Originally Posted by
KBK 
I have made the situation a bit murky. What I was speaking of was TWO different boards, but did not make that clear. I was speaking of the control board, which from looking from the back of a marquee chassis is on the left. It is the one with the diagnostic lights. Similar attacks should be mounted on the VIM, or input module, re the 15volt rails.
There is a entire run of circuitry on that board that runs at the 5 volt level. Lotsa logic circuitry. These chips need to have their .1uf ceramic caps removed, and swapped out with something like the following: Kemet brand, 47uf 6.3volt tantalum caps. The leads will have to be bent, and then cut, and then mounted on the solder pads. The cap is T350F476K006AS17301. There is also a run of OP-AMPS on this board as well. Some higher voltage rails are used. The buffer caps (two for each chip amp) of each rail should be swapped out to be Kemet brand 16 volt 22uf caps, or higher value. Maybe 33uf tantalum caps. They should be mounted in the same way. Same series of caps from Kemet, but 16 volt rated. Anything bigger and you raise the ghost of unreliability. Anything lower in value, and you lower the effectiveness of the modification.
I have suffered NO failures or odd behavior. This modification of the control board brings about a huge increase in the stability of the line drawing and drops the noise floor as a consequence, due to the fact that lines are being drawn in their proper spots, and therefore this equates to alignment, which is gun-to-gun alignment (overlay) which directly can be equated to maximum contrast range, or video S/N ratio. The effect this circuit has on damaging the rest of the PJ's dealing with the quality of power in the -/+ 15 volt rails is quite critical as well. When you run at 1920x1200 at 72hz like I do (simply a very high scanning number, well over a 2X multiple of the original DVD transfer, and nearly a perfect multiple of the original HD master the DVD transfer was created with), to get the BEST DVD overlay possible; these modifications, and the clairity they bring to the PJ are CRITICAL.
Fixing this at the chips involved, stops them from polluting the rest of the parts that use these rails, and gives them greater stability as well. So, the effect is doubled, in a way. Of course, those voltage rails would be corrected as well, (all other boards and circuitry) right at the parts involved, on their specific boards in question.
Video S/N ratio is what it's all about. Achieving that is what brings you closer to film. The PJ only has so much light output that it can dish out in a linear fashion. Dropping the noise floor has the same effect as increasing the overall output capacity of the PJ,whilst bringing every aspect of that Video S/N range and signal capacity to a more linear and perfectly represented level. This brings about tremendous stabiltiy to the image, and makes the experience considerably more 3-d like, and film like.
If you can't increase the output of the PJ, drop the noise floor, and linearize the behavoir of every gradation of a signal inbetween those two points. MASSIVE improvement in image quality is fully assured. A greater RANGE of signals can then be properly presented. Subjective analysis of content (DVD, HD, etc) can then take place. For instance, films like Dark City, look fantastic. You get the Video S/N ratio right where you need it, at the bottom of the range. (besides everything above that!)
Basically, HD mastering suites wish they had the image qualites that I have to suffer through enjoying. I don't care if they are using a G90, Barco Cimemax, or whatever, they ain't getting the image I am, period.
I did this and more to a ECP 4100 chassis, in an extreme way, about 1.5-2 years ago now. The ECP ROCKED. It TRASHED am mint condtion NEC GP-5000 in image fidelity. And the GP-5000 is a 9" tubed Liquid Coupled unit, with HD-10 lenses.
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Ken Hotte
![Atlas Shrugged: Part One [Blu-ray]](http://cdn.avsforum.com/1/11/50x50px-ZC-11e52775_B005N4DMMG-51bYbLn2yWL.jpeg)
Yea I've put a lot of hours on these pics. I take about 10 pics of each shot and pick the best one. I use manual setting. I had to change light aperture (F-Stop #'s) and white balance constantly in order to capture the image as close as possible. All the rest of settings were programmed for taking this kind of shots so they are good.
