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The Arthouse" (fomerly "The Grindhouse") - Planning and Construction Thread - Page 3

post #61 of 289
That stain really does go well with the wall color.
post #62 of 289
Thread Starter 
MERRY CHRISTMAS EVERYONE!

Big differences in the update today. What a huge difference some lighting and finishing can make!

I like the look af the natural birch wood against the walls so much that I have decided to just wax the wood as-is and forego the cherry wood look. I think it looks more modern. I will switch the fabric frames to black to keep the look.

I'm hoping in a month or so I will be watching my first flicks! Next step is finishing the wood, installing the sconces and starting the fabric frames.













post #63 of 289
Looking real good!

I have about the same size theater as yours, and saw in a few pics HVAC into the soffits....

I have to punch into my main floor supply to my theater and was wondering what ductwork you are using...can you get it at a local home depot?

Also would like 2 rows of seats for a 100" wide 16:9 screen, but am afraid the front row would be too close (mine would be about 9 feet from the screen) if I used a 6 foot riser. Could I get away with a shorter riser?

Good luck on your build!
post #64 of 289
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mngopher View Post

Looking real good!

I have about the same size theater as yours, and saw in a few pics HVAC into the soffits....

I have to punch into my main floor supply to my theater and was wondering what ductwork you are using...can you get it at a local home depot?

Also would like 2 rows of seats for a 100" wide 16:9 screen, but am afraid the front row would be too close (mine would be about 9 feet from the screen) if I used a 6 foot riser. Could I get away with a shorter riser?

Good luck on your build!

Thanks!

If you look on my riser, you will see that I tapped into the HVAC that was going into the adjacent room and made a floor vent in the riser as well. The main reason I decided to do this is because my "rigged" soffit vent just was not giving off much air at all. I used flex duct into a 4" diffuser and if you have the ability to tap into your floor duct and keep it a good size (4 x10ish) and on the floor then do it. I have good ventilation now with both but when I chose to do only the soffit vent I knew there was no way it would be able to heat/cool the room on its own once I had it going on its own.

As far as the screen size, trust me when i say you will have no problem. I had the same concerns until I projected my first images on the bare wall. I went with a custom 108" carada (originally panned ona 100 or 102) and as long as you are going 1080p you will not be disappointed. That being said, screen size is relative so be sure to test it out yourself.

Do not shorten your riser. At the end of the day you want people to be able to recline properly and I posed this question earlier. Everyone told me to be sure I keep a 6' depth which I did. Once i saw the projector tests, I was fine anyway

Hope this helps.
post #65 of 289
Really enjoying your build thread. Looks great so far.

This answers my question about distance from the screen as well. I am doing roughly the same as you, with my room being about 14.5 ft deep. Glad to know that 8.5 feet or so is still sufficient. I was really concerned.

Have a Merry Christmas!
post #66 of 289
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rbuck View Post

Really enjoying your build thread. Looks great so far.

This answers my question about distance from the screen as well. I am doing roughly the same as you, with my room being about 14.5 ft deep. Glad to know that 8.5 feet or so is still sufficient. I was really concerned.

Have a Merry Christmas!

Just make the screen one of the last things you buy. You can set up your projector and play around with screen sizes and distances to see what you prefer. Even if its on a taped sheetrock wall with no sound.
post #67 of 289
Have learned a lot from your build-out. Am in the midst of finishing my basement and planning to install my first projector once I get it finished. Like you, I am hoping to house the projector in the rear soffit.

Recently purchased a Panny PT-AX200U and am unsure how to size the opening in the soffit? Manual says to leave 4" in the rear which is easily done but the spacing on the sides is alluding me. That's the last bit of framing I need to complete but want to ensure I frame the opening the correct size.

Any thoughts? How did you determine the size of your soffit opening?

Thanks!
post #68 of 289
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jksfam View Post

Have learned a lot from your build-out. Am in the midst of finishing my basement and planning to install my first projector once I get it finished. Like you, I am hoping to house the projector in the rear soffit.

Recently purchased a Panny PT-AX200U and am unsure how to size the opening in the soffit? Manual says to leave 4" in the rear which is easily done but the spacing on the sides is alluding me. That's the last bit of framing I need to complete but want to ensure I frame the opening the correct size.

Any thoughts? How did you determine the size of your soffit opening?

Thanks!

Thanks so much!

When it was time for me to frame out the soffit for the projector, it was a wierd time because there were three 1080p's that were being announced but not yet released. I basically used the largest of the three measurements to be safe, then gave myself about 4-6" of play on both sides this way no matter which one I chose, I would be okay. Since my soffit is not closed under the projector, I was sure there would be sufficent ventilation.

I wound up going with the AE-2000U and while it was the bigger of the three, my "test hang" showed it to be fine as far as ventilation goes. The AX-200U is 15.5" wide, so if it were me, I would plan for about 24" width. This should give you good ventilation all around without looking like it wasn't designed to fit the projector.

Hope this helps and thanks for your comments!
post #69 of 289
Thanks Rob for the very helpful response. You mention that you aren't closing off your soffit. Let's say I were to plan to close off the soffit on the bottom and shelf mount the AX-200 as opposed to hanging it. Do you see any ventilation issues? Assuming I go with the 24" width you recommend, I'd have the following clearances around the projector:

Sides (air intake port): 4-5"
Back (air intake port): 10-11"
Top: 5"
Front (primary exhaust port): open to room

I've got 4 young kids so the desire is to protect the projector a bit by closing off the bottom of the soffit but definitely don't want to do something that will cause it to over heat. Anyway, sounds like you've done this before and I haven't so I appreciate you letting me pick your brain.
post #70 of 289
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jksfam View Post

Thanks Rob for the very helpful response. You mention that you aren't closing off your soffit. Let's say I were to plan to close off the soffit on the bottom and shelf mount the AX-200 as opposed to hanging it. Do you see any ventilation issues? Assuming I go with the 24" width you recommend, I'd have the following clearances around the projector:

Sides (air intake port): 4-5"
Back (air intake port): 10-11"
Top: 5"
Front (primary exhaust port): open to room

I've got 4 young kids so the desire is to protect the projector a bit by closing off the bottom of the soffit but definitely don't want to do something that will cause it to over heat. Anyway, sounds like you've done this before and I haven't so I appreciate you letting me pick your brain.

Honestly I haven't done this before (this is my first build) but you would be shocked at the wealth of information and helpful people here on AVS. If you are going to shelf it and still close it in on the sides, my advice is to ask this question in the projectors forum. You will get a much more knowledgeable answer to your question there as there are many people that have built enclosures, hush boxes and many other ways to disguise and mount the projector. I have only researched my specific situation.

I'm sure there is a way you can do what you need, even if you add a small exhaust vent or something.

Good luck!
post #71 of 289
Thread Starter 
Just ordered the carpet for the floor, riser and stage. Stage will be plain black, the rest of the room will be the Hanover Rockport carpet. It was between that and the maslund quadrate.




Each square is about 4-5".
post #72 of 289
I love the carpet choice!
post #73 of 289
Rob,
Was 6' the correct "minimum" depth for your riser? Could you have recovered a few more inches?
post #74 of 289
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rbuck View Post

Rob,
Was 6' the correct "minimum" depth for your riser? Could you have recovered a few more inches?

That was pretty much the minimum. After talking with Roman from Ultimate, he convinced me to stay with 6' for my particular chair.
post #75 of 289
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ryansprance View Post

I love the carpet choice!

Thanks!
post #76 of 289
Thread Starter 
Okay I put a flat poly on the wood panels which was great because the wood stayed looking almost exactly as it did before and has virtually no glare at all.

That enabled me to put the sconces up and I am officially done with my electrical work with the exception of the GrafikEye panel and running the rope light in the soffit.











Now its on to the fabric frames. I started building them after I was done and hope to have all the fabric panels up by New Years.

Happy New Year everyone!
post #77 of 289
Looks Great, How much longer before your done? Take your time think, give yourself plenty of time. Always takes longer don't know why just does. Good luck coming along great.
post #78 of 289
Looking real sharp!
post #79 of 289
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Silver-Fox View Post

Looks Great, How much longer before your done? Take your time think, give yourself plenty of time. Always takes longer don't know why just does. Good luck coming along great.

Thanks! I'm hoping to be done by the end of January. The one thing you cant see in the room that has to be done is to put in all the shelves and brackets on the oposite side of the cabinet opening and frame out the wall / sheetrock to make it an enclosed cabniet on the other side. Since the carpet is coming soon I am focusing only on the main room so I can be close to done by the time they are installing with the exception of the screen and equipment.
post #80 of 289
Thread Starter 
Time for the fabric panels! I built the frames for the OC703 out of 1x1's.



I had some thin plywood cut to size for the backing.



Loving my new brad nailer. I used 3/4" brads to nail the back to the frame.



Perfect fit..

post #81 of 289
Sconces look great!
post #82 of 289
Thread Starter 
I used the same "panelclip" cleats that I used to hang the wood panels.



The steel cleat hangs right in place aith very little space behind...



I used a super high-tech device to ensure all panels are level. Its called a cheap ass furring strip with pencil marks





And then before wasting time wrapping the panels with fabric on a bad panel, i hung alll incomplete panels in place. One is badly warped and will need to be done again. I still have to do the small lower panels and the one over the eqipment hole, but its a start. Fabric will be black GOM.







post #83 of 289
Thread Starter 
I was pretty exhausted today after having a great New Year's Eve but I took some time to work on the tricky "faux" fabric panel that will hang right over the equipment opening. This panel will be wrapped in the same black GOM to match but is for looks only to keep with the rest of the pattern around the room. You obviously wont see all the little framing on the inside, just a rectangle with a rectangle cut-out.

It's always nice to get one of these "how am I going to do that?" items done!



post #84 of 289
Rob, your room is looking great. I am amazed at the quick progress that you have been making!

Is that panel simply going to be a border around the equipment, or are you planning on covering the equipment and putting that panel on a hinge or something?

cheers,
aaron
post #85 of 289
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaron_hinni View Post

Rob, your room is looking great. I am amazed at the quick progress that you have been making!

Is that panel simply going to be a border around the equipment, or are you planning on covering the equipment and putting that panel on a hinge or something?

cheers,
aaron


Thanks Aaron. It seems like only a few months ago you were answering some of my stupid soffit framing questions.

That panel will be nothing more than a border around the equipment. Although if I ever decide I want glass over the equipment (not my first preference) you just gave me the solution!
post #86 of 289
Quote:
Originally Posted by rsprance View Post

That panel will be nothing more than a border around the equipment. Although if I ever decide I want glass over the equipment (not my first preference) you just gave me the solution!

I wouldn't want glass either, but if you wanted your equipment hidden, a GOM panel on hinges might be pretty cool. The route you are going should look awesome as well. There is something to be said for being able to look over your shoulder to double check some of the equipment settings when getting a movie going.
post #87 of 289
Great work Rob, Happy new year.
post #88 of 289
Thread Starter 
Hey everyone. Finally got all the fabric frames cut and placed to complete the design pattern (whew). Carpet is most likely coming next week so I am going to hold off on wrapping the frames right now and get all the more construction oriented stuff done by next Saturday. Tomorrow I will be closing up the soffit so I stuffed it up with some insulation.


Finally! The pattern is done.


Back row of seats go right under these frames. I plan on making OC703 wrapped shutters to open the window if I ever want some air or sun in the room.


Math classes finally pay off 20 years later.


Stuffed and ready. Need to put some OC703 on the "entry" points from the inside of the columns.




Put some Birch wood inside the equipment opening. Need to urethane to match

More updates tomorrow night. Hopefully a LOT of them!
post #89 of 289
Hi -
Your theater looks great! Inspiring because I have a similar sized room I thought might be too small but I see you can do big things in there!

Two questions:
- Are the wood panels just for aesthetics? They look beautiful, but I was wondering if they serve some other purpose (like to brighten the audio) or if they could be skipped in favor of fabric panels all the way around.
- What are you doing for speakers in the back of the room? Are you doing in-walls? I'm undecided between doing two rows of seats with inwalls or one row with the recommended space between speaker and wall and then speaker and seat which takes up several feet total.

Amazing job!!
post #90 of 289
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmcent1 View Post

Hi -
Your theater looks great! Inspiring because I have a similar sized room I thought might be too small but I see you can do big things in there!

Two questions:
- Are the wood panels just for aesthetics? They look beautiful, but I was wondering if they serve some other purpose (like to brighten the audio) or if they could be skipped in favor of fabric panels all the way around.
- What are you doing for speakers in the back of the room? Are you doing in-walls? I'm undecided between doing two rows of seats with inwalls or one row with the recommended space between speaker and wall and then speaker and seat which takes up several feet total.

Amazing job!!

Thank you!

The wood panels are just for aesthetics. They can be skipped in favor of whatever you like. To me, it is about designing a room that you like. I may have to give some additional treatment if anything if the room sound is out of hand (which i highly doubt), but the perimeter and first reflection points are covered with 703 panels. It's a good idea to check the acoutics thread and let them take a look at your design. At the end of the day, I think your room should be a design that you love and a space you will be happy with. It's easy to go overboard with acoustic treatments and make the room look ridiculous with traps hanging everywhere just like it is to ignore them completely and have the room sound like crap. Find the ground you are happy with and roll with it.

The speakers in the back are Axiom QS4's and they will hang just below the soffit. I was back and forth about going 5.1 or 7.1 and the general consensus here was that I should still go 7.1 even though the rears will be above the 2nd row listeners head. I am hanging the speaker brackets today.
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