Official Mitsubishi WD XX833 Owners Thread - Page 65

Both tv's upscale everything to 1080p. What you were seeing in the display is the signal the tv is receiving. It is just a question of which does it best. If the features of the 833 don't matter then the 734 would probably be best for you.

Newbie question here: What are the key differences between the 734 and 833? I had a 734 delivered with a cracked screen and now can buy either the 833 or another 734. What are the main benefits of the 833 over the 734?

Any comments appreciated!
Thanks

Man, you can't be that much of an idiot.

People try and help you and you come back with nonsense posts every time.

Other members point out to you that your posts aren't clear. That they're hard to read and you don't care. You could care less about other peoples experiences on the board. You could care less about anybody but yourself.

Look at the post you just wrote. Do you think anyone else would know what the heck you're talking about? Do you? Do you care?

If you're going to continue to post BS that's confusing to everyone on the board, why don't you just stop posting or get some help.

barney,

So both the 883 and 7288 have better upscaling and better de-interlacing for HD material than the Reon chip in the NR905? (Can anyone else confirm that?) I've been considering getting either the 875 or 905, but since i'm also getting an 833 (if the laser DLP is not announced a CES), I may consider the Denon 3808ci.

And...thanks again. Maybe I should have asked a question that pissed people off. That seems to get more responses.

Are we correcting all grammar, spelling and punctuation errors now?

FYI, the word "phrase" has an "h" in it and you're missing a comma after your first quotation.

If you're going to correct someone, you should try and make sure yours is right.

I have been lurking around the AVS site for a while now as I was thinking about replacing my older Sony KP61HS10. This last set has been great and I was leaning towards replacing it with another Sony as I was so satisfied.

For a few weeks I read through most all of the review threads and it seemed the Sony 60" LCOS set was highly praised. My buddy had recently bought a Samsung 61" so I was also looking at that set. I went to BB, CC, FRY's multiple times and watched the sets. Honestly, I was not blown away that much. That was until I saw a blu-ray playing on a Philips 50" LCD. I was floored, the picture popped off the screen and the detail was nothing short of amazing. At this point I was dissapointed as I was sure I would never get that kind of 'pop' from a 61 or 65" TV, expecially a DLP set.

So I set my sights a bit lower and looked harder at the Sony and Samsung. I'm sure it was a setup issue, but of the 3-4 Sony 60" set's, none impressed me. The Samsung seemed to have deeper colors and better blacks.

So one day I'm at BB and a Mitsubishi rep is there. He sees me eyeballing the Samsung and asks if I had looked at the Mit's. I told him no, I'd never owner a Mit's, nor did I know anyone who did. I always seemed to consider them lower end, based upon absolutely nothing. So the rep shows me a blu-ray disc on the 65833, and I'm stunned. Same level of pop and detail as I had seen before. Now I'm really excited, but cautiously I asked to see the same disc on the Samsung. Well, it was also sweet, but the reds were truer, the contrast was better, and the detail was better on the Mit's to my eyes. The 120 hz seemed to make the picture clearer on a football game. I liked that it supported 24 frame, 1.3 HDMI, split screen, and had 10 bit color support.

So I pulled the trigger on a 65833, and a Panasonic BD30 as well as a new stand and some cables (that I will be returning due to feeling raped).

After setting it up we watched some 1080i HD football that was simply amazing off cable. Then we put in ratatouille blu-ray. Oh my god, the picture was stunning, to me it was unbelievably clear, I could count the hair on the rats, and the colors were literally popping off the screen. I needd to research to see which BR disc's are the best.

Anyway, my set makes no noise other than the color wheel which you have to strain to hear in an absolutely quiet room. I can hear my dog breathe louder.

Anyway, very happy new owner here.

Yes, I know what you're referring to because you're quoting me. And don't say you prefer to use quote marks. You didn't know the quote feature was there and you're too stubborn to just admit it and start using it.

The point which you just can't seem to comprehend, is that NOBODY else would know what they hell you're talking about unless they looked at your little quotation and then went back and looked at every previous post until they found it.

That's why you're an idiot. You can't even understand that just because you know who you're quoting and the person your quoting knows, NOBODY else would. It makes it that much harder for anyone else to follow along.


It's about common courtesy to the others reading the board.


There's several posts by you in this forum, where you quoted someone and FORGOT to use the quote marks. So, it looks like you're saying something and then either agreeing or disagreeing with yourself. Like this one:


Where's the quote there? It looks like you're arguing with yourself doesn't it?

This started out as a simple SUGGESTION to please use the quote tag. That's what it's there for. It's there to make the board easier to read. Instead of just saying "OK", you have to continue to be a jerk about it.

Again, I never once said you needed to watch anything the way I do. Are you really that dense? Can you not read English?

I made one suggestion that it's hard to understand your posts when you quote someone simply by copying and pasting their remarks, usually without quote marks or any connection to what you're quoting.

For some reason, you have to take that as a personal affront and even though you must be able to see the benefit, you refuse to do it thereby making all of your posts harder to understand for everyone on the board.

No, it's not a rule. Some things should just be common sense.

How about you guys that feel the need to bicker on a public forum take it to PM's and keep it amongst yourselves. This thread is to good to have you guys messing it up.

833 has picture in picture for two hd sources as long as they are not both hdmi. Lots of times I will watch two football games at a time. The pip is a must for me. It has the 120 hz refresh which to me does nothing.

All of you folks who have gotten drawn into this little pissing contest of mores, can we please let it die and keep this thread on xx833 Mitsubishi TVs?

I'm getting my 73833 tomorrow, and I'm really excited...

I bought a 73W833 two weeks ago. I adjusted the settings according to the recommendations on this forum and I'm quite happy with the picture from a color and black/white level perspective.

Xbox 360 games look great via component (the cheapy microsoft cable), my HD satellite via HDMI looks ok (sometimes a bit pixelly), but I'm having issues with my HD-DVD picture quality(Xbox 360 add on via component).

I've watched a few discs on it, most recenly Oceans 13 and The Bourne Ultimatum.

O13 seemed to be very noisy and grainy, to the point of severe color distortion on people's faces in some of the "redder" scenes.

Other HD-DVD's have seemed noisy in the dark black areas of the picture.

The Bourne Ultimatum didn't have this problem, but I was getting pretty bad ghosting during fast motion . . . seeing the outline of someone lagging behind as they were running, for example. I tried with 120Hz on and off and didn't see much difference.

I'm thinking it's either A.)the Xbox HDDVD drive, B.)The TV's handling of film content, or C.)some setting that I'm missing or have wrong.

Does anyone else have these issues? Any suggestions for some settings to try?

BTW, I had "the noise" for one day (the second day of ownership) and I haven't heard it since. If I can get these HD-DVD issues resolved, I'll be very pleased with this set!

My previous (piece of crap) Toshiba 65" HDTV had a 'Theater Wide' mode
that stretched the picture while keeping the aspect ratio constant, for
filling the screen with 4:3 material. Mitsu calls this 'Expand'.

The Toshiba 'Full' mode compressed the picture vertically, for anamorphic
DVDs. Mitsu calls this mode 'Standard'.

-- Ron

No TV displays 24fps as the flicker would be unbearable. Movie
projectors display 24fps by projecting each frame twice, for an
effective frame rate of 48fps.

XX833 sets accept 24fps and (when 120Hz is enabled), display
each frame 5 times. This should make for a better picture than
sets that convert to 60Hz, though the difference is visually
quite minute.

-- Ron

Really? and your source for this is,,, Simplex?

Thanks for the reply. I appreciate it.

A tad off topic but wanted to share a nice inexpensive lighting project you can easily place behind your 833 (or any TV for that matter).

LED Backlighting - http://www.cyron.com/ Click on Home Theatre (turn your speakers down).

Check this link for the HT1502
http://cyron.com/Merchant2/merchant....tegory_Code=HT

My local Costco has a version like the HT1502 but it comes with six light bars for $49.99 (versus the 1502s "2" for twice as much money) Even though there are multiple colors to choose from, I set mine on constant blue....it goes so well with the diamond blue lights.

trippn

I thought this was really interesting, too. See the link below:

http://www.dvdfile.com/news/special_...2_pulldown.htm

What does Costco call their version (to help find it please)

I finally had some time to play around, and I fixed my own problem last night by turning OFF the video noise reduction. The Ghosting appears to be a side effect of the NR circuitry. I used the scene in Batman Begins where Bruce first meets Rhys at his temple . . . the darkness and fast action fighting scenes highlighted the issue. I didn't notice much if any extra niose or graininess by making this change, at least on that DVD.

I thought so. In the Tele-Cine transfer, film can be converted. I understood film "shows" at 24fps and I understand that there is a flywheel in the projector that blocks the light source between each frame essentially putting you in darkness for half the showing. Thus the transport is traveling at 48fps but you only see 24fps because you're in darkness the other 24. Now to up the confusion, new digital projectors and IMAX can, I believe, show at 60fps outdoing everything else. I'm soooo confused.

The manufacturer model number is HT1506.

Costco Item Number 202476 "Media Light"

I'm new to this thread and am looking at buying a 73833. I'm really interested in the split screen feature.

Has anyone mentioned whether it's possible to split the screen w/ two HDMI sources??

I believe that the manual says this is not possible. I'm guessing though that I can still get the 2nd source in HD, just not w/ the HDMI inputs.

Thanks.

It was posted earlier in this thread that you cannot PIP w/2 HDMI inputs.

Thanks. I did a search through this thread and found all the answers.

But, what effect does not being able to split 1080p have? What signals are 1080p (I don't currently have any HD).

I don't think it's the 1080p as much as connecting two HDMI's to the TV. The only signals that are 1080p are Blu-Ray movies or HD-DVD movies (and only newer HDDVDs are coming out in 1080p). HD TV is only 1080i at best.

Rats - no luck on-line trying to find it. I found the 2 and 6 pack at Amazon (same part numbers). 2 pack @$30