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Official Mitsubishi WD XX833 Owners Thread - Page 109

post #3241 of 3491
2/20/10 at 8:07am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by soyuppy View Post

It was replaced by the service guy. I had purchased the extended warranty service, so I was entitled to one free bulb replacement. If this number has to be reset manually after the bulb is replaced, then for sure that didn't happen. And this number would represent since the set was put in use, which is Sep 2007, along with 1 bulb replacement? How does one reset this number?

I'm trying to recall but usually the set asks on the screen after a lamp replacement something like, "Did you replace the lamp?" and if you answer "Yes", then it does the reset. Do you recall that ever happening after your lamp replacement?
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post #3242 of 3491
2/20/10 at 3:27pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by soyuppy View Post

When checking light bulb thru menu 2-4-7-0, what does this number represent? Is it Hrs remain? % of hr remain? hr used since last replaced? cumulative hour used?

The number reflects hours of operation since
the counter was last reset. This means that if
you replace the bulb without resetting the
counter, the number represents hours for
both bulbs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by soyuppy View Post

mine said 05157. I had it replaced last year after about only a 1 1/2 years of usage. I am hoping that the replaced bulb would at least last 2+ years with moderate viewing. With each bulb costing 300+, and replacing this every 1 1/2, after the 3rd bulb replacement, the cost of getting 65 LCD is creeping up on par with this so call budget alternative to large TV ...that lead me on to the DLP path when I started this journey 3 years ago.

Does anyone recommend going with OEM bulb for 1/2 the price or full mits bulb is the way to go?

I do. Osram makes all these bulbs.
Mitsubishy machines the bulb body
so it fits into their housing, then sells
it in the housing for $300+. You can
buy a bulb that has already been
machined, but without the housing,
for less than $140. (If you have a file
handy, you can machine the bulb
yourself in about 10 minutes).

I've had my set for over 2 years and
the original bulb is still going strong.

-- Ron
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post #3243 of 3491
2/20/10 at 3:33pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by lujan View Post

I'm trying to recall but usually the set asks on the screen after a lamp replacement something like, "Did you replace the lamp?" and if you answer "Yes", then it does the reset. Do you recall that ever happening after your lamp replacement?

I did replace a good bulb with a new one
and my set didn't detect the bulb change.
I suspect that it will notice after a dead
bulb is replaced.

-- Ron
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post #3244 of 3491
2/21/10 at 9:48pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by lujan View Post

I'm trying to recall but usually the set asks on the screen after a lamp replacement something like, "Did you replace the lamp?" and if you answer "Yes", then it does the reset. Do you recall that ever happening after your lamp replacement?

No I don't recall having seen such message. I will have to keep an eye on it's time for the 3rd bulb. I'm hoping that this one will last a bit longer than the previous one. I wish I had jot down what the number was when I had it replaced...urghh...
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post #3245 of 3491
2/21/10 at 9:58pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by ron12n View Post

The number reflects hours of operation since
the counter was last reset. This means that if
you replace the bulb without resetting the
counter, the number represents hours for
both bulbs.


I do. Osram makes all these bulbs.
Mitsubishy machines the bulb body
so it fits into their housing, then sells
it in the housing for $300+. You can
buy a bulb that has already been
machined, but without the housing,
for less than $140. (If you have a file
handy, you can machine the bulb
yourself in about 10 minutes).

I've had my set for over 2 years and
the original bulb is still going strong.

-- Ron

You mean, just buy OEM bulb from online retailer, Discount-Merchant has it for a bit over 100. Then just following their setup instruction video to replace the bulb and reuse the housing? Is what you mean by "machine the bulb"?
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post #3246 of 3491
2/22/10 at 10:35am
Quote:
Originally Posted by soyuppy View Post

You mean, just buy OEM bulb from online retailer, Discount-Merchant has it for a bit over 100. Then just following their setup instruction video to replace the bulb and reuse the housing? Is what you mean by "machine the bulb"?

The bulb, as it comes from Osram, won't fit
in the Mitsubishi housing. To fit, the bulb has
to filed (that's what I meant by 'machined')
to round off the front edges.

Some dealers sell the bulb already filed. Others
sell it as it comes from Osram (meaning, you
have to do it yourself). If you're handy, it's no
big deal. You can always ask the dealer whether
the bulbs he sells have already been modified to
fit the housing.

Once the bulb has been machined, replacing it in
the housing is easy and quick. Takes maybe 15
minutes. You do have to be (minimally) handy.
Mine came with fairly rudimentary instructions.

-- Ron
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post #3247 of 3491
2/25/10 at 4:09pm
I'm thinking of getting a new bulb ahead of time so I'll be ready to go.
Is this what you guys have been ordering for a 65833 replacement bulb?
Do I need the cage assembly too?
http://www.purelandsupply.com/WD6583...-TV-Bulbs.html
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post #3248 of 3491
2/26/10 at 9:10am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mds54 View Post

I'm thinking of getting a new bulb ahead of time so I'll be ready to go.
Is this what you guys have been ordering for a 65833 replacement bulb?
Do I need the cage assembly too?
http://www.purelandsupply.com/WD6583...-TV-Bulbs.html

I just ordered mine from here:

http://www.amatteroffax.com/

and it only cost $125.25 and it comes with the housing as well.
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post #3249 of 3491
2/26/10 at 11:43am
Thanks for that! The price is much better.

Is it more difficult to install with the housing
instead of just the bare bulb itself? What's the
advantage (if any) of ordering it with the housing?
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post #3250 of 3491
2/26/10 at 11:51am
Wouldn't I just need the bare bulb by itself?
http://www.bulbsoutlet.com/shop-by-b...bare-lamp.html
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post #3251 of 3491
2/26/10 at 1:08pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mds54 View Post

Thanks for that! The price is much better.

Is it more difficult to install with the housing
instead of just the bare bulb itself? What's the
advantage (if any) of ordering it with the housing?

The installation with the housing is much easier than without although I haven't tried it without. Some people say you have to file the bulb in order to fit the existing housing but I don't know for sure since I've always ordered with the housing.
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post #3252 of 3491
2/26/10 at 1:33pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by lujan View Post

The installation with the housing is much easier than without although I haven't tried it without. Some people say you have to file the bulb in order to fit the existing housing but I don't know for sure since I've always ordered with the housing.

I thought I read here that filing was only necessary with NON-Mits brand bulbs?
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post #3253 of 3491
2/26/10 at 9:20pm
Haven't visited thread in a while. I got my 73833 September 2007 and it's still going strong. Only issues I have is occasionally it won't HDMI sync and then I have to wait to be able to turn set off and then back on.

I have 2165 hours on original lamp.

When I pulled up the 2-4-7-0 menu, there were items called Power Restore, Production Mode and G-Link.. which were all turned off. What are these for?

Also.. My firmware version is V38.009.02 Would Mits send me updated firmware or is it only to fix a specific problem.
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post #3254 of 3491
2/27/10 at 6:26am
Quote:
Originally Posted by mds54 View Post

I thought I read here that filing was only necessary with NON-Mits brand bulbs?

All these lamps are made by Osram. The lamp
that goes into the WD-xx833 Mitsu TV housing
requires filing, unless the vendor has already
done it for you.

-- Ron
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post #3255 of 3491
3/3/10 at 12:23pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by lujan View Post

I just ordered mine from here:

http://www.amatteroffax.com/

and it only cost $125.25 and it comes with the housing as well.

Lujan:
I ordered mine through the same website, which says the lamp is in stock.
Five days after processing, I get an email saying that it's now on B/O.

Have you received your order without any problems?
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post #3256 of 3491
3/3/10 at 12:31pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mds54 View Post

Lujan:
I ordered mine through the same website, which says the lamp is in stock.
Five days after processing, I get an email saying that it's now on B/O.

Have you received your order without any problems?

I just got it today and it looks good, right model number. They shipped it via UPS. I guess they don't keep a lot of them in stock if it's already on backorder since I ordered mine.
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post #3257 of 3491
3/3/10 at 1:09pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by lujan View Post

I just got it today and it looks good, right model number. They shipped it via UPS. I guess they don't keep a lot of them in stock if it's already on backorder since I ordered mine.

Thanks!
It's reassuring to know that they got the model number right.
I appreciate your feedback!
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post #3258 of 3491
3/27/10 at 12:48pm
Occasionally when I'm using my Xbox 360 on my wd-65833 I see a shimmering/shuttering effect on the left side of the screen. Any and all suggestions welcome. I'll probably buy the 82" in a couple months. Are they having the same problems?
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post #3259 of 3491
4/8/10 at 7:47pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by rightintel View Post

Occasionally when I'm using my Xbox 360 on my wd-65833 I see a shimmering/shuttering effect on the left side of the screen. Any and all suggestions welcome. I'll probably buy the 82" in a couple months. Are they having the same problems?

I have had the same effect. I had it for quite awhile and then had to replace the bulb when it burned out. After about 1000 hours on the new bulb it is occurring occasionally again. I run Directv dvrs and PS3. The only time it doesn't occur is with the antennae.
I also have a 65737 and so far have never seen these stutters with this set.
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post #3260 of 3491
5/8/10 at 7:05am
A question for the gurus...

I just got a new Oppo BDP-83 blue ray player. It
supports Clear Color with setting choices of Off,
30 bits and 36bits (the last two with or without
dithering).

The blurb for my Mitsubishi WD-73833 states it
supports Clear Color. but no mention is made of
number of bits or dithering. I couldn't find any info
in the user manual. For now, I set the player
Clear Color to Off, but would like to know the
correct setting for my specific TV.

Does anyone here have further information?

BTW, I discarded the idea of calling Mitsubishi
support. On previous technical queries they were
exceedingly unhelpful.

TIA,

-- Ron
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post #3261 of 3491
5/9/10 at 6:57am
Clear color or deep color,or are they the same? I also couldn't figure how to set the Oppo. My understanding, if it is deep color, is that nothing on discs currently are offering that feature.
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post #3262 of 3491
5/9/10 at 8:44am
I have two DVR2160's for sale. One operates 100%, but the other has a bad interface board that I confirmed by swapping boards between the two.

Both drives have a copy of HD Net's test patterns (a 15 minute segment). Both also have very low hours. These work off of older Samsung, Mits and Toshiba TV's with 1394 ports.

PM me if interested.
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post #3263 of 3491
5/10/10 at 6:15pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by gatorman View Post

Clear color or deep color,or are they the same? I also couldn't figure how to set the Oppo. My understanding, if it is deep color, is that nothing on discs currently are offering that feature.

The BDP-83 setting should match the display
spec. The Player manual does state that no
disc currently offers Deep Color, but what the
heck, if I have it why not set correctly? :-)

-- Ron
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post #3264 of 3491
5/29/10 at 3:25pm
Well, a little over a year since I had service for the flickering intensity on my 73833, I started seeing it intermittently again. I have a service call scheduled for Tuesday so I hope it happens when the tech shows up. The last time they ended up doing a massive parts replacement of the lamp, power supply and ballast.

This is the second Mitsubishi DLP that I have had (first was a 65525 with the capacitor issues) and both have needed service for expensive boards. Thank goodness I went with the extended warranty on both sets but that won't do much good if the same parts keep failing every year or two once the warranty period is over. This set was what I selected as a replacement for my first set. It is making me reconsider any of their other TV's in the future since it seems they are using inferior parts but I don't know that I can give up the bigger screen size.
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post #3265 of 3491
5/30/10 at 10:04am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Natrix1973 View Post

Well, a little over a year since I had service for the flickering intensity on my 73833, I started seeing it intermittently again. I have a service call scheduled for Tuesday so I hope it happens when the tech shows up. The last time they ended up doing a massive parts replacement of the lamp, power supply and ballast.

This is the second Mitsubishi DLP that I have had (first was a 65525 with the capacitor issues) and both have needed service for expensive boards. Thank goodness I went with the extended warranty on both sets but that won't do much good if the same parts keep failing every year or two once the warranty period is over. This set was what I selected as a replacement for my first set. It is making me reconsider any of their other TV's in the future since it seems they are using inferior parts but I don't know that I can give up the bigger screen size.

I suspect you're just unlucky. My own TV
(same model as yours) just celebrated its
3rd birthday and (knock on wood) has had
zero problems so far.

That said, it is true that they don't make it
like they used to. 'It' refers to just about
any consumer product. Gone are the days
when you could expect your new TV to last
20 years. Products are shipped right out of
the manufacturing line, after an automated,
rudumentary, functional test. No burn in, no
extensive testing.

No real DOA/infant malady numbers are
available, but I suspect most consumer
products are around 15% where 1% was
the norm in the good old days. This is fairly
widespread, Mitsubishi is no worse than the
rest.

Good luck with your set,

-- Ron
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post #3266 of 3491
5/30/10 at 1:46pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Natrix1973 View Post

Well, a little over a year since I had service for the flickering intensity on my 73833, I started seeing it intermittently again. I have a service call scheduled for Tuesday so I hope it happens when the tech shows up. The last time they ended up doing a massive parts replacement of the lamp, power supply and ballast.

This is the second Mitsubishi DLP that I have had (first was a 65525 with the capacitor issues) and both have needed service for expensive boards. Thank goodness I went with the extended warranty on both sets but that won't do much good if the same parts keep failing every year or two once the warranty period is over. This set was what I selected as a replacement for my first set. It is making me reconsider any of their other TV's in the future since it seems they are using inferior parts but I don't know that I can give up the bigger screen size.

Are you sure you didn't mean 62525? I don't think there was a 65525. If so, you and I have had the same TV's (62525 and 73833). I still have both but they both have had to have the DM boards replaced. They are both working great (knock on wood). I've only replaced one lamp on the 62525 and haven't had to replace the lamp on the 73833 yet.
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post #3267 of 3491
5/30/10 at 4:04pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by lujan View Post

Are you sure you didn't mean 62525? I don't think there was a 65525. If so, you and I have had the same TV's (62525 and 73833). I still have both but they both have had to have the DM boards replaced. They are both working great (knock on wood). I've only replaced one lamp on the 62525 and haven't had to replace the lamp on the 73833 yet.

Yes, I meant 62525. Best Buy hauled that one away when the caps went bad on the replacement chassis assembly and the 73833 was what I selected for a replacement. The funny thing is that I saw my set on the floor for sale as an open box, so I assume they replaced the chassis assembly again. I don't know if they sold it, they were asking like $1,700 or something for it.
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post #3268 of 3491
6/2/10 at 5:59pm
Here is a quick update, the tech that came out yesterday had no ideas on the flickering issue. He called Mits and told them what had been replaced before and they didn't offer to much help saying it could be pretty much anything. He left with no resolution yesterday and said he would need to talk to another tech and get back to me. He called me today and they are going to try replacing the lamp, ballast and power supply again next week.
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post #3269 of 3491
6/3/10 at 5:30pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Natrix1973 View Post

Here is a quick update, the tech that came out yesterday had no ideas on the flickering issue. He called Mits and told them what had been replaced before and they didn't offer to much help saying it could be pretty much anything. He left with no resolution yesterday and said he would need to talk to another tech and get back to me. He called me today and they are going to try replacing the lamp, ballast and power supply again next week.

I also had a 62725 that Mits replaced with a 65833. It's now about two years old and began intermittent flickering about a month ago. Before it wasn't that noticable, only the left few inches of the screen. Now it is sometimes the entire screen and very annoying.
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post #3270 of 3491
6/5/10 at 10:22am
The saga continues for me....

So this morning I turn on the TV and all of my HDMI ports have disappeared from the input selection screen so I can't select any of the HDMI ports. I entered the menu screen and the HDMI ports show as active inputs, so if figure I should do a system reset. I hit the system reset button and now the TV will not power up. The timer light continually flashes and the TV won't reset. I have tried unplugging the TV for 5 minutes to try reset it and I get the same thing when I plug it back in. The timer light just keeps flashing and the TV won't reset.
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