Official Mitsubishi WD XX833 Owners Thread - Page 113

My guess would be 33. I sent Mitsubishi an email and they called my back to tell me what the error code meant. In my case the code was 32 and this signified that the lamp door was open. You should probably just call them to ask about your code.

If you are referring to the upgrade to Firmware version 9.03 then the answer is yes. 9.03 fixes a problem associated with the xx833 series accepting 3D signals thru the Mitz adaptor.

replaced lamp in my WD57833 last night with the correct part number.
Like expected - brand new TV... Picture is bright again and all is well. Lamp came in a new housing so plug and play.

However, for a few hours while it was on in the evening and the half hour this morning, you can smell the distinct smell of Ozone or whatever.

I figured it would go away, how long should this last? I cleaned a bit of the dust and cat hair that accumulated on the back vent.

Probably just being overly cautious since I would imagine the TV gets tested new at the factory for a few hours before boxing up and shipping out? And that is why there wasn't a noticable smell of new lamp!?!

Please advise.

It will go away in a few days. I replaced the lamp in 73833 a few months ago and the smell went away.

Great -

I was hoping it wasn't something dumb like not pushing it all the way in for the connection and the Ballast burning up the Light engine.... I will check it again tonight just to be sure I don't burn the house down!

Looks like my 57833 is needing another light engine 2nd one now, this time around i have stuck mirrors getting worse by the day. i bought a 5 year warranty with service net. called them, tech said LE was bad. got a call from service net yesterday saying they were not gonna install another LE. and another person would call offering me options. I'm still wondering what that means... mits no longer makes 57's do they. anybody else dealt with service net and there "options". TIA

I hope you guys have better luck than I did. I replaced my lamp about 6 months ago with what was supposed to be OEM equipment, it had a housing etc. But just started getting the solid red light and no picture. Luckily I had saved the old original lamp and have it installed and working while I wait for Mitz to send me a true Mitz part. I guess I didn't really save $100 bucks by getting one from a discount online source!!!! Oh well live and learn???? I did a comparison of the two lamps and housings and the bad one was missing the glass window in front of the lamp and the houseing had a chip in it where they opened it to replace the bulb...

Well got my call from service net today, gotta say I'm pretty pissed. when i bought this warranty i was told that if the tv failed 3 times i would given a like tv or refunded full purchase price. I bought a 5 year warranty for $449.99, the tv has had 1 light engine replaced (and now needs another has stuck mirror's) and now not only is my TV not being fixed or replaced, but they say the only thing i am entitled to is $500.... Never again will i buy a Service net solutions warranty. Any body know if theirs anything i can do? feeling pretty ripped off right now.

I think I'm gonna do what you have suggested, I've seen other people on here get help for this problem, worth a try i guess.

I know I am quoting an ancient post. But the search didn't yield any answers (and I'm not about to read all of the pages since then). Was this resolved at all? My fan has DEFINITELY gotten louder. It even gets louder as the tv is turned on longer. It has gotten to the point that I can't stand it anymore and I need to get it replaced. I'm hoping I might be able to do it myself as the set is definitely out of warranty (3+ years old and I didn't buy an extended warranty).

My experience, exactly. Lately, I can hear the fan as
soon as I turn the TV on, which wasn't the case until
a few weeks ago. From time to time, I can even hear
it over music or movie audio.

However, my case is a bit more complicated... As soon
as I got my WD72833 (about 3 years ago) I added a
foam 'chimney' to the back of the set (to quiet the fan
down) and mounted an extra 120mm fan inside that
chimney (to counteract the chimney airflow resistance
and maybe assist a bit in cooling). This completely
eliminated fan noise (though I could still hear it, faintly,
in the dead of night, with nothing playing).

So now, I am not sure which of the two fans has
become louder; could be both. As soon as tax season is
over (taxes come before pleasure), I plan to pull the TV
from the system, take both fans out and see which is the
culprit. Or maybe just replace both -- I reckon they've
accumulated about 4000 hours of operation, not to
mention the cost will be minimal.

-- Ron

I did some research last night. There are three fans internal to the TV. I have determined that the fan that is making noise for me is one of the two near the bulb. Unfortunately, I can only find one of them in stock, and both are roughly $50. I don't really want to buy $100 worth of fans if I only need to replace one, but I'm not sure if I can determine which is the culprit any other way. I'll take a closer look tonight if I have a chance.

These companies don't make their own fans. Look at the actual fan and do an internet search on the part numbers on the fan. Test the fan with a voltage source, probably 12v, to see if it works. Black neg, Red pos. Use a nine volt battery if you can't find anything else.

The noisy fan in mine is the exhaust fan (actually, it's
more like 'whine' than 'noise'). Size looks like 80mm,
though I'll have to take it out to be sure.

I suspect you can locate a replacement going by specs
(voltage, current, airflow and, of course, physical size)
that can be found by searching on the web for the fan
manufacturer (not mitsubishi) and their P/N. In general,
sleeve bearing fans are cheaper and quieter (though
have shorter life) than ball bearing fans. The two fans
use different connectors, but the fan itself could be
the same. I doubt the cost will be even close to $50 if
bought on the open market, as you'll save the hefty
Mitsubishi markup, but you may have to use the
connector from the old fan. No big deal if you can
solder.

Good luck,

-- Ron

Mine is definitely not the DMD fan, but either the exhaust fan or the ballast fan. The noise is like a low-pitched hum (though that isn't really accurate, it's just hard to explain). The part number for the exhaust fan is 299P310020 and the part number for the ballast fan is 299P321010. I found a few sites that carry them (but this site carries all of the fans, though they cost a touch more):

http://www.encompassparts.com/

The exhaust fan will be $55 from there and the ballast fan is about $40. Now, I could certainly take the tv apart and check each fan individually, but it is a hassle to get to them and I would probably just spend the money to buy both fans and replace both when I'm in there to save my time.

The only thing I find odd is that the fans are basically inaudible when the tv is first turned on. It is only after a few hours of watching that the hum is present. I probably should check on my bulb too, as it is likely about due for a replacement and it might be easier to take care of all of this at the same time...

Once you get the fans out, please post the fan manufacturer
and their P/N, exactly as it appears on the fans. I'll really
appreciate the info as, I'm sure, will others.

-- Ron

I probably wont order fans until this weekend. Once I have them, I'll take the whole set apart and grab as many photos as I can. Hopefully that'll help anyone that has a similar problem.

Can someone help me out and tell me when the last firmware update was and how to get it for the wd-65833? I'm selling it to my bro-in-law and I'd like it to be updated b4 then. Thanx...

White "dots" have started appearing on my 65833 purchased in 2008. First there was one now there are two. They don't move but are in fixed positions and are especially visible in darker scenes. Does anyone the cause or better yet the cure?

I've googled my brains out, and really can't find anything even remotely related to an answer...

For those of you using DLP link glasses, what distance are you getting out of them?

I bought the RealD CE5 glasses, but they are completely worthless beyond 8ft. I lose sync at least every 5 minutes if not less with most 3D movies. I believe I know why, and it has to do with the sensor showing some kind of distortion that I can notice under light. Seeing as how these operate on light, I imagine if something is causing the spectrum to bend and shift, then the glasses will not know what to do and simply fail. Would perhaps explain the entire picture being saturated in various colors (usually green, yellow, red, pink) just before losing sync. I figure a little more understanding on what others are getting for distance will help.


I wrote to RealD last Monday (3/14) and they responded almost immediately, but have failed to respond ever since despite 3 emails sent since that evening. Also posted on the crystaleye5 thread in the 3D section but getting help there also feels like pulling teeth.

Just want to be sure that if I have to get an RMA on the glasses, I do it as soon as possible. As it stands, I wanted to get another pair of these if it works out because the picture is incredible in comparison to the IR glasses from the 3D kit (blacks are black again, better colors, crisp sharper image), but the lack of response from RealD is troubling, and 8ft viewing distance on my 73833 is unacceptable. I may look to UltraClears, but first things first^^; What's your DLP glasses viewing distance on your xx833?

So did you finally get a resolution on this? My 3yr old 73833 is showing the same intermittent flickering problem. Seems like it'll be bad all night no matter what I do, then the next night it'll be fine. It's still under the extended Mack warranty. Any tips on things to help the service tech?

That's the light engine. I hope you have an extended warranty.

Speaking of light engines. I too noticed today, a white dot in the upper left quadrant of my picture. I called Best Buy to schedule a service (EW). During our conversation he wanted an approximation of the size of the white spot. I went up close to the TV and while talking, a light colored scene came on. I literally yelled "Holy Crap!" there were dozens of black dead spots all over the screen. He ordered a light engine and scheduled an install on the 31st. I'm not sure if it started before today but I don't think so.

This is my second replacement LE and my third strike. I need one more strike before October to "Lemon" the set. My luck it won't do it until after October.

Uploaded two image pics. I lowered the res but it's clear what the problem is.

WD-65833

Ok.. maybe I'm having a similar problem but I originally thought it was my Denon 4308. After I updated my firmware to 9.03, I started losing HDMI sync. I have my PS3 connected via HDMI and my U-Verse box connected via component to Denon 4308. I then have Denon connected to Mits 73833 via HDMI. After system is on for about 15 minutes or so, I'd lose picture. Sometimes it would just go to a blue screen and sometimes it would also be a garbled green screen. It happens with both PS3 and U-Verse, so I know it's not them. I also turned off the CEC command in the Denon and that doesn't help. I've tried swapping out HDMI cables and well as use different HDMI ports in the back to no avail. The timing of my problem seems to be after I updated to 9.03 as well as changed my bulb. I'll have to see if I get a flashing error light after it happens.

The light engine is on back order. Not sure yet how long the delay or if it being delayed for an extended period causes a lemon situation. A Geek Squad tech visited on the day that was scheduled for the install but had no part. He confirmed the situation. Nice that Best Buy didn't notify me of no part ahead of his early morning call to time the visit. As of today I now have about 6 white hot spots and many many back dead spots.

To quote Robert Heron, "DLP is bullet proof." Not so much Robert.

Hi, this is my first post/question so please pardon any errors.

I have a Mits WD-73833 and when I connect my Vaio Notebook to it via HDMI, the screen resolution on the TV doesn't fix exactly to the TV. The windows desktop gets cut from all sides (meaning that the desktop is somwhoard bigger than the TV screen and it gets cut off on all sides).

By default it switches to 1366x768 resolution (doesnt get greater than this) and if I try to go lower res like 12x7 it doesn't fix the problem.

Any suggestions?

Thanks again,
Mahesh

Pretty much all DLPs have overscan. Usually around 5%. The resolution for the TV should 1920x1080. If you have NVIDIA, the drivers allow you to size the screen. Don't know about any Intel utilities.

I'm guessing that 1920x1080 will possibly extend even more than what it is right now. Anyway, I will give it a shot. Thanks again.

-Mahesh