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Official Pioneer Kuro Pictures Thread....... - Page 218

post #6511 of 7300
I finally decided to do the full reset on my 5020 vs the partial reset i did over a year ago, because the red tint was coming back. I set everything back to factory levels, and did the reset. The red tint is completely gone. I didn't really have to touch YKNOFS1D as i didn't have any magenta misfires or YKNOFSD1D OR YKNOFSAD. However, I did have to raise RSTP close to what I had after the first reset due to dark blotches(clouding) and IR on a near black screen. When I raised it, it disappeared and my blacks did not turn red. I did raise the ABL setting form 103 to 160 per pg_ice suggestion, and the image really popped after that, especially while watching hockey. It really eliminated the DSE with the white background. I had to go back in and adjust contrast, etc after that and now looks like it's brand new. Monitored temperature while watching hockey game with higher ABL, but it only got up to about 45C, which is not close to the 65C max.
Edited by wxman - 12/21/13 at 12:49am
post #6512 of 7300
YKNOFS1D isn't for magenta misfires. Better off posting this kind of stuff on the red tint thread.
post #6513 of 7300
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stu03 View Post

YKNOFS1D isn't for magenta misfires. Better off posting this kind of stuff on the red tint thread.

Thanks Stu03. I put the post in the red tint thread. Sorry, I meant VOLSUS not YKNOFS1D.
post #6514 of 7300
Quote:
Originally Posted by wxman View Post

Thanks Stu03. I put the post in the red tint thread. Sorry, I meant VOLSUS not YKNOFS1D.

you can edit posts also smile.gif
great that it worked!

whats great when you raise abl is that you dont need a super high contrast (due to the less apl dimming) to get the pop in the picture and colors.
i mostly use the ISF night at 125cd/m2 (contrast at 30)

i have never touched RSTP
but if you can get rid of the dark blotches? i will try it
i have some of them from time to time.
mostly when i put up the menu or change content.
i never see them on regular viewing
Edited by pg_ice - 12/21/13 at 8:54am
post #6515 of 7300
Anyway what's the point in completing a reset of the pulse meter - and then messing/raising it afterwards. The answer doesn’t lie in that voltage for that issue, its been spoken about many times but obviously ignored - but this isn't the place to discuss it tbh.

Each to their own with their own models but my KRP is mega bright so much so in a bright lit room Pure mode at contrast 36 is enough. If things needed more i would use a tweaked Standard, User or Sports mode until it's ISF'D. The way i look at it is if it doesn't look natural like it would be in real life then whats the point, but that's me
post #6516 of 7300
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stu03 View Post

but my KRP is mega bright so much so in a bright lit room Pure mode at contrast 36 is enough.

you still have alot of APL dimming
look at an LCD LED tv and you will see that your KRP isnt that bright in some low apl scenes.
hockey or some winter skiing is where you see it most.

also colors doesnt like apl dimming,they look washed out.

you need to test things out
you need to look at the competitors tvs
then you will get a clear picture how your tv stands.

if i would been stucked in a cave for the last 5 years maybe i also would think that my Kuro was the best smile.gif
Edited by pg_ice - 12/21/13 at 10:21am
post #6517 of 7300
But that's the thing though PG. Of course I've kept an eye out for the competition in display's over the years - plasma and LED's. Seen plenty in real life also.

If i wanted a LED LCD as a serious display, or another plasma - i would already have one.

You have only had a plasma (KURO) for what - three weeks. Your lx5090 is driven differently to a KRP. You seem to think all Kuro's are identical in every way. Not true.

I wouldn't call my bright bedroom a cave (well, not until the blinds are pulled anyway)

My ABL doesn't need adjusted.

For example if i use Standard mode at contrast 38 or 40 - it won't dip until i raise contrast until incorrect (clipping) levels. But then ISF would fix that along with any ABL adjustments (then) if required.

But i don't need standard, user or sport mode, it's why i use Pure mode at a max of contrast 36 during the day and in the dark a lot less than that. But no one has to watch the screen except for me or my partner or son.

:EDIT:

Although i have always said i would have an absolutely maxed out ISF day mode just to have there although i doubt i would ever use it. Be more as an experiment to see how high it could go without clipping more than a serious everyday usage
Edited by Stu03 - 12/21/13 at 11:28am
post #6518 of 7300
PG. I like you, you seem like a cool guy, but you have no right to tell anyone "give it a break." The same can be said for you. I don't understand how two people are in the middle of discussing something then one just dismisses the other persons point. Why don't you address your point instead of trying to end the discussion. I'm not taking any sides, i just hate when people have conversations like that.


With that said, i really don't get the big deal about ABL and panel brightness. I came from an LCD, which i still use today, to a plasma. Never once have i thought plasmas have limited brightness. I see nothing inferior with brightness from my plasma compared to my LCD. Compared to any LCD that i've seen over the years. I just don't notice this ABL people talk about when i watch TV. Im satisfied with the brightness i have. It's more than enough. My eyes actually get fatigued in a dark room on bright scenes with settings of contrast at 40, and DRE set to low. Anything brighter makes zero sense. I have to revert back to D-Nice's original settings with it set to 37 and DRE off.

If brightness is so important to you, instead of fiddling in the service menu trying to to replicate an LCD, why don't you just buy one? Im sure you can find a sharp elite somewhere.
post #6519 of 7300
Ha ha, i love it, just don't get like the uk forum eh boys.

And i can't get this picture taking shenanigans correct mad.gif.

There is no Sharp Elites in Europe, they were North America only.
Edited by RobMacLennan - 12/22/13 at 2:26am
post #6520 of 7300
I do agree that raising the ABL does make the image looks better. Watched a movie last night and was impressed. You won't notice it during dark scenes, since ABL really isnt needed, but for brighter scenes, it really makes the image pop. If you like hockey, the image will be much brighter. The ice doesn't look so dull anymore. I did monitor the temperature on the set. After 5 hours of watching, the temperature reached about 52C. Normally I don't watch spend 5 hours watching my 5020, so I'm not too worried about raising the ABL causing issues.
post #6521 of 7300
Merry Christmas everyone !!!

Be drunk and merry,

Many happy returns

wink.gif
post #6522 of 7300
Merry XMAS too Stuey, i'm half baked already lol.

Most of this lot will be celebrating a few hours after us lad.

Happy Christmas all smile.gif.
post #6523 of 7300
merry christmas rob, and stu, and all at avs:)
post #6524 of 7300
Merry Christmas to All, and To All a Good Night! smile.gif
post #6525 of 7300
Here's hoping for a Red Ryder BB gun! Just don't shoot your eye out. tongue.gif Merry Christmas!
post #6526 of 7300
Quote:
Originally Posted by RobMacLennan View Post

Merry XMAS too Stuey, i'm half baked already lol.

Most of this lot will be celebrating a few hours after us lad.

Happy Christmas all smile.gif.

I can't remember going to my bed last night lol.
Cider, vodka, lager you name it.

Nursing a few baileys on the rocks atm before i get cracked into the Jack Daniels honey on the rocks smile.gif

Cheers
post #6527 of 7300
Quote:
Originally Posted by pg_ice View Post

does anyone know if there is a setting in the servicemenu that can increase the color gamut even more for colorspace 1?
i want atleast Adobe RGB colors.
as it is now its not quite there with the greens and reds.
something must control the gamut as you can decrease it from colorspace 1 to colorspace 2.
or should i be the first to test it once again smile.gif?
could we get adobe rgb colors or even a wider colorspace on the Kuros,then they should match the new OLEDs colors.
Color gamut is a physical property of the display. Colorspace 1 "disables" the color management system and displays the most saturated reds, greens, and blues that the panel's phosphors can create.
Colorspace 2 uses a color management system to restrict the panel's native gamut to the BT.709 specifications.

You can restrict the color gamut, but you cannot expand it beyond its limits. For Adobe RGB or wider, you will have to look into LED, OLED, or projectors.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stu03 View Post

Yes power conditioning etc clears/cleans/brightens/sharpens up the image greatly at times. Depending on the quality of the power coming through the wall of course but it helps anyway it certainly helped here
If it makes a difference, something in your display chain is faulty. Things like image sharpness are determined by the source material and the display settings. Things like dithering are how the panel draws its image. "Clean power" should have zero effect on these characteristics.
Perhaps if you are using old analog gear it might make a difference, but that still sounds like faulty hardware to me.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pg_ice View Post

the banding in the color isnt on the tv its from the camera..dont know why it showed up
The banding is in the source material - being a highly compressed YouTube clip.
If you are not normally seeing it on your panel, the amount of dithering the Kuro uses must be masking it.

With a longer exposure on the camera, the dither noise is hidden in the photograph (similar principle to taking multiple shots of an image to remove noise for astrophotography, but in reverse) which makes the banding easier to see.
post #6528 of 7300
I just had a look on the BD of " Elysium " mastered in 4K SMBV Sony ...
Waiting to see the film and the shoter :



Sends its already serious on the Kuro is 2K ais little I saw on a chapter ... wink.gif
post #6529 of 7300
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chronoptimist View Post

Color gamut is a physical property of the display. Colorspace 1 "disables" the color management system and displays the most saturated reds, greens, and blues that the panel's phosphors can create.
Colorspace 2 uses a color management system to restrict the panel's native gamut to the BT.709 specifications.

You can restrict the color gamut, but you cannot expand it beyond its limits. For Adobe RGB or wider, you will have to look into LED, OLED, or projectors.
If it makes a difference, something in your display chain is faulty. Things like image sharpness are determined by the source material and the display settings. Things like dithering are how the panel draws its image. "Clean power" should have zero effect on these characteristics.
Perhaps if you are using old analog gear it might make a difference, but that still sounds like faulty hardware to me.

The banding is in the source material - being a highly compressed YouTube clip.
If you are not normally seeing it on your panel, the amount of dithering the Kuro uses must be masking it.

With a longer exposure on the camera, the dither noise is hidden in the photograph (similar principle to taking multiple shots of an image to remove noise for astrophotography, but in reverse) which makes the banding easier to see.

Dithering is only visible in my KURO less than three inches. Some people see PWM and "think" dithering. Again on the KRP500 pwm is at an absolute minimum and along with the minimalist dithering makes it officially the cleanest plasma i have ever seen.

Nothing wrong with the components - absolutely everything wrong with the dirty power coming through the wall though. If i had it my way i would be running through a mains transformer but my upgrades are working well as it is.

I run upgraded fuses as well.

If you don't think dirty power doesn't makes a blind bit of difference to 'perceived sharpness', image clarity, brightness perception and general clarity then i must assume you are from the every HDMI cable is the exactly same brigade.

Perhaps read some more into it to see how it works.
post #6530 of 7300
Quote:
Originally Posted by Urga View Post

I just had a look on the BD of " Elysium " mastered in 4K SMBV Sony ...
Waiting to see the film and the shoter :

where did you got the mastered in 4k version?
or isn't it released yet?

more masterd in 4k movies to the people! smile.gif
blu ray with srgb colorspace is history.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chronoptimist View Post

Color gamut is a physical property of the display. Colorspace 1 "disables" the color management system and displays the most saturated reds, greens, and blues that the panel's phosphors can create.

ok thanks for the info
i thought it was something like that.
colorspace 2 cuts the most saturated colors from its native gamut
post #6531 of 7300
pg_ice, Urga is in France. They get releases before we do in the States.
post #6532 of 7300
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stu03 View Post

Dithering is only visible in my KURO less than three inches.
Realize that when you say this, you are saying that you can only see individual pixels three inches from the display. This means that you are seeing far less than 1080p at your viewing distance.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stu03 View Post

If you don't think dirty power doesn't makes a blind bit of difference to 'perceived sharpness', image clarity, brightness perception and general clarity then i must assume you are from the every HDMI cable is the exactly same brigade.
Of course I am - because that is a fact. An HDMI cable either works correctly or it is obviously faulty.
The MD5 hash of an image is the same whether you use the cheapest HDMI cable or a stupidly expensive cable. This means that there cannot be a difference in the image between working HDMI cables.

Now it's true that different cable constructions can mean that certain cables handle longer runs before they show errors, or are less susceptible to external interference, but those result in obvious errors, not subtle changes to the image, or changes to things like sharpness.
If you believe that to be possible, then you don't understand how a connection like HDMI works.
post #6533 of 7300
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmmesch View Post

pg_ice, Urga is in France. They get releases before we do in the States.

im in sweden

but i found it here
its out tomorrow
http://www.zavvi.com/blu-ray/elysium-mastered-in-4k-edition-includes-ultraviolet-copy/10848649.html

we have no mastered in 4k movies here in sweden
the ones that i have was ordered from amazon
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_0_14?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=mastered%20in%204k&sprefix=mastered+in+4k%2Caps%2C233&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Amastered%20in%204k
post #6534 of 7300
Quote:
In France the BD is mastered 4K output is placed on the rear of the case ...
Publisher Sony Pictures ... wink.gif
post #6535 of 7300
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chronoptimist View Post

Realize that when you say this, you are saying that you can only see individual pixels three inches from the display. This means that you are seeing far less than 1080p at your viewing distance.
Of course I am - because that is a fact. An HDMI cable either works correctly or it is obviously faulty.
The MD5 hash of an image is the same whether you use the cheapest HDMI cable or a stupidly expensive cable. This means that there cannot be a difference in the image between working HDMI cables.

Now it's true that different cable constructions can mean that certain cables handle longer runs before they show errors, or are less susceptible to external interference, but those result in obvious errors, not subtle changes to the image, or changes to things like sharpness.
If you believe that to be possible, then you don't understand how a connection like HDMI works.

Wrong.

It has absolutely nothing to do with fancy packaging and color and even cost.


A cable that can't carry a consistent five VOLTS will not display the image as quickly or as accurately as a cable that does.

Thats a fact.
post #6536 of 7300
I use a $6 HDMI 10' cable from my HTPC to my AVR and it displays great on the Kuro at 1080p.
post #6537 of 7300
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmmesch View Post

I use a $6 HDMI 10' cable from my HTPC to my AVR and it displays great on the Kuro at 1080p.

Well it obviously works and that's no bad thing. More expensive ones with a higher grade materials and engineering can make a slight difference but it's diminishing returns.

I've seen cheaper ones work better than the more expensive options on rare occasion.
post #6538 of 7300
I used a Hi Grade 6'-ter first. It was too short to hide.

I went to Fry's Electronics and they had 10'-ters for $6 - it made no difference in PQ, just hide-ability of cable run.
post #6539 of 7300
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmmesch View Post

I used a Hi Grade 6'-ter first. It was too short to hide.

I went to Fry's Electronics and they had 10'-ters for $6 - it made no difference in PQ, just hide-ability of cable run.

i have never seen any difference in picture quality with different HDMI cables.
(it could be that i only use cable lengths of 0.5-1M )
BUT
i could see reduced PWM noise in the picture and a 5cd/m2 measured brighter image with higher sharpness with the new Power Surge.

i think thats because plasma tvs uses alot of power compared to LCDs
and mine even more than a standard plasma (max power usage at over 600watts)
clean power is needed to get out max from the panel.

its like you run with low octane fuel on a Ferrari
you will not get all 500 horsepowers and the engine will not run smooth
for a Volvo it doesnt matter what you put in the tank wink.gif

Go an buy one right NOW!
or give it to yourself as a late christmas present smile.gif
Edited by pg_ice - 12/25/13 at 6:13pm
post #6540 of 7300
Oh no not the good ole HDMI cable argument again, Stu sorry mate but a HDMI cable is a HDMI cable as has been proven on countless occasions, obviously it needs to be of better construct over certain length's but that is all.
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