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Olevia 65 inch 1080p lcd - Page 49

post #1441 of 1760
Quote:
Originally Posted by essel View Post

I just got the olevia 265T FHD LCD tv on woot also. I to have the issue with the TV freezing with nothing appearing on the display screen every time I turn the TV off (in standby mode). I then have to shut the TV off using the main power switch on the back and turn it back on. I have checked the firmware ( i have the latest and greatest). I've seen similar issues with other olevia 747i sets discussed on this forum. Can anyone give me some advise.
I have two HDMI inputs (one from a FIOS DVR) and a SONY BR player connected. Any Suggestions ??
thanks

Try changing the hdmi on your fios dvr to component I work for Verizon and there were some issues with new tvs and the firmware. Is the dvr a 7200 series or 6416 series?
post #1442 of 1760
Quote:
Originally Posted by rrhomes View Post

The Neutral in the service menu will only affect the ATI Tuners on HDTV all other inputs are 6500 then use a calibration disc to fine tune it from there, my PS3 looks fantastic after I use a disc on it. I still haven't figures how the service menu settings there are applied to each input but if they are applied across the board then its very likely worth the money to have a pro calibrate the O65 to D65 because the TV is very capable of delivering a stunning picture once calibrated.


My GetGray disc settings are:

PS3 via HDMI RGB: from 0(Zero): Brightness + 41 clicks, Contrast -38 clicks from being full 100%, color + 48 clicks from 0(Zero), tint + 53 clicks from 0(Zero). This is from my PS3 set to RGB.

PS3 set to Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr is brightness set to + 27 clicks from 0. and Contrast is - 26 clicks down from 100%. Color and Tint unchanged from the above RGB setting.

RGB and Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr are different gamma levels from the PC and video in the end once calibrated they look identical. I (THINK) the ATI tuners are putting out RGB because the Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr settings looks a tad to dim while using the tuners. The hardware you use also affects the settings so it nothing to bank on but a place to start if you don't have a disk of any kind. Most DVD players will use the Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr. The PS3 automatically defaults to this with my O65 but I manually changed it to RGB because the PS3 outputs GAMES in RGB and if you using the Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr then the games will be darker than should be( I was having to change the brightness and contrast every time I played a game) because the PS3 Video default is Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr on the O65, which I had calibrated for but then the PS3 switched to RGB for games and the brightness wasn't high enough. In other words if you have a DVD player and no PS3 try the Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr settings first.

If I find out the service menu color settings applies across the board to the selected resolutions listed in it I may spend $400 to have a pro come out and tune to perfection. If anyone else does this be sure to wright down your numbers in the Service menu because sometimes I think it doesn't save them, Like my 16:9 setting on the ATI tuners goes back to 4:3 sometime with out me changing it. Putting the ATI tuners in Neutral may help reduce the yellow some have seen on HDTV, also set the temp to 6500.

I have turned off cinemotion because I thought it might be causing ghosting but I think it hasn't helped much so I'll prob turn it back on. The only way this TV could get less ghosting is if Olevia released some firmware where ATI or Sharp Overdrives the panel in the ON/Off states because the ghosting is like it isn't being overdriven at all, its more like a 25MS panel. Overdriving is common practice with LCD makers and if this panel is over driven I'd be shocked because of how slow it is. IMO there is the slightest of hope that the ghosting can be improved if we all told Olevia to see what sharp can give them data wise that may over drive the panel, again I guarantee THIS PANEL is not being over driven it looks and acts just like LCD of old before they learned to overdrive trick to speed up response time. Also I noticed in the service menu a thing called HDMI CLK and from my research it's a clock speed mhz adjustment and we may get lucky there if it could be speed up to the panels, although theres a 99% shot it has nothing to do with it, I think its the Speed of the HDMI port. DON"T CHANGE IT YOUR TV MAY NOT WORK untill a pro comes on here and tells us what it is. Maybe someone can post in the Calibration section of AVS as I'm sure the ISF Certified calibrators know what its for.

But to be truthful I think somewhere Sharp or somebody can adjust this panel to be overdriven harder, it looks to me like something thats been left out but should have been done. The O65 is advertised at what 12MS or 8MS either way it acts like one of those two panels that isn't being over driven. We see how they are with simple stuff like remotes with no direct sources so it wouldn't surprise me if the panels are capable of being overdriven(meant to be) but just aren't, they damn sure act like it. Of course all of this is me speculating like I'd be dead in the morning, but the TV is ridiculously slow for a LCD, and since they advertised it as reasonably fast, something is not right. Some one needs to talk to a deep level tech and tell them the panel most likely is not getting the overdrive benefits, they may look into it since they know the problem is real and there but they have been stump or think theres nothing to do, If a firmware could tell the panel to drive harder to the on/off states it would definitely help. If it is being over driven (99% of LCD's are+) and its this slow then its a really really really really slow panel. I'd bet a $100 that its meant to be overdriven but its not being, some failure of some programmer somewhere who went to lunch, like the remote desiner who thought individual source buttons where to much to ask. . That sends me to TacoBell for a tostada.

I'd bet if 10-20 of us stayed on them and told them to contact Sharp to see if it can be overdriven they would at least inquire with Sharp about the issue and may even get a fix, but we got to point them to it and if they think the panel may be able to be speed up then they will try because that will drastically reduce ghosting and end calls to them about it and satisfies a lot of customers, the panel on all of their other sizes are fine as far as speed. The question is can the panel be told to over drive through some clock increase through a firmware update provided by Olevia with data info from Sharp. Its probably right there ready to be used but is turned off.

Again I remind you I'm the biggest speculator on earth. If it is already being overdriven then the panel is like a LCD made in 1998 and we know these are 7-8 generation panels. I can't name any panel that isn't being overdriven. Theres a reason this panel is so slow, what is that reason?.

Good post. I had previously speculated in this post that there are two possibilities:
  1. The panel could be overdriving excessively, causing bright flashes of color when going from dark to light, before the pixel settles on a dimmer color, or
  2. The panel is really just that slow (and it isn't overdriving, and it probably should be). If this is the case, it seems to me that at least when going from dark states to light states, red is the fastest, blue is the slowest, and green is somewhere in between (which would explain the color of the trails, and how a black object moving across a sand-colored background would produce bright red trails that are much more red than the sand, for instance).

After reading your post and after thinking about the issue a bit more, I'm pretty convinced that you're right: The panel is slow and isn't being overdriven. It seems to explain the symptoms better than excessive overdriving does, especially since I haven't seen any obvious inverse ghosting when going from light to darker colors (imagine a white mouse cursor moving across a medium-brightness background, and a much darker trail than the background following the white cursor).

In either case though, I'm pretty confident that the problem could be fixed or significantly alleviated by adjusting the overdrive settings in the firmware...most likely by turning it from off to on. It would certainly be very nice to get this fixed. However, it's possible that Olevia's techs haven't coded up any overdrive algorithms whatsoever for this panel, and they might have to start from scratch (then again, maybe that's Sharp's responsibility). In addition, finding the right level of overdrive might take some tweaking, considering some colors seem to have faster/slower response time than the others. Unfortunately, after Syntax-Brillian's bankruptcy and the apparent shenanigans involved in the restructuring of the Olevia brand, it's difficult to tell whether any more real business will be done under the brand name...and if it won't be, then Olevia isn't very likely to spend time fixing an issue like this.

Have you had any luck bugging Olevia about this?
post #1443 of 1760
Hi,

I purchased this Olevia 65" LCD (Olevia 265T FHD) TV about a month ago from SC and after reading too many posting about this tv I was able to upgrade the firmware on it to the latest one. but I think I also read too much, because I learned how to get to the service menu, so I was trying to get a little more redish color to the picture and a little less blue, but I think I tweaked the setting a little bit and now the red color is a little too red and the yellow a little too yellow. so, I was wondering it you or anyone can tell me the original setting (numbers) on the VGA, 1080P ... and the rest of the OFFSET 1 and GAIN 1 on page 2 and the OFFSET 2 and GAIN 2 page 3 of the service menu or at least your settings, so I can try to set it backto see if I can get the original picture back. because I did not write them down before I changed them I figured the factory default setting will bring it back, wich of course it did not.

Can you please help? Thanks an advance.
post #1444 of 1760
Quote:
Originally Posted by ms1444 View Post

Hi,

I purchased this Olevia 65" LCD (Olevia 265T FHD) TV about a month ago from SC and after reading too many posting about this tv I was able to upgrade the firmware on it to the latest one. but I think I also read too much, because I learned how to get to the service menu, so I was trying to get a little more redish color to the picture and a little less blue, but I think I tweaked the setting a little bit and now the red color is a little too red and the yellow a little too yellow. so, I was wondering it you or anyone can tell me the original setting (numbers) on the VGA, 1080P ... and the rest of the OFFSET 1 and GAIN 1 on page 2 and the OFFSET 2 and GAIN 2 page 3 of the service menu or at least your settings, so I can try to set it backto see if I can get the original picture back. because I did not write them down before I changed them I figured the factory default setting will bring it back, wich of course it did not.

Can you please help? Thanks an advance.

If you search this forum, someone took pictures of every page of their service menu and attached them to their post.
post #1445 of 1760
Quote:
Originally Posted by mml265 View Post

If you search this forum, someone took pictures of every page of their service menu and attached them to their post.

Unfortunately, I think that everyone's default settings might be different, due to the factory calibration. Mine are certainly different from what I saw in some of the photos...for what it's worth though, I wrote them all down some months back, so I'll post them here:

My Original Service Menu Settings:
Quote:


Page 1:
Overscan Adjustment = Normal (NOTE: This seems to be overridden by basic cropping settings)
Backlight Adjustment (Dark) = 56
Backlight Adjustment (Medium) = 74
Backlight Adjustment (Bright) = 89

Page 2:
VGA R Offset 1 = 154
VGA G Offset 1 = 142
VGA B Offset 1 = 144
VGA R Gain 1 = 89
VGA G Gain 1 = 89
VGA B Gain 1 = 90
1080p - YPbPr R Offset = 128
1080p - YPbPr G Offset = 128
1080p - YPbPr B Offset = 128
1080p - YPbPr R Gain = 128
1080p - YPbPr G Gain = 128
1080p - YPbPr B Gain = 128
720p - YPbPr R Offset = 128
720p - YPbPr G Offset = 128
720p - YPbPr B Offset = 128
720p - YPbPr R Gain = 86
720p - YPbPr G Gain = 69
720p - YPbPr B Gain = 89
480i - YPbPr R Offset = 128
480i - YPbPr G Offset = 128
480i - YPbPr B Offset = 128
480i - YPbPr R Gain = 96
480i - YPbPr G Gain = 76
480i - YPbPr B Gain = 96

Page 3:
VGA R Offset 1 = 138
VGA G Offset 1 = 141
VGA B Offset 1 = 132
VGA R Gain 1 = 92
VGA G Gain 1 = 93
VGA B Gain 1 = 96
1080p - YPbPr R Offset = 128
1080p - YPbPr G Offset = 128
1080p - YPbPr B Offset = 128
1080p - YPbPr R Gain = 128
1080p - YPbPr G Gain = 128
1080p - YPbPr B Gain = 128
720p - YPbPr R Offset = 128
720p - YPbPr G Offset = 128
720p - YPbPr B Offset = 128
720p - YPbPr R Gain = 89
720p - YPbPr G Gain = 73
720p - YPbPr B Gain = 93
480i - YPbPr R Offset = 128
480i - YPbPr G Offset = 128
480i - YPbPr B Offset = 128
480i - YPbPr R Gain = 99
480i - YPbPr G Gain = 79
480i - YPbPr B Gain = 99

Page 4:
Tuner 1 and 2
Brightness = 21
Contrast = 39
Saturation = 28
Hue = 25
Sharpness = 20
Backlight = 42
Aspect Ratio = 4x3
View Mode = Normal
Color Temperature = Neutral
CineMotion = ON
Noise Reduction = OFF
SERA = OFF

Page 5:
CNR Level = 7

Apparently, I didn't write down everything from page 5, but ms1444 didn't ask for those anyway. Also, I'm not 100% positive that the Color Temperature setting on page 4 is my default, because I wrote these values down after fiddling with Color Temperature in the main menu and possibly the service menu as well. Other than that, the only service menu settings I've changed (besides tinkering with page 5 checkmarks) are the backlight settings, where I currently have 32 for dark, 56 for medium, and 74 for bright. Anyway...ms1444, if many of your settings are already different from mine other than the ones you changed, I wouldn't suggest changing your settings to match mine. If you do want to experiment though, it would be a good idea to write down your current values and make a note of which ones you've already changed (if you can remember).

BTW (again to ms1444), you mentioned that you originally wanted a little less blue. Did you have your color temperature set to Native or 6500K? The set defaults to Native I believe (which is overly blue), but a better temperature is 6500K (which is factory calibrated I believe). When I first tried 6500K, it was too warm to the point of being unusable: Whites were practically orange, etc. However, I did "something," and it made it so that 6500K now looks beautiful. I'm really not sure what triggered the sharp change in 6500K colors, but I might have been that I fiddled with the Color Temperature setting on page 4 of the service menu (for the ATI TV tuner), changing the color temperature from Neutral to Warm and back, or something to that effect. I have an older post somewhere in this thread on the same topic, and it may or may not have more detail.

Good luck.
post #1446 of 1760
Quote:
Originally Posted by mml265 View Post

If you search this forum, someone took pictures of every page of their service menu and attached them to their post.

Thanks for your reply, Ive tried to look for those pictures, no luck, Do you by any chance have the link for this post or those pictures.

Thank you much.
post #1447 of 1760
All, I have found the following with my Olevia...when you turn it on, if there is already a source sending signal to the TV on whatever input it was set to, it will be fine, no problem, every single time. If, however, whatever input you last used is NOT sending a signal, at least 50% of the time on my set, it will freeze. I can reproduce time and time again.

Can anyone else comment on this? For instance, if I have it on HDMI 1 and my PS3 is attached there, powered on, etc. it works, every single time. But if I have it on HDMI 1 and the PS3 is off, then at least half the time when I turn it on, it freezes, requiring to be powercycled again and again until it stops.

Clearly, for components that you have connected, that at least is a workaround (albeit a pretty crappy one), but the problem is, what about for all those other inputs you don't have connected? Since you have to cycle through the inputs, and the same thing happens when you are switching inputs, it really isn't a workable solution (at least on this model, some have a slightly different model where you can jump directly to a given input).

Unless, someone knows a way to switch directly from say VGA to HDMI 1 without having to cycle through every single input between them? Or from HDMI 1 to Tuner 1, etc.

Very interested to hear the feedback of others on this, particularly if their TVs do the same thing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by storyid View Post

I have the same problem as well, turn it on and probably 50% of the time, I can't change inputs, the Olevia screen comes on, then goes away and the TV is unresponsive. Sometimes turning it off fixes it (with the power button on the front, the remote never works), other times I have to turn off the switch on the side to cut power to the unit, wait a few minutes, and turn it back on (and then, sometimes it's fixed, sometimes I have to do it again, and again, and again...eventually it works).

What does everyone think, do others besides Stace and Solidbrass have this problem? I have a T11 and the firmware is current...has anyone called Olevia about this (is that even a worthwhile strategy at this stage of the game)?

If anyone has ideas, PM me or reply, thanks...really sad if this turns out to be "how it is" for this beautiful TV (got it as the September 22nd Woot!).
post #1448 of 1760
I don't have the 65" but the cousin 47" and you can get a logitech harmony and you can set it for discreet input and it will work . Another way is to pull up the menu wheel and change inputs from there ( don't have to scroll ) .
post #1449 of 1760
Quote:
Originally Posted by ms1444 View Post

Thanks for your reply, Ive tried to look for those pictures, no luck, Do you by any chance have the link for this post or those pictures.

Thank you much.

Try post #720, posted by tomas at the bottom of page 24.
post #1450 of 1760
Quote:
Originally Posted by storyid View Post

All, I have found the following with my Olevia...when you turn it on, if there is already a source sending signal to the TV on whatever input it was set to, it will be fine, no problem, every single time. If, however, whatever input you last used is NOT sending a signal, at least 50% of the time on my set, it will freeze. I can reproduce time and time again.

Can anyone else comment on this? For instance, if I have it on HDMI 1 and my PS3 is attached there, powered on, etc. it works, every single time. But if I have it on HDMI 1 and the PS3 is off, then at least half the time when I turn it on, it freezes, requiring to be powercycled again and again until it stops.

Clearly, for components that you have connected, that at least is a workaround (albeit a pretty crappy one), but the problem is, what about for all those other inputs you don't have connected? Since you have to cycle through the inputs, and the same thing happens when you are switching inputs, it really isn't a workable solution (at least on this model, some have a slightly different model where you can jump directly to a given input).

Unless, someone knows a way to switch directly from say VGA to HDMI 1 without having to cycle through every single input between them? Or from HDMI 1 to Tuner 1, etc.

Very interested to hear the feedback of others on this, particularly if their TVs do the same thing.

Good to hear you've found a workaround I'm not sure how helpful this post will be, but you said you wanted feedback, so I just wanted to chip in that my own TV does not exhibit this freezing problem whatsoever, and I've had it for nearly 8 months. I regularly turn it on when the input is set to a powered off source (Xbox 360 for instance), and I don't have freezing issues when cycling through all of the inputs, either. From the perspective of someone who doesn't have freezing problems, it sounds to me like you have a faulty unit...that said, it might nevertheless be a relatively common issue.

As far as discrete input selection goes...as far as I know, the only way to do it is by buying a Harmony universal remote and programming it correctly. If you search the thread for the word "Harmony," you'll find some posts on it.
post #1451 of 1760
Does anybody else here notice the choppy frame movements on pans or sweeps of the camera, when things a still it looks fabulous but when theres a lot of movement the tv seems like its doing about 15 frames a second. Very choppy and distracting. Now that I've noticed it its irking the crap out of me.
post #1452 of 1760
Quote:
Originally Posted by rrhomes View Post

Does anybody else here notice the choppy frame movements on pans or sweeps of the camera, when things a still it looks fabulous but when theres a lot of movement the tv seems like its doing about 15 frames a second. Very choppy and distracting. Now that I've noticed it its irking the crap out of me.

If you mean motion blur, yes. Watching David Letterman, the picture is great. But, while doing his stand-up, if he wears a pin stripe suit, everytime he moves, the pin stripes blur.
post #1453 of 1760
Well Im talking about something different although mine does blur. I'm talking about the medium to fast pan that you can see the frame by frame movement. It may have to do with response time but it seem more like something else but it doesn't pan smooth, I don't think 120hz would help this is but if it does then I'm headed to 120hz TV's but I think thats a film based feature and not video based.
post #1454 of 1760
Quote:
Originally Posted by storyid View Post

All, I have found the following with my
Unless, someone knows a way to switch directly from say VGA to HDMI 1 without having to cycle through every single input between them? Or from HDMI 1 to Tuner 1, etc.

You can switch to a different source directly by using the menu. It's something like Screen=>Main Picture Source and then scroll thru until you get the input source you want and select it to go directly to it. Not as easy as my Toshiba plasma, but it's better than cycling thru all of the sources.
post #1455 of 1760
Quote:
Originally Posted by rrhomes View Post

Does anybody else here notice the choppy frame movements on pans or sweeps of the camera, when things a still it looks fabulous but when theres a lot of movement the tv seems like its doing about 15 frames a second. Very choppy and distracting. Now that I've noticed it its irking the crap out of me.

Yep I see it too. Especially on video from my HD camcorder. Very annoying. I don't know if it's a 60Hz/120Hz issue, LCD issue, Olevia or what. I don't see this on my old 50" 720p Toshiba plasma.
post #1456 of 1760
Thank you !!!
post #1457 of 1760
Hey Everybody....I was wondering if someone can help me figure something out and I apologize if this was already covered. I have a PS3 as a blue-ray player and, of course this 65 inch Olevia TV. I rented I Am Legend and Indiana Jones both on Blu-Ray and I'm wondering why both these titles still have the black bars above and below the picture. Is this not the reason why we all upgraded to wide screen TVs??? Is there a setting on the PS3 that I'm not seeing? I know I can avoid this by hitting the zoom mode on the TV, but that defeats the purpose. Thanks everybody...side note, I'm still very happy with this TV.

JA
post #1458 of 1760
Quote:
Originally Posted by juanabove View Post

Hey Everybody....I was wondering if someone can help me figure something out and I apologize if this was already covered. I have a PS3 as a blue-ray player and, of course this 65 inch Olevia TV. I rented I Am Legend and Indiana Jones both on Blu-Ray and I'm wondering why both these titles still have the black bars above and below the picture. Is this not the reason why we all upgraded to wide screen TVs??? Is there a setting on the PS3 that I'm not seeing? I know I can avoid this by hitting the zoom mode on the TV, but that defeats the purpose. Thanks everybody...side note, I'm still very happy with this TV.

JA

You might want to check this article out: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aspect_ratio_(image), especially this part: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aspect_...e)#Why_16:9.3F
The 16:9 widescreen format was created as a compromise between the most common formats that content was produced in, but in reality, there are multiple common widescreen aspect ratios. Standard def TV is 4:3, HDTV is 16:9, and some movies are 1.85:1 (which is very close to 16:9, since that's 1.77...:1). If their original aspect ratio is kept and they aren't scaled with the sides slightly cropped, those 1.85:1 movies will have very thin black bars on the top and bottom on a 16:9 screen. However, a lot of other movies - especially more epic movies - are filmed in a much wider format like 2.39:1, resulting in larger bars at the top and bottom of the screen.

If HDTV manufacturers and standards organizations and such wanted, they could have made the HDTV format 2.39:1 to match the widest common film format. However, 1.85:1 films would have had pretty large black bars on the side of the image, and 4:3 content would have had gigantic black bars on the sides (much larger than now). In addition, it is very unlikely that TV shows would have been recorded in a 2.39:1 format, just because it's so particularly wide...and so they probably would have been recorded in something like a 16:9 format anyway, and that would have resulted in black bars on the sides when watching even HDTV content.

Short answer: Some film formats are significantly wider than 16:9.
post #1459 of 1760
Quote:
Originally Posted by UnrealMiniMe View Post

You might want to check this article out: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aspect_ratio_(image), especially this part: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aspect_...e)#Why_16:9.3F
The 16:9 widescreen format was created as a compromise between the most common formats that content was produced in, but in reality, there are multiple common widescreen aspect ratios. Standard def TV is 4:3, HDTV is 16:9, and some movies are 1.85:1 (which is very close to 16:9, since that's 1.77...:1). If their original aspect ratio is kept and they aren't scaled with the sides slightly cropped, those 1.85:1 movies will have very thin black bars on the top and bottom on a 16:9 screen. However, a lot of other movies - especially more epic movies - are filmed in a much wider format like 2.39:1, resulting in larger bars at the top and bottom of the screen.

If HDTV manufacturers and standards organizations and such wanted, they could have made the HDTV format 2.39:1 to match the widest common film format. However, 1.85:1 films would have had pretty large black bars on the side of the image, and 4:3 content would have had gigantic black bars on the sides (much larger than now). In addition, it is very unlikely that TV shows would have been recorded in a 2.39:1 format, just because it's so particularly wide...and so they probably would have been recorded in something like a 16:9 format anyway, and that would have resulted in black bars on the sides when watching even HDTV content.

Short answer: Some film formats are significantly wider than 16:9.

This is the exactly what I was looking for...Thank you for taking the time to "school" me. Have a wonderful holiday UnrealMiniMe.

JA
post #1460 of 1760
I've been emailing back and forth with Olevia for the past week or so about the red trails and slow pixel response time. As someone earlier in the thread had suggested, I also brought up whether improved overdrive might be possible and mentioned that the Sharp sets with the same panel didn't seem to exhibit the same problems. Most of that time was spent by them blaming source material and such, but I finally got it elevated to a senior tech who threw this nugget in amidst the excuses:

Quote:


Further, ongoing organizational changes limit us from making hardware changes to any of our TV. Pixel response time in the panel is comparable, but overdrive technology is always pretty ush-hush. With the limited amount of panel manufacturers, overdrive technology is a major player in maintaining competitive advantage. It is expected that Sharp be able to optimize pixel response better than any other manufacturer using the same panel.

Although Olevia may be able to fine-tune the TV to limit trailing in the future, for the moment it not in the cards. With the introduction of the 120Hz processor, optimization at 60Hz will not be very common in the industry. And, until media producers and the consumer electronics industry get on the same page, there will always be issues such as this.

So, I wouldn't hold my breath, but it probably wouldn't hurt if more of us bugged them.
post #1461 of 1760
Hey- I have been reading about the olevia 65 inch LCD being on cleareance at th $2200-$2300 dollar range. Is there a place I can still order this set for this price? or even slightly higher?

Tuan
post #1462 of 1760
Good luck finding one. Try Sams Club auctions, you can find a link in some of the earliers postings on this thread. Woot.com had some for a while, but I think they are done.
post #1463 of 1760
9 months now and this baby still has not fallen off the wall
post #1464 of 1760
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoCaboNow View Post

9 months now and this baby still has not fallen off the wall

Yeah, but here is his house!

post #1465 of 1760
^^^ hahah! Nice one!
post #1466 of 1760
Quote:
Originally Posted by tuanat View Post

Hey- I have been reading about the olevia 65 inch LCD being on cleareance at th $2200-$2300 dollar range. Is there a place I can still order this set for this price? or even slightly higher?

Tuan

We'll sell you our's at 2200 plus shipping if you interested. Bought in August and still has 7 months of factory Olevia warranty on it. However the TV has only been used since December as it was a house warming/Christmas gift given by our family. The TV still has the plastic around the entire border of the unit and We have all the original packing and box. Also the TV will be shipped on an industial pallet to insure safe transport. Need to replace carpet in the house that is the ONLY reason I would every part with this bye the way. Let me know.
post #1467 of 1760
An update to my ongoing tech support issues with banding on this 265T set:

I returned it to Sam's club, one day before the warranty was to expire this weekend.

The Olevia tech support is completely purged and only consist of front line grunts spitting out disingenuous statements to calm nerves of irate customers. Two weeks ago I was supposed to get a call back from "2nd level" support because after three previous calls (over the span of a month), I was told by their front line guys that "no 2nd level support engineers are available at the time" and that I should call back later. Not once did I ever receive a call back.

I did have my original panel replaced last year due to banding (with much hassle), however I soon realized the replacement set had even worse dark vertical banding bars (it was also manufactured earlier than the 1st panel). After months of getting the run around about getting a replacement, one front line grunt had the nerve to say to me that a replacement set only has a 90 day warranty (not factoring that I purchased a new set with a 1 year warranty that specifically states a replacement set either has a 90 day factory warranty OR the remainder of days on the original warranty - WHICHEVER IS LONGER). When I painted a scenario of somebody buying a new set only to have it die the next day and then replaced, the poor grunt fumbled words but I think expressed that the 90 day rule still applied. In other words, completely clueless.

Anyway, it was a lot of screen real estate for cheap, and aside from the banding it was a great experience for the price. I am forever grateful I purchased this set from Sam's club and not from an online vendor. There was ZERO hassle in returning this set and they posted my original purchase price back to a debit card.

My advice for anybody considering this set is to buy it from a reputable retail source that has an outstanding return/replacement policy like Sam’s Club because it is very doubtful you will get any support from Olevia (which BTW for those not keeping up in the thread are in CHAPTER 11 bankruptcy), much less get a repair/replacement.

Now I have a LN55A950 and so far so good!
post #1468 of 1760
I have always thought that the zipper was the greatest invention on earth. Now I am changing my belief. I purchased the Harmony 620 from Sams Club for $80. Wow Wow Wow.!!!!!! As most know trying to get your Olevia remote to work with the Dish Network remote or vice versa, is not possible.

The Harmony 620 works fabulously. So easy to set up on your computer.....one button turns on the 265T, the sound system, and the dish network......one button turns them all off......same thing with the DVD........no more using 5 different devices......i thought it would be a nightmare with the Olevia TV, but it had all the codes etc......i was worried at first since it didn't have Olevia listed as a brand, but it was actually under Syntax Brillian, the manufacturer........Buy it Buy it Buy it........Awesome.......

The TV is still working awesome.....just took a couple units to get it right.
post #1469 of 1760
The Harmony remotes also will directly address and directly switch between all the inputs on the 265. This obsoletes the switching through all the inputs to find what you are looking for. I have the Harmony 880, and highly recommend it for Olevia owners. (I bought for $97 shipped from Amazon last April. I was glad I bought new when it failed in September, and Logitech sent me a whole new unit. Had I bought a refurb, the 90 day refurb warranty would have expired.)
post #1470 of 1760
I think I'm going to get me a Harmony remote since the horrific nature of the one shipped degrades the whole channel surfing. Also I wonder if upgrading the power supply would help with the ghosting, I remember someone had theirs fixed and said they really felt that the panel was faster then before. If it has a borderline cheap power supply(and it does) I wonder if a HQ power supply would help.
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