I'm about 3 years late to the party but here is some info on flicker that I did not find elsewhere.
Summary: Many have speculated that their flicker was caused by the iris. That is confirmed and fixed.
Details: Below are two photos of the iris mechanism taken from the bottom with the lamp cover off. (Yeah, there is an interlock switch.) The left photo is a short exposure showing no motion. The right photo is a long exposure, through a (dirty) filter to increase exposure time. The motion can be seen by:
- The width of the bright area to the right of the green arrow,
- The loss of details in the surface by the red arrow, and
- The double image of the end of the plastic piece to the left of the yellow arrow.
At first, this machine had the sticky iris causing it to shut off after about 5 minutes. The top and bottom parts were lubricated with the first PTFE (Teflon) lubricant I could find locally. That fixed the sticky problem but created a new problem. The iris would vibrate (actually oscillate). The vibration caused big time flicker. The amount of flicker was a function of projector position (on its side was worst), picture mode, and input signal. With no input signal at all, I believe there was no vibration, not sure. The photos were taken with a still input image, dynamic iris and light harmonizer off, lamp in normal mode (though eco mode made no difference), yada yada.
To digress for a moment: I tried simply unplugging the connector to the dynamic iris. The machine balked and shut down after ~5 min.
The service menu that indicates the iris is not OK ("OK" in red) seems to reflect the previous power cycle not the current cycle. When I created a fault before power on, the machine would indicate "OK" in white and still shut down after 3 min. and 9 sec. The next time I turned it on, the iris "OK" would be in red. (Reset the OK status using "initialize" in the other service menu.)http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post12252254
Below is a photo of the upper portion of the iris mechanism. To get there: take off the joystick (unscrew CCW and pull off), take out seven screws from the bottom and one from the back marked with an arrow. Flip the projector right side up and lift off the case. The arrow points to the end of the shaft on which the mechanism rotates. The projector can be run with the case off. It actually looks kinda neat.
Now back to our story: To fix the flickering I removed as much of the liquid PTFE as I could with a Q-Tip. Used tweezers to pick up leftover fibers. Then applied the recommended CRC dry PTFE (03044). This seemed to do the job.
Video on lubricating the iris:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6jGwB05_gdk
CRC dry PTFE:http://www.grovesindustrial.com/inde...ms_detail&data
CRC CO contact cleaner (expensive):http://www.govofficesupply.com/servl...Cleaner/Detail