The "Official" Denon AVR-2808CI Owners Thread - Page 50

These are settings on the iPod itself.

Thanks JDsmoothie, I will try the reset tomorrow. The wife is watching tv this evening. Thanks for the info so far.

If that doesn't solve the problems ... call Denon support. You might end up having to return it to the vendor if possible for a replacement.

the asd-2w or the 2808ci.

The 2808. I doubt that both of the ASD-2W's are bad.

uh oh.....ebay...slightly used

HOLY CRAP. It'S FIXED....

Must be a fairly common issue. Denon knew exactly how to fix everything fast.

OK. The ASD-3W and 2808CI do NOT use the dock control. They are not compatable at this time...even though the manual says to use it.

Unassign the iPod input using the 2808ci input menu.

Reset the Dock with paperclip underneath dock. Having the dock control hooked to it messed it up.

now it works flawlessly.....except i can't use the dock control.

thank you all for your help.

how do you guys think this reciever compares to some of the newer ones, like the pioneer 1018, just curious as im having a hard time picking

Apparently no one here has knowledge of the 1018 since you asked the same question yesterday and someone else asked a few days earlier. Perhaps the 1018 thread might be more useful for you.

Glad it worked out for you! Guess the other ASD-3W goes back on ebay huh?

maybe. i put a denon receiver in my room...perhaps I'll use it there.

I couldn't find an answer to this, so here goes:

I have an AVR-988. I've connected my Sony VCR video out to VCR in via composite cable.
The 988 goes HDMI to my Sammy LN52A560 on HDMI 1.
Whenever I attempt to access the VCR menu, it shows for .1sec. and blanks the monitor. It searches for signal, and gets a no signal message.
Does composite or analog send out 0's during signal switching, so the 988 drops the signal, or what?

I've gone directly to the Video in on the monitor & it works, but the Denon scaler seems better.
Any work around for this?
THX.

Oh, it's got some balls. I JUST made this exact upgrade from my 3805 to a 988. I work at Fry's Electronics, and it's clearance right now for $299 if you can find a store that still has the demo, or maybe an open box in stock.

I was doubting the power of the 988 as well, but it's driving my Energy C-9s very well, and for music, it just sounds so much cleaner than the 3805. Hard to explain.

Anyways, I picked up the 988 for $284.99 as the floor model, and I didn't get a power cord or remote, which is fine by me. I loved hearing The Departed in Dolby TrueHD on my XA2, sounded great. Renaming the inputs is joy as well.

Oh and the upscaling! I'm using a Mitsubishi WD-65833, and it scales everything to 1080p using it's "plush" 1080p processor. Well, it sucks. The DCDi in the Denon made Super Mario Galaxy on the Wii, which I have connected via component, look much cleaner. Less CCS and a smoother, but not softer look. I was happily surprised.

988 rocks. I'm selling my 3805 now.

Believe it or not, you were right. I gave another chance to Denon and the new receiver i got this monday works like a champ, no problem with the signal.

On the other hand, i've got a few questions Jdsmoothie (everybody seems to rely on you for technical issues, so i'll join ).

Early this year a friend of mine bought together a Onkyo THX certified receiver/speakers set of which, oddly, my friend was only interested on the receiver, so he sold me the speakers and sub and those are the ones i'm using currently with my Denon.

The thing is, after doing the audissey auto setup (with the sub volume level at 12 o'clock as stated in the manual) i'm not really pleased with the results as the sub is not pumping enough and the suround back speakers are too low. After double checking on the settings i saw that the auto setup had set my sub to only LFE. Could it be that this setting should be on LFE+MAIN??

These are the specs of the speaker setup:
http://www.us.onkyo.com/model.cfm?m=...ss=Systems&p=s

Any help would be great.

Thanks!!

I called Denon tech support this weekend and got the radio to work, however, the sub connection appears to be faulty. Do you know how to get the electrical schematic for this unit? I can not return to vendor for repair as I bought unit on Ebay. My bad. Thanks for you help JDsmoothie.

I dug out my VCR (which hasn't seen the light of day in about 2 years) and although was able to recreate the same VCR menu issue, was not able to get the VCR menu to remain using a couple different settings on the AVR. The only suggested work around would be the obvious one .... the rare occassion that you need to access the menu, hook up the composite cable directly to the TV set and then switch back to the Denon when done.


As I mentioned in an earlier post a couple days ago, in most cases you're going to want to set up the sub as LFE+MAIN so the LFE going to the MAIN L/R speakers is sent to the sub as well. Additionally, try setting your MAINs to SMALL if they aren't already.

As an aside, the system your friend purchased, although being THX certified, is still just a HTIB. He most likely was going to purchase much better speakers than offered with that system as well as possibly using it as a pre/pro. Ideally, that's the best way to go . .piece meal your components .. AVR being about 40% of total cost with 60% going towards the speakers. Takes a little more time and money, but generally provides a much better listening experience in the end.


No clue on obtaining the schematics other than calling Denon. Sorry. Why do you think the sub connection is faulty? Have you tried a Master Reset? Is the Denon still within the warranty period (that is if the original owner purchased it from a Denon authorized vendor)? Did you buy it with a MC, VISA, or AMEX? If so, check to see if the card has some kind of Warranty Manager on it that typically doubles the MFR's warranty up to 1 year.

I will have to check on when the buyer purchased it. Hopefully it is in the year warranty. I did perform the master reset and got the radio to work. The tech went through several things and we decided the sub ouput is faulty. I believe I paid through Paypal.

Denon's warranty on the AVR is 2 years. Paypal is just the "service" used to pay for the item. If you have a MC, VISA, or AMEX as the actual "vehicle" making the payment. However, the 2808/988 are only 1 year old, so if you bought it from an individual who used the AVR himself/herself, then Denon might still honor the warranty. Also, some eBay sellers provide their own warranties or return periods, so that's worth checking as well.

[quote=jdsmoothie;14677826]I dug out my VCR (which hasn't seen the light of day in about 2 years) and although was able to recreate the same VCR menu issue, was not able to get the VCR menu to remain using a couple different settings on the AVR. The only suggested work around would be the obvious one .... the rare occassion that you need to access the menu, hook up the composite cable directly to the TV set and then switch back to the Denon when done.


jdsmoothie,

thx for the confirmation.
that's what I was afraid of.
I appreciate you going through the trouble of testing.
People like you are what make this forum so worthwhile!

BTW...$1199 MSRP for a 999/2808 is kind of expensive for a low end AVR don't you think?

I just got this receiver at the great Amazon price, and while surfing eBay, I came across a listing for the first "real" receiver I purchased 20 years ago: Technics SA-R477. I bought it at Silo [RIP] for I think $750, and it had the latest and greatest. 100 watts, Dolby surround (only 5 watts in the rear though), 2 AV inputs, 3 audio inputs, and built-in graphic equalizer. Oooh, and a remote control!

I ran $750 through the Inflation Calculator, and came up with a 2008 value of $1,300. So an MSRP of $1199 is a fair price. $600 is an outright steal.

It boggles my mind of what I have spent on A/V equipment! (I thought $400 was a great price for a VHS hi-fi VCR in 1989!)

Bob

Just bought the 2808 and the manual sucks. (as a previous denon owner I should have expected that)
My question is about bi-amping:

So do I have to choose to EITHER bi-amp my front speakers OR use a rear surround channel?
Because that kinda sucks. I'd like to do both.
I bought this amp specifically to upgrade to 7.1 from 5.1 and had hoped I was going to bi-amp as well given what I saw of the back panel on this thing.

And if I have to use up the rear surround channel in order to bi-amp my mains, than what's the purpose of the A and B front speaker terminals?

Because it looks like in the manual that if I want to set up speakers in another room (zone 2) that would be from the rear surround channel as well. So when WOULD I use that set of front speaker B terminals?

Am I missing something?
I'm hoping some of you that have had this unit for a long time will help me out. I did a search through this very long thread using "bi-amp" as the search term but it didn't get me much.

dude, it's a 7.1 receiver. that means 7 amps. count em up -- 7 channels = 7 amps, plus bi-amping takes two more amps, that's 9.... and zone 2 takes 2 more, so that's 11. sorry, can't do it.

the idea is that, if you aren't using 7.1 and are instead using 5.1, you can take those two amps that aren't being used and re-assign them to a different task, for example bi-amping the mains. or powering zone 2.

so it's one or the other, that's why it's called a "7.1/5.1+2" receiver. the A and B front speaker terminals use the same amps.

if you really are concerned about having additional power for your mains, just get a more powerful 2-channel amp and use the pre-outs. the receiver bi-amping is really just a marketing gimmick anyway and doesn't actually gain you much power.

if you want 7.1 and also want zone 2, you need to use the zone2 pre-outs and feed an outboard amp to power the zone 2 speakers.

So, I have set the sub to LFE+MAIN.

All speakers were detected as small during the Audissey room setup so that's no problem, but the sub is set at 80hz crossover, shouldn't i use Denon recommendation when using small speakers and set it to 90 or higher?

Thx!

Generally 80-100 is the average crossover setting (although I doubt you'd notice much difference between that range), with 80hz being the THX recommendation on THX systems. Going much above 100 sometimes tends to lose the impact of having the sub ideally be non-directional in nature. Although, as the AVR provides various settings, and as each room environment is different (eg. placement of sub), you should experiment with the settings and determine which you prefer in your own room. There's simply no hard and fast rule here. It's personal preference.

All of what you said makes sense, but I'm still unclear why there is an A+B since, as you said, the A and B front speaker terminals use the same amp. Can't find any use in the manual for the B terminals. Maybe I'm just missing something simple. ?

A/B speakers have been around in stereo amps for decades, pretty much any decent stereo amp from the last 20-30 years will have A/B speakers outputs. I think the idea is that you can have, for example, one set of fronts for movies and a different set for 2-channel music, and then just switch between them depending on your preference. You can also run them both, but then you are doubling the amp load.

It's just a switching option, that's all. Some other receivers (like the 3800 Denons and up) also have A/B switching for the surround speakers, so you can have one set of surrounds for multichannel music and another for movies....

it depends on your speakers and room acoustics. if you have teeny sats you may need a 150Hz crossover or something like that. what did Audyssey say your crossover should be?

you might find this post in the Audyssey thread helpful:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...5#post14456895

raising the crossovers after Audssey runs is fine....

Hello,

I apologize in advance if this question has already been asked. I just purchased the AVR 988 and have run into a problem. I have it all hooked up and everything works, except for when I try and acess the menu. When I click on the menu button, the image on the tv switches to a grey screen, but no text is displayed. I can use the arrow buttons to scroll through the options and see what menu option my cursor must be on displayed on the front of the receiver, but nothing is displayed on the TV. This obviously makes navigation a pain as I can only see one line at a time. Has anybody encountered this problem, or know of a solution? Thanks!

That makes sense. So basically I COULD hook up a second set of front speakers in another room on the B posts. I wouldn't be a true "zone 2" since I would have to choose which set of speakers I'm listening to at any one time, but it would come in handy for when I'm having a party in the large room and want to pipe in music from the home theater.

My old Denon AVR-3300 had A/B for surround speakers, but I never tried it out. Having it on the front channel will probably be more useful for me.

correct, you can use the A/B speaker outs to wire up a second set of speakers for another room but it will not have independent source or volume control.

if you want to have independent source (i.e. watch TV in the main room and listen to music in the second room) you need to use the Zone 2 outs, find a cheap stereo amp or integrated on craigslist for $50 to supply power.