AVS › AVS Forum › Home Entertainment & Theater Builder › General Home Theater & Media/Game Rooms › CuznEddy Cinema Project Begins
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

CuznEddy Cinema Project Begins - Page 45

post #1321 of 1603
Thread Starter 
"Oh, and not nitpicking, convention is to post FR graphs with a 60db span on the axis scale, This helps orient folks when interpreting your graphs"

Yep - this was driving me crazy, I couldn't get it to display what I was expecting (that being an average reference level around 80db). I think my problem was one of not properly calibrating the db/spl pressure when I started.

So my question related to the initial set-up of REW: I know there was an opportunity to calibrate the spl/db setting via software. However; perhaps I should have first established my setup by using the sample measurement and setting my AVR gain to 80db with a "rat-shack" meter. The doing the software spl calibration?
post #1322 of 1603
Thread Starter 
NicksHitachi,

I think this what you are looking for:


And the corresponding waterfall graph. Looks cool (too bad I don't know what I'm looking for?)
post #1323 of 1603
Quote:
Originally Posted by cuzed2 View Post

"Oh, and not nitpicking, convention is to post FR graphs with a 60db span on the axis scale, This helps orient folks when interpreting your graphs"

Yep - this was driving me crazy, I couldn't get it to display what I was expecting (that being an average reference level around 80db). I think my problem was one of not properly calibrating the db/spl pressure when I started.

So my question related to the initial set-up of REW: I know there was an opportunity to calibrate the spl/db setting via software. However; perhaps I should have first established my setup by using the sample measurement and setting my AVR gain to 80db with a "rat-shack" meter. The doing the software spl calibration?

I swear while reading this, that it came across to me like Charlie Browns Teacher talking to him.
post #1324 of 1603
Quote:
Originally Posted by cuzed2 View Post

NicksHitachi,

I think this what you are looking for:

And the corresponding waterfall graph. Looks cool (too bad I don't know what I'm looking for?)

To calibrate your rew setup bring up spl meter, play test tone, click calibrate button on on spl meter panel, measure actual spl
with other spl meter, enter measured reading into REW and it calibrates.

As far as your graph, change the y axis to reflect 60db span or in this case 110-170db. This gives those familiar with REW a graph theyre used to.....


Waterfall, those areas where the waterfall comes all the way out ie. 50hz and 80hz you have major ringing. Higher up you see waterfall disappears before the front edge of graph........

That 50hz ring is the largest correctable issue i see. Itll take some serious bass trapping to tame but evey little bit you tame will pay off big time as thats right in the slam department.

If you have correction software like audyssey it will even notch out that area to try to tame the ring but bad part is youll lose output and flat response characteristics........
post #1325 of 1603
Thread Starter 
Nick,
Thanks for the fast REW feedback and suggestions:

MY response: "To calibrate your rew setup bring up spl meter, play test tone, click calibrate button on on spl meter panel, measure actual spl with other spl meter, enter measured reading into REW and it calibrates."
Thanks!!, You have just confirmed what I was beginning to suspect >> I failed to grab a reading with my rat shack meter, which I should have then entered into the REW software calibration routine. (I probably should go back and re-read the REW tutorial)

I do indeed need to use better etiquette by double-checking the span of my vertical scale.

As for the low freq. ringing and bass trapping:
I originally bass trapped the two front vertical corners, and the horizontal front wall to ceiling intersection (superchunk method). I am now wishing that I would have finished my soffits as bass traps instead of dry-waling over the soffitt frames. My back corners are somewhat limited (closet door in one corner and the opposite rear corner has limited space due to my overflow seating). That said; I do have a 1/2 roll of linacoustic to move around the room to experiment with.

Your comments about Audyssey being of help:
I have a Marantz 7002, it utilizes the older Multi-Eq. Didn't think Multi-EQ could do much for equalizing these lower frequencies. Although I am starting to experiment with a Velodyne SMS-1
post #1326 of 1603
Absorbent Bass trapping (more like midbass trapping) isn't going to help at 50Hz. Your best bet is to just put a little EQ on it. That will go a long way. Otherwise you're into tuned resonant chambers like Dennis E. puts into his risers.

No sleep to loose on the soffit decision.
post #1327 of 1603
Thread Starter 
Zamboniman - Thanks!!
So when are you going to start your build?
post #1328 of 1603
What language are all of you speaking? Oh, never mind I forget that I'm a noob when it comes to this stuff. Don't worry, I'll catch up.

Regards,

RTROSE
post #1329 of 1603
Quote:
Originally Posted by zamboniman View Post

Absorbent Bass trapping (more like midbass trapping) isn't going to help at 50Hz. Your best bet is to just put a little EQ on it. That will go a long way. Otherwise you're into tuned resonant chambers like Dennis E. puts into his risers.

No sleep to loose on the soffit decision.

I disagree with EQ being a better solution to ringing at 50 Hz and that bass trapping won't help that low. I'm basing this purely on my own measurements and experience.

BTW, I only believe half what I read over on the acoutic treatments master thread. That discussion gets fanatically derailed discussing highly technical debate which in our world of AT means little.

Exhaust treatment possibilities before you slap some EQ on it. EQ causes just as much problems as it corrects.

Cuz,

Are your measurements with or without Audyssey engaged? To see what EQ does to your response try this: With Audyssey engaged I'll bet you a beer every one of those modal ringing regions will coincide with a dip in your FR. Since your version doesnt cover the sub region. Look above the sub crossover with Audyssey dis-engaged. look for regions of higher ringing on the waterfall graph. Now look at the FR with Audyssey engaged whats happening in those areas of higher ringing? I'll bet Audyssey is cutting those regions to cure the Ring/Decay which reduces the ring by reducing your systems output in that region but now youve got a hole or dip in your FR.
post #1330 of 1603
Using the absorption approach ... adding enough to make a worthwhile difference at 50Hz you end up absorbing way too much elsewhere. Over treatment is a real thing and it's easy to end up with a lifeless room.

That said I agree that treatment first rather than generic EQ, however in the sub base territory in rooms as small as ours.. A quick parametric filter really is extremely effective and is very cost effective.
post #1331 of 1603
Quote:
Originally Posted by zamboniman View Post

Using the absorption approach ... adding enough to make a worthwhile difference at 50Hz you end up absorbing way too much elsewhere. Over treatment is a real thing and it's easy to end up with a lifeless room.

That said I agree that treatment first rather than generic EQ, however in the sub base territory in rooms as small as ours.. A quick parametric filter really is extremely effective and is very cost effective.


Z,

Your making the assumption that we're talking all broadband absorption. There are bass trapping solutions which do not over attenuate the higher frequencies and should be applied as needed.

However most rooms will never come close to over abosorbed unless you get really carried away trying to tame lower frequencies with broadband absorption. Broadband absorption is however generally effective for most rooms with mild to moderate application. Cuz's room is far from over treated judging by his graphs.

I'm not sure if by your post you mean applying PEQ to correct FR or Decay/Ringing. They are two different problems. Yes PEQ is absolutely effective for flattening FR but it cannot correct Decay/Ringing without negatively affecting FR.
post #1332 of 1603
All im saying is if you try a simple filter on that peak and it won't take much you'll clean up quite a bit. It'll improve what you hear the response graph and the waterfall since less energy is being added to the room.

Just taking the simple approach here. In a matter of moments you can get quite far improving and you didn't spend any time or money building anything. Not sure the SMS gets you focused enough as I haven't worked with it. Bottom line there are lots ways to skin a problem. Just offering some advise that is simple and very effective.
post #1333 of 1603
Thread Starter 
Hey Guys,
Thanks for the interest and especially for the suggestions. From your discussion/debate; I now have some new things to think about, and try. One thing is for sure; my REW skills will need to be improved upon to be worthy of your inputs I'll drag the laptop, (Mic and Tascam units) back out and play some more, while trying out your suggestions.

As for more treatments;
As mentioned earlier the front of my room is pretty well bass-trapped (x3). The back of my room is lacking, and is not setup very well to accommodate additional trapping, I'll be posting some photos soon to show the limitations in the back of the room .

Thanks Again for your inputs!!
post #1334 of 1603
Thread Starter 
So here are the photos showing the rear of my room, and why bass trapping will be difficult. Off to the right side of the photo (left side when seated) is the large open space (our billiards room).

As you can see between the EQ cabinet on the right and the doors on the left, there is not much room to install bass trapping. Up above my back surround speakers are in the way.

The only place that might accommodate some bass trapping is on the left side between the entry door and the closet door. The corner walls (where the light switches are) measure 12.5" x 17.5", A corner trap here would have a face width of 21", not optimum but might be worth the trouble?

I have about a 1/2 roll of linacoustic that I might place in this corner as a test, for my next go-round with REW
post #1335 of 1603
Quote:
Originally Posted by cuzed2 View Post

So here are the photos showing the rear of my room, and why bass trapping will be difficult. Off to the right side of the photo (left side when seated) is the large open space (our billiards room).

As you can see between the EQ cabinet on the right and the doors on the left, there is not much room to install bass trapping. Up above my back surround speakers are in the way.

The only place that might accommodate some bass trapping is on the left side between the entry door and the closet door. The corner walls (where the light switches are) measure 12.5" x 17.5", A corner trap here would have a face width of 21", not optimum but might be worth the trouble?

I have about a 1/2 roll of linacoustic that I might place in this corner as a test, for my next go-round with REW

Cuz,

It looks like you have quite a bit of decor in that space and it looks very good. Like you mentioned any further substantial treatments will probably take away from the appearance......

Looks like a broadband absorber on back wall? What material/ thickness? Is there an air gap behind? You could add some deep bass traps to the back wall. Google ethan winer bass trap DIY. Deep bass trap panels are covered by 1/4" plywood with rigid fiberglass inside sealed to the wall. They could be used back wall or anywhere you have open wall space.

21" corner traps are certainly worthwile if you can make it work.

Also where the back wall meets ceiling corner traps would work, if you can fit into decor.

I your high frequencies get too damped in the process cover some traps outside face with kraft paper and theyll function more like mid/low traps reflecting most the high stuff.

Performance vs appearance is where it gets tricky.
post #1336 of 1603
Thread Starter 
Nick,

Definitely at a point of appearance -vs- performance tradeoffs. I want to start-out by testing with the linacoustic just to see how much potential improvement there might be.

As for the backwall; that was an early effort that involved some leftover materials. It is 2" thick OC 703, spaced only about a 1/2" off the wall.

Something else; I had been toying with was to strip the drywall from this back wall, fill between the studs with mineral wool, cover it with a 1" layer of linacoustic, than cover that with GOM (using a chair rail - to cover the GOM seam). However; being worried about fire-codes, I chickened out.

As for the backwall meeting the ceiling; I would have to move my recessed back surrounds, they are in the ceiling about 6" in front of the wall (didn't show up on the photo)
post #1337 of 1603
Quote:
Originally Posted by cuzed2 View Post

Nick,

Definitely at a point of appearance -vs- performance tradeoffs. I want to start-out by testing with the linacoustic just to see how much potential improvement there might be.

As for the backwall; that was an early effort that involved some leftover materials. It is 2" thick OC 703, spaced only about a 1/2" off the wall.

Something else; I had been toying with was to strip the drywall from this back wall, fill between the studs with mineral wool, cover it with a 1" layer of linacoustic, than cover that with GOM (using a chair rail - to cover the GOM seam). However; being worried about fire-codes, I chickened out.

As for the backwall meeting the ceiling; I would have to move my recessed back surrounds, they are in the ceiling about 6" in front of the wall (didn't show up on the photo)

Are all your other treatments like that? 2" with 1/2" gap? If so theyre doing virtually nothing below like 500hz. The air gap on the back is almost as important as material thickness. Double up for 4" thick and 2" air gap in back and you will easily double their performance from 500 down.

Maximize what you already have before adding more stuff to that beautiful room.....
post #1338 of 1603
Thread Starter 
The other treatments are as follows:

The bass traps up front are made from stacked 4" mineral wool.
- LR floor to ceiling are 17 x24 superchunks
- overhead soffit is filled with stacked mineral wool (2 layers = 8" deep), width of room & extends from screen about 42" into the room,
The front wall and the flanking sidewalls have 1" linacoustic

The first reflection points from my mains miss my 1st row seating positions, so no treatments for sidewall reflection. My center channel is in the overhead soffitt angled down to the front row. Placed a 1" OC703 panel on the ceiling at the FRP for the center channel.

I'm thinking it would be easy (and I have the room) to build a back wall panel as per the following: Double up for 4" thick and 2" air gap in back and you will easily double their performance from 500 down.
post #1339 of 1603
Thread Starter 
OK; last night I returned to the basement to see if I could do any better with REW, after re-reading the tutorial again (and with tips from the gentlemen above). My first task was to perform a full range measurement to see how it would compare with my initial efforts. First Up; is the before graph, from June (and although it does not include the Sub signal it does show my problem areas). You can see in this graph the early tinkering to adjust the position of my mains:



Last nights graph is full spectrum, and although the actual reference db level is not an exact match, this does suggest I have made some progress? The biggest factors were: 1) repositioning the mains, and 2)Using the Velodyne to "cut/boost/tweak" the crossover area, in order to minimize the dip ~100Hz. Side note: I am liking my new "low-freqency "house curve"



I then wanted to try some before and after tests to see if it is worth my time to try and squeeze any additional bass trap into the back corner of the room. Not sure if checking via a waterfall is the best method to check, but I gave it a try. First graph is with no added test bass trap material in the back:

I then rolled a 1/2 roll of linacoustic in to the back corner by the doors and re-ran the graph:

Any difference seems to be very slight (perhaps reducing ringing in the 120Hz area?) All opinions and suggestions are welcome!
post #1340 of 1603
Without reading all the history.... regarding your xover integration between the mains and sub. Have you adjusted the sub distance setting in your AVR in increments and run the REW measurement? What you'll find is you can't go by a measured distance for best sub to main integration and that Audessy won't get it right either (It makes a calculation but doesn't go back and check it's work in the real world). I'd start with 1 ft increments.. This is a great exercise regardless giving you a picture of what's actually happening between the 2. You may find that you can eliminate the dip entirely without any EQ boost and that the final sub distance setting may be far different than what intuition would expect.

Probably goes without saying .. save all your settings... The sub distance / integration setting is one of the 1st things you want to achieve so that needs to happen prior to any EQ being applied etc.. The easiest way is to run the sweep on the center via driving the L and R input at the same time and using PLII AVR setting. Getting the center to sub is the big one but if you really want to get fancy you can try to find the middle ground with the L and R as well. Of course this is all to some single mic location.

Ultimately, what you are going to stumble into is how good (or lack thereof) a system like Audessy really does compared to having your own measurment and EQ system. While adequate for 90% of users that go plug and play.... once you open this kimono it's all over.. Now that you are measuring the room it ends up being like the red pill blue pill analogy.. Did you really want to take it

By the way...... nice room response so far.. If I'm to believe that graph it's showing +/- 5dB for the response window.. Almost too good.

Happy listening
post #1341 of 1603
Thread Starter 
Z,

Thanks for the suggestions (and the comment on my overall response, seems to be real, unless I'm making some really dumb errors with REW).

As for your suggestion:
I have been reading about others (on another thread) that are tinkering with the sub distance in order to optimize their crossover result. This should be very easy for me to do by making 1' adjustments in the receiver speaker settings, and then watching the response on the Velodyne monitor. I will try the center channel method you have described, I will just unhook all of my preamp connections between my AVR/AMP, EXCEPT for the center channel, and then use the PLII AVR setting.
post #1342 of 1603
Quote:
Originally Posted by cuzed2 View Post

Z,

Thanks for the suggestions (and the comment on my overall response, seems to be real, unless I'm making some really dumb errors with REW).

As for your suggestion:
I have been reading about others (on another thread) that are tinkering with the sub distance in order to optimize their crossover result. This should be very easy for me to do by making 1' adjustments in the receiver speaker settings, and then watching the response on the Velodyne monitor. I will try the center channel method you have described, I will just unhook all of my preamp connections between my AVR/AMP, EXCEPT for the center channel, and then use the PLII AVR setting.

If you drive the L & R inputs equally only the center will produce sound in PLII. You shouldn't have to unplug anything. Typically use a Y cable to drive the L and R inputs from REW.
post #1343 of 1603
Thread Starter 
Z,
Good advice - THANKS!
post #1344 of 1603
So with all of this scientific bantering back and forth the real question is, Does it sound any better? If it does is there still room for improvement? If not then what in the sam hill are you waiting for, get back to work you lazy bum!

Regards,

RTROSE
post #1345 of 1603
Quote:
Originally Posted by RTROSE View Post

So with all of this scientific bantering back and forth the real question is, Does it sound any better? If it does is there still room for improvement? If not then what in the sam hill are you waiting for, get back to work you lazy bum!

Regards,

RTROSE

If your not gonna work on something at least cruise around others threads and prod them along.....
post #1346 of 1603
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by RTROSE View Post

So with all of this scientific bantering back and forth the real question is, Does it sound any better? If it does is there still room for improvement? If not then what in the sam hill are you waiting for, get back to work you lazy bum!

Regards,

RTROSE

RT,
First; I was skeptical about reading other posts where; after "EQ"ing and running Audyssey others will describe their bass as being less "muddy"..??

1) Well I can now say without hesitation, that I too have noticed a clear difference. The bass that I am now hearing is cleaner, I would say it seems to be better defined, with more "punch".

2) And; although the improvement is less dramatic (or could be my imagination) seems to be some minor improvement in that dialogue now seems clearer also??

Summary of what tweaks seems to have produced the most audible improvements to my ears:
a) The Velodyne tinkering - without a doubt
b) A close second would be repositioning the mains.
c) and third - Not yet ready to make any claims that this early version of Audyssey (Multi-EQ) has contributed much. Although I need to be fair, and hold up on passing judgement until I tinker around and run it a few more times.
post #1347 of 1603
Thread Starter 
And one additional thought,from what I have learned so far. The following would fit into the "If I could start over again" column:

"I wish I would have put a little more thought into the layout of the rear of my HT room - In other words I wish I would have designed in provision to more easily allow bass trapping for the back corners" (placement of rear doors, rear surrounds are too close to the back wall/ceiling intersection, etc...)
post #1348 of 1603
Hi Craig,

Thanks for the heads up to check out your drapes (if you weren't over in the media/games room section I'd stop in more often ). This is the kind of thing I'm thinking about in my theater but probably with a matching valance as well. What type of fabric did you use and is it single thickness or backed with a lining? Did you or your wife make it?

I'm enjoying catching up on your EQ journey -- I remember being one of the most tedious parts of my build.

Cheers.
post #1349 of 1603
Since you brought up E.W. I thought I'd share these if you haven't already seen them. Pay close attention to the deep bass traps which are covered by 1/4" ply so they just work on the bass more like a resonator than a absorber.......

Enjoy!

http://www.ethanwiner.com/BTPlans.gif
post #1350 of 1603
Thread Starter 
Nick,

Funny that you should mention Ethan's "how-to" website. Over the 3-day weekend I spent more time reading up on these plans. The result is as follows:

My original back wall treatment consisted of a 30x60" panel of framed 2" OC703 wrapped in GOM.

I have since pulled this down and as you can see, am in the process of modifying it.

Using materials I have on hand I am re-framing it into a 5 1/2" deep bass trap. The front side now becomes the back side with a 1.5" air gap from the wall.


Flipping it over gives you what will become the new front side. I am adding 1" of additional OC703


Added some blocking to make sure I maintain a .75" air gap between the front .25" plywood face and the OC703.


I then added a .25" plywood skin to the front side (glued brad-nailed and trimmed, but not yet yet shown). Tonight will find me using a router to "roundover" the left and right vertical edges. I will then paint the front face black, then will stretch some new Burgundy GOM across the front. The final step will be to cap the top and bottom edges with some stained oak trim, and remount.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
AVS › AVS Forum › Home Entertainment & Theater Builder › General Home Theater & Media/Game Rooms › CuznEddy Cinema Project Begins