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Official Mitsubishi WD XX833 Owners Thread - Page 102

post #3031 of 3491
Quote:
Originally Posted by Natrix1973 View Post

That sounds like the same issue I am having, thanks for your reply. I have a tech coming out on Thursday to look at it. I will have to show him this post, thanks! I am losing faith in Mits now, I got this set as a replacement for an 625 series DLP. Glad I went with the service plan again. As far as getting a replacement set, are you happy with the 835? I will have to research those to compare features, etc.

I didn't have the flicker problem - but the 'blob' issue. They replaced the light engine three times (the second time the blob issue was gone, but something new took it's place, the third time there was a 'smudge' but no geometry settings were effective) - SO after another call last night the 73833 will be replaced w/the 73835 and they said it'd be no longer than 2 weeks until it's replaced.
post #3032 of 3491
Quote:
Originally Posted by lujan View Post

I don't think you can just ask for the updates. Doesn't Mitsubishi CS/TS have to find something wrong with your set that the update fixes before they'll send it to you?

I had slow volume response with Net command.
post #3033 of 3491
Quote:
Originally Posted by jimwhit View Post

Originally Posted by rrussell
Enter the Service Menu at your own risk.


- Press "menu"
- While on the menu screen press 2 4 5 7 wait 2 seconds then press 0
- You'll see 5 menu selections at the top of the screen
- Arrow down to "MANUAL KEYSTONE GEOMETRY ALIGNMENT" and press the "enter" button
- You will come to a black screen with overscan lines around the perimeter and two vertical lines at the 4:3 bar location
- Seeing this screen, you'll probably want to adjust the perimeter also which is the first part of these instructions. If not, read on through to the end which will get you to the 4:3 bar adjustment.
- There are adjustment points along the perimeter ("+" marks)
- The first point you're at when you arrive to the screen is the upper left corner
- Adjust that point (if needed) by pressing the up/down/left/right arrow keys in the direction you need that point to move to straighten any irregularities there. You won't see any of the lines move at this point, just the "+" pointer.
- You access the "+" points in a clockwise direction from the starting point by pressing "fast forward" (to the right of "play") on the remote to move to the next adjustment point. Adjust the pointer at the next point if needed in the same manner (up,down,left right) then on to the next point.
- "Fast Rewind" will move you backwards, point to point, headed back to the starting point.
- Since you don't see the results of your adjustments onscreen, you'll have to press "enter" which will return you to the Geometry menu screen, then "enter" again to get you back to the adjustment screen. Then you'll see the results. You'll be going back and forth like this quite a few times. NOTE: If you make an adjustment on a point and press "enter", that adjustment won't take. Make sure before you "enter" out to the menu, that you fast forward or rewind to the next point first.

- To adjust the two 4:3 vertical bars, "fast forward" all the way around to the starting point. Once there, you'll be in the 4:3 bar adjustment mode. The next "fast forward" press will make both 4:3 lines move. Just keep pressing "fast forward / rewind" until you get the bars straight as possible. Press "enter" to get back to the menu screen. If you are finished, press "exit".

This was very helpful. Thanks. I did have one question though,

I've gone ahead and aligned the gemoetry lines on all 4 sides including the 4:3 alignment; however, on the top and on the leftside I do not see the white lines (I only see Yellow and Green- and they are both straight), I only see the White lines on the bottom and right side.

Do I need to adjust even more to actually see the White lines on all 4 sides?

Please help. Thanks.

-MC
post #3034 of 3491
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wryker View Post

I didn't have the flicker problem - but the 'blob' issue. They replaced the light engine three times (the second time the blob issue was gone, but something new took it's place, the third time there was a 'smudge' but no geometry settings were effective) - SO after another call last night the 73833 will be replaced w/the 73835 and be they said it'd be no longer than 2 weeks until it's replaced.

it will more than likely be quicker than you this. I got a call from mits following and saying i would get a call from the freight company. next day got call, and it was already here in NC. very quick, like 7-10 days tops. It appears they are swapping many 833s out these days.

say goodbye to firewire, split screen, serial port and some other features. The picture looks the exact same to me though. Remote even says split on it but the stripped it out on the 835.

~ Heres to a trouble free set for you though.
post #3035 of 3491
Anyone living in Texas near College station want a 73833 pm me.
post #3036 of 3491
Best buy service came out today. They said the "Blobs" were normal and each light engine would have them so they won't do anything about the "Blobs" and told me to call they Mitsubishi. I spent $2800 on the TV and $500 on the waranty. What should I do now?
post #3037 of 3491
Call BB customer service and tell them that "blobs" are not normal according to this Mits ASC. Likely needs some cleaning, but on a set this new it would likely be some contamination from the factory.

Is it under Mitsubishi's warranty? If so, they have to do it anyway.
post #3038 of 3491
Sorry to sound stupid but what is this "Mits ASC" is this a service bulentin? It is 11 months old. Thanks
post #3039 of 3491
ASC = Authorized Service Center.

I have been servicing Mitsubishi for years and I have never seen anything to indicate that they would consider a visible defect normal. It may be due to some environmental conditions, but as I said, on a product this new, there was likely some contamination from the factory for dust, debris, oils, etc to collect on. Regardless, your extended service contract should cover cleaning anyway. Bitch to Best Buy AND call Mitsubishi.
post #3040 of 3491
I called Mits went thru their phone tree and never got to talk to anybody. Called best buy back and said the TV is still under manufactures warranty and there is a obvious visual defect. The best buy tech said he would try to get a new light engine but it may be worse than the one I have. I told him I wanted the picturte to be better than it is now. Anyhow they are going to put in a new light engine and we will see from there. Thnaks for your help.
post #3041 of 3491
Has anyone noticed this problem? I have my Xbox360 "extending" my Vista PC. I watch videos across my network via the Mits 65833. Since the Xbox dash update I have notice an incredible amount of lag between video start and display on the TV. It is far longer than it used to be to the point that the first 5-10 seconds of a video don't show up. Is anyone else doing something like this and noticing extended handshaking?? I know the 360 is at fault, but the Mits has always been slow, just now it's really sloooooow.
post #3042 of 3491
1) Has anybody had their tv just turn off suddenly, then the lamp indicator turns red...but it will come back on when the power is pushed???

2) You know the sound the tv makes when you turn it on...the click noise you hear on any electronic device...I hear that noise sometimes even when the tv is off...any thoughts?

3) Has anyone heard a loud clunking noise when the tv turns off?

Any thoughts on these "issues" would be greatly appreciated. I can get a tech out to the house, but I don't want someone messing around with a perfectly good set that only has intermentent "bugs". I want to tap the brains of you experts to tell me if I should have any concerns.

These are the only "issues" I have had. The tv is great...great pic and no blobs or color wheel noise. It does make a whine for a few seconds after it goes off...big deal. I assume it is the wheel coming to a stop. So far after 6 months I would recommend to anybody.

Thanks for the help,
Jeff
post #3043 of 3491
Quote:
Originally Posted by blaze347 View Post

1) Has anybody had their tv just turn off suddenly, then the lamp indicator turns red...but it will come back on when the power is pushed???

This could be a sign of intermittent problem in the light engine or the
lamp circuit itself. If you TV is still under warranty, I would holler to
Mitsubishi, just to make sure that if/when it croaks, it would be their
responsibility, not yours.

Quote:


2) You know the sound the tv makes when you turn it on...the click noise you hear on any electronic device...I hear that noise sometimes even when the tv is off...any thoughts?

Are you sure this is caused by the TV? If so, it could be part of the
same problem as (1).

Quote:


3) Has anyone heard a loud clunking noise when the tv turns off?

My WD-72833 is dead quiet both when witched on or off.

-- Ron

Quote:


Any thoughts on these "issues" would be greatly appreciated. I can get a tech out to the house, but I don't want someone messing around with a perfectly good set that only has intermentent "bugs". I want to tap the brains of you experts to tell me if I should have any concerns.

These are the only "issues" I have had. The tv is great...great pic and no blobs or color wheel noise. It does make a whine for a few seconds after it goes off...big deal. I assume it is the wheel coming to a stop. So far after 6 months I would recommend to anybody.

Thanks for the help,
Jeff
post #3044 of 3491
can someone please tell me how to get into the service of the 833, I have a friend over to calibrate the set now and need to know how to get into the menu, thanks in advance
post #3045 of 3491
Quote:
Originally Posted by funlvr1965 View Post

can someone please tell me how to get into the service of the 833, I have a friend over to calibrate the set now and need to know how to get into the menu, thanks in advance

My 73833 was replaced through Mitsubishi yesterday with the 73835. I don't know if it is the same but to get into the service for the 835 you:
Press the buttons 2, 4, 5, 7, pause and then press 0 (Data Selection Mode will appear)
Use the up and down buttons to highlight the line for what you want to do and then press enter
Since the other code 2 4 7 0 is the same for both, this will probably work for the 833 also.
post #3046 of 3491
My 73-833.
post #3047 of 3491
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scubawoman View Post

My 73833 was replaced through Mitsubishi yesterday with the 73835. I don't know if it is the same but to get into the service for the 835 you:
Press the buttons 2, 4, 5, 7, pause and then press 0 (Data Selection Mode will appear)
Use the up and down buttons to highlight the line for what you want to do and then press enter
Since the other code 2 4 7 0 is the same for both, this will probably work for the 833 also.

thanks
post #3048 of 3491
my 65833 sometimes gives me a green screen when i switch to my blu-ray input from another although i can still hear the movie's audio. also, it now keeps my setting like 120hz etc. the same for all my inputs. it didn't do this b4. some expert knowledge would be greatly appreciated!
post #3049 of 3491
I have owned a Mit 734 for almost 2 years now, and I am mostly happy.

I have tried as hard as I can to fix the ridiculously WRONG geometry the best I could, but I just cant seem to get it right. Today I hooked up my new HP Pavillion PC through HDMI, and because of all the straight lines in many of computer applications, I am reminded of just how horrible the geometry is on these TV's. All the verticle boundaries for the 16:9 and 4:3 are hour-glassed shaped. For instance, when in Microscoft Works, the blank document is shaped like an hourglass.

I have tried everything I can manually to fix the geometry in the service menu but to no avail.

Also, I was one of the first Mit. owner to complain about the 2 inch horizontal line at the top of the screen that is only detectable if you are right up and below the t.v. screen. It is a very weird phenomenon that I have seen in almost every Mit. set I've looked at, even the newer models.

Anyways, must my 2 cents. - When an affordable 65 - 73 inch LCD comes on the market, I'm there. Of course, I'll be expecting a little bit more quality than what Sharp offers in their 65" LCD's. I think my DLP does pretty well against that set.
post #3050 of 3491
Hi:

I got my 73833 in four weeks ago. It was one of the last to be sold. I have setup the tv with the HDMI color settings provided by the experts on this tread. Thanks to all that contributed.

Now my problem is with DVD and any device that uses component. I have a sony 777ES mega changer. Color is horrible. I see lots of green when the actual color should be red. My son Xbox360 came from repairs today, we could not get the color to blend. On the same TV, we have PS3 on HDMI, perfect color.

Can someone send me via PM color settings suggestions..

Thanks to all.
gto.
post #3051 of 3491
Quote:
Originally Posted by George Omoregie View Post

Hi:

I got my 73833 in four weeks ago. It was one of the last to be sold. I have setup the tv with the HDMI color settings provided by the experts on this tread. Thanks to all that contributed.

Now my problem is with DVD and any device that uses component. I have a sony 777ES mega changer. Color is horrible. I see lots of green when the actual color should be red. My son Xbox360 came from repairs today, we could not get the color to blend. On the same TV, we have PS3 on HDMI, perfect color.

Can someone send me via PM color settings suggestions..

Thanks to all.
gto.

I am sure you have checked this, but it seems to me that one of your component-video cables either has a pair of plugs reversed or one of the three cables is bad or not completely plugged in. I would suspect the red cable.

Cynthia
post #3052 of 3491
Thread Starter 
I have both the 73833 and the 62525. On the 62525, I have to clean the mirrors every so often to get a clear and bright picture. Someone posted very detailed instructions on the mirror cleaning procedure. Does anyone here know whether it's necessary to do the same with the 73833 and if so, has anyone provided detailed instructions on how to do it for this model?
post #3053 of 3491
Quote:
Originally Posted by George Omoregie View Post

Hi:

I got my 73833 in four weeks ago. It was one of the last to be sold. I have setup the tv with the HDMI color settings provided by the experts on this tread. Thanks to all that contributed.

Now my problem is with DVD and any device that uses component. I have a sony 777ES mega changer. Color is horrible. I see lots of green when the actual color should be red. My son Xbox360 came from repairs today, we could not get the color to blend. On the same TV, we have PS3 on HDMI, perfect color.

Can someone send me via PM color settings suggestions..

Thanks to all.
gto.

First: the correct settings for someone else's TV
(even if the exact same model) are not necessarily
correct for your TV. If all TVs required the same
settings, the manufacturer wouldn't have gone to
the trouble and expense of making them
adjustable.

As to your Sony... In all probablity, your component
video cable is either bad or installed incorrectly.
Check that all three cables are connected to the
appropriate port and are fully seated. If the problem
remains, try another cable.

Good luck,

-- Ron
post #3054 of 3491
According to the December 2008 Home Theater review on the Mitsubishi WD-65835 DLP rear projector and Samsung HL61A650 DLP rear projector, both rear projectors have no benefits at all when a 1080P/24 signal is applied since they add a 3:2 pull down process.

Quote from page 72 of the December 2008 Home Theater magazine

"While both of these sets accept a 1080p/24 input, neither keeps it in that form all the way to the screen, either as 24 fps or as a simple multiple of that frame rate (such as 48, 96, or 120 fps). Instead, both sets convert the 24-fps input to 1080p/60 prior to display by performing 3:2 pull-down. While common to most current one-piece televisions, this technique negates any benefit of 24-fps film-based source material (such as reduced judder)."

Here is a link to the list of TV's that actually do 1080p/24 the right way.

Copyhttp://forum.blu-ray.com/showthread.php?t=5155&highlight=mitsCopy

Does any buddy know if the WD-73833 has this same problem? I am betting it does but does any buddy know for sure.

Also in my opinion smooth 120 Hz makes the picture look worse.

1080p/24 and smooth 120hz what a load of marketing ****.

The only thing that does work on this set is 1080p in 1080p out.

Please some buddy correct me if i am wrong.
post #3055 of 3491
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by lujan View Post

I have both the 73833 and the 62525. On the 62525, I have to clean the mirrors every so often to get a clear and bright picture. Someone posted very detailed instructions on the mirror cleaning procedure. Does anyone here know whether it's necessary to do the same with the 73833 and if so, has anyone provided detailed instructions on how to do it for this model?

Bump, I've asked this question twice now and have received no answer. Does anyone know? It seems the WD XX525 Owners thread have a lot more knowledgeable people?
post #3056 of 3491
Quote:
Originally Posted by lujan View Post

Bump, I've asked this question twice now and have received no answer. Does anyone know? It seems the WD XX525 Owners thread have a lot more knowledgeable people?

I had the 73833 for a year and I never saw the need for any cleaning. not that that answered your question but just FYI.
Mitsy upgraded mine to the 73835 2 days before xmas.
post #3057 of 3491
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wryker View Post

I had the 73833 for a year and I never saw the need for any cleaning. not that that answered your question but just FYI.
Mitsy upgraded mine to the 73835 2 days before xmas.

So you're not going to clean the mirrors on the 73835 ever?
post #3058 of 3491
I have a new onkyo s9100 home theater system, I run all imputs via hdmi into the reciever then one hdmi out to tv (hdmi1). xbox ect all work fine, the problem im having is that my LG dvd player won't work..when I turn it on the tv stays black then momentarally goes to blue screen showing hdmi input. then it just goes black....anyone have any suggestions as to why this happens?by the way when dvd was hooked directly to tv input it worked fine. appreciate any thoughts on this
post #3059 of 3491
Quote:
Originally Posted by lujan View Post

So you're not going to clean the mirrors on the 73835 ever?

Not unless i REALLY see a need to.
post #3060 of 3491
Quote:
Originally Posted by mitswd73833 View Post

According to the December 2008 Home Theater review on the Mitsubishi WD-65835 DLP rear projector and Samsung HL61A650 DLP rear projector, both rear projectors have no benefits at all when a 1080P/24 signal is applied since they add a 3:2 pull down process.

Quote from page 72 of the December 2008 Home Theater magazine

"While both of these sets accept a 1080p/24 input, neither keeps it in that form all the way to the screen, either as 24 fps or as a simple multiple of that frame rate (such as 48, 96, or 120 fps). Instead, both sets convert the 24-fps input to 1080p/60 prior to display by performing 3:2 pull-down. While common to most current one-piece televisions, this technique negates any benefit of 24-fps film-based source material (such as reduced judder)."

Here is a link to the list of TV's that actually do 1080p/24 the right way.

Copyhttp://forum.blu-ray.com/showthread.php?t=5155&highlight=mitsCopy

Does any buddy know if the WD-73833 has this same problem? I am betting it does but does any buddy know for sure.

Also in my opinion smooth 120 Hz makes the picture look worse.

1080p/24 and smooth 120hz what a load of marketing ****.

The only thing that does work on this set is 1080p in 1080p out.

Please some buddy correct me if i am wrong.

To be honest, I do not know the answer here, but am
puzzled...

I have a Mitsubeishi WD-73833. It does have 120Hz
refresh. I wonder why would Mitsubishi do 24Hz inputs
incorrectly, when it's just as easy to do it right. After all,
Mitsubishi certainly knows how to do it right, since some
front projection and LCD models have been shown to
work correctly.

I called Mitsubishi before buying the set and was
reassured, but wonder if the clerk wasn't simply telling
me what he thought I wanted to hear. Anyone else talk
to them about this?

-- Ron
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