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The "Official" Denon AVR-2808CI Owners Thread - Page 126

post #3751 of 3813
Quote:
Originally Posted by tejanoguy View Post

New guy here. I've had my AVR-2808CI for a few years now and it's well outside it's warranty time. Just the other day, my HDMI inputs/output seem to have given out. Is there a way to replace them without taking it in and getting my wallet violated?? I'm somewhat mechanically inclined and not afraid to take stuff apart. Currently I have my cable, xbox, etc sound going into the receiver via the optical connector while connecting my TV HDMI directly to whatever source I'm using. It's a pain in the ass if I want to go from say...cable to xbox.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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post #3752 of 3813
Awesome!! Thanks!! $40 is way better than getting a new receiver!!
post #3753 of 3813

my 2808 hdmi ports went out, too. a surge got into the cable co's coax and fried the hdmi ports in my flat screnn, my denon and the TW Cable DVR (I could return that of course, for a new one). I was looking for a board for the unit.  

post #3754 of 3813

Hi,

 

Can the Denon AVR-2808 decode the HD audio bitstream via a HDMI connection when I'm playing a 3D movie. 1 HDMI port from PC plugged into Pany plasma the other plugged into Denon AVR-2808? It's more for the kids to watch 3D cartoons. I was told by a salesman it was a no no as the Denon AVR-2808 can't recognise the bitstream as apparently the 3D picture and audio are mixed together and the AVR won't be able to separate out the audio because the 3D makes the signal unrecognisable. Since it was a salesman and he was trying to sell me a new AVR i took it with a pinch of salt. Is there any way I could feed HD audio into the AVR-2808 whilst hooking the 3D bluray player to the plasma?

 

 

Thanks

Haider

post #3755 of 3813
If the Blu Ray player can separate the audio and video (eg. dual HDMI 1.4 BDP) then the 2808CI will be able to decode the audio.
post #3756 of 3813
Do any of you guys ever take the case off to remove dust? Just curious if it is difficult to remove and would doing so somehow reset all my settings or mess with my Audyssey settings?

I dust the unit off regularly but, I've never opened it up and cleaned the dust that may collect on the inside and I've had it since 2008.

I just started think about it because our PC that is even older had been neglected and I just took it to work and completely disassembled it, I mean ever thing came out of the case, motherboard, power supply... everything. Our PC hasn't been this clean since we bought it and, of course, it runs a whole lot better now.

I'm not having any problems with my AVR just curious about the best cleaning techniques. I'm not sure I want to do it if it is going to erase my settings and I don't want to have to remove boards or wires either, but I should probably clean it if possible because that will help prolong the life of the unit.

Any, thoughts.

Edit: I work in IT and take computers apart all the time so, I'm familiar with electronics but have never opened an AVR. I'm not nervous about doing it just really don't want to lose my settings and I want to take as little apart as possible but still get the dust out.
Edited by rolltide1017 - 11/12/13 at 6:57am
post #3757 of 3813
I can't recommend specific cleaning techniques but taking the case off is as easy as can be, just loosen the screws in the corners and the case lifts right off the chassis.
post #3758 of 3813

Get a can of compressed air. Remove the cover like the other guy recommended...pretty straightforward. Try to tip it up on its side or upside down if possible. The idea is to get the dust to fly OUT. Carefully spray with short bursts, around the dirty areas. Try not to directly touch the PWBs or more precisely, any of the IC's. ESD (static discharge) can ruin a chip. That's the most basic thing to do, in a nutshell. The biggest advantage to removing debris is to keep heat from building up under the dust, which traps it and jeopardizes your components. I took a fan from a junk PC and put it on top of the unit to add to the cooling. 

post #3759 of 3813
Thanks for the tips. Will it save my settings during this process? I know I've lost power before and my settings were fine once power was restored, and cleaning shouldn't take to long but, I just want to make sure. I really don't want to have to run Audyssey setup again.
post #3760 of 3813
Settings should remain in tact for at least 1-2 weeks after power is removed as long as the AVR is powered OFF before unplugging the unit.
post #3761 of 3813

Naw...your settings will be fine. You don't really need to dis-assemble anything inside, either, like pulling boards (except in some extreme kind of case where debris is stuck in the pin slots).

post #3762 of 3813
Thanks guys, looks like I got a project to do tonight.
post #3763 of 3813

Oh yes, don't forget to unplug the power cord! 

post #3764 of 3813
Is the audio delay setting global or a per input setting? Also, does it work with Tone Defeat set to ON (which is default and what I have it set on), the manual makes it seem like it doesn't work with Tone Defeat on, but it could mean while in DIRECT or STEREO mode only? I'm not sure, which is why I'm asking.
post #3765 of 3813
Per input. Shouldn't be any conflict with tone controls afaik.
post #3766 of 3813
I must be doing something wrong then because I've messed with it and I don't see a difference with it at 100 or 0. Does it work on all the inputs? I have 2 things with slight sync issues and nothing seems to change on either one when I mess with the audio delay, one is HDMI the other is coaxial.
post #3767 of 3813
Quote:
Originally Posted by rolltide1017 View Post

Is the audio delay setting global or a per input setting? Also, does it work with Tone Defeat set to ON (which is default and what I have it set on), the manual makes it seem like it doesn't work with Tone Defeat on, but it could mean while in DIRECT or STEREO mode only? I'm not sure, which is why I'm asking.

Haven't tested it, but the manual implies it does not work when using EXT IN, DIRECT, or STEREO.
post #3768 of 3813
Well it makes sense that it wouldn't work in Direct or EXT IN modes since these are unprocessed modes. Surprised it wouldn't work in basic stereo though.
post #3769 of 3813

I have searched EVERYWHERE and I can't seem to find the proper cable for IR extension. I simply want to hook up an IR eye on a cable to the back of the AVR.

 

Has anyone done this? Recommendations on a cable???

 

If that is not an option then where is the IR sensor on the front of the AVR? I may use a cheap extender but need to find the sensor to place the extender.

 

Any help is much appreciated!

 

Thanks.

post #3770 of 3813
You can't just plug an IR eye directly into the AVR, you need to also have a powered IR repeater in between the eye and the receiver to actively repeat the signal. The same would be true with a "blaster" taped over the front IR sensor rather than plugged in direct to the input on the back, so going that route won't change the need for the active (powered) repeater hardware.

Once you have the right hardware for IR extension, you can then choose to use the "blaster" taped onto the sensor on the front (the position of the sensor is clearly illustrated on pg 4 of your manual) or hard-wire from the repeater to the jack on the back of the receiver with a mono mini-jack cable (1/8").
post #3771 of 3813

Hi everyone,

 

I picked up a used AVR-988 and I've been reading the thread as I attempt to integrate this into my setup.

 

I have a amplified 5.1 speaker setup and I got this primarily to digitally decode sources and use the pre outs as an input for my amp.  This is way more complicated that any receiver I've ever used before, so I tried to start out simple and hooked up the analog output of my cable box as a source and then plugged the front two channels of the speakers into the front channels of the pre-outs and...nothing.

 

Two things I will try when I get home: blowing air in the headphone jack and a factory reset.

 

Are there any other suggestions?

post #3772 of 3813
First thing to to with any used AVR is to reset the microprocessor.
post #3773 of 3813

Thanks, doh! for not catching that in the manual obviously clear as a bell.

 

I must be misunderstanding the point of the "room to room" or "remote input". Can someone explain the purpose of that?

post #3774 of 3813
The purpose of that is exactly for what we are discussing -- allowing you to add an IR extender to pass signals to the receiver even when it is hidden out of line-of-sight from the remote. You aren't misunderstanding its purpose, just apparently the hardware needed to achieve it wink.gif
post #3775 of 3813

OK, I've blown all possible dust out of it including the headphone jack and I've reset the processor.  I can't get this thing to make a single sound -- absolutely nothing.

 

Is there an easy way to check that this thing is working?

post #3776 of 3813
you did lots of reading of the forum but did you use those same skills to read the manual? :-) try plugging in a headset and see what you hear when you select a source, in particular a tuner, even off channel will likely create some noise. Further, if you tried to plug speakers into the preouts, they aren't going to work, those are for sending a "reduced" (ie. line level) signal to an amp.
post #3777 of 3813

Thanks for the info, if you understand the hardware needed do you mind sharing a link to it? I have no doubt if I can just see what the proper hardware is I can get it to work.

 

Thanks again!

post #3778 of 3813
Quote:
Originally Posted by 60siron View Post

OK, I've blown all possible dust out of it including the headphone jack and I've reset the processor.  I can't get this thing to make a single sound -- absolutely nothing.

Is there an easy way to check that this thing is working?

You need to rule out the issue being caused by the external amp. Try connecting the FL/FR speakers directly to the FL/FR speaker posts on the 988 and see if you can play some test tones or audio to them.
post #3779 of 3813

Yes, I connected the preouts to an amplifier, not directly to a speaker.  No sound at all.

 

When I plug the headphones into the jack I hear relays clicking but no sound out of the headphones or the speakers.

 

While testing each configuration I have a signal coming in on one of the analog inputs (TV / CBL), but I do flip through the input selector to see if I get sound from anything.  I don't

 

I've tried sending test tones to each speaker (I've got the two fronts, a center, and surround speakers connected to speaker posts) and I get nothing.

post #3780 of 3813
Try inserting/removing the headphone plug a few times in succession or blow some compressed air into the headphone jack.
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