Official Mitsubishi WD XX833 Owners Thread - Page 11

Originally Posted by tlbowerts

Yes, the 833 has PIP, why worry about the owner's guide now ,when you will get one with the tv? it's not hard to setup!

Originally Posted by tlbowerts

Yes i have bluray, I have already done this, the 1st 5 days i had both set's(734,833) i had them side-by-side and with a ps3 hook up to both( no don't have two, used my siters)and played 6 different movies on both at same time,and for the most part , i/we saw very little different( most times none), not only me but friends and family, since then i'd watch 5 movies on 833 with and without the 120Hz on, and just don't see much differents, have done samething with HD and SD channels, and no big different, what this tells me is the 734 is a very good set for the money, as my opinion is the 833 is the best set out right now ,and the 734 holds it's own as for as PQ with the 833.
Yes, set to 24Hz of course!! Hope this helps you some.

Originally Posted by akrias

ok.... not really sure what I'm doing here, but this looks ok to me.

picture mode : natural
color temp : low
contrast 34
brightness 31
color 31
tint 31
sharpness 0

perfect color and perfect tint all default

deep field imager and sharp edge both off

120 mhz on

thinks look pretty washed out, but way better than out of the box torch settings. any suggestions?


oh, btw, does everyones set have a small red outline to the orange bars in the menu? the bar that moves when you raise or lower settings.

Originally Posted by applebonker

I'm in a similar situation moving from a 52" 720p DLP to a 65" 1080p DLP with the same viewing distance and all other components the same. The issue is the feed. It has nothing to do with your hardware. The multiswitch does a good job of not introducing noise (although there will be some). This noise will not be noticeable over the macroblocking/pixelation from D*. This is a result of the compression they use (it would be nice if they could send us uncompressed feeds, but there is no bandwidth for that at this point in time). Your 5 LNB dish only allows you to pick up other satellites.

I didn't notice the macroblocking anywhere near as much on my 52", but the resolution on that was lower so it does a better job of hiding it. I'm also sitting the same distance away from a larger set now, so it is easier to see for that reason as well. Basically, it seems that the xx833 sets have amazing picture quality. We just need the feeds to catch up.

Originally Posted by TomHuffman

Just finished calibrating the 65833 and I was quite impressed. BTW, some sets look really good out of the box and require minimal tweaking to get it right. This is not one of them.

By default, the color decoder is a horror show, but the PerfectColor control has enough range of adjustment to fix the problems. Also, the color points are significantly off, but the PerfectTint control allows you to substantially improve these as well, though you can't resolve all of the issues.

The gray scale is best at Warm, but to get it right you need a full service menu calibration. After this, it is nearly perfect.

After setting contrast and brightness, the gamma is a nearly perfect 2.2 throughout the entire range.

Anyone who has this set or is considering getting one, I would strongly recommend that you get it calibrated. It is capable of a really great image, you need instruments and training to know how to correctly adjust all of these parameters.

Originally Posted by akrias

I will never understand why, when we pay top dollar for a diamond, we have to pay for a professional calibration in order to get a good picture from the set.

I understand everyone's viewing environment is different; therefore, settings must be adjusted, but to have just completely inaccurate greyscale and color temps is plain laziness on Mit's behalf.

the 831 I had had all of the SM gain numbers adjusted somewhat, on this 833 all three low gain settings were at 1024. Low looks dirty and tinged with yellows. High is so blue it sickens me.

Calibration is a must for owners of this set. In this regard, I am disappointed.

**edit**

Also, Ihave found that Brilliant and even Bright destroy shadow detail. If your output device allows you to select between RGB Full or RGB Limited, Limited is by far the better option. On Full my shadow detail goes to crap as well. So try Limited and Natural to see what has been hiding in the shadows!

Although it may seem as if I am unhappy with this set, I am not. I am just very picky. Overall, I feel this set (even before calibration) has excellent PQ, I only fuss because I know it has much much more to offer. Once I get about 300 hours on the bulb, I will have my 73833 calibrated and then we will see how it stacks up.

Originally Posted by usmcss

One more shot. Feed is D* HR20.

Originally Posted by usmcss

Here are some screen shots attached from ESPN HD.

Originally Posted by Stew4msu

What's that stand?

Originally Posted by Hipnotiq

The reason why, is 2 fold.
1st point: Manufacturers want the biggest pop in the store. Their TV will be next to a multitude of other TVs all trying to vie for a buyers eye. so they have their out of the box settings very bright and saturate the colors.

2nd point: A "calibrated" TV is setup for 6500K. Or that is what the ISF calibrators standards are set to. 6500K is kind of out dated and many people may(or do) prefer a higher color temp. That is why there is several color modes such as brilliant and natural. I think most people would find the TV to be very good at natural or bright modes. Brilliant is really too saturated.

Originally Posted by tlbowerts

only have coaxial out, Why does it have to be optical cable, when both are digital?

Originally Posted by LMS252

A few follow up questions regarding calibration:

1) Are there any recommended settings or adjustments to be made to the unit right out of the box to get calibration moving in the right direction?

2) I know this is completely subjective, but how close can an unskilled amateur get at properly calibrating this unit (using Avia or DVE) versus hiring a professional? I'm sure the professional will do a better job. The question is simply financial - is it worth it for the improvement over doing it yourself. For some I'm sure it's a no-brainer, for others it might be a more difficult decision.

Originally Posted by Hipnotiq

LMS252, if you thrife through all these Mits threads you will find alot of ppl who successfully calibrated their own TVs (at least to their satisfaction).

You will also find a few who were not happy with their results.

Its pretty cheap to give it a try on your own and there is no risk to trying it.

Originally Posted by usedparts

I just purchased the Sony, although the picture has produced a lot of WOW moments for me, the glare on the screen is bugging me to much to keep. Now I have seen the 65833 it the store, it seems to have a better anti-glare screen. My question is will the Mits produce the same kind of WOW picture that the Sony has. Second, as nice as the picture on the Sony is, while watching DTV it can go from a WOW moment scene and right to a scene where everyone looks "pasty" and digitized. I realize this is probably from the source and not the TV but it would be very nice to know if Mits handled DTV any better.

Thanks

Scott