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Project Quick, Easy & Cheap – IXL18.4 LLT - Page 2

post #31 of 192
Quote:
Originally Posted by mynym View Post

WOW! You rock at Sketchup. Great design. I love that bracing. You going to cut it out with a jigsaw then route the edges or?

Thanks. Very time consuming to do a detailed model in Sketchup, but I think it is worth the effort.

I don't have a jigsaw so I will probably use the router even for the straight edges of the window bracing.
post #32 of 192
Quote:


I don't have a jigsaw so I will probably use the router even for the straight edges of the window bracing.

Maybe its time to pick one up? You don't have to spend much, and it would make more sense to spend the $$$ on it rather than than the money on more router bits.
post #33 of 192
Quote:
Originally Posted by Willd View Post

Maybe its time to pick one up? You don't have to spend much, and it would make more sense to spend the $$$ on it rather than than the money on more router bits.

You're probably right. I got a 1/4" straight router bit (Bosch, 1/2 shank, carbide tipped) for $15 at the local tool store. I have no idea how fast it will wear out cutting MDF, though. Jigsaw makes sense and will definitely produce less dust!

OK... enough "talking" here. I just printed out a bunch of panels from my Sketchup drawing and I'm headed down to the garage to fire up the saw!

Wish me luck.
post #34 of 192
Thread Starter 
soo

I really would like to downfire this sub and have the 3, 4" diam x 34" length port outlets on the opposing wall similar to SonoSub's. (sub on the bottom, port outlets on the top)

That would leave 5.75" between the subs magnet and the end of the ports.

Is that enough room?

Will there be interference having the ports 5.75" directly behind the subwoofer driver?
post #35 of 192
Thread Starter 
My IXL18.4 arrived.



And for anyone else questioning the actual depth of the IXL18.4, here's a pic that shows the height next to a tape measure:



Still pondering around my open question (above) regarding the spacing between the the back of the sub and the end of the port, wondering if 5.75" will be enough clearance for the 3, 4" ports?
post #36 of 192
Wow... that looks like the exact same frame casting as the RL-P18 uses. Just different paint.
post #37 of 192
I think thats how these 18's have gotten cheaper as the years go by...

The hardware for them is replicated more often, I would assume. Other than the motors, its the softparts that get all the R&D work.
post #38 of 192
mynym ... what happened to your love for JL products ?!?! just playing ... happy to see you are coming over to the dark side

good luck with everything
post #39 of 192
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjw350z View Post

mynym ... what happened to your love for JL products ?!?! just playing ... happy to see you are coming over to the dark side

good luck with everything

You've got a great memory. As you and many others have preached you can achieve far superior performance at a fraction of the cost going the DIY route.

With the growing competition it's great to see the prices of these drivers coming down. I would have never thought I would see the day of an 18" sub with an SD of 1029 sq cm, XMAX of 22mm for $235 shipped.

I am extreamely impressed by the Mach5Audio offering.
post #40 of 192
Thread Starter 
Oh yeah..

What are people using to mount these beasts? Hurricain nuts? Do they have matching screws? Got any recommendations on size (diam/length) for these?
post #41 of 192
10-32's work well with my RLp18's. I would assume that they would work the same with the IXL18.
post #42 of 192
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Simonian View Post

10-32's work well with my RLp18's. I would assume that they would work the same with the IXL18.

Excellent. Thanks Scott.

PS. I am very envious of your dual RLP-18s. I can only imagine how complete your theater now is with those two twin coffins.
post #43 of 192
Thread Starter 
So I have a funny story to tell.

On the weekend I was at Lowes spec'ing out more materials for the project. I eyeballed a 10' long 4" black ABS pipe which would be perfect if I cut it to make 3 ports. After talking to one of Lowes associates they mentioned that they don't cut the pipe but if I came back during the week he'd get a hacksaw and cut it for me. As I only have a car I had to have the pipe cut.

Anyways. I go back tonight, find another associate and tell him the story that I was there on the weekend and that I wanted to have the pipe cut. He says 1 sec, goes around to the purchasing counter and hands me a hacksaw. Perfect. So I head back and find myself some pipe and begin cutting in the middle of the isle while other shoppers roam around me.

With the noise it's making a few other associates eyeball me and the guy who I spoke to on the weekend comes over and stares at me for a few seconds as I continue to saw away. He then proceeds to say "Excuse sir, what are you doing?" I then explained to him that I was cutting the pipe. He then asked "Where I got the saw from".. At this point I was half tempted to tell him I just went over to the hardware dept and got one but instead decided to let him know another employee authorized my usage of the saw and gave me it to use. The associate is pissed at this point and grabs the saw from my hand and says "He'll cut it".

So he then gets down on the ground with me as I hold the pipe steady in the middle of the plumping section. Hacking away at the pipe.

Maybe not as funny as I type it but I felt it was pretty hilarious while it was happening.


I found it was kinda difficult to cut the pipe accurately all the way around, having the ends meet while keeping the cut at 90 degrees. What are people using to cut ABS pipe perfectly?
post #44 of 192
Most of us use sonotube for the ports, but I also use a hacksaw when cutting PVC.
post #45 of 192
You could use one of those saws that are on the hinge that you lift up and then bring down to cut (miter saw?). If you need to smooth the ends out now that they might be a little hacked up, you can use a belt sander. Fire it up and just press it flat on until it evens out nicely.

That is a hilarious story though. And for how angry the guy was, the reaction to "I got the saw from the saw aisle" would have been priceless.
post #46 of 192
Quote:
Originally Posted by mynym View Post

With the growing competition it's great to see the prices of these drivers coming down. I would have never thought I would see the day of an 18" sub with an SD of 1029 sq cm, XMAX of 22mm for $235 shipped.

Strange how they don't list the Xmax on their web site (Sound Solutions Audio). What's the Xmech on this driver?

How's the box coming along? Any new pictures?
post #47 of 192
Quote:
Originally Posted by btp View Post

Strange how they don't list the Xmax on their web site (Sound Solutions Audio). What's the Xmech on this driver?

How's the box coming along? Any new pictures?

I believe the xmech is 26mm.
post #48 of 192
Thread Starter 
Okay. So I've been thinking about the bracing and handling of the long 34" ports.

Before I did any more cutting/glueing I wanted to ensure the design was perfect.

Below are some Sketchup drawings of what I am thinking. Note that the orientation of the subwoofer will be vertical similar to a SonoSub. In my drawings it does not include the dowels and base plate at the end where the sub is located. I welcome peoples comments/advice on this design:

A couple questions.

1) Around the perimeter of the bracing I am leaving 1.5". Could I go thinner? or is 1.5" okay? Does this current bracing I am proposing restrict the airflow to much?

2) Does having the internal ends of the port being flush mounted to the bracing add any adverse effects?

3) Is 5.75" between the end of the port and the back of the driver enough room?

4) How much room should be left between the face of where the subwoofer is and the base plate? Basically how long should the dowels be?

5) I'm leaving 2 5/8" inches in between the ports and the side walls. Is this suffice or should I move the ports closer together, more towards the center leaving more room? What is the effect if the ports are very close together?








Better shot of the bracing itself:


post #49 of 192
1) 1.5" is fine.

2) Make that wall of the enclosure where the port openings are two layers of material thick and then create a 3/4" roundover at the port openings to act as a flare.

3) Yes.

4) I'd go no less than 4".

5) Move the ports a little closer together - you don't want a wall obstructing the air flow into the interior port openings. Ideally you'd have 4" between the port openings and the nearest wall in all directions. If you use a 3/4" roundover at the port openings, the distance between the ports only needs to be a tiny bit over 1.5", say 1 5/8".

Looks good otherwise.
post #50 of 192
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveCallas View Post

1) 1.5" is fine.

2) Make that wall of the enclosure where the port openings are two layers of material thick and then create a 3/4" roundover at the port openings to act as a flare.

3) Yes.

4) I'd go no less than 4".

5) Move the ports a little closer together - you don't want a wall obstructing the air flow into the interior port openings. Ideally you'd have 4" between the port openings and the nearest wall in all directions. If you use a 3/4" roundover at the port openings, the distance between the ports only needs to be a tiny bit over 1.5", say 1 5/8".

Looks good otherwise.


Thanks for the insight.

In regards to #5. If I didn't do a 3/4" roundover on the port endings internal to the enclosure, what am I looking at as far as distance between the ports?

Thanks again for all your help.
post #51 of 192
I still probably wouldn't go less than 1.5". The roundovers may seem like an insignificant detail, but they will keep any potential chuffing further out at bay on the most demanding scenes.
post #52 of 192
Thread Starter 
Okay, 2 designs,

Design 1: 1.75" between ports, 3.5" from port to side wall
Design 2: 1.5" between ports, 3.75 from port to wall.

Neither one of these is optimal, leaving 4" between the side wall and the port.Assuming I don't round over either ends, which would be better?


Design 1: 1.75" between ports, 3.5" from port to wall.


Design 2: 1.5" between ports, 3.75" from port to wall.
post #53 of 192
Thread Starter 
I noticed that BassBox pro reflects that having two flush ends as the vent end type apparently lowers the tuning freq. I am guessing that it has something todo with the end correction calculation?

Below are two screenshots. One with a single flush end reflecting a 14.25hz where as the two flush ends reflect 13.7hz. Not a major difference but still.

Anyone got a technical explanation for this?


post #54 of 192
Go with design #2. If you measure from the wall to the actual port opening (not the edge or exterior surface of the port tube), it's exactly 4 inches so you're golden.

If you're going to do a 3/4" radius on the port outlets, which I do recommend, you will need another piece of MDF behind the panel that gets the radius. This panel will but cut to the port tube O.D. and serve to hold the tube(s) in place. On the panel that gets the radius, you must cut holes the same size or slightly smaller than the inner diameter of the port tube. The roller bearing on the rounding bit will ride on the inner surface of the port tube so the radius will match nicely with the inner edge of the port tube.

Hope all that makes sense.
post #55 of 192
I think the difference in tuning is becase when you have a flare the entire length of the tube is no longer used, only about half of the flare is actually considered "in the port"
post #56 of 192
Thread Starter 
I managed to cut out the interior braces this past weekend. I discovered that that my router jig isn't cabable of making small holes (4.5"). So I ended up making the cuts with the jig saw, making them a little larger than the diameter of the 4.5" ABS pipe. This way it will give me some room to move when I'm fitting them through the tight port ends. I'll end up securing them with some small pieces of stock wood and liquid nails.

* Edited substituting with Photobucket image:



Also, I started thinking about the end result and figured I'd cover the 3 ports with some grills.

I was looking at these at Parts Express: 5 1/4" black snap on grills.

.

Anyone had experience with these? Will they be to intrusive causing port whistle/noise?


I wish Parts Express was a little more explicit on their details, outlining the actual diameter (inside/outside)
post #57 of 192
A lot of us use those, myself included, but I don't possibly see how you could make three fit if you are trying to minimize the distance between the ports
post #58 of 192
Thread Starter 
Anyone know what's going on with AVS?

They are blocking all of my images.. Replacing some of the path with *******

http://www.derekreynolds.com********...d/IMG_2536.jpg
post #59 of 192
Quote:
Originally Posted by mynym View Post

Anyone know what's going on with AVS?

They are blocking all of my images.. Replacing some of the path with *******

http://www.derekreynolds.com********...d/IMG_2536.jpg

I think when the link gets too long, it gets modified...
post #60 of 192
Thread Starter 
Also wanted to report that I ended up returning my Craftsman router to Sears opting to get a more powerful 2 1/4 Skil 1825 with the multiple base sets (fixed/plunge). I had a $10 off coupon and the router was only $89 which brought the price to $79. I figured for an extra $20 it was worth getting a more powerful router with variable speed and multiple bases.

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