or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Rear Projection Units › Official Mitsubishi WD XX833 Owners Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Official Mitsubishi WD XX833 Owners Thread - Page 12

post #331 of 3509
A simple DVE calibration of this set will get you very little. Other than the overall build quality, which seems very good, the real value of this set is the PerfectColor and PerfectTint controls and the fine color temperature adjustments in the service menu. A calibration DVD by itself will not help you with this. You need technical instruments and knowledge of how to use them.

So the issue isn't really whether you have a professional do it or settling for an amateur DIY job. The issue is does the amateur have the equipment and know how to use it, and is he/she technically inclined enough to even want to bother? If yes to all of these, then an amateur could get a nice calibration. If no, then no amount of adjustment with DVE/Avia alone is going to make a substantial difference.
post #332 of 3509
Quote:
Originally Posted by TomHuffman View Post

A simple DVE calibration of this set will get you very little. Other than the overall build quality, which seems very good, the real value of this set is the PerfectColor and PerfectTint controls and the fine color temperature adjustments in the service menu. A calibration DVD by itself will not help you with this. You need technical instruments and knowledge of how to use them.

So the issue isn't really whether you have a professional do it or settling for an amateur DIY job. The issue is does the amateur have the equipment and know how to use it, and is he/she technically inclined enough to even want to bother? If yes to all of these, then an amateur could get a nice calibration. If no, then no amount of adjustment with DVE/Avia alone is going to make a substantial difference.


I disagree.. I think you can make a fairly substantial difference with a little simple calibration.. This TV is pretty bad out of the box IMO. Now Im not saying that youll get perfect NTSC standards with a calibration DVD.. but youll make a very noticeable difference with this set.
post #333 of 3509
Quote:
Originally Posted by usmcss View Post

I can tell you that one of the reasons I purchased this set is the way it handles glare; does a very good job!

I think he must be referring to SSE, I don't recall any glare on the SXRD when I owned it but virtually all microdisplays have SSE to one degree or another. SSE bothers some more than others. I was an owner of the SXRD in a bright sunny room and had no glare issues but periodically SSE would be visible but not to the extent that I found it annoying. It was rumored over a year ago on this forum that the Mits panels would have a high gain screen to prevent SSE and Glare more than others but do not recall if it actually happened with these or not.

If I were able to see the same WoW factor with shadow details (besides the size) on the Mits I'd get the 73833 for sure. So far with in-store viewing I haven't been able to replicate it but part of the problem is the manner in which they display them now it's downright difficult to audition these factors the way they are setup in our stores anyways - in fact it almost seems intentional so as to sell more flat panels.
post #334 of 3509
around how much does a professional calibration cost?
post #335 of 3509
Almost 3 bills from the bird company here n the south
post #336 of 3509
Quote:
Originally Posted by usedparts View Post

I just purchased the Sony, although the picture has produced a lot of WOW moments for me, the glare on the screen is bugging me to much to keep. Now I have seen the 65833 it the store, it seems to have a better anti-glare screen. My question is will the Mits produce the same kind of WOW picture that the Sony has. Second, as nice as the picture on the Sony is, while watching DTV it can go from a WOW moment scene and right to a scene where everyone looks "pasty" and digitized. I realize this is probably from the source and not the TV but it would be very nice to know if Mits handled DTV any better.

Thanks

Scott

Like usmcss, one of the reasons i got the 65833 was for the Anti glare screen, as have a room with lots of light, It handles glare very good!
As for will the Mit produce the same kind of WOW picture that the Sony, well to me the Mit is a little better than the Sony! one reason i pick the mit over the sony.
post #337 of 3509
Alot of people are asking how the pip works so I will give a go.
(1) It does have it.
2. You can split or pip 2 hd sources side by side. I have done this myself.
You can NOT split two hdmi at the same time. You CAN split hdmi and component. You can split two diff component ins. You can split sd inputs side by side. You CANNOT split the two antenna inputs. You can resize the sides. That should do it. Also: For the heck of it I hooked up two pc's to the tv. One dvi>hdmi and the other dvi>component. I split the screen and played with a buddy of mine some coop games like rainbow six etc over lan. Worked perfectly. I have none of the overscan that I had with my 2005 sony sxrd xbr1.
post #338 of 3509
How do you select the input directly from the remote? I can't seem to find a way to do it. So if you can't do this, then how would one program a universal remote control to select the input correctly? Has anyone try this?
post #339 of 3509
do you not have an input button on your remote? Or am I missing something? It's to the right of the channel down button.
post #340 of 3509
honestly, if a set is bad enough that it "needs" a professional to come out to adjust it , there is something seriously wrong there IMHO. Using calibration, or even just eyeballing it settings other have used (with some minor tweaks) is going to get you 90% of the way there. I personally dont see the value of $300 to get 10%. Others I'm sure will go "worth every penny" but I have to question whether they actually see a difference or want to see a difference as their checking account is $300 lighter. I personally think I'm pretty critical with the quality of the set and I'm tickled pink over what I see now on it.

Just my 2 cents is all....
post #341 of 3509
Quote:
Originally Posted by westa6969 View Post

I think he must be referring to SSE, I don't recall any glare on the SXRD when I owned it but virtually all microdisplays have SSE to one degree or another. SSE bothers some more than others. I was an owner of the SXRD in a bright sunny room and had no glare issues but periodically SSE would be visible but not to the extent that I found it annoying. It was rumored over a year ago on this forum that the Mits panels would have a high gain screen to prevent SSE and Glare more than others but do not recall if it actually happened with these or not.

If I were able to see the same WoW factor with shadow details (besides the size) on the Mits I'd get the 73833 for sure. So far with in-store viewing I haven't been able to replicate it but part of the problem is the manner in which they display them now it's downright difficult to audition these factors the way they are setup in our stores anyways - in fact it almost seems intentional so as to sell more flat panels.

Maybe I worded something wrong?

I don't know what SSE is; what I was trying to say is that the 73833 does not have any glare. What I mean by this is that it does not let me see what my 17 year old son is doing behind my back any longer.
post #342 of 3509
SSE is Silk Screen Effect. Its kind of like seeing a screen door on your display
post #343 of 3509
Quote:
Originally Posted by usmcss View Post

Maybe I worded something wrong?

I don't know what SSE is; what I was trying to say is that the 73833 does not have any glare. What I mean by this is that it does not let me see what my 17 year old son is doing behind my back any longer.

Nope, didn't word anything wrong. We understood your post. westa was commenting on the post you quoted.
post #344 of 3509
Quote:
Originally Posted by upinsmoke View Post

honestly, if a set is bad enough that it "needs" a professional to come out to adjust it , there is something seriously wrong there IMHO. Using calibration, or even just eyeballing it settings other have used (with some minor tweaks) is going to get you 90% of the way there. I personally dont see the value of $300 to get 10%. Others I'm sure will go "worth every penny" but I have to question whether they actually see a difference or want to see a difference as their checking account is $300 lighter. I personally think I'm pretty critical with the quality of the set and I'm tickled pink over what I see now on it.

Just my 2 cents is all....

Good to know i'm not the only one that feels this way, i know what looks good to me , I have both my tv's set that to me/us the PQ looks WOW, and yes, i'd seen doz's of professional calibration sets,and have had more than one tell me they like it better before they had it professional done, but it has to be better, so they just need to get used to it. If i have to pay someone $300., $400. to make my set look good , I need a new set.
post #345 of 3509
Quote:
Originally Posted by usmcss View Post

Maybe I worded something wrong?

I don't know what SSE is; what I was trying to say is that the 73833 does not have any glare. What I mean by this is that it does not let me see what my 17 year old son is doing behind my back any longer.

You worded it fine! I knew what you met,
Your right! the 833's does very good at no glare with the anti glare screen
post #346 of 3509
I just typed a nice long reply to this, hit something that caused it all to vanish. Great.

to sum up what I had before - yup, I agree with ya there brother.

Unless I get a guarantee that I do not have to pay for it if I'm not satisfied I will not be having it performed on my set.
post #347 of 3509
Quote:
Originally Posted by bguile View Post

do you not have an input button on your remote? Or am I missing something? It's to the right of the channel down button.

Well, it require you hitting the input then use the left/right to select. You can't just say hit input1 and input2, etc. That's what I'm talking about.
post #348 of 3509
Quote:
Originally Posted by upinsmoke View Post

honestly, if a set is bad enough that it "needs" a professional to come out to adjust it , there is something seriously wrong there IMHO. Using calibration, or even just eyeballing it settings other have used (with some minor tweaks) is going to get you 90% of the way there. I personally dont see the value of $300 to get 10%. Others I'm sure will go "worth every penny" but I have to question whether they actually see a difference or want to see a difference as their checking account is $300 lighter. I personally think I'm pretty critical with the quality of the set and I'm tickled pink over what I see now on it.

Just my 2 cents is all....

I agree 100%, couldnt have said it better myself.
post #349 of 3509
How the hell are bugs getting inside this tv? I mean insect bugs. Every night there is a different gigantic bug shaped shadow flying around the inside of my screen. I do not have an insect problem, no more than the usual AZ summertime fare, but yet here they are. They are little moth bugs, really small. Yet when they sit on my lamp inside, they are projected as massive shadows.
post #350 of 3509
where did the weight go?

i owned a wd-73831 until today when my wd-73833 was delivered.

my question i would appreciate input on is why is the 833 so much lighter? i know that the 833 is less in depth, and about 5 inches in width, but the 833 is easily 30-40+ pounds lighter.

help me if you can!
post #351 of 3509
Quote:
Originally Posted by upinsmoke View Post

SSE is Silk Screen Effect. Its kind of like seeing a screen door on your display

Quote:


Stew4msu; Nope, didn't word anything wrong. We understood your post. westa was commenting on the post you quoted.

Quote:


tlbowerts; You worded it fine! I knew what you met,
Your right! the 833's does very good at no glare with the anti glare screen

Got it, thanks.
post #352 of 3509
Quote:
Originally Posted by upinsmoke View Post

honestly, if a set is bad enough that it "needs" a professional to come out to adjust it , there is something seriously wrong there IMHO. Using calibration, or even just eyeballing it settings other have used (with some minor tweaks) is going to get you 90% of the way there. I personally dont see the value of $300 to get 10%. Others I'm sure will go "worth every penny" but I have to question whether they actually see a difference or want to see a difference as their checking account is $300 lighter. I personally think I'm pretty critical with the quality of the set and I'm tickled pink over what I see now on it.

Just my 2 cents is all....

I "calibrated" mine to the surrounding ambience and my visual liking using a THX movie and I think it looks pretty darn good. I'll post pics later. I don't have an AVIA or DVE tools yet so I had to use what I've got. Maybe sure my colors could get a little deeper but I really don't see how a "digital calibration" can necessarily tell me what my eyes like. I see a lot of people here like the natural brightness mode. I like my colors cooler so I use "bright".

I think that if calibration was sooo important, the initial one should be done free by the companies we purchase them from. After all they come and deliver it, why not do the initial calibration free as part of their service or at least a significantly reduced fee. I mean, we didn't pay $2K plus for these things to get in our house and suck! Did we??
post #353 of 3509
Just a heads up to anyone wanting to purchase this stand; heat is an issue. Most of you would probably know not to but an xbox elite and hd-dvd player in this stand and I knew better as well but did it anyway. Well the HD player for the 360 overheated, the eject light turned red and the unit would not work; it was very hot. I let it cool down and now it works. All the other components seem fine, it's just that xbox, it builds up a lot of heat.

After looking at that photo, I just realized that I need to switch the speaker and the sub. Can't believe me or anyone in my family didn't notice that.

post #354 of 3509
Quote:
Originally Posted by tlbowerts View Post

but for gaming, (this is where everyone seems to see the differents) this to me is a good thing, tells me the 734 has very good PQ also, even without 120Hz.

okay.. I might be sold on this 120hz thing if indeed it makes my video games look better. However, does the tv do 120hz on all inputs, including component? I have the older Xbox360 without the HDMI, and don't plan on changing it out anytime soon. I'd strongly consider the 833 vs the 734 if it improves my gaming experience

Also, with the HD-DVD add on running only 1080i, will 120hz make any difference at all, or do you need to be running 1080p w/ hdmi to really appreciate it?

couple more questions. I've heard that the 833 has a better anti-reflective screen, but I don't seen it anywhere in the spec sheet. Can someone confirm and is it really better? and Lastly, in regards to PIP, can I have two seperate HDMI HD Sources on split screen at once? Some TVs only let you do split screen on one source in conjunction with the integrated tuner. I use a cable box, but still want to do split screen... for example, I want to watch a football game while playing it on Madden at the same time. Will this be possible?

I was just about to pull the trigger on a 734, but then I found a deal on the 833 which is only $500 more. Is it worth it?
post #355 of 3509
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjahadi View Post

okay.. I might be sold on this 120hz thing if indeed it makes my video games look better. However, does the tv do 120hz on all inputs, including component? I have the older Xbox360 without the HDMI, and don't plan on changing it out anytime soon. I'd strongly consider the 833 vs the 734 if it improves my gaming experience

Also, with the HD-DVD add on running only 1080i, will 120hz make any difference at all, or do you need to be running 1080p w/ hdmi to really appreciate it?

couple more questions. I've heard that the 833 has a better anti-reflective screen, but I don't seen it anywhere in the spec sheet. Can someone confirm and is it really better? and Lastly, in regards to PIP, can I have two seperate HDMI HD Sources on split screen at once? Some TVs only let you do split screen on one source in conjunction with the integrated tuner. I use a cable box, but still want to do split screen... for example, I want to watch a football game while playing it on Madden at the same time. Will this be possible?

I was just about to pull the trigger on a 734, but then I found a deal on the 833 which is only $500 more. Is it worth it?

all of what you said interests me as well i want to know if this 120hz is all hype or the real deal.
post #356 of 3509
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjahadi View Post

okay.. I might be sold on this 120hz thing if indeed it makes my video games look better. However, does the tv do 120hz on all inputs, including component? I have the older Xbox360 without the HDMI, and don't plan on changing it out anytime soon. I'd strongly consider the 833 vs the 734 if it improves my gaming experience

Also, with the HD-DVD add on running only 1080i, will 120hz make any difference at all, or do you need to be running 1080p w/ hdmi to really appreciate it?

couple more questions. I've heard that the 833 has a better anti-reflective screen, but I don't seen it anywhere in the spec sheet. Can someone confirm and is it really better? and Lastly, in regards to PIP, can I have two seperate HDMI HD Sources on split screen at once? Some TVs only let you do split screen on one source in conjunction with the integrated tuner. I use a cable box, but still want to do split screen... for example, I want to watch a football game while playing it on Madden at the same time. Will this be possible?

I was just about to pull the trigger on a 734, but then I found a deal on the 833 which is only $500 more. Is it worth it?

It appears that 120 is on all inputs. Does 120 make a difference in gaming; I didn't notice any difference. That doesn't mean there isn't, I just might not have the eye for it. I tried it with Madden 08.

Anti glare is Awesome!!! I don't know if it is better then the 734.

You can't Split Screen two HDMI INPUTS. You stated that you don't have HDMI for your xbox so this would not be an issue for you. You could split screen your xbox (input component) with your cable (input HDMI)

You cannot split screen ether ant. inputs. You also can't split screen if you are viewing a 1080p signal which is stupid.

Hope this helps.

More screen shots attached.
LL
LL
LL
post #357 of 3509
ewwwww McNabb? ZOMG! one of the most over rated QB's in the game...
post #358 of 3509
Quote:
Originally Posted by upinsmoke View Post

ewwwww McNabb? ZOMG! one of the most over rated QB's in the game...

I am an Eagles fan to the end, and I love watching McNabb when he is playing well. But I might agree with your statement.
post #359 of 3509
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjahadi View Post

okay.. I might be sold on this 120hz thing if indeed it makes my video games look better. However, does the tv do 120hz on all inputs, including component? I have the older Xbox360 without the HDMI, and don't plan on changing it out anytime soon. I'd strongly consider the 833 vs the 734 if it improves my gaming experience

Also, with the HD-DVD add on running only 1080i, will 120hz make any difference at all, or do you need to be running 1080p w/ hdmi to really appreciate it?

couple more questions. I've heard that the 833 has a better anti-reflective screen, but I don't seen it anywhere in the spec sheet. Can someone confirm and is it really better? and Lastly, in regards to PIP, can I have two seperate HDMI HD Sources on split screen at once? Some TVs only let you do split screen on one source in conjunction with the integrated tuner. I use a cable box, but still want to do split screen... for example, I want to watch a football game while playing it on Madden at the same time. Will this be possible?

I was just about to pull the trigger on a 734, but then I found a deal on the 833 which is only $500 more. Is it worth it?

Every thing usmcss said is right, and yes , the 833 has a anti glare screen, that works very good (a little better than the 734)with the PIP you can have two HD sources on split screen at once, Just not two HDMI Hd sources at the same time, 120Hz works on all inputs.
Yes, for what you want to used the tv for(gaming and PIP) it's worth $500. more, these are 2 of 3 reasons why we got the 833.
post #360 of 3509
Quote:
Originally Posted by usmcss View Post

It appears that 120 is on all inputs. Does 120 make a difference in gaming; I didn't notice any difference. That doesn't mean there isn't, I just might not have the eye for it. I tried it with Madden 08.

Anti glare is Awesome!!! I don't know if it is better then the 734.

You can't Split Screen two HDMI INPUTS. You stated that you don't have HDMI for your xbox so this would not be an issue for you. You could split screen your xbox (input component) with your cable (input HDMI)

You cannot split screen ether ant. inputs. You also can't split screen if you are viewing a 1080p signal which is stupid.

Hope this helps.

More screen shots attached.

Hmmm... well I'd be interested in what other folks have to say as well. I mean, if most folks can't even see the difference, then that makes me lean towards the 734 based on the PQ being almost identical. The PIP would be nice,but the reality is I might not use it as much as I think I might. So, I'm still not clear if the anti-glare screen is the same on both. If so, then I'm starting to think that the 833 might not be worth the $500 price delta that I found, even though the cabinet does look hella cool with the blue lights and glossy black finish!

Oh what a dilema... knowing me, I'll probably end up deciding to get the higher end model anyway, just to have a comfort level knowing that I bought the best one they make.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Rear Projection Units
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Rear Projection Units › Official Mitsubishi WD XX833 Owners Thread