Official Samsung LNT-xx71f Owners Thread - Page 497

Even the belkin level 3 is a little pricey... guess i'm just gonna have to try it though. Don't have much choice. Ugh.

I have a 4069F and i used calibration settings for that model tv, i guess i'll try some different settings on this page as well.

This very well may be a power issue though... I've been meaning to replace it, but the outlet i'm using had the bottom section painted over so i'm using the top section with a surge protector, and then another surge protector plugged into that one hahaha (tho the tv is in the surge protector that goes to the wall, not to the other surge protector)


***On another note, any chance this could be firmware(2002FW, 2000HW) considering that it mainly happens during film playback?

I don't think so. But you are able to get impressive pictures, so your power is OK.

I can get this one for $99, is this what i should be looking at or something cheaper?

http://catalog.belkin.com/IWCatProdu...duct_Id=178339

I just started watching Planet Earth on Blu-Ray with AMP on High... WOW!

Well, that A/R says line conditioner, but I can tell you there is not much line conditioning going on, beyond surge protection. I had one of their better units (Acoustic Research) and it was worthless for line conditioning. I still say you should get a decent quality one at cc or bb, try it out, then return it once you know if the power is the issue or not. From what you have told me in regards to your power, and the electrician saying your power was bad, and the pictures you showed, I am almost certain it is a power problem, but I would hate for you to shell out the dough if it does not work for you.

In regards to why it would be worse on the PS3 than on the Dish could be a couple of things. 1). You only have SD on the dish, so that poor signal quality could be hiding things that you would notice in hd. 2). When you run the PS3, do you leave the dish box on, and just switch modes? If yes, then you are pulling power from the Dish Box and the PS3, as opposed to just the dish box when you are watching dish, so maybe that is an issue. Try playing your PS3 without the dish box on. Also try plugging directly into the wall (you may have already tried this). Then try with the Dish and the PS3 into the same strip, and bypass that second strip. One other thing, do you have anything else that could be causing interference, such as electric heat, dishwasher, washer/dryer, etc?

Hi,

I've had my 5271 for about a week now and have two issues that is getting more and more annoying. Since I went from a 4671, I'm pretty sure something is wrong and was wondering if there's anyway to correct them. I used the same settings on the 46" and didn't notice this problem. Been reading this thread for a few months and never saw this come up. Kind of hard to search for it too.

I mainly use this TV as a PC monitor to surf and play games, monoprice 10' dvi->cable. The reason I exchanged for the 52" was because the 46" had some artifacts if there's a lot of action on the screen and also quite noticeable TBE. The 46" had 1009 FW I believe, and the 52" has 2002. No artifacts, and TBE a lot less noticeable than the previous set.

But then I noticed something else with the 52" that I didn't see on the 46". When scrolling through text it seems like the TV loses focus and the text doesn't maintain the clarity and sharpness. After I stop scrolling, .5 seconds later (or less even) it would, I'm guessing, re-focus, and the text would look like it should. The other thing I notice is that the game I play, WoW, can't maintain the level of detail when there's motion on the screen also. When I run through, I can see lines of textures degrading, and it's obvious when I stop, go, stop, go. I don't really play other games so I can't compare, but definitely did not notice either of these problems on the 46". The artifacts I saw on the 46" were from video clips and they aren't present on the 52".

Sorry if I can't explain it really well. I still have the 46" so I powered it back up to see if it had the same problem, but it's fine. Scrolling through the text, the letters maintain their sharpness. None of the characters look blurry, or temporarily appear deformed, distorted, darker, basically not normal, while scrolling. WoW runs great like it should.

I was thinking about upgrading the 52" to 2004 FW, but not sure if that's a good idea as of yet since I don't know if it'll fix these issues. Possibly related? Anyone else have or notice this issue?

Thanks in advance for the help!

My friend just let me borrow it on Blu-Ray. I was aiming on watching it with AMP on low, but perhaps I'll do it on High.

Yes, that would work, or at least let you know if power is an issue. If it gets rid of all of it, great. If not all, then you would need a more powerful one, like the PF60. If it does nothing, the power is not the issue, because that should definately get rid of at least some of it. Remember though, even with perfect power, when you are close to the tv, even in HD, you will see artifacts unless your source is absolutely pristine.

after tons of testing, I finally am happy with my settings. HEre is some DOA4 shots using them.

Those are some sexy screens. ^_____^

I need a digital camera. I'd be posting some pics all over the place.

Ok, I hear that you have some impressive pictures with your PS3, is that so? Can you play the PS3 and have no issues? If this is the case, then power may not be the issue. Do some DVD's look good and others do not? When watching DVD's, do you have grain throughout the movie? If no, has anything changed while you get grain, like you turned on the dishwasher or something. Is it better at certain times of the day and worse at other times?
What you need to do is test it the way I described in the last post. Make sure all appliances are off. Make sure your heat (if electrical) is off also. We want to eliminate any potential outside electrical interference, including any other components that are on.

Edit: Also, I keep looking at those Jungle pictures, and I don't think I could make my tv look that bad if I tried. If it is not power, I have no clue what you could do to fix it.

Nothing new dug up (no new UPGRADES [LOL] to the Service Manual ),however I will repost that aforementioned post and the 2 follow up posts separately as Service Manual & Observations #1, #2 and #3, forthcoming.

Anyone care to post a picture of a Disney animated movie on the set? If anyone has Lion King, Aladdin, Peter Pan, Brother Bear, PLEASE post a pic.

If I get my gf to bring her cam, I'll do so myself. I just wanna show just how beautiful upconverted animated film DVDs can look.

This is a repost/revision of my prior Post #9242, to clear up some confusion & provide additional information. Had to spend many hours going through hundreds of part numbers to find valid information. Problems in the SM stem from the fact that our 71f is based on the older 61series, and some specs have mistakenly been carried over to the newer 71f series specs which are obviously different, this combined with the manual being printed in Korea...obvious problems w/ the translation into English

Have some information that may answer some of those questions we have been tormenting over

Took a look at the Service Manual which covers all 3 models: LNT40/46/5271f.
For now I will just mention the more interesting (easy )things since there is a whole lot to decipher in this book.

First off: our model is called PEONY, in comparison to the older model (LNT4061) called Tulip, which by the way...we still share some parts with.

All 3 sizes have in common:

brightness: 500cd/m sqd (nit)
contrast ratio: 8000:1
response time: 6ms
dynamic contrast: super-PVA
picture enhancer: DNIe (FBE2)

those above items are also common to the Tulip.

also in common to all 3 sizes, as found in the spec comparison to the old model and also on some schematics:
LCD Panel is TFT LCD Panel 120Hz

The LCD-Panels Description & Spec as listed in Parts List
confirmed as available @samsungparts.com w/ cost

40" Panel, code no. BN07-00286A
LCD-PANEL; LTA400HH-LH1,10 BIT/120Hz,952*5.... $2092

46" Panel, code no.BN07-00441A
LCD-PANEL; LTA460HH-LH1,46FHD 120HZ,10 bit......$2539

52" Panel, code no. BN07-00447A
LCD-PANEL; LTA520HC03, 52FHD 120HZ, 10 bit,5.....$3288

Also of interest:

from the Troubleshooting Section
>4-1.3: The FRC(Frame Rate Conversion)Board can be changed independently of the main board if there is a problem w/ the FRC Board.
>4-1note:"FRCM: Micronas FRC Board-Peony model has two different FRC board, one is Samsung FRC IC (basic model) the other is Micronas FRC IC(derivative model)."

and from a note in section 4-3.Factory Mode Adjustments:
>"T-PEONAUSC-1000 and T-PEONASS-1000 are firmware......
over (I think they mean other) version 2000 means Micronas FRC firmware."

Well, that pretty much confirms what we thought: new FRC board by Micronas necessitated a new fw2k.

As volox mentioned there are 3 main boards:

Main Board (sort of like a motherboard) into which the FRC Board gets attached/plugged in (which in turn has a small T-CON plugged into it).The FRC-IC (which also has it's own dedicated memory DDR 4Mx32) is indicated as a 120Hz device which seems to get directly plugged into the 1920x1080p, 120Hz Display Panel.
The 3rd big board is the IP Board..looks like the power supply board.

Have more investigation to do on the validity of the FRC/M code no's they provide. And, after all this, I still can't even find info on the freaking BL bulbs

If volox provides the picts, I will try to correlate the boards with what they are called.

I just received my new LNT5271 from Amazon. Have not had a lot of time to test it, but here is something interesting....

I have a PC unit and it came with 2003.2 firmware. I have been following this thread for some time, and I don't recall seeing anyone with this firmware. Did I miss it? (EDIT - Yup, I did).

TV seems to be working pretty nice out of the box. SD looked pretty good... until I watched some HD. Probably shouldn't have done that so soon. Still SD is fine for what it is. I don't have high expectations for it... after all, that is why they call it Standard Def.

Tried playing with the AMP, but without having anything to really judge it by (better HD signal), I don't think I can be a good judge of it. Stutter was not an issue, but again... I am very VERY new to this whole thing.

Will probably see about some popular calibrations, but the TV seemed pretty good out of the box. Can't wait to see what some settings will do for it. \\

Out of the box I have no flash lights that I can see. Some very minor clouding, but minor is all I would consider it... almost like a small reflection. From different angles they actually seem to go away. I waited for the TV to hit room temp before turning it on. Patience is tough some times.

I went with the 52 instead of the 46 because I didn't want to be dissapointed... and I'm not. Damn, this thing is big. I like it A LOT.

That is the exact same issue I have with my 52", and it is also very apparant with regular tv, BD, etc. A face moves and it goes out of focus and does not come back into complete focus until the face is still again. I do not have DNR on, but if you do, turn it off. I assumed it was just normal LCD blur, and have lived with it, but if your 46" does not do it, then I am thinking I have yet another defect on this damn set.

First off...thanks volox for those great pictures and keen observations. In a way it's good that it's fw1003 since some parts numbers can be coordinated w/ the Service Manual (SM) which seems to not have been updated for many of the newer part numbers.

Also, I'm writing this immediately after viewing the pictures, and not taking into consideration the probable onslaught of subsequent owner comments

Volox has a 52" fw1003 panel BN07-OO447A=LTA520HC03,52FHD 120HZ,10bit,5. verSQ01. This panel is in the SM.



"The tech made a few comments while he was working on it... First, he commented that most LCDs only have 2 boards (1 power and 1 main) in them not 3. Second, he noted how the LCD has 2 sets of wires running to it; he said that most of the sets he has seen only have 1 set of wires running to the LCD. He wasn't sure if the two sets were because the LCD was larger or for some other reason."

REASON: Most LCD's are only 60Hz, our babies are 120Hz and the 120Hz FRC board seems to handle those functions, ergo the 3rd board.
The 120Hz panel is fed directly from the 120Hz FRC, via a T-CON interface, and Samsung has separated the 10bit LVDS(ODD) signal from the 10bit LVDS(EVEN) signal (one is 41 pin CN303, the other is 51 pin CN304).



"Now before you all complain too much... No I am NOT going to pull the heat sync off those chips to see which ones they are."

COMMENTS: Too bad...how else can I see the part numbers?

It looks like those chips with the heat sinks are the main processors.
-The Main board consists of the (Trident) SVP-LX Video Decoder & Scaler...this may be the one in the center of the board, since it has 2 dedicated 166MHz memory chips (DDR 4Mx32) associated with it... see those black chips to the left where it says DIP..those look to be the same memory chips used on the FRC board.

Another main chip is the Audio Processor MSP4450K.

The third main chip is (what they call) a Lake, which looks to be a multifunction processor which is tied to the USB1.1 port, and fed by NIM Tuner w/Splitter (ANT1 + ANT2).

There looks to be another main chip FBE2 which is a direct LVDS interface between the SVP-LX and the 120Hz FRC board. That FBE2 looks to be the DNIe picture enhancer chip.

Maybe the more knowledgeable electronics gurus would want to expand upon this information.
Again, at this time I am not sure of where each processor is located.

"The 'main' board has the following stamped on the circuit board
Rev No: 2007.07.02
Code No: BN41-00904A
Model: Rose

However the tech said it is identified by the part number that is on the sticker on the silver casing that the coax connectors come out of. That number is BN94-01432C........"

COMMENTS: That code number does agree w/the SM listing: BN94-01432C...ASSY PCB MAIN-AMLCD;LNT5271FX/*

"So the tech was going to replace my main board. I got a look at the one he was going to install and saw that it was a BN94-01432J. Now if you look at the parts site the BN94-01432 board are all main board and the C and the J are both for the 52" but appear to be different somehow. The teal sticker on the new board appeared to indicate a 2002 firmware"

COMMENTS: that J board is not listed in the obviously outdated SM. The older boards have A for the 40", B for the 46" and C for the 52".

"However here is where it gets real interesting... when he installed the new board and turned on the TV to test it, there was just a bunch of green horizontal lines that shifted to white once in a while. So I can only assume that there is some incompatibility between the two boards or between the firmware and the FRC board. So it would seem that if a replacement is needed for the main board the FRC board is going to have to be replaced at the same time - or - the main board will have to be flashed with firmware that matches the FRC board."

COMMENTS: Well thats not good but it looks like a good assumption.Too bad the tech didn't bring and install a Micronas FRC board first!....more on this below.

"The tech thought he might have a defective part. I told him I thought that maybe the two boards have to be replaced together. He said he would go back and research it and order another main board. So in the end I have the same board I initially had and still have stutter and am awaiting a call to find out how they intend to fix my TV."

COMMENTS: Well Volox at least you got to take some great pictures for us! and look at all the education everybody is getting.



"The FRC board
Rev No: (2007.07.04)
Code No: BN41-00918A
Model: FHD120FRC_EBGA

Now if we look at the samsung parts site there is also a BN41-00918B but both list as no longer available; so let's not here a bunch of guesses about that."

COMMENTS:That FRC board is 120Hz FRC-IC with a heat sink covering it and with 2 dedicated memory chips 4Mx32...looks like the chips to the right of it in the picture. The FRC is the last Video stop on the way to the panel.

The SM does list a FRC BN41-00918A: PCB Main,FR-4,6,180*100 and a related FRCM BN41-00944A: PCB Sub-FRC PEONY FRC-M sub PCB,FR-4,4,1 . Can't locate the latter on schematics and both items listed as NA on the parts website.

I cannot tell from wiring diagrams weather the indicated FRCM schematics is for the newer Micronas board or for the aforementioned sub-FRC. HOWEVER, and I reiterate the SM specifically states: "*FRCM: Micronas FRC Board- Peony model has two different FRC board, one is Samsung FRC IC (basic model) the other is Micronas FRC IC(derivative model)".
There is absolutely NO indication of two different Main Boards....but then again..the SM hasn't been 100% accurate so far.

+100000

The problems reported by the same handful of people on this thread, over and over again are not even a blip on the Samsung radar. Anyone who thinks a recall or major fix is coming needs to get a grip on reality.

Well Jim, looks like you asked the right questions but got the wrong answers

I will try to break this down into 3 parts, based on recent owner feedback and info from the Service Manual.

LCD Panel

per Greg Gibson post#11211:

"I have a 2002 FW set and 1013.1 FW set that were both PB serial date codes.
Both panels are HC05."

That solves the first problem. So the panel that many 52" sets come with..LTA520HC05..works with both fw1k and fw2k based boards: that panel will work with a fw1k Main bd + a fw1k FRC board, it will also work with a Main bd flashed to fw2k + a fw2k FRCM board.

the Main Board

here is the pict of a fw2k Main bd that the tech unsuccessfully tried to install in jimthorp's 46" fw1007 set

Attachment 97161

This board could have possibly come from any 46" 61/65/81 series set...it is relabeled w/ part # BN94-01432B, and flashed to fw2002.2.

The Service Manual indicates this same part # BN94-01432B for the older fw1000 Main board. There may be a minor difference in config based on set size: the 40" is A, the 46" is B, and the 52" is C.

That solves the second problem: So the existing BN94-01432x Main board can be flashed to fw2k.

youknowryan's post #11323 sort of confirms the above:

"the 1xxx and 2xxx boards use the EXACT SAME core chip sets. The implementation is a little different hence the differing software, but the silicon that is on the PCBs is the same."

the FRC Board

We still dont have any pictures of a fw2k FRCM board, but it is generally accepted that the 'change' of manufacturer, to probably a Micronas chip, hence the FRC-M, has necessitated the new fw200x.

SUMMARY CONCLUSIONS

All it takes to change from a fw1k to a fw2k set is to have the Main Board flashed to fw2k after replacing an older FRC board with a FRCM board, thats if the older LCD panel is upward compatible w/ fw2k FRCM board. It should work with an HC05 panel.

Maybe I missed something here, or maybe this is too simple that they just can't figure it out.

First, that goes against what Tier 3 has been telling us. Both in regards to fixing it or making things right, and in regard to the depth of the issue. Second, if you are right, I guess that means that people should not buy the set. If AMP is an important feature to you, and Samsung is not going to fix that feature, then why bother purchasing? Why run the risk of getting a stuttering/tbe plagued set if Samsung has no intention of fixing it? I guess that also means that the 6 and 7 series will also have the issue, so no need to buy those sets either.

So, now that we have all come to reality, I guess we should all start a class action lawsuit to get our money back, as it is apparantly obvious Samsung is not going to fix this problem, one way or another, regardless of what they say.

Sorry i'm flooding this thread with posts...

Ok i just watched SD DVD for the first time via the HD-DVD addon for the 360... it was anime and it looked relatively decent with a bit of artifacts around the edges of characters. I'm used to that with anime though, and its not HD anime, so...

Anyway, i finally saw flicker(stutter?) for the first time and it was indeed annoying. It didnt happen through the whole thing and i didnt have to reset the tv, it was like split second then nothing... again, then nothing... again, again... nothing. I am definitely going to UPG to 2004FW and see if it helps.

I also noticed that the SD-DVDs were being displayed at 720x480. Isnt the HD-DVD player supposed to upscale to 1080i even via component? How weird...

As for the power issue... i dunno. Not many of the appliances are on but the fridge is on the other side of the wall, the heater/AC is gas and far from the TV... not too many lights are on. The PS3 and Wii are wireless and the 360 puts out a wireless signal as well, not to mention my wireless in my PC and of course the wireless router which is located on the back side of the OTHER wall behind the TV. I also got a game chair for christmas that has a wireless receiver that is sitting inside the entertainment center that could be contributing. I dunno.

Guess i could experiment a bit with all of that... i will order that belkin 8 outlet line conditioner through work tomorow and take it home to see if it helps, if not i'll just RMA it and send it back. Too bad it only has 8 outlets. Could i plug surge protectors into some of the conditioned outlets on the unit and still see the benefits?

No, the 360 only upconverts via HDMI, dunno why. Though I haven't tested the upconverter for the ps3 with Component cables, so I dunno if it upconverts.

Since you have a ps3, I would advise you to watch your DVDs on that, since it has better upconverting capabilities PLUS less to no stutter.

Hey guys, I rented Medal Of Honor: Airborne for the 360. It's a sharp looking game, but it isn't 60fps like CoD4. Well testing it with AMP on High, and I'll be damned...it looks closer to CoD4 now. I'm extremely happy with what the TV and AMP has done with the game. It really brought it to life. It isn't exactly like CoD4, but it does hit 60fps every once in awhile.

I have no idea if a large number of wireless devices around the tv could cause a problem, but I don't think it would cause a problem with the pic in any case. 8 outlets is too few? I don't know what kind of things to expect by piggybacking with another strip. I would try it without the piggybacking first.

I tried turning DNR & DNIe on/off, same thing. Using the same settings and hardware with the 46", did not see anything like this. Also, I loaded up Maya just to test the two TVs, and there are some MAJOR graphic glitches with certain scenes/objects but only on the 52". Something is definitely wrong and I'll be calling Amazon if nobody knows of a fix.

Thanks.

1st:
A MUST Read about Surge Suppressors.
Series Mode vs MOV
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...76#post2421176

2nd:
After reading that I chose the Furman PST-10D for $175 at Amazon.
http://www.furmansound.com/product.p...=02&id=PST-10D

Right on! i'll check those out in a second...

As for the power ramblings earlier, i just did some more experimenting and unplugged lots of different sources that i thought might be contributing... by the way the dish receiver is all the way in the back bedroom, its only connected via a coax cable that runs under our place. I tried only having the TV and PS3 plugged into the surge protector... didnt help at all. Tried leaving everything plugged in but the extra wireless stuff like the game chair receiver. Didn't help.

Realized that the surge protector that's plugged into the wall which the TV/360/PS3/Etc are plugged into... was pretty old so i replaced it with a brand new belkin. Didn't help.

If it needs line conditioning, i guess it has to happen from the wall first? Makes sense i suppose.

I did some more testing... i put in lots of other HD-DVD movies and they all have the subtle grain effect. Menus, previews, and opening credits all seem to be really sharp until the actual MOVIE kicks in. So strange. I know my forest picture looks REALLY bad, but it doesnt look anywhere near as bad as that in person. But definitely still noticable. It gives you an idea of what it looks like, just imagine it to a lesser degree.

I tried COD4 and have AMP set to off... i spun my character and i get TBE on the reticule! Wtf? With the PS3 i havent been able to reproduce TBE like i can when it is set to Low. When its off it stops happening completely on the PS3. Weird.

Another thing i noticed about COD4... the outlines of everything become a bit jagged when i move around, and the the textures look like they are on "medium" or "Minimum" as if i were playing on a PC.

On my super cheap Hannspree Xv37 TV the 360 looked GREAT w COD4 and all the movies i watched on it.

This sucks ASS!

I am going to call Samsung tomorrow and get the 2004FW UPG and order that belkin level 4 line conditioner or something else in the linked thread about series mode surge suppressors and check it out on Friday. By the way, how big is the firmware upgrade file? Do i need a 1GB+ mem stick or would a 256/512 work?

If that doesnt help, i guess i will have to try to get it replaced or worked on.

Why cant anything ever go right for me with big purchases? ahhhhh.

Got my 4671 today. I've got FW 2003. Has performed quite well so far and haven't noticed any stuttering. I turned on some football and did notice the TBE on AMP Med and High...though it wasn't that bad. I honestly don't know how long it would have taken me to notice it if I hadn't known to be looking for it. I found a pass where the TBE was noticable and played it for my wife, telling her to watch the ball and tell me if she notices anything. She watched the ball and didn't notice anything. Then I played it again, and pointed out the specific instant that the TBE appears...she saw it that time. It's there, but it isn't that bad. It will be great if (when?) they fix it, but I can definitely live with it...the games looked great.

I also watched Pirates of the Caribean on BR with AMP on Med. and it was awesome. There were a few instances were I saw vapors or ghosts (or whatever they are called) trailing movement, but they were rare and quick. The scene with the Black Pearl chasing the other pirate ship and the ensuing battle was amazing (made me wonder how Master and Commander would look in HD ). Again, I hope this gets fixed woo, but I am extremely pleased with this tv.

I haven't tried out my 360 yet, so we'll see if there are any issues with that. But so far I've been watching HDTV and my BR's with AMP on Med and love it...no stuttering.

My only question is whether I should upgrade to FW 2004, or whether 2004 even is an upgrade from the 2003. I'm hesitant to change anything.

I don't think you need to purchase a power conditioner for such an expensive amount. You can pick up a BELKIN conditioner from "THE BIG RIVER" for much cheaper and I think they work rather well. Granted I'm not a super high end electronics user, but I think a BELKIN would work out OK.

Hi - Anybody have any suggestions for me?

Give me a source. I hear all the time "it does 5:5", "it doesn't do 5:5"... but no sources, just the rumor mill recirculating.

It's still a maybe in my book, but based on experience, I'm leaning towards it does (with the latest firmware and AMP off, of course).