Sharp Aquos D64U Calibrations and Settings - Page 21

Been awhile since I posted in here. I did a search for this question and nothing came up; has anyone had a problem where their TV's backlight goes bright than gets dimmer. Its like a slow flicker. Its weird . It just started this week. Anyone have and suggestions on how to fix this?

Probably Contrast. These sets can pump out quite a bit of light before they begin to clip. My settings are more for a near-dark room.

pistol, do you have the opc on? that usually changes the backlight setting by itself. if so turn it off.

No Its off..... Remember somene else had a problem with this a long time ago, but I can't locate the post. I tried turning it on than off and nothing. I'm gonna try and put a different hdmi cable tonight to see what happens.

Is there a thread for the 32 & 37 D64U?

Id also like to know if these are any good for the 37d64u

I've tried to read through this thread to pull as much info out before asking any questions, but here they go:

I have a 46D64U hooked up via HDMI to a HD-DVR cable box, a upconversion DVD player (actually part of a HTIB), and an XBox 360. Should I use different settings for the XBox 360 than the cable box and DVD player? I've currently using Sam S's settings and they seem to look pretty good. There are pre-sets for Movie, Game, Dynamic, etc but I'm not sure if the "Game" setting is the best one or not versus Sam's.

Another thing I'm worried about is getting sound from the XBox to my HTIB. I'm going to have a coaxial digital audio cable going from my HD-DVR to my HTIB directly, but am unsure how to get the XBox audio there. Should I use Red/White audio cables from the TV to the receiver and just not have Dolby Digital (as I've heard it does not pass through Dolby). Any recommendations? Thanks.

#1: The only way to have different settings for each input is to change the user settings for each input. If you change the Movie setting while using the Xbox, then change the movie setting for the STB the latest change is what the TV holds. But with the user setting, the TV will keep a user setting for each input. So technically if you want to really optimize the system then the user setting is where it's at. But I've noticed that no matter what I do, the movie setting has better contrast ratio, that I can't match on the user setting no matter what I do.

#2: The only reliable way to get Dolby from the Xbox is to use the $30 adapter that they sell which has a toslink connection. I use it and it works well.

looking for info on the Sharp C.M.S. from a calibration perspective. is the CMS Saturation and Hue for adjusting the Primaries and Secondaries according to CIE Graph? And how does it work exactly. I've use a CMS that you can adjust the R G B for every Primary and Secondary to make it accurate (Like on the CMS for Samsungs) but this one has only Saturation and Hue for Each Primary and Secondary, it seems a little strange to only adjust the color using the color itself. I will probably try using my light meter on this set and see if I can adjust the colors accurately.

I am another noob to the forums. I have the 46D64U. The picture is good though I think sometimes to grainy compared to the similar Samsung model. I have tried a few different settings I have seen in this thread, though none that look the greatest so far. Still working through the many pages.

Where is this "movie" mode? I dont see it in any of the menus.

Thanks

On the remote there is that little door on the bottom that flips open, the av mode is under there, that changes what av mode the current input is associated with. If you go into the menu, you can cycle through the av modes while setting up the picture as well if you want to.

The issue with the grainy picture may be caused by the sharpness being set too high. I've noticed that if it is set to above +5 or +6 the "graininess" of the picture jumps up as well as the edge enhancement, to a point that is too much.

Thanks... its so simple.

One other question. What do the latest firmware updates fix? I saw them on Sharps website, but I dont see any explanation as to what they improve or fix.

Sharp will say if you don't have any issues, you don't have anything to fix, so then you don't need the firmware update. But I updated mine anyway and haven't noticed any issues, nor real improvements.

You are correct with you assessment on how the CMS Sat and Hue work on this set. Saturation doesn't provide enough range to accurately adjust the primaries. See my post here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...5#post14709205

Hi Sam,

Did you happen to notice how Hue and Saturation affected your point on the graph. I am making the assumption that Saturation will move your point up and down (or closer to white and further away from white) where hue will move it left or right (similar to a color wheel, it will move toward one primary or the other.) which means your point should be accurate as possible to the CIE chart but I noticed there is no value for luminance which means you Y value could be way off regardless since you can't manually adjust it for each color value.

shrabok,


I expected Saturation to move the points further away from white, and they did to an extent. Even at the max +30 range, they were still not able to hit the correct points when needed. Hue pulls the points slightly as you described, I guess this control works like it should.

I don't have a display that can adjust individual primary and secondary luminance, so I'm not very well versed on how those controls actually would shift the primary/secondary points on the CIE graph.

i am getting dizzy. i read a ton of pages on the Official Sharp Aquos LC-42D64U/LC-46D64U/LC-52D64U Owner's Thread which lead me to this one via tigers and balloos settings. i read through a few pages of this one and well im just looking for the best settings i can get. those settings were a year ago. i just bought the aquos LC-52D64U and was wondering since i just bought the 52 one month ago have the settings been perfected?

if not/so, are there any more recent and updated settings to try or should i try tigers/baloos settings from a year ago?

i searched both the threads but there are so many suggestions. i am just looking for the best updated possible settings to try.

Do you want an accurate picture or something "vivid" or with "pop"? If it is the latter, just start in Vivid mode and adjust to taste.

If you want accuracy, use my settings as link a couple of posts up. They are measured as the most accurate on a CIE Color Gamut. If anyone thinks their settings are more accurate, please post them and associated CIE charts.

Sam S thanks for that. I didnt read the last few pages of this thread so i did not see that link to your settings. I am about dead tired of reading for today haha.

my room is fairly lit and i do preffer accuracy. i will try yours and adjust backlight, contrast and brightness to my liking.

i suppose your settings will be good no matter that you did those tests with a 42' while my tv is 52'?

thanks mang

Don't touch Brightness!! Only adjust Contrast and/or backlight if you need more light output from the screen. Yes, settings for 42 will work fine on the 52.

Calibration Settings for 52" D64U model (LC52D64U):

Correct settings in post #625 (below). Sorry there were errors/omissions in this post...

Hey Sam,

Thanks for all the info. I've noticed some displays even with CMS's still cant reach proper levels that they offer. This D64U is a friends and I've been reading about it, but I will have to sit down with my meter and see what I can accomplish with out entering the service menu. I will try to post my settings and results after I give it a try this weekend. I'll be using my AVSHD 709 disk for the first time on the blu-ray and I will also be using the Getgray disk on their Bose DVD system. I'm hoping I can come back with some good results for everyone to try. None the less being that everyones setup is different things could be quite off from one system to the next.

I would be interested in hearing about your findings. I also used GetGray and AVSHD 709 for my calibration.

I bought my Sharp 52D64U at Christmas and have been enjoying it every day. The display quality is beautiful and absolutely perfect with no banding issues or any other problems. I've been playing with the settings to get it just to my satisfaction, and here's what I'm using right now. Keep in mind that the TV is in a bedroom with no really bright light sources, and I don't like a super-bright picture that actually hurts my eyes with solid white backgrounds, but I do want it sharp and clear with natural colors. The TV is connected to a DirecTV HD DVR. These settings seem just right for the room lighting and my personal preferences:

AV Mode: Standard (Tried "User" but the whites are not quite as pure white as in "Standard.")
OPC: Off
Backlight: +1
Contrast: +20 (Any higher and white backgrounds get too bright for my eyes.)
Brightness: +2
Color: -8
Tint: +2
Sharpness: +2
Active Contrast: On (I tried it off, but it actually seems to brighten faces in dark scenes, and I like the result.)
Film Mode: On
Color Temp: Middle

I haven't changed any of the Hue and Saturation settings. This TV is also an 8/08 build with probably the latest firmware. I don't know if the firmware version would make any difference in the result on other sets.

I would like to point out that the above settings are for MOVIE MODE only! I just adjusted USER MODE using the same settings and the picture was hugely over saturated. I'm going to have to use DVE again over the weekend to calibrate each of the modes. Btw it now includes tint setting... didn't realise I missed it the first time.

fyi,

J

I had a flickering issue when making colour adjustments to different modes for the first time. Although my flickering was extremely fast and very distracting, whereas yours is a slow flicker so likely a difference issue.

In any case, I reset to factory settings using the master reset (option is below "advanced" in any mode when you select Menu on your remote control) and then made my adjustments to colour, etc. again. Flickering disappeared for some reason. Might be worth a try.

Sam,

Your settings are great! I had been using the DVE HD Basics to calibrate my television but your settings look more natural. However I was wondering about the contrast and brightness. Does contrast and brightness vary from television to television. I have a 46 in and was wondering if i should use your brightness/contrast settings or the brightness/contrast settings from DVE?

Thanks, glad you are liking them.

Brightness/Contrast/Backlighting and the connected disc player can all induce variables. If you have DVE, and are comfortable using it, then by all means use that disc to set your own Brightness/Contrast. Color is the one that is impossible to set by eye.

Hey guys,

RE: LC52D64U 52" set in "User" mode (see "Movie" mode a few posts up)

Well I had a chance to calibrate using DVE again -- this time focusing on the "User" mode. Yes, believe it or not it makes a big difference between modes, even if you input the exact same settings into all of them.

You'll note (above) my DVE calibration settings for "Movie" mode. While I think my resulting "Movie" mode settings are slightly more realistic; "User" mode has some nice qualities as well, allowing for different 'feels' for different movies.

These are non-biased settings (personal preferences noted beside actual DVE calibration results), and are as follows:

Backlight: - 3 (personal setting to achieve greater blacks, not part of DVE)
Contrast: +33 (although I prefer +36)
Brightness: + 1 (anything lower crushed the blacks)
Tint: + 6 (I think it makes it too green looking, so I opted for -2)
Sharpness: + 2

HUE:

R: +20
Y: + 1
G: -15
C: + 4
B: + 7
M: - 4

SAT:

R: + 7
Y: +30
G: + 6
C: -19
B: -10
M: - 4

Of note, the RGB gels matched perfectly calibrating "User" mode this time, unlike "Movie" mode, where I couldn't quite get one square in blue to blend in.

Anyways, hope that helps and keeps some of ya's busy trying out yet another end user's calibrated settings.

Jay

How much for the software and tools???