Official Mitsubishi WD XX833 Owners Thread - Page 103

Have you tried to plug the DVD to another HDMI
input on the receiver?

If it still doesn't work, I would assume some
HDMI incompatilbility between the DVD player
and receiver. In this case, the only cure will be
to permanently run the DVD directly to the
TV. Yes, it's a hassle -- I do it becasue I only
have two HDMI inputs on my pre-pro.

-- Ron

My 65833 set is just a little over a year old and the bulb went out.

So I'd like poll what the avg life span of the bulb?

If it's really just over a year, man, after 4 years, the 65" plasma or LCD does not sound as expensive any more.

^^^^^
What are your hours?

never had the chance to check...it was kaput. gone ...screen blank and Lamp LED was red. So I had to replace it. My avg viewing hr 4-5 hr week night and may be 6-8 hrs on weekend.

^^^^^
Sorry to hear that.
Since this is gonna happen to me any day now, (65833-10 months old) can I ask you.....
Did it happen suddenly....in the middle of viewing, or before you turned it on? Did you notice a gradual dimming beforehand?
If you replaced the bulb yourself, was it pretty straightforward, and is everything lookin' good for you again? Thanks!

It goes out just like a regular light bulb. No warning or dimming. It happened in the middle of viewing...with a loud pop. I didn't know what went wrong. So left it un touch until the service guy come in. He immediately told me it's the lamp because the LAMP led on the front stay lit. Duh

I had the Service Plan which come with one light bulb for free, but I have to order that myself through Best Buy...and you have to wait 2 weeks for the lamp to arrive. So I scheduled the service guy to come in just to install it so I can see how to do it myself next time. Turns out so easy. You just need one flat screw driver to remove the panel in the back. Then the lamp housing unit has handle that you pull out and push in with ease.

Been out of TV since 1st of Jan. Missed all my bowl games and some NFL games everything is back to normal now.

There are suppose OEM lamp out there for 1/2 the price. It would cost about 300.00 if I were to buy it. So wonder if anyone have use the OEM...is it an alternative to consider? Or will it be like those OEM battery or toner that really work just going to make you wish you buy real one from mfr.

I guess no buddy knows for sure if this tv does 1080p/24p right. I guess I will have to sell my TV and go back to front projectors. Any buddy want a WD73-833 with a 5 year warranty for $2500.

Yes it does 1080p/24.

That's a given. Question is, does it do it right?

-- Ron

I understand the spec is 8000 hours, but, best
case, this is a statistical average. Meaning, some
can die much later and others (like yours) , much
sooner.

My own WD-73833 is 17 months old. As of this
morning, the bulb was lit 1635 hours. Assuming
aerage life, it has another 5.5 years to go. so, I
am not that worried...

BTW, OEM bulbs come 'naked'. Installtion is a bit
more involved than what you saw. The one thing
you want to keep in mind is never, ever, touch
the lamp with your fingers.

-- Ron

Thanks so much for all the info, soyuppy!
I'll keep it for reference. I bought an extended warranty which includes two free bulbs from an independent TV dealer, so at least I'm covered for that.

got it to work had to run hdmi from dvd to tv then an optical cable from dvd to reciever

don't know why

thanks for the reply

oh, by the way I had to plug in some cables to the audio on tv...they aren't connected to anything...but then when I press audio on the remote it gave me the option to turn off tv speakers and run through reciever...now i don't have to mute the tv when playing the dvd.

Are you questioning the television because some other forum did not even include it in their posting? The thread mentioned previously:

http://forum.blu-ray.com/showthread....light=mitsCopy

that list doesn't include any of the ..833 models. Therefore, that list is not complete than is it. In fact, all it does is list what the refresh rates of the other monitors. From the published specifications for these Mitsubishi monitors they do have 120Hz refresh, and list why they do have the feature. It has to do with Multiples of frame rate. The more important question is what is the source and will it feed a 24P signal. So why are you still questioning it???

BESIDES ... this is a frame based technology. This type of monitor is not based on scan lines. It displays complete frames at any one time.

In fact it is one of the few monitors that has the capability for stereoscopic viewing (although I understand that requires 140Hz for optimal viewing)

note: I have a Pioneer BDP-05 Blu-ray which can output 24P from such encoded discs. The monitor accepts this output and displays it's input as 24P. The television would not be able to display that image if it did not process it in a 24P mode. I am assuming that they are truly spinning the colour wheel at 720rpm or greater, to allow the refresh rate of the 120Hz. I don't know what the criteria is for the other forum to make their conclusions, but I don't think it is accurate in this regard. Besides, the picture is stellar. I am not sure what your looking for in a monitor ... something you cannot see? I have yet to see any artifacts!

I'm reposting this owner's report about having David Abrams calibrate his display so that other owners will have a better chance to read it.


I'm including a link to this post in the RPTV (Post#1) list that's linked at the bottom of my post.

Thanks ALTANertive.

Ok, I have a problem and I need help, please! I believe I broke something inside my tv and no longer get sound out of the Left Front Speaker.

I have a WD65833 DLP, worked great up until today. I'm using a cheap receiver to pump sound to a 3.1 setup, no problems for over a year, but today the left front speaker stopped putting out sound to my 3.1 system.

Using TV speakers only I still do not get sound out of the left front speaker (the rear speakers with surround sound on works, however), so I'm very positive it's something on the inside of the TV (hoping just a fuse or something).

I've pulled the back off my tv now, but am not entirely sure where the audio hooks up to the board on the inside. Does anyone know of a place I can find a pdf or something of the diagram on the inside, such as fuse locations, connector locations, etc?

Has anyone else had trouble losing a left or right speaker/sound from one of these? I'm trying to avoid calling out a tv repair company. My assumption is something burned out, maybe a fuse, dust crossed some connections, etc. I just don't know where to look exactly.


EDIT: I should probably reiterate, it's the front left audio channel that no longer works...not the speaker itself.

Have you tried checking the connections at the speaker itself? It could have rattled loose if the connection was not solid to begin with. That's where I'd start, as it's probably the easiest thing to check.

I'll check that, but it's not just the speaker...it's also giving no audio to the front left speaker of my 3.1 system that runs through a receiver. So, when I turn the TV speakers OFF and turn the A/V speakers ON (the setting on the TV) I still get no front left speaker sound.

It never is that easy, is it...

Since you're getting no audio out of both the left TV speaker
and the left audio line output, the problem is highly likely (but
not quite 100% certainly) in the TV. To make sure, unplug
the TV audio output from the receiver input and acertain you
still get no audio from the TV.

If so, there's a multitude of possible faults in the TV. However,
connectors are not likely candidates. To locate the fault, you
need the service manual (specifically, the schematic and PCB
layouts) and a signal tracer (an instrument thal allows you to
check whether an audio signal is present on a line). You then
check for audio starting at the left speaker and working
backwards through the signal path. Somewhere in there the
signal will appear, and that's the area where the fault is
located.

Assuming you have no access to test instruments, you can
try to connect audio from any known good component (say,
CD player) directly to any of the other TV left audio inputs,
select that input and listen for sound from the TV speaker.
Try this on several inputs (say, input 1, input 2, either
component, etc.) and see whether you get any sound from
the left speaker. If you do, the fault is in the path currently
feeding your receiver. If not, the fault is in -- or precedes --
the audio switching circuit This somewhat localizes the fault,
but probably, not enough to identify the bad component.

Good luck,

-- Ron

I just posted below on the wrong thread, just found this one (I think I am in the right place?)


I have a wd-73833 about year old.

In last couple of months I am getting red/green horizontal lines across the screen at random times. Sometimes when I turn it on, and sometimes when it has been on for awhile. It has (so far) gone away after a little time. Seems to happening more often.

Of my many concerns...if I call someone to come out I can't "make" it happen for them. It might or not. Have a lot invested and want it taken care of while in reg/extended warranty.

BTW, it blew the lamp in the second month and they replaced that.

Again, if I should be in another forum pleas show me the way.

Thanks for any input.

Several posts mentioned checking how many hours you have on an xx833.* How do you do this?Thanks.-Brad

A simple search here took 30 seconds to find your answer....
For Bulb life press menu 2470, the number on the bottom left is the hours the bulb has been used

I have the Mitsubishi 73833, and it works great when it wants to. The picture sometimes goes out on it. The audio will still work, but the whole screen will randomly go kaput. The audio will continue to function, and it is driving me crazy. I used to be an electronics tech, so your suggestions can be very technical so If anyone has any ideas, please help!

Thanks,
Chuck R

First thing to check is whether the lamp goes
out when the screen blanks. If it does, I would
further investigate the lamp circuit. If not, I
would look at the display chip drive circuit.

-- Ron

Dumb question: Are you still under any warranty? Original or extended?

what is the input and source? Or does it happen on all sources?
Is OSD affected?

I purchased my tv 12/12/08. The Mainboard was replaced on 01/20 due to intermitent audio problem from within the TV (without the engagement of A/V receiver.
This was fixed. Now, I am experiencing same problem as reported in this message.
My tv will just quit, the light is still on, audio still on, picture will just go blank and will no more come back. It happened twice last night. The second time, I noticed the lamp deemed very low, and suddenly it was bright again. I hardly use this TV. I know it is not the lamp. The picture looks very bright when it works
I will watch the behavior of this tv for more problems then I will be letting the ASC guy in my area know about it.
Iam still under the normal warranty. I also have extended 5 year warranty coverage .
If it persists, I guess it will be time for a new 82 inch. I was waiting for a unit bigger than 73 inch, could not wait anymore, so in 12/08, I had to get this.
Any insight to this issue?
Thanks.
George T. Omoregie.