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Olevia 65 inch 1080p lcd - Page 52

post #1531 of 1752
Quote:
Originally Posted by hdtv4xmas View Post

The website has been taken down. Not that it was of any value anyway! I hope everyone has their latest firmware downloaded and saved in a secure way (just in case).

Checked today and noted the Olevia website is back up and operating. Same site as before - even quotes a warranty site? Wonder if Emerson is taking over servicing and parts.
post #1532 of 1752
Well...I now have my broken Olevia 65" T-11 back from the local repair guy. I purchased a new Samsung 63" with the insurance money. I really hate to throw the Olevia away because I am 90% sure that the issue is just the power supply but nobody can purchase repair parts. There is a small chance it would be the main board but it is unlikely. The power supply used to chirp like a cricket then suddenly the chirp changed frequency and now it wont power on fully. I am not going to try to ship this to CA for repair with no estimate on repair costs. I read that the LCD panel was made by SHARP. I am in Springfield MO. If anyone cracks their LCD screen let me know. There is not a thing wrong with the panel on mine. Seems like such a waste to trash it.

Mark
post #1533 of 1752
Well the only last result I could even think of would be to phone Sharp and see if the sell power supplies to their 65 inches LCDs from a few years back - basically this very panel, If you could get a part number for that power supply and a part number for the Olivia power supply and they match you'd be in heaven or if they look and bolt in basically the same. Since you Olivia is almost worthless, you could try to do it yourself. Order the Sharp 65 power supply, if its not a fit you can return it for a refund, sound like it cost you $250 even at that though. I do recall gripeing really bad about the warranty saying they would pick the tv up even though after bankruptcy they said they wouldn't eventually they said ok were sending someone to pick it up, mine works though other than banding so I decided to keep it. Bitch long and hard and say the "WARRANTY SAYS YOU"LL COME GET IT" - never back off that statement - after 10 minutes with me they said OK you'll be contacted soon, 3 months latter someone was on the way to get it. By the way you Sammy is a plasma hows that looking? I'm thinking of getting a 58" Plasma.
post #1534 of 1752
Quote:
Originally Posted by markdonnell1975 View Post

Well...I now have my broken Olevia 65" T-11 back from the local repair guy. I purchased a new Samsung 63" with the insurance money. I really hate to throw the Olevia away because I am 90% sure that the issue is just the power supply but nobody can purchase repair parts. There is a small chance it would be the main board but it is unlikely. The power supply used to chirp like a cricket then suddenly the chirp changed frequency and now it wont power on fully. I am not going to try to ship this to CA for repair with no estimate on repair costs. I read that the LCD panel was made by SHARP. I am in Springfield MO. If anyone cracks their LCD screen let me know. There is not a thing wrong with the panel on mine. Seems like such a waste to trash it.

Mark

Mark, has anybody also tried contacting Taiwan Kolin Co., the company
Syntax contracted with to actually make parts and/or sets (per the
bankruptcy docs...) for parts?? Kind of a stretch, but worth checking into.
Code:
http://www.kolin.com.tw/kolinenglish/content/products/pro_1a.asp?B1c1_sn=1&B1c2_sn=1&B1b_sn=87
( had to code that because of the 3-post rule, sorry, please cut and paste)

Definitely don't toss that set (who could??? takes 4 people...lol...)

Any hardcore electronics geek can test/repair that power supply as-is, so
try to find somebody like that for repair (electronics forums),and that also might be a good option to Craigslist the entire set to one of those guys too..
post #1535 of 1752
Thanks. I fired off an e-mail to Kolin to see if I can buy a main board. From what I can tell the power supply/inverter or the main board is what goes bad most of the time. We will see what happens. I did purchase a power supply/inverter from China. Let me tell you it was a pain in the aXX. I found the part but it was on a chinese website PAIPAI.com all in chinese. I found a agent in china that will purchase for you and ship it to you for a fee. Its going to cost me about $100 to try it but I figure its worth the gamble. Maybe I will get lucky.
post #1536 of 1752
UPDATE: I pulled the back panel off of the TV over the weekend. 50+ screws later I got into the back. I will take some pictures and post them if anyone is curious what it looks like. To my surprise there are 2 power supplies on the back of this thing. They are both identical. I am hoping only 1 is bad and I will just have to put in the new one on one side first and try it...then the other if it doesn't fix it. Kind of a bummer. When I turn on the switch on the back the main board has a red light that glows so it is at least getting some power. When I try to power the TV on there are about 5 green lights that come on on the main board but still no screen activity. I went ahead and switched places with the power supplies that were there. I wanted to see if it behaved differently because I thought maybe they powered different things in the TV. The TV acted the same after I switched places. I am now hoping that they both work together and wont work properly unless both are outputting at the same time. I should have my replacement power supply this week. Once I get it I will see what happens.
post #1537 of 1752
Mark.

My fingers are crossed for you.

A buddy of mine has the identical problem as you.He is in search for parts To repair but has struck out so far.

I'll check back to see if you have updated.

If its not to much to ask could you shoot me Pm for a heads up when you do update.

Thanks for all your hard work.

Murphy
post #1538 of 1752
Quote:
Originally Posted by markdonnell1975 View Post

UPDATE: I pulled the back panel off of the TV over the weekend. 50+ screws later I got into the back. I will take some pictures and post them if anyone is curious what it looks like. To my surprise there are 2 power supplies on the back of this thing. They are both identical. I am hoping only 1 is bad and I will just have to put in the new one on one side first and try it...then the other if it doesn't fix it. Kind of a bummer. When I turn on the switch on the back the main board has a red light that glows so it is at least getting some power. When I try to power the TV on there are about 5 green lights that come on on the main board but still no screen activity. I went ahead and switched places with the power supplies that were there. I wanted to see if it behaved differently because I thought maybe they powered different things in the TV. The TV acted the same after I switched places. I am now hoping that they both work together and wont work properly unless both are outputting at the same time. I should have my replacement power supply this week. Once I get it I will see what happens.

I hope I never need it, but I would like to see your pictures. In case anyone else needs the pictures in the future, would also be a good reason to post them.
Thanks in advance.

Oh by the way, you may be able to collect your insurance deductible from your credit card. There is however a 60 day notification clause on mine, and on many others. So, you may want to check out that possibility. Just a suggestion.
post #1539 of 1752
I will try to take some pics tonight. Its really not that complicated back there but there are a lot of LCD controller boards around the panel. I guess thats due to the size of the panel. All of those parts look like they are labeled "sharp" so maybe they are better quality parts. The replacement power supply cleared US customs yesterday so maybe I will get it this week. It was really a fluke that I found it. The guy in China only had one and I really have no guarantee that it works. He sold a lot of LCD parts online so hopefully its a working part but there is no telling. I have scoured the earth for a mainboard but there isnt one anywhere I can find. I have no way to diagnose what is not working but I figured I would gamble a couple hundred dollars if I could find the most common parts that seem to go bad on this TV.
post #1540 of 1752
Hey everyone! Been reading this forum for a while and wanted to jump in on this discussion and hopefully get some others opinions on the problem I'm having with my 265tfhd.

I'm getting some pretty bad smears whenever a black color goes over a lighter (most notably tan) color. An example would be the pupils of peoples eyes leaving tracers as the person moves. Definitely does not act like a 6ms response time. Happens on all inputs, regardless of source.

I've spoken with a tech through Amergence and he led me to believe that the mainboard needs to be replaced. Of course they wont sell me one (I'm more than technically inclined to replace it myself) and they want $1500.00 to ship and repair it. Since the mainboard seems to be the hardest of all parts to find for this TV, anyone else have thoughts to confirm or dispute needing to replace it?

Also I've tried to contact the Kolin Group as suggested above but the contact form on their website seems to be broken. It gives some error when I try to send but it is in Chinese or Taiwanese or something and I cant tell if it sent or not. Anyone else have success in contacting them at all? Everything I've read suggests that the 65" they make is the same as the 265tfhd.

Thanks in advance for everyones help! This forum has been THE best place I've found for info about this TV!

Rob
post #1541 of 1752
Status Update: I received the replacement power supply from China yesterday. I systematically tried replacing each power supply with and and then tried every combination of the 3 in the 2 slots where they go. The TV responded the same way regardless of which ones I used. The TV attempts to power on and the blue light on the front goes off...but I am unable to get any screen activity of any kind. When the power switch on the back is turned on a red light on the main board shows power. When I turn on the TV 9 green lights and another red light come on on the board but alas...no screen activity. I hate to just start buying random parts for the TV but I'm not sure what to do next. I will see if I can find a mainboard in the future if not I guess I will just part the thing out on ebay.
post #1542 of 1752
It just occurred to me that my one year warranty just expired (or close to). I bought the TV from Woot a year ago. So far so good... knock on wood!
post #1543 of 1752
Quote:
Originally Posted by waltzonice View Post

It just occurred to me that my one year warranty just expired (or close to). I bought the TV from Woot a year ago. So far so good... knock on wood!

If memory serves, Woot sold 811 - 265T FHD TVs on 8-25-2008. Your "one year warranty" has already been worthless for 6 months or more. Woot also was hawking the Square Trade Warranty in that listing. So, your warranty recourse is limited to Square Trade if you bought that, or your credit card if YMMV does not get you.

This would be a good time to get out your credit card, and call the number on the back, and ask them if they double manufacturers warranties. Chase Visa does, and they also offer the option to PURCHASE AN ADDITIONAL ONE, TWO OR THREE YEARS OF WARRANTY COVERAGE AT ANY TIME PRIOR TO THE EXPIRATION OF THE MANUFACTURERS, AND THE EXTENDED CHASE WARRANTY. Per the Chase CS agent, this gives you a good opportunity to see if you really need an extended warranty.
post #1544 of 1752
Quote:
Originally Posted by markdonnell1975 View Post

Status Update: I received the replacement power supply from China yesterday. I systematically tried replacing each power supply with and and then tried every combination of the 3 in the 2 slots where they go. The TV responded the same way regardless of which ones I used. The TV attempts to power on and the blue light on the front goes off...but I am unable to get any screen activity of any kind. When the power switch on the back is turned on a red light on the main board shows power. When I turn on the TV 9 green lights and another red light come on on the board but alas...no screen activity. I hate to just start buying random parts for the TV but I'm not sure what to do next. I will see if I can find a mainboard in the future if not I guess I will just part the thing out on ebay.

There's a saying in the repair business, You can't fix something by throwing parts at it, you have to have a more than a general idae of where to look and what to do. You made a great effort and made a shot a fixing it, now its time to bail and look at warranties or sell it to someone who thinks they can fix it. Kick ass TV's are in the $850 for 50 inches 1080P this TV has motion blur anyway, but its time to kick this tv to the curb. Mine still works but I've never been happy with my purchase because of the blur and banding. I intend to have it fully out of my house in the next 3 months even if I have to sell it dirt cheap its leaving my house, And Im going to probably a plasma. I'm definitely still love the front projection DLP's and some of the new 1080P DLP's are looking very sweet for me to replace my Mits HC3000 720P DLP that dominates my viewing time compared to the Olevia LCD.
post #1545 of 1752
I have had mine for a year and a half now with 18 months left on the extended warranty. No problems - but this forum really makes me nervous. This tv is so dang heavy and I have in my thrid floor bedroom...No more big tv's from now on. I am only getting projectors.
post #1546 of 1752
I am going to keep a look out for a main board online or maybe find someone that has cracked the LCD screen on there's and work a deal. I will say the new 63" samsung plazma on the wall puts off a great picture. No ghosting of any kind. Thank god for homeowners insurance.
post #1547 of 1752
Quote:
Originally Posted by rrhomes View Post

Kick ass TV's are in the $850 for 50 inches 1080P this TV has motion blur anyway, but its time to kick this tv to the curb. Mine still works but I've never been happy with my purchase because of the blur and banding. I intend to have it fully out of my house in the next 3 months even if I have to sell it dirt cheap its leaving my house, And Im going to probably a plasma.

But there's currently so few choices in 65"+ flat panel category. And none available close to the price I got my Olevia for. I did a quick search and only found one 65" plasma that is under $3k. Overall I'm still pretty happy with my Olevia, and can live with the flaws until it breaks. Hopefully by then, there will be more replacement options available for me.
post #1548 of 1752
I have 92" on Mits HC3000 720P DLP and it throws one hell of a image and I watch it way more than my 65 LCD, its all preference of course, but there are great ways to satisfy your wants. I'm 100% going to be buying in this 1080P DLP front projection price war, by January you can bet that some killer PJ's can be had for $1,000. There are some 58" Plasmas that are in the $1,800 range Panansonic and Samsungs that are incredible plasma's. The Olevia is a buy if all things work some people don't have the motion blur.


If you pop into this forum and you don't have an extended warranty for your Olevia you need to buy one from SquareTrade or another after market. If you have never bought from SquareTrade buy a warratanty for your PSP(or whatever) for a small amount like $8 and they will email you a coupon for 1/2 off ther next warranty you buy, then warranty you Olevia for about $90 as opposed to full price which is $180ish. The T12 slim plastic black bezel I believe had the power supply corrected and its mostly T11(aluminum bezel)'s that fail the power supply. The T12 had much poorer performing panel than the T11's. I have a T12 I'm in Oklahoma and I have it warrantied for 2 more years if anyone want to make me an offer and come pick it up I'll listen.
post #1549 of 1752
Quote:
Originally Posted by rrhomes View Post

If you pop into this forum and you don't have an extended warranty for your Olevia you need to buy one from SquareTrade or another after market.

Square trade allows purchase of warranties outside of 60 days or so?

Quote:


The T12 slim plastic black bezel I believe had the power supply corrected and its mostly T11(aluminum bezel)'s that fail the power supply. The T12 had much poorer performing panel than the T11's.

I am having a hard time finding this type of info (or any other tyoe of technical info for that matter). Where is it coming from?
post #1550 of 1752
I still really like the panel. I have the plastic bezel unit. FW ends in a A17. I mounted my TV and can't really see the serial to d/l the latest, but according to my research the A17 was the latest.

I adjusted the contrast, brightness, saturation, etc through the panel though using Spears&Munsil Blu-Ray calibration disc available on Amazon. I set the Blu-Ray in "HD" inputs in source mode at 1X1. Once in a while I while watch it in game mode for PiP and noise reduction OFF. I haven't watched in gaming mode enough to see a noticeable difference.

I recently (2 days ago) turned off all the extra settings like noise reduction, cinemotion, cue, all that seemed relevant and let my blu-ray player handle everything. By turning off the panels user enabled features, I am trying to isolate the source of the occasional motion blur/smear that I can see in sources. When I actively look for fast motion, I can't see the blur. Its on movement which I wouldn't expect the lag of the panel. After another couple of viewings, I'll try to update my anecdotal results. I may try the lag test again if I have some time.

I have played around a bit with lowering the backlight for all room types (and added "bias" lighting).

I haven't seen the red trails since I last posted about it (34s of a year ago) and it seemed source related (a particular cable channel) to me. Once in a blue moon, I get a source input change that shows 3 greenish squares along the bottom. Very rare for me now, but usually its a composite (wii) input and a input or power cycle resolves it.

I am not really using it for generic TV watching anymore for reasons other than performance of the panel. I usually use an AVR for audio, however, I did try "wide sound" (TV speakers from SD TV tuner source/no AVR) and I was pretty impressed. It did actually sound like audio was coming from the side walls.

I do get the loud crack noise every once in a while that makes me shudder, but usually the audio obscures it.

In trying to figure out what the marketing jargon on the stickers that line this panel and the menu system, I have come across the following results:

Cinemotion & Cue related to HQV Film Cadencing and Video/Film Detection

Big Picture Technology(TM) delivers up to 11% more of the digital broadcast image and up to 37% more of analog images without distortion so viewers can see more of the picture displayed on each side of the TV.

Is this crop? related and processing on the uncropped image? Apparently cropping for a tuner source is different that a non-tuner source.

Director's Image(TM) enables viewers to see realistic content in the same way that the director intended images to be displayed. Director's Image features calibrated color temperature (6500 K) at 2.2 gamma, red/green/blue gain controls and offsets, optimized gray scales, black level adjustment for NTSC and ATSC, full range contrast adjustment, color and tint colors for red/blue saturation and sharpness.

-"factory calibrated default values" and settings adjustment in the hidden menu, 4:4:4 color sampling, and general settings

D2Audio's patented Intelligent Digital Amplifier(TM) delivers sophisticated sound quality and an immersive listening experience

-treble, bass, synch, wide sound and iDiva settings, etc.

I just looked dipped back into the manual again. I used to use a Component non upscaling dvd player (Jamo DMR60) and it suggests "YPbPr is set at default to best perform with FHD 1080p content, set Input to "Interlace DVD" for best performance with regular 480i and 480p content". Since it was a progressive DVD player, i had used mode "Progressive DVD". I thought the difference between 480p and 480i refers to interlacing...

On another thread there is mention that "user mode" is for de-interlacing. I can't tell if that means no de-interlacing or yes de-interlacing.

However nothing is mentioned for "Picture Mode -Input" for any other source.

I wanted a FP before I bought this, but this has been a pretty good unit. In my opinion, as a 2007 model year unit (released in 2006), its held its own.

Its a shame power supply issues are disabling these units, and I keep my fingers crossed every time I hit the power button that it boots up.
post #1551 of 1752
hey does anybody have the firmware version 265T-T11-V63.7.7 ?
i've had my tv since sept. 08. everything works fine. i paid 2,121 for it. the guy that helped me load it told me it was the last one and i needed to check back before 30 days was up because the display would be reduced. well i did and the price was dropped to 1,475. so i got a 650 refund. with the refund i got a xbox 360. it plays great. no lag or blur. i love this tv and would strongly recommend it. i know they say if it aint broke don't fix it. well i can't help it. i know people say they haven't noticed any difference with a firmware update but i want it. so if anybody has it please send me copy. THANKS
post #1552 of 1752
you should be able to download it off of olevia's site with the sn on the back of the panel.
post #1553 of 1752
Quote:
Originally Posted by global_dev View Post

you should be able to download it off of olevia's site with the sn on the back of the panel.

The on again off, again Olevia web site is off again. However, I do not believe that firmware downloads have worked in months.
post #1554 of 1752
the websites down. thats why i'm hoping somebody has it.
post #1555 of 1752
sorry, tbonenga, I have scoured the web also looking for it, since I hung the panel and didn't have access to d/l a copy. I was hoping someone could pm the f/w and the associated md5 hash.
post #1556 of 1752
Anecdotal Update on "motion blur" or refresh. I just watched "Chronicles of Narnia: Prince Caspian" on BD at 1:1, with no changes from my previous post above settings-wise. The first 5 minutes or so are filled with multiple instances of blur. The initial view of head covering movement of a peraon from hallway stairs into main room (wasn't as bad the second time I watched the scene) and moments later all of the horses galloping. Their legs are bad. It seems to occur with overall dark areas or scenes. during daylight sword fights and other such more contrasted scenes, i didn't see it. Since I have no other BD player or HD panel. i have no way to compare results. However, I feel i did feel i saw some compression in certain panorama landscape views. The reviews say the PQ is outstanding for this release.

The Disney Earth BD preview seemed to show no blur whatsoever. frustrating to say the least. I watched the preview 3x to really look for any instances of something.

edit: just watched Quantum of Solace BD and saw none of the blur that was visible above and there were some pretty dark scenes and fast motion, where i expected to see the blur.

again.. frustrating
post #1557 of 1752
TV Update: A main board finally showed up on ebay and I bought it today. I hope to have it in a few days. I will swap it and see if it fixes it. Since the new power supply didnt change anything this is the next logical culprit from what I have scoured from the internet. If this doesn't fix it at least all the other parts are made by sharp and I can find them easier. Unfortunately I won't know where to go after this but maybe I can get lucky.
post #1558 of 1752
Good luck!
post #1559 of 1752
Oh Lord. Something just occurred to me. The mainboard I purchased was from a 747I (they have the same board as the 265T) but I completely blanked on the fact that the board will have the firmware for a 47" TV. Does anybody happen to have any firmware version for the 265T still? I am hoping that one of you loyal 65 owners happened to save it. The website is down and may never come back up......

Hopefully it will at least display so I could update it......

mark
post #1560 of 1752
a guy on the 747i thread has the last firmware ......................
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