new marantz sr7002, sr8002 receivers - Page 167

Hi all, my SR7002 lost all its sound connecting directly. It still has power and respond to remote control. I tried to setup speaker to hear test-tone but not a single speaker out have sound.

First I was using an external amp and I noticed that FR is not working so I took it out of my shelf and test all speaker out without the external.

Any idea?

Hi,

Just heard back from the service centre who have tested my sr8002 and say it work perfectly fine with no issues which is good but what could be causing my issue.

I am using it with orbs (6 ohm) mod2 setup

mod4 - centre
mod2 - the rest

with the following speaker cable.

speaker cable: Van Damme Professional Hi-Fi Series 2.5mm
http://www.van-damme.com/_pdf/28%20U...r%20series.pdf

does speaker length make a difference i.e. my left channel cable length is less than a meter while the rest above few meters?

I check the speaker polarity to make sure they are all correct, I will check it again? could a loose cable cause the issue?

this is unrelated but how does the SR8002 compare to the newer SR6006 or SR7005 in terms of sound quality they use new 32bit analogue shark DSP? they also have the better version of audyessy mic?

a5ian300zx

I doubt that a difference in the length of speaker wire would cause this problem.

What firmware is you 8002 running? Since it's at the factory, maybe they could update to the latest firmware and see what happens when you get the unit back home.

I have had my 7002 for years and about a year or two ago i started getting sporadic issues with the center channel audio not outputting from the speaker. I noticed turning up the receiver i would hear it kick in and then turning down the volume it would work. It is very sporadic and hard to tell if it is the speaker or amp. Well over the weekend the same thing happened to my right speaker. Is it safe to assume my SR7002 is at fault and to service it? I want this fixed.

I've had that happen a few times over the last umm 30 yrs. I used to get it fixed but the fix never lasted more than a few months. I just get a new one now.
It's like a car battery that has gone bad. It's not coming back.

I mean sure if you can get someone to replace the entire board(s) but I wouldn't waste my out of warranty money on a repair.

Just my experience. I'm sure others have had different.

Thanks, can anyone else confirm the same thing or the cost of the fix as i will need wife's approval to buy new, which i would rather not do, but it sounds like the cost effective choice.

Repair is likely to cost from $200+ and if it's an HDMI board issue, that can go for $300+ just for the board itself with labor rates generally $70-$90/hr. Generally if repair costs more than 50% of the replacement cost, it's better to just replace it, so start looking for a replacement and go from there based on its cost.

I have a question about the SR7002.
I used to have directv but I don't anymore. I just get digital channels over the air. I want to know if sr7002 has a built in tv tuner. (I don't think it does but decided to ask). Right now, my coaxial cable from my antenna bypasses the sr7002 and goes directly into the Samsung tv which has a built in tv tuner. Is there a way I can hook up my coaxial cable antenna into my sr7002 and tune my channels through the receiver?
My second question is: is there a DVr available on the market that I can use to record off the air broadcasts of network tv shows? I don't want to pay monthly subscriptions to TiVo or any other service. I just want to record some shows and watch them later. If I you can tell me how I can hook up a DVr to the sr7002, that would be great. I don't want to pay monthly sub fees for any service (cable, directv, TiVo etc) I hope that there are some 3rd party DVRs that can accomplish what I want. Thank you in advance.

1. AVRs do not feature TV tuners.
2. Another option is to buy a TV Tuner card for a laptop and use its built in software to save your TV programs to either the laptop or external hard driver.

If you don't want to setup a laptop or PC to record OTA HD programs, you could use the Channel Master DVR: http://www.channelmasterstore.com/HD_DVR_receiver_for_antenna_p/cm-7000pal.htm

Not cheap but it seems simple to use.

A "slow blink" protection mode fault normally means a ventilation issue so confirm there is sufficient clearance around the unit. Also try bypassing the surge protector as a test. Amex will generally only add 1 year to the mfr's 3 year warranty so as long as you're still inside that 4 year window, certainly worth pursuing.

Unit has always been on shelf, ventilated rack above it with USB powered Coolermaster Fan pulling air above it...not like I didn't try to think of everything. The USB Fan was plugged into an Apple Socket adapter and plugged into the AVR's power when on plug, so it only turned on when the unit was on...I thought it was slick anyway. You can see my pictures from several years ago. I already disconnected everything and took it out of stack, plugged directly into another socket...no gives.

Yeah, I looked up the Amex thing, I'm past that by a year.

I loved its sound, can't quite get this Denon dialed in so not sure I"m going to keep it.

Update: I took the unit apart, there is a fuse at the bottom. Had to disconnect the XM and RS232 port to get to it...but it was good, so strike 2. Anyone know of any obvious things to look at? I ripped my finger open so I've got blood in it now. I'll either fix it or go Office Space on it.

When they said this was old school...they meant it. I'm a layman...but no way should these monsters be shipped air freight..I can see what that repair guy was saying about solder connections breaking...there are a lot of heavy looking parts hanging off vertical boards...all kinds of Caps and multitudes of boards...and its heavy.

Any other suggestions?
Edited by dmcdayton - 4/1/13 at 3:39pm

Sounds like repair is your only option then. If you want help with "dialing in" the 1613, join us in the Denon 2012 Owner's thread linked in my sig for more assistance.

My 7002 only recently had its 5th birthday and lo & behold... it died.

In my case it was the standby rapid blink of death.
Tried various power cycles (i.e. full off at the wall for 30 min) and each time I try and reset it it springs to life for about 2 sec only to die the same way.

So I got hold of some info & schematics and one of the things it suggests very early in the fault tree is to check the various DC rails.
No great surprise there.
All the fuses looked good - and as has already been noted, this is one check-full-o-cards mother of a brick!
Quality of construction seems ok (quite decent for consumer gear), with all the heavier bits supported one way or the other, and all cables tied off. Does make it a mungrel to get into however...

Once I'd worked out where things were I poked around and began to realise the +15VDC rail was not a happy chap.
Keep in mind it's necessary to do a 3 button reset to actually force the secondary DC stages to spring into life, and they then shut down 2 sec later, so testing of a fairly basic DC rail fault is actually a bit difficult.

I confirmed the 3 terminal +15V regulator is shot, so I'm currently looking for the part, as it's current output is spec'd a bit higher than your average device.
Pulling out the power stages is not as bad as it first seems as they are all installed on a common rail/heat-sink, which lifts out after I think 4 screws. The trick is carefully unplgging all the cables which go over & into it first - without losing track of what goes where.

I'll let you know if this proves to be it.

After poking around inside, would you ship this kind of construction air freight?

I'd want some assurance it was being handled better than your average piece of airline luggage, that's for sure.

Personally I'd be shipping it "sensitive" road freight, if that's an option.

Way back when I had a firmware update performed, I was lucky enough that my local dealer made regular trips to the nearest Marantz facility themselves so it has essentially always been hand carried since I bought it.
Having said that, it did survive the original sea journey from China quite happily intact.

Well... that was fun...
I've managed to bring my SR7002 back to life!

After getting hold of a complete set of schematics, I found the culprit was a missing DC rail on the regulator board.
One of the +21V rails had disappeared due to an open circuit resistor (R903) which is essentially a fuse for the +21V rail.
The best I can determine the +15V regulator (IC93) crapped itself and took out the "fuse". About $3 for these two parts and all is well.

Apart from the +15V rail, the only other tasks for the +21V rail is to allow 8 separate relays to pull in (RY61-68, 81 & 82) - which enables full +/-Vcc through to the amplifier board, and allows all the speaker outputs to be switched through after the power up time-out.

Glad it was a relatively straight forward DC supply issue. That's one complex box full of cards. The HDMI board alone requires 4 pages of schematics.
Despite the complexities of all the cabling, the regulator board is one of the easier to access and repair.

I hope this may give hope to others experiencing the standby led rapid flash of death.

Curiously, where did you find a full set of schematics?

Schematics are part of the Service Manual package, it is a 200 page PDF file available to authorized Service Centers.

Just my $0.02.... 👍😉

Denon Service Manuals are available from the various Denon authorized parts distributors. Give Marantz a call on Monday as the service manual may be available for direct purchase.

http://us.marantz.com/us/Support/Pages/PartsAccessories.aspx

If you have difficulties obtaining a service manual through Marantz (depending on the country, some are more hesitant to send them out to non-service agents), the are quite a few online options - some "free", most charging a few dollars.