical columns of pixels) much more evident to the eye, because of the black spaces between them. It's a shame that Sony abandoned SXRD rear projection, but it was a losing proposition for them as most of the public wanted nothing but "flat screens".

I can't think of anything that would explain a whining noise that goes away when you recycle the TV power, unless possibly you are letting the lamp shut down (which by saying "a mere split second" it doesn't sound like you're doing). However I don't recommend turning the TV back on immediately after the lamp shuts off (or even for 30 minutes after). That is extremely hard on the lamp. If by chance though you are letting the lamp go off for an instant before you turn the TV back on, I suppose something in the lamp itself could be vibrating after it reaches a certain temperature and restarting the lamp interrupts it long enough that it has to stabilize for several hours again to set up the vibration again. I've never heard of this happening and I think it's unlikely. It's just a wild guess of a possibility on my part.
post #15179 of 15255
Quote:
Originally Posted by Valnar View Post

So I got my Panny plasma in. Ugh. My A3000 spoiled me way too much. It is a step DOWN. All my eyes can focus on is the dithering artifacts in everything, like it's a bad snowy analog picture. Sure, some source material is fantastic, but some looks far worse than my A3000. Back it goes. I guess I'll keep my A3000 for a bit longer.


Unrelated note: My KDS-55A3000 has a slight whining noise every now & then. I'm not sure where it is coming from. If I turn off and on the TV for a mere split second, it goes away for awhile (like hours). Any ideas?

99% sure the whining noise you are hearing is coming from the iris mechanism. When using a fixed iris it will sometimes start making that noise if it's been on a while. Switching to one of the auto irises will get rid of the noise. I believe this has been talked about way back when in this thread. cool.gif
post #15180 of 15255

Hey guys.  Nooby here.

 

My neighbor recently gave me their old KDS-60A3000.  I'm disabled and we've needed a new TV for years but couldn't dream of affording one.  It took me a few months to save up enough to replaced the bulb but I did get a Philips bulb after reading some posts in this forum.  I was actually shocked to see that the picture seemed really dim.  My 12 year old 36" POS is MUCH brighter.  I did a reset on it but that didn't help.  Am I missing something?? 

 

Thanks for the help!!!

B.A.T.Man

 

:confused:

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