The "Official" Denon AVR-2808CI Owners Thread - Page 120

I wanted to make sure I understood this. Since I have upgraded my OPPO BDP-83 to the SE version I have decided to use the player's DAC to convert the audio signals. It appears that in Speaker Setup, all of the Audyssey settings remain except the Channel Level (4), which is unavailable. That seems to indicate that I must set those levels using my players trim settings. Do I have this right?

FYI - when using EXT IN there is NO digital processing whatsoever. The signal remains in the analog domain and passes through straight to the amps. So that means no Audyssey, no tone control, no bass management etc. So essentially you have to use the player as the "processor".

AFAIK the receiver still applies delays (distance) and channel level adjustments since those are done after the DAC's (but before the amp stage) but you should confirm this by using a disc with test tones. But you will have to configure bass management (crossover) and other settings in the player.

I did some testing, and the levels measured pretty close on all channels. It's hard to tell since Audyssey uses multiple listening positions for its setup. I made some minor changes in the levels in my player, just in case, since I usually listen to analog stereo music by myself in the sweet spot.

I'm not sure how I would go about checking the distance settings except by actually listening for anomalies.

Unfortunately, my newly upgraded OPPO BDP-83SE has a fixed crossover at 80 Hz. Audyssey set my crossovers at 40 Hz for the front & center speakers, and 60 for the surrounds in my AVR. Very disappointing. Losing the EQ benefit also sucks. It looks like its back to HDMI for multichannel.

I took your advice and set up an Outlaw Audio ICBM-1 bass management system between the player and my AVR. All of the speakers are set in the player to LARGE with sub. I ran some channel balance tests with pink noise. I had to make one or two minor adjustments, except for the sub.

The ICBM has some additional adjustments for the LFE channel. One is called LFE Mix control that lets me lower the level of the ".1" signal by up to 10 dB to help counteract boomy bass. This control does not affect the bass content of the other channels. Also, there is a subwoofer level control that lets me fine-tune the balance of my sub with my other speakers. I can boost the sub by up to 9dB, or completely turn it down. During my balancing with the test tones, I set the ICBM's subwoofer level control to 0dB, and used the player's level control to set the level so it was equal to that of the other channels. It appears I may have to use this, or less conveniently, the sub"s volume control, for fine-tuning individual discs, since SACD LFE levels are apparently different from video discs.

Distance and level settings are taken from the #1 mic position only.

Well then I guess the slight differences in level settings could be attributed to testing methods (for example, using a Radio Shack sound pressure meter, having to stand close to it in order to take the readings, and a different test tone sourced from the player).

^^
The Radio Shack SPL meter and the Audyssey mic both have a +/-2db error rate. Using the Audyssey mic on a camera tripod or boom mic stand will give far more accurate results, which you can then adjust up/down to suit your preference.

Already done and discussed on this thread. I wrote down the Audyssey settings and can easily revert.

Audyssey measurements are made without the need of someone close to the listening position to read the SPL meter. This could easily account for the slight differences, as I said.

Hi guys, I've got 2 questions for ya:

1. What's the newest firmware (Europe) for the 2808CI & where can I find it?

2. My Harmony One remote doesn't respond well when I try to turn on the tuner; the denon doesn't power on on a first try. It's the only preset that gives me issues; when the denon has to be powered on for preset "gaming", it works instantly. Any ideas? I've allready tried different presets; but when selecting tuner.. it never powers on at the first go.

Would be great - thanks!

^^
Firmware for the Denon Europe models can be downloaded at the Denon Europe website.

http://firmware.denon-online.eu/

thanks for the link smoothie!

I'm also having trouble with my Harmony remote... power on and power off as well as switching imputs between activities. If I use the direct input on the remote from the "avr device" screen, it works fine, first time every time...


TIA, Jason

Recently I get a loud static noise through all speakers at random times on bluray discs only. It is not repeatable in the same location on the disc and is happening way too often. (multiple times per movie in cowboys vs aliens, cars2,tangled, etc). Is this the dreaded dts bomb and what can be done??

Thanks for any help in advance.

-Fez

^^
Yup .. could be. PM me with a non-gmail email address and I can forward the firmware update with instructions that you can install yourself.

Ey Jason, I just updated my 2808 to latest firmware & the Harmony remote issue is solved! So go update yer 2808

The changelog says: "improvement of RS232 control" and I guess I fixed our issue with the Harmony!

Jdsmoothie,

What kind of cable is needed to go from the comp to the receiver for the firmware upgrade?

-Fez

^^
USB to RS-232.

Howdy all. Not sure if this thread is even close to alive still...but what the heck I am giving it a try!

As is probably no surprise to many of you, I am (out of nowhere) having HDMI issues. In no way shape or form can I get ANY HDMI out signal to my projector. I have examined the internal board and it does NOT appear to be a burnout issue of the HDMI components on the board (one suggestion DEEP in this thread). I have also done a full system reset (another suggestion DEEPER in the thread), but no dice.

I have not changed one little thing in this setup over the last 3-years. I am at a total loss as to what happened.

FWIW...the HDMI hookup to the projector is run through a Monoprice powered wall plate over CAT-5e cable. I know the cable and plugs are good because I am typing this post on the laptop with HDMI hooked up to this plug and projecting on my screen right now. So I definitely have ruled out the plug/plate/wall-wire possibility. Only thing left is the receiver. I was able to get audio for a bit via the Bluray (with no picture), but now even that is gone.

Please help!!!

Thanks y'all!

A signal going through an HDMI repeater (ie. AVR) isn't going to be as strong as when the source is connected directly to the PJ. Try connecing the AVR to another TV placed closer to the AVR or reducing the resolution from the AVR to 480p or 720p. If either of those configs works, the signal strength needs to be boosted with an HDMI extender (Monoprice), otherwise, if not, it's more likely an issue with the HDMI board.

Thanks jd. I guess I am at a loss for why it worked so well for so long...then kaput:/ I know when the standard went to 1.3 I started getting intermittent flashes and signal losses in the last year. But now nada?

I will definitely try the shorter run test when I get a chance this weekend. Presupposing that fails...then what? Do I have a really awesome analog receiver? :/ I am pretty handy with regards to electronics and am fairly comfortable making technical repairs on boards and such. Just don't know where to start since the board and ports themselves look flawless.

You could try resetting the microprocessor as a last resort, although if the HDMI board has failed, it's likely to cost about $300 or so to replace it. Another option would be to connect the HDMI sources directly to the TV with optical/coax digital from those same sources to the AVR for surround audio. It's unlikely you would be able to tell the difference between the HD audio over HDMI and the higher bitrate lossy DD/DTS on BDs over optical/coax digital.

Thanks again jd. I did do the system-reset and still had the same issue:/

For $300 I could buy an entire new unit via Ebay right now. Frustrating.

I will likely have to get a new receiver for that room because of the hookup to the projector. Otherwise I can try swapping HDMI cables from Bluray to Xbox to DirecTV every time we watch something different, but that doesn't sound fun/smart.

I just wish there was some way of testing that board. Visual inspection yielded absolutely ZERO information for me:(

If you had a thunderstorm in the area recently, it's very possible a nearby lighting strike may have damaged the HDMI board as they are very sensitive to power surges. If you popped the top, you could check to make sure everything is seated securely in place.

No thunderstorm. I guess I also should have mentioned I took the casing off and inspected the board. Looked 100% fine to me. I snapped a couple photos on my phone and as soon as I e-mail them to myself I will post them here.

The board looked clean. No heat warp, discoloration, or anything. I am really hoping it is some handshake/firmware issue with the new HDMI standard that just isn't cooperating with the HDMI relay in the wall. I know...a boy can dream right:)

Thanks, but unlike blown fuses which are easy to detect, AFAIK, you can't just look at a PCB and detect defective HDMI inputs.

Well gee wiz jd...you are just full of good news;)

I just got back from a quickie beach trip, so I will be giving the direct-hookup mode a chance in the next couple days when I get some down time. Will post details soon. Thanks again jd!

I just moved and set the receiver up and am getting no sound to the speakers. No sound in test mode. Any ideas?

Try blowing some compressed air into the headphone jack or insert/remote a headphone plug a few times to remove the dust.

Was the headphone jack directed at my issue? If so I tried it and still no sound.