*Official* Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 1080 *UB* - Page 104

I cant get the aspect ratio to change off of normal I want to switch to zoom 16:9, I have a OPPO bdp83 and a Denon 3311 receiver. The aspect ratio is locked out. I am sure it is a setting on either the Denon or the Oppo. Thanks for any help.

John

Had the same problem with mine. Never could figure it out. I had to send it back because of a bad panel. Now the new one is not blacked out.

Mine is not blacked out. It is just set to normal and I can't change it. I am just wondering if the BR is setting the disc properly to 16:9 and I have to use the zoom feature to fill the screen. I am shooting from 11' away onto a 100" screen and the picture is way small. How do I fill the screen?

Looks like it has gone back to grayed out. It seems on PS3 and laptop(hdmi) it is grayed out for me. When my input was Dish box (hdmi) the "Progressive" and "Motion Detection" were selectable. I haven't figured it out yet.

Any idea what motion detection is?

Anyone have any calibration settings to share??

I have an Epson Home Cinema 1080UB currently projecting onto a white wall. The room is very large with massive windows. The windows are covered by floor-to-ceiling blackout shades, but during the day there's still significant light coming in around the side of the shades. At night it's relatively dark in the room.

My budget is between $650-1000, potentially more for the perfect, forever screen. I'd like something with a 150-inch diagonal (the max for the projector).

Right now I'm looking at either the Monoprice 150-inch mechanical screen, or one of the standard brands in the same size. The Monoprice obviously is much cheaper and mechanical, but is a 1.0 gain.

Which screen would you all recommend, or at least, which fabric and how much gain? Thanks in advance for the help.

-Shane

Shane, I have a very similar issue as you - I project on a 2-story wall in the family room. Have you considered window tinting? I got all the windows tinted and it drastically cut down on light. As a side effect, I'm wasting less electricity in the summer on air conditioning. And I got a tax credit, too

I'm experiencing a problem with my 1080UB. Unit has about 1900 hrs on it and the bulb. It is ceiling mounted.

The other day when I turned it on the fans came on full blast and the temp led was blinking red. This happened about 10 seconds after I turned it on. I let it run for a couple minutes and the fans did slow down, but the the temp led continued to blink. No picture.

I then unplugged it and after about 30 seconds plugged it back in. Hit power on the remote and everything was back to normal.

Next day the same thing happened and power cycling it fixed it again.

Does anyone have any suggestions?

Two thoughts.

1. Check the filter. Blow out any dust/dirt in it (shoot it from the inside).

2. I prefer to run in high-altitude mode. This forces the fan to go faster so more air goes through the unit. It's slightly louder, but I get more peace of mind.

Your issue has happened to me once but unplug/replug worked just fine.

For a first few years of use 1080UB picture was great, recently I have an issue with uniformity in my pj, left and right side has green tinting, center is reddish, also upper right corner has some pink. Projector is four years old and it's out of warranty, I was thinking about opening and trying to clean it.

Could someone give me some tips about opening and cleaning panels/polarizer in 1080UB, which cleaning equipment to use/not use, etc ?
Thanks in advance for any help.

It sounds like you may have damage to the LCD somehow. Blocked illumination paths don't usually result in color shifts across the field. Do you think it could have gotten overheated ?

I know Sony SXRD projection products are known for this flaw, but yours is the first case I've heard in connection with an Epson, if that's the problem.

Certainly, cleaning airflow conduits and filter is a good start. I have no advice on a further disassembly, but will be watching the thread to see how you do.


My projector's original bulb is well over 3200 hrs at this time, and needs replacement. I'm still looking to obtain an old burned out lamp module to experiment with an LED replacement I've designed. If my original burns out before I locate one, then I'll use it. I was hoping someone here at the forums might take a minute to send me theirs in hopes we could all benefit later with LED replacements.

Still love my projector, and hope you have some other issue than the one I mentioned because if it is that - it's time for a new projector.

UPDATE:

Re-reading older posts in this thread, I see another member had color shifts with what he thought was "dust". I'm not sure how he made out, but maybe your problem isn't as dire as I thought.
Edited by 50BMG - 6/15/12 at 9:22am

I know this is a old thread and hope I can get some help fast. I have the 1080UB and have loved it for about 4+ years. In my theater, I know I have to adjust the focus every 2-3 movies because my subs shack the room pretty good. But I have noticed the last 2 movies, the picture was in focus in the beginning but out of focus by the end. This has never happened before and I know it isn't the subs.

Is this a known problem? Can it easily be fixed? Please help.

Hi "Harry".

Yeah, it's a long running thread, but that only shows how much we all seem to like this projector.

To your question - It sounds like your projector may be doing the "shake-rattle-and-roll" while you watch content with high sound pressure levels.

I've looked carefully at the photos of your HT on your web page, and have some thoughts.

You've obviously given great attention to your setup there, and I especially note the effort to render excellent sound.

Some immediate feedback to offer is that I've got a "similar" room arrangement in that I too have a THX certified Receiver, Speakers and Sub and have worked to optimize it's sound and video performance. My projection surface is 84" wide and the projector is 140" from it, rigidly ceiling mounted [to the floor joists of the room above] "inverted" in orientation.

We differ in that I'm certain my peak sound pressure levels are at least 10db less than yours, and based on my next questions you may find I place more of a premium on the video performance than you have. Also my viewing area is unbounded on two sides, and the room volume is ~7700 cubic feet [41'x27'x7'] with the premium seating area being an 8 ft wide box 10 ft in front of the screen.

In my setup, I routinely monitor my system's electronic and mechanical "drift" over time. This includes not only the "focus" but the horizontal and vertical positioning of the projector lens' "shift" settings.

I can say unequivocally that it "does not change" mechanically of it's own accord. My raster image is aligned to sub-pixel sized marks I placed on the projection surface for that purpose .

If I do not physically "touch" the projector, it simply does not change.

No change in focus, nor in raster position. However, about a year ago, a 300 lb item fell off a shelf in the room above my HT, putting a huge impulse in the floor which is the ceiling of my HT. On this occasion only, I noticed the shift setting had moved. This is the first and only time since it was installed, and may have been partly due to the manner in which I loosely attached the mounting plate to the ceiling joists. [no longer]

So, on a showing-to-showing basis - my experience is different than yours.

Studying images of your HT, I see that the projector is not "mounted", but appears rather to be sitting on the floor of a cubby-hole in the vertial surface of an overhead beam.

• Is that correct? Is it just resting on it's rubber feet?
• How strong / rigid is the structure it's in? When performing SUB-Woofer level checks, have you touched this structure to see if it is effected? Perhaps it's resonating.
• Can you see any image disturbance [viewing a test pattern] while a troublesome movie / scene is playing?

I guess my suspicion is that you may have inadvertently created a situation where the projector is effected by your room's sound.

Having been so careful and meticulous with the optical alignment of my projector to the screen has given me a unique appreciation of just how stable it is. I have taken care to assure the field of pixels is as close to rectangular as I can measure, and the system delivers this better than I could have imagined possible. This was done by assuring the projection line was precisely perpendicular to the screen. Doing this makes all pixels at all extremes of the image, at maximum focus at the same time. Then use the "shift" to position the image on the screen vertically and horizontally.

Also, I do not change the projector's zoom. It leave it alone. I have noticed there is an interaction between focus and zoom in this lens. **

Does any of that help you think your problem through?

The projector shelf of built onto the ceiling joists. So it is fairly solid. When building the room, I should not have attached the back riser to the walls so the back subwoofers would have been more isolated from the walls and ceiling.

In the Beginning, I just had the projector sitting on it's shelf. When I first finished building my subwoofers a year and a half ago, I watch Terminator Salvation. The scene where the Harvester grabs the old lady and stomps around. After about 30sec of this scene, the picture had shifted to the floor of my theater. lol

After that, I have 3/4" foam under the projector and it is no longer a problem. But like I said, every 2-3 movies, I have to fix the focus which is no big deal. But, the last 2 movies I have seen, at "normal" volumes, it was out of focus before the end of the movie. Could something be loose inside the 1080UB? Maybe I'll try to find some thicker foam but I am really worried it might be the projector.

Ok, I take that whole response as a confirmation. The fact that placing it on foam helped, tells me we're on the correct track here. Motion bad enough to de-throne the projector is too much.

My suggestion would be to re-design the projector support so that it is not vibrating at all, rather than just dampening it out.

Some things to consider:

1) Develop a test of the mount. Your hand would be fine. Another item on the projector shelf [to fall off] would be a good indicator too. A glass of fluid you can watch vibrate.
2) See if you can come up with an arrangement that doesn't set off your detector.
3) You could try putting an "Inertia Mass" on top of the foam, but under the projector. This would be a heavy shelf, perhaps 1" thick seel plate or stone [maybe a marble fragment] to set the projector on. The idea is not to totally crush the foam, but use sufficient mass that damps projector's motion. Be carefull to route the electronic lines to the projector so they don't impair the dampening effect or transmit vibration of their own.

You might consider a safety tether or retainer to prevent anything hitting the floor if all else fails.

Frankly it would be better to try mounting the projector to something that doesn't move. How about the floor? Is this a concrete floor? Would it be totally bad to try out a pedestal mount where the support comes from beneath?

Of course you'd need to test that too. But it seems like the vibration is what you need to attack here.


Try this - set your system to adjust the Sub-woofer levels, and with the test tone being sent - use your hand to determine how bad the situation is. Feel around the entire support structure. Is there some place it stops?

One last thought - de-focusing may be the least of the effects here. Vibration that intense could damage the device itself and fracture bulb filaments.

This is potentially more than just an annoyance.

More Thoughts...

• What's on the back wall behind the projector?
• Any chance you could move it back further and mount it on a wall that doesn't move?

I only see what appears to be a curtain in the photos.

• Can you share a floor plan of the area to help me out here?
• Is that an air duct above the projector?
• Are the rear Subs mechanically isolated from the floor and walls?
• Is this entire chamber sealed, or is there an open path to the outside somewhere?
• The rear seats are on a platform... is it vented to the outside or at all? (Does it have a resonance of it's own?)
• You said the projector support is from the joists... is that "surround" sheet rocked to that support? This might be one point of re-engineering - isolate the surfacing material from the substructure. It's pointless if the other ceiling surface isn't isolated too - the Joists themselves are probably vibrating.

I'm betting you have "conducted" vibration here, not just "Air Pressure". Can you think of a simple way to verify this?
Edited by 50BMG - 6/24/12 at 8:11pm

Just thought of this... You said you placed the projector on foam...

Be absolutely certain you don't block the air inlet on the bottom of the projector. Major meltdown risk.

There are several Epson 1080 Projector threads talking about Lamp issues here at AVS Forum, but I'm posting to this one because it's where I've discussed it before.

Since buying the projector, I've been on the lookout for low prices on the ELPLP39 / V13H010L39 lamp unit. The original pricing of ~$400 was too far out for me to jump at. However, recently I saw this SALE on them for $74 plus shipping, and decided it was never going to get any better.

The vendor confirmed shipment of my order earlier today, so I'll have it in my hands by next week. I'll review it here as soon as it arrives, in case anyone else is interested.


I don't know how long the "Sale" will last, and can't yet comment on the quality of the product offered. The description is quite clear that "This lamp is sold with Module and Housing INCLUDED". I apologize in advance if it's a mistake, and any of you fall into the same trap because of this post, but I had to share the opportunity with the community here.

Good luck to us all. Updates to follow...

Thanks for the post! Please do keep us updated

If you find it's a decent replacement I'll be ordering one. That's a great price.

Careful with pureglare/mwave. Check out some posts first, to be sure this is what/where you want to buy from. EG. http://www.avsforum.com/t/1224781/anyone-tried-pureglare-replacement-lamps

My 4 y/o 1080UB is now on it's third OEM lamp, and I always get around 3000 trouble free hours from those so I refuse to use anything else.

 

They can be found for $190 , UPS shipping included, from http://www.projectorlampsource.com/  guaranteed lowest price, 150 day warranty.

 

Move quick if you want one, 6 in stock as of this morning.....

 

http://www.projectorlampsource.com/epson_home_cinema_1080ub_lamp.html

 

They even have a Canadian outlet (same price, free UPS shipping, no import duty/tax or brokerage fee)

http://www.projectorlampsource.ca/epson_home_cinema_1080ub_projector_bulb.html

 

 

 

Prometheus Bluray on my 4 year old $250 motorized 120" 1.3 gain ebay screen,

Epson 1080UB in calibrated Natural mode (courtesy stereomandan)

 

 

Madagascar-3

 

Edited by PioManiac - 11/2/12 at 5:29pm

is this exceptionally cheap,good time to buy? I'm only half way through my current lamp

Checked just now, price is ELPLP39 $321.22.

UPDATE: A little confusing, since the V13H010L39 [same lamp] comes out at the price you quoted (?)

About the ELPLP39 purchase mentioned in my earlier post...

Sorry, I meant to update this already but have been distracted by local events.

2 Lamp modules were delivered as promised. While they look about right, I need to pull the original to do a side-by-side comparison and a test. [hopefully later tonight]

I'll update you again when that happens, but at this moment I can report that they are indeed complete modules [not just bulbs], that the Part number is as advertised, and that they were shipped in appropriately padded and labeled manufacturer's boxes, not simply wrapped in foam and stuffed in a shipper. They appear to be new, not refurbished.

UPDATE:

Well, I like it.

• Fit was exact
• Comparison with the original makes me think they came from the same mould [except for the EPSON logo]
• I see no markings on the back of the bulb itself, unlike the original which has Epson markings and other nomenclature
• When installed, Lamp brightness increased so that on LOW it was brighter than the old one (@4000hrs) on HIGH (at least before I reset the hours)
• Color temps look good

Suffice it to say, I'm satisfied for the price if it lasts a couple years. And now I have two spares, one with 4000 hrs on it and another with none.

Guess I can start experimenting with my LED based module now. Seems a shame to remove a bulb that hasn't gone dead yet, but then I feel fortunate not to have had an explosion since "Replace The Lamp" has been displayed for the last 2400 hrs.

BTW - You should know that my projector is a 1080 model (1200 Lumens), not the 1080 UB model (1600 Lumens)
Edited by 50BMG - 11/8/12 at 6:45am

I've replaced my bulb for the first time yesterday and after installing I reset the lamp counter. I've been using it for around 6 hours since but the Info box in the menu still shows 0H
Does anyone know what could be wrong?

I might be wrong, but I believe there's a minimum number of hours (like 10 or so) before it updates. Can't recall exactly, but pretty certain it's not immediate. Someone else here may know better.

Strange. Would there be a reason for that?

Mine doesn't do that - it registers hour by hour.

I'll see if there's a way to report my projector's firmware revision and post it here, first chance I get. New Lamp is still AOK - BTW.

I believe it's only for the first 10 hours of a new lamp that it shows 0H. After that it will count hour by hour. I think it's to allow the factory or a dealer to check out the projector for an hour or so, and still show the projector as having zero hours on the bulb.