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Official Samsung LNT-xx71f Owners Thread - Page 502

post #15031 of 28843
Quote:
Originally Posted by slouque1 View Post

This tv is really a stylish looking tv. I love the black finish on it. I just wish I could get the picture to really pop. I can get the to look good and HD-DVD's look 3-D like but to me it doesn't really pop. The picture looks a little dim almost to dark. I am using drs1nonly settings and really like them but it seems this tv should be capable of producing an even better picture than what I currently have. If anyone knows some different settings that really make images stand out and gives a good 3-D effect can you please post them? Thanks.

I'm not exactly sure what "pop" means, but it sounds to me like you need to get yourself a copy of Digital Video Essentials HD and calibrate your set as best as possible short of hiring a professional. Ultimately, IMHO, "pop" should not be the goal, rather, accuracy should be your target when it comes to PQ.
post #15032 of 28843
Quote:
Originally Posted by watsonte View Post

Purchased it today and will be able to enjoy it on Saturday...

Despite knowing what I might be getting into, TBE and Stutter hopefully wont begin to rule my life and take away some of the great things this TV has to offer.

Do what I did, as soon as you turn the set on check the firmware then make a quick call to Samsung if it is not the most up to date. By doing so, you'll avoid much of the PQ headache that is conveyed in this thread.
post #15033 of 28843
Onund, looking more closely at it, the right edge of the bar is quite sharply defined and runs very straight from top to bottom. I'll let you know what the repair guy says. Thanks.
post #15034 of 28843
Quote:
Originally Posted by jtaylor123 View Post

question, got my hdmi blue jeans cable last night and went to replace the one that was in it and turned back on the 5271 and cable box and the tv said "mode not supported"?? any thoughts on what the issue might be? I put the other hdmi cable back in and picture came right up with no issue. let me know what you think please. thank you.

bad cable?
post #15035 of 28843
Quote:
Originally Posted by studdad View Post

Just glanced at the post, but remember, we are talking about line conditioning here, which is separate from surge suppression. Hopefully those units have good line conditioning as well.

What does Power Conditioning do anyways?
I am new to all this.

From what I read at the description of the item, it does the following:

http://www.furmansound.com/product.p...=02&id=PST-10D
Quote:
Features

* SMP+ provides the highest level of protection available
* LiFT significantly reduces AC line noise
* E.V.S. protects equipment from dangerous overvoltage conditions
* Zero ground contamination circuitry assures the delivery of pure AC power thus protecting critical audio/video components
* Cable satellite and Telco connectors deliver advanced protection to connected equipment
* Isolated outlet banks keep digital and analog components from interferring with each other
* Selectable delayed outlets for amplifier and active subwoofer power up
* Sturdy Aluminium chassis



Description

For over 30 years, Furman has pioneered the development of AC power products for the most demanding audio, video, and broadcast professionals. Furman’s Series Multi-Stage Protection (SMP) delivers the purest AC power and the most comprehensive protection available — going far beyond what is found in traditional surge strips. With Furman’s Power Station Series, everyone can reap the benefits of unrivaled power purification and unequalled surge protection.

Today’s overworked, outdated power grid delivers poor quality AC power. When connecting sensitive equipment to regular power outlets, AC noise masks and distorts critical signal information which cripples performance. This is why it’s more important that ever to purify or clean the AC powering your sensitive audio/video equipment.

The PST-10 D all feature Furman’s SMP circuit which incorporates Linear Filtering Technology (LiFT) and a high current TVZ-MOV to insure that any electronic device (including televisions, projectors, CD-DVD players, or computers) is fed clean, filtered AC power. This dramatically reduces noise, ensuring consistent peak performance from your equipment.

Typical AC filters feature antiquated non-linear circuits. Though these multiple stage filters or power cleaners reduce some noise, they do so unevenly. In fact, they can add noise to your power line due to their filter’s excessive resonant peaking. With Furman’s proprietary Linear Filtering Technology (LiFT), AC noise is suppressed evenly, assuring maximum performance from your system.

Additionally, today’s power grid commonly experiences numerous electrical surges and spikes on a daily basis. At best, these irregularities can degrade your equipment’s performance, and, at worst, can severely damage your entire system. Furman’s SMP circuit offers the highest degree of protection available without sacrificing itself or any of its components.

Conventional AC conditioners employing older technologies leak voltage to circuit ground which can, in fact, aid in damaging sensitive digital circuits such as computer processors. Furman’s new technology, however, never directs voltage to the circuit ground further ensuring the safety of your equipment.

Another feature that is unique to Furman’s SMP circuit is automatic extreme-voltage shutdown. Extreme voltages are statistically the most common, damaging AC event. The Extreme Voltage Shutdown circuit automatically turns off the unit when it is fed 137 volts or higher protecting itself and connected equipment from the extreme voltage. Only Furman offers this degree of protection! Add telco and cable /satellite transient voltage suppression, and you have what is, unquestionably, the most comprehensive protection available in a portable AC power conditioner.


Specifications
Power Consumption: 6 Watts for display and control circuits independant of actual load
AC Noise Attenuation: Transverse (Differential) Mode:
> 40 dB from 150 kHz - 100 MHz > 80dB from 100 kHz - 1GHz
Dimensions: 2.75” H x 3.75” W x 23” D
Transient Voltage Surge Suppression: 120 VAC - Series Multi-Stage Protection (SMP) with a high current TVZ-MOV- Non-sacrificial with zero ground contamination
(188 V peak clamping @ 6000V 3000A input)
Extreme Voltage Shutdown (EVS) (>135 VAC)
Telco
Cable/Satellite (less than .1dB insertion loss) (2 pairs)
AC Current Capacity: Input - 15 Amps capacity required
Output - 15 Amps RMS (Maximum, all outlets combined - continous)
Outlets: 4 digital-ultrasonic noise filtered outlets
3 linearly filtered outlets
3 sequenced turn-on linearly filtered outlets
Safety Agency Listing: C-UL (UL standard #1449, #1363)
Warranty: The PST-10 D is protected by a three year limited warranty covering defects in materials and workmanship (see manual for details).

From reading all that, I tought this does what Power Conditioning + Surge protector does, maybe I am mistaken?
Like I said, I am new at all this.
post #15036 of 28843
Originally Posted by cybolt
Mr. Mini-Blinds here with my brand new replacement 4671, which I brought home Wednesday night. PC serial, 2003.2 fw, 1001 hw. Plugged my DTV hr20-100 HD-DVR into HDMI 1, played an episode of Monk recorded from USAHD and voila! Mini Blinds! Again! In exactly the same place on the screen--about 1/3 from top! Here's the deal: 99.8% of them are in the commercials (again)! The program is shown in 1080i full screen, no pillar boxes. The commercials, according to my hr20 are also 1080i but with pillar boxes, put in by USA, not by my box. Some of the commercials, such as KFC and a promo for Psych run more than once in an episode and the mini-blinds appear in exactly the same spots. Played another episode of Monk and mini-blinds again, in the same spots of the same commercials. At this moment, watching a live version of Monk, saw KFC commercial and.you know it, more blinds! The kicker is, once again I plugged into HDMI 2 and nothing! No Mini-blinds anywhere! Therefore, I don't believe this is an AMP issue or STB issue.

As suggested, I removed all other HDMI inputs, just the one from box to TV. Can it be possible that HDMI Port 1 cannot deinterlace properly, but 2 and 3 can? Since its always occurring in the same places of the same commercials with pillar boxes, could it be some issue with USAHD and them bumping commercials to 1080i?

Remember, this is my second 4671 with exactly the same issue so its hard for me to believe that I would get a second one that has the same, rather uncommon problem.

Request: Will everyone with this set and DTV HR20 please record Monk on USAHD (242) and see what they get with DTV going to HDMI 1? I have another 30 days to rectify. Get a Samsung Tech here? (Larry the Samsung Dude is THE funniest image I can imagine!).

I swear I'm not the AntiChrist but.. I have a BB one mile away, they have 2 Pio 5080s (one dollar less than this past millennium), saw it yesterday (stunning) and am tempted to bring it in and run side-by-side. Solutions first, please.

Remember: Ignorance is simply a lack of information or knowledge.

Quote:
Originally Posted by brichi View Post

I don't even have to wait till Monk, It is happening right now on 242, Law and order, mainly commercials on HDMI1, the tv info says 1080I

Did you move to HDMI 2 and did it continue?
post #15037 of 28843
Quote:
Originally Posted by Halvie View Post

To anyone with a PS3 and a 71f. Do you have 1080p24 set to auto or to on? Before when I had it on auto I wasn't a huge fan of AMP, but now that I turned it to on my eyes have either gotten use to it or it is working differently because I can hardly tell its there now.

Before movies like Troy or Alexander looked really "fake" during battle scenes, but now I can hardly tell its on.

You can look at the Info button on your Sammy remote to verify what your input is. I believe it has been posted that the PS3 on Auto puts out 1080/60, even if the DVD is 24p. You have to set it to On, if I'm not mistaken.
post #15038 of 28843
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kilim View Post

What does Power Conditioning do anyways?
I am new to all this.

From what I read at the description of the item, it does the following:

http://www.furmansound.com/product.p...=02&id=PST-10D


Line cleaning, which it appears that unit does. Of course, how well it cleans is what we are looking for.

Edit: and yes, all line conditioners will have surge protection as well.
post #15039 of 28843
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Tantrum View Post

Do what I did, as soon as you turn the set on check the firmware then make a quick call to Samsung if it is not the most up to date. By doing so, you'll avoid much of the PQ headache that is conveyed in this thread.

Noted, the store I purchased the 5271 from didnt have any instock, so because they are receiving a new shipment tomorrow I am hoping that I will get a set with the latest and greatest fw.

But I will be sure to call up Samsung and get the whole firmware bit straightened out
post #15040 of 28843
Quote:
Originally Posted by slouque1 View Post

This tv is really a stylish looking tv. I love the black finish on it. I just wish I could get the picture to really pop. I can get the to look good and HD-DVD's look 3-D like but to me it doesn't really pop. The picture looks a little dim almost to dark. I am using drs1nonly settings and really like them but it seems this tv should be capable of producing an even better picture than what I currently have. If anyone knows some different settings that really make images stand out and gives a good 3-D effect can you please post them? Thanks.

Two things. What's your firmware?

I have 2002 and neither drs1nonly and studdad's worked for me. You might not feel the pop with my settings, but if you have 2002 fw give em a look (calibration thread).
post #15041 of 28843
Quote:
Originally Posted by nahpxela View Post

Hi,

I've had my 5271 for about a week now and have two issues that is getting more and more annoying. Since I went from a 4671, I'm pretty sure something is wrong and was wondering if there's anyway to correct them. I used the same settings on the 46" and didn't notice this problem. Been reading this thread for a few months and never saw this come up. Kind of hard to search for it too.

I mainly use this TV as a PC monitor to surf and play games, monoprice 10' dvi->cable. The reason I exchanged for the 52" was because the 46" had some artifacts if there's a lot of action on the screen and also quite noticeable TBE. The 46" had 1009 FW I believe, and the 52" has 2002. No artifacts, and TBE a lot less noticeable than the previous set.

But then I noticed something else with the 52" that I didn't see on the 46". When scrolling through text it seems like the TV loses focus and the text doesn't maintain the clarity and sharpness. After I stop scrolling, .5 seconds later (or less even) it would, I'm guessing, re-focus, and the text would look like it should. The other thing I notice is that the game I play, WoW, can't maintain the level of detail when there's motion on the screen also. When I run through, I can see lines of textures degrading, and it's obvious when I stop, go, stop, go. I don't really play other games so I can't compare, but definitely did not notice either of these problems on the 46". The artifacts I saw on the 46" were from video clips and they aren't present on the 52".

Sorry if I can't explain it really well. I still have the 46" so I powered it back up to see if it had the same problem, but it's fine. Scrolling through the text, the letters maintain their sharpness. None of the characters look blurry, or temporarily appear deformed, distorted, darker, basically not normal, while scrolling. WoW runs great like it should.

I was thinking about upgrading the 52" to 2004 FW, but not sure if that's a good idea as of yet since I don't know if it'll fix these issues. Possibly related? Anyone else have or notice this issue?

Thanks in advance for the help!

What AMP settings? Have you tried to vary AMP?

Also, could you be too close to the 52"?
post #15042 of 28843
Quote:
Originally Posted by watsonte View Post

Purchased it today and will be able to enjoy it on Saturday...

Despite knowing what I might be getting into, TBE and Stutter hopefully wont begin to rule my life and take away some of the great things this TV has to offer.

Congrats! Don't worry, the TBE/stutter will not rule your life.

.... but this thread is another matter
post #15043 of 28843
46" 71F
Already searched.

Anyone else have very small lines that run top to bottom, on eitheir side of your screen. Tiny..maybe 2 pixels. They run perfectly straight up and down.
I noticed them when watching a Blu-Ray today.
post #15044 of 28843
Quote:
Originally Posted by watsonte View Post

Noted, the store I purchased the 5271 from didnt have any instock, so because they are receiving a new shipment tomorrow I am hoping that I will get a set with the latest and greatest fw.

But I will be sure to call up Samsung and get the whole firmware bit straightened out

Yes, it is good to have the latest fw

Available

Evaluate your TV for awhile before you upgrade. See if you need to. Watch it enough that even if you do upgrade, you can tell if there is a difference. These artifacts (mostly of AMP settings) require some training of the eye to see sometimes. Other times they are blatant. Learn what you have before you change.

My advice. fw 2002 (with 2004 in hand, not in TV)
post #15045 of 28843
I have the 1009 fw. I never calibrated it with DVE yet though I plan on doing so as soon as I can get a friend to lone it to me. I have calibrated it with AVIA and rather drs1nonly settings better. Does it even matter what fw you have as it pertains to what settings you use?
I don't totally understand what I should have white balance and mcc set to to achieve an accurate color.
post #15046 of 28843
Quote:
Originally Posted by ACEdubs View Post

46" 71F
Already searched.

Anyone else have very small lines that run top to bottom, on eitheir side of your screen. Tiny..maybe 2 pixels. They run perfectly straight up and down.
I noticed them when watching a Blu-Ray today.

No.
post #15047 of 28843
Quote:
Originally Posted by slouque1 View Post

I have the 1009 fw. I never calibrated it with DVE yet though I plan on doing so as soon as I can get a friend to lone it to me. I have calibrated it with AVIA and rather drs1nonly settings better. Does it even matter what fw you have as it pertains to what settings you use?
I don't totally understand what I should have white balance and mcc set to to achieve an accurate color.

Hard to be sure, but I think it does. I have 2002 and drs1only were not to my liking. I found some that I have not changed now for 5 days. Of course I have tested to see if a liitle more of this or a little less of that would be better, but I have always decided to keep the settings I posted on the calibration thread.
post #15048 of 28843
Quote:
Originally Posted by cybolt View Post

Originally Posted by cybolt
Mr. Mini-Blinds here with my brand new replacement 4671, which I brought home Wednesday night. PC serial, 2003.2 fw, 1001 hw. Plugged my DTV hr20-100 HD-DVR into HDMI 1, played an episode of Monk recorded from USAHD and voila! Mini Blinds! Again! In exactly the same place on the screen--about 1/3 from top! Here's the deal: 99.8% of them are in the commercials (again)! The program is shown in 1080i full screen, no pillar boxes. The commercials, according to my hr20 are also 1080i but with pillar boxes, put in by USA, not by my box. Some of the commercials, such as KFC and a promo for Psych run more than once in an episode and the mini-blinds appear in exactly the same spots. Played another episode of Monk and mini-blinds again, in the same spots of the same commercials. At this moment, watching a live version of Monk, saw KFC commercial and.you know it, more blinds! The kicker is, once again I plugged into HDMI 2 and nothing! No Mini-blinds anywhere! Therefore, I don't believe this is an AMP issue or STB issue.

As suggested, I removed all other HDMI inputs, just the one from box to TV. Can it be possible that HDMI Port 1 cannot deinterlace properly, but 2 and 3 can? Since its always occurring in the same places of the same commercials with pillar boxes, could it be some issue with USAHD and them bumping commercials to 1080i?

Remember, this is my second 4671 with exactly the same issue so its hard for me to believe that I would get a second one that has the same, rather uncommon problem.

Request: Will everyone with this set and DTV HR20 please record Monk on USAHD (242) and see what they get with DTV going to HDMI 1? I have another 30 days to rectify. Get a Samsung Tech here? (Larry the Samsung Dude is THE funniest image I can imagine!).

I swear I'm not the AntiChrist but.. I have a BB one mile away, they have 2 Pio 5080s (one dollar less than this past millennium), saw it yesterday (stunning) and am tempted to bring it in and run side-by-side. Solutions first, please.

Remember: Ignorance is simply a lack of information or knowledge.



Did you move to HDMI 2 and did it continue?

Nope, HDMI 2 and 3 had no mini blinds playing the same part of the commercial over and over, It only happens on hdmi1
post #15049 of 28843
Quote:
Originally Posted by lipcrkr View Post

What is your panel code # on the 46" and 52"? Some people in here may get a hint of what i'm getting at.
Oh shoot, you had the 46", well, i guess you don't know whether it was an 03 or 05 .



Lip....

I really believe that not many people are getting the HC03 panel anymore..

I had a LN-T5271 2xxx (NOV build) with a crap panel - line pixelated and it was a HC05.

I then got my replacement from CC and the LN-T5271 NOV build was a 1xxx. This set also is a HC05 panel..



Are you seeing any HC03 panels being manufactured anymore lately??
post #15050 of 28843
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjgarrison View Post

Hard to be sure, but I think it does. I have 2002 and drs1only were not to my liking. I found some that I have not changed now for 5 days. Of course I have tested to see if a liitle more of this or a little less of that would be better, but I have always decided to keep the settings I posted on the calibration thread.

what page are your settings on. I'll give them a try and see if I like. BTW when did you get your TV. I got mine Dec. 2. Couldn't believe I didn't have a newer fw in it. I also get what people are referring to as stutter but I don't get it to much watching cable. I get it mostly when watching HD-DVDs.
post #15051 of 28843
Quote:
Originally Posted by brichi View Post

Nope, HDMI 2 and 3 had no mini blinds playing the same part of the commercial over and over, It only happens on hdmi1


Well HDMI 1 is meant to be the PC port, so it HAS to have something to do with that considering this is your second set. I would call Samsung and tell them it's still happening on the new set. Has to be some sort of compatibility issue between HDMI port 1 and your box. Something in the firmware isn't working correctly, so maybe Samsung can duplicate your issue and fix it.
post #15052 of 28843
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjgarrison View Post

You can look at the Info button on your Sammy remote to verify what your input is. I believe it has been posted that the PS3 on Auto puts out 1080/60, even if the DVD is 24p. You have to set it to On, if I'm not mistaken.



Well as long as we are on this... I have a PS3 the and I have the PS3 set to Auto also..

Should I be setting this to 1080/24Hz do you think?

And if so, should it just be set to this 1080/24Hz setting for pur BR DVDs or also Std DVDs?

And then lastly, what AMP session should be used with this 1080/24Hz setting..




Thanks.
post #15053 of 28843
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjgarrison View Post

You can look at the Info button on your Sammy remote to verify what your input is. I believe it has been posted that the PS3 on Auto puts out 1080/60, even if the DVD is 24p. You have to set it to On, if I'm not mistaken.

I have mine set to auto and it kicks it out at 24p, so i dunno...
post #15054 of 28843
Quote:
Originally Posted by studdad View Post

Line cleaning, which it appears that unit does. Of course, how well it cleans is what we are looking for.

Edit: and yes, all line conditioners will have surge protection as well.

Ahh cool.
For what its worth, everything seems to be running fine on my side.I have the following connected to it:
  • Samsung LN-T4069F
  • PS3 40gb
  • Wii
  • SA 8300HD DVR
  • Toshiba A30
  • Impact Accoustics 3-Play A/V Selector (TOSLink/Component )
  • Logitech Z-5500
  • Space Heater
  • Air Conditioner
Currently trying to save up $$$ to get a decent AVR + 5.1 Speakers
post #15055 of 28843
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjgarrison View Post

Yes, it is good to have the latest fw

Available

Evaluate your TV for awhile before you upgrade. See if you need to. Watch it enough that even if you do upgrade, you can tell if there is a difference. These artifacts (mostly of AMP settings) require some training of the eye to see sometimes. Other times they are blatant. Learn what you have before you change.

My advice. fw 2002 (with 2004 in hand, not in TV)

Okay, is there any need to calibrate after a certain break in period? Or can I go through DVE calibrate and enjoy?

As far as the AMP settings are concerned I noticed in store that when on High there were instances of TBE, medium and low resulted in less so I will probably go with low at first...Of course I might push it just to see what I can get away with before I notice anything.
post #15056 of 28843
Quote:
Originally Posted by clau View Post

For me, the mystery is this. If an LCD is doing a perfect 5:5 pulldown with a 24Hz input, every frame will be on for 1/24 sec, which is a long time and will definitely cause retinal blur, UNLESS SOMETHING IS BEING DONE TO BACKLIGHT SO THAT THE IMAGE IS ONLY LIT UP FOR A FRACTION OF THAT TIME. I don't know how they strobe the backlight to achieve that. Philips uses the hot cathode tube to strobe at the proper frequency, but other makers have not done that.

That's why there will always be an advantage with 120Hz panel technology.

LCD technology gets very confusing because we are so used to CRT technology and terminology. I'll try to explain it as simple as I can to everyone:

Think of LCD as an etch-a-sketch and draw an apple. Now that apple will be there until you swipe it clean. That process is what's called sample and hold. Now draw that same apple and swipe it clean 60 times in one second. That process is the 60Hz technology. So now that (progressive) image is flashing (refreshing) to your eyes at 60 times a second and is enough to minimize retinal image retention.

NOTE1: LCD refresh rate is quite different from CRT scan refresh rate. In LCD, all pixels are refreshed all together at the same time. In CRT, each pixel is illuminated one at a time and this causes the flicker that we all know about. So LCD does refresh but not the same thing and terminology as we know about CRT.

NOTE2: Backlight is not constant but flashes at a much faster speed than that of the refresh rate and usually at a speed that is a multiple thereof. This helps lessen the retinal image retention.


So far so good right? No not quite. There is still one problem, the crystal response rate. This is the rate of time that the pixel turns from on to completely off. (Think of an incandescent bulb when you turn it off. The light lingers a while.) Now let's go with the typical 8 ms response rate. It's fast but not fast enough. CRT phosphor in comparison is instantaneous. The slower that light decays, the more we perceive it as constantly on. So in a nutshell, the faster the response and refresh rate is the better for our eyes not retain that image.

NOTE3: Motion interpolation is designed to compensate for the lack of pixel response speed that causes retinal image retention. The soap opera effect that we see is not its intention but a side effect thereof.

So to lessen blur (pixel response and retinal), one solution is to make the pixel response time faster. Another solution is to refresh (clean slate) the screen faster hence the 120Hz technology. Now why 120Hz? Because 120 is a magic number. We can fit all formats (24/30/60) into that number meaning that the screen actual refresh coincides with the material's actual frame and not inbetween.

I hope this help clarify and explain to people a thing or two.
post #15057 of 28843
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenEarDrum View Post

That's why there will always be an advantage with 120Hz panel technology.

LCD technology gets very confusing because we are so used to CRT technology and terminology. I'll try to explain it as simple as I can to everyone:

Think of LCD as an etch-a-sketch and draw an apple. Now that apple will be there until you swipe it clean. That process is what's called sample and hold. Now draw that same apple and swipe it clean 60 times in one second. That process is the 60Hz technology. So now that (progressive) image is flashing (refreshing) to your eyes at 60 times a second and is enough to minimize retinal image retention.

NOTE1: LCD refresh rate is quite different from CRT scan refresh rate. In LCD, all pixels are refreshed all together at the same time. In CRT, each pixel is illuminated one at a time and this causes the flicker that we all know about. So LCD does refresh but not the same thing and terminology as we know about CRT.

NOTE2: Backlight is not constant but flashes at a much faster speed than that of the refresh rate and usually at a speed that is a multiple thereof. This helps lessen the retinal image retention.


So far so good right? No not quite. There is still one problem, the crystal response rate. This is the rate of time that the pixel turns from on to completely off. (Think of an incandescent bulb when you turn it off. The light lingers a while.) Now let's go with the typical 8 ms response rate. It's fast but not fast enough. CRT phosphor in comparison is instantaneous. The slower that light decays, the more we perceive it as constantly on. So in a nutshell, the faster the response and refresh rate is the better for our eyes not retain that image.

NOTE3: Motion interpolation is designed to compensate for the lack of pixel response speed that causes retinal image retention. The “soap opera” effect that we see is not its intention but a side effect thereof.

So to lessen blur (pixel response and retinal), one solution is to make the pixel response time faster. Another solution is to refresh (clean slate) the screen faster hence the 120Hz technology. Now why 120Hz? Because 120 is a magic number. We can fit all formats (24/30/60) into that number meaning that the screen actual refresh coincides with the material's actual frame and not inbetween.

I hope this help clarify and explain to people a thing or two.

Not really, but don't want to argue with you anymore...

Note to myself: Never argue with anyone who believes majority wins.
post #15058 of 28843
Have searched this thread and clicked on just about every link on Samsungs web site and can't determine whether the 4671f is a 8 or 10 bit panel. It is listed as "10 bit processor", but I would imagine that this refers to the digital processing as opposed to the bit depth (color gaduations) of the panel itself. The description of the 65f series on the Samsung web site states "... 1,064 graduations of color ..", (which I presume is a 10 bit panel), however this same statement is missing from the description of the 71 series. Hard to believe that the newer, "more advanced" 71 series is not 10 bit, however it's a bit suspicious that Samsung is mute about the panel bit depth on the 71.

Does anyone know if the 71f panels are 10 bit?
post #15059 of 28843
I'm using a mixture of settings and my wife likes dynamic where the colors are very vibrant. I am using settings in standard mode and while everything looks pretty nice, it could stand to be a bit more vibrant and 'wow'. Any suggestions? I don't want to use straight dynamic because I feel the colors bleed a bit to much. Thanks in advance.
post #15060 of 28843
Quote:
Originally Posted by maser View Post

Have searched this thread and clicked on just about every link on Samsungs web site and can't determine whether the 4671f is a 8 or 10 bit panel. It is listed as "10 bit processor", but I would imagine that this refers to the digital processing as opposed to the bit depth (color gaduations) of the panel itself. The description of the 65f series on the Samsung web site states "... 1,064 graduations of color ..", (which I presume is a 10 bit panel), however this same statement is missing from the description of the 71 series. Hard to believe that the newer, "more advanced" 71 series is not 10 bit, however it's a bit suspicious that Samsung is mute about the panel bit depth on the 71.

Does anyone know if the 71f panels are 10 bit?

10bit, we found the actual panels and they say 10bit.
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