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Official Sharp Aquos LC-42D64U/46D64U/52D64U Owner's Thread II (No Price Talk) - Page 189

post #5641 of 5830
Is there any way to turn off 24hz mode on your PS3? If there is, have you tried that? Some people will experience some type of flicker when in 24hz mode.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GreenMan82 View Post

K i will tell you everthing that is hooked to this and by which source also. The ps3 is connected via hdmi directly to the tv, and i have a sasktel hd box which is connected by component because the picture just looks better when connected with it , but that is all that i have connected to the T.V. Now this Backlight flicker only happens on Blu ray and it does say 1080p 24hz in the right hand corner when playing a bd . Now i phoned the place which i had bought the T.V from and they said to buy a clean power supply which they said that might be the problem. Then i phoned Sharp and they said that it may need a software update. I'm not sure which one to try first.
post #5642 of 5830
Well i went out and bought the clean power supply to run everything on, which i was told that this would help i haven't seen a noticable difference but i needed one anyway because i was just running everything on the standard power bar. I tried some new settings from the site on just the user setting and that seemed to look alright with the Movie I robot , but i'm not sure if this is a good quality of movie or not. Also if there is anyone that knows how to switch off the 24hz on the ps3 let me know because i have looked through all of the settings and cant find nothing pertaining to the 24hz. Thank you all for your reply's
post #5643 of 5830
Thanks Laser that actually helped big time so ty very much everything seems to be working fine! However when you guys mention banding is this always noticeable or only in certan darker colors? I have been noticeing some vertical lines about evry 6 inches across the entire T.V if i can get a good picture i will post it.
post #5644 of 5830
Hi, I've been lurking this thread for the last couple weeks now. Decided I'd benefit from being a member. :P Everyone here seems to really know their stuff.

Anyways... I (like many others) am experiencing some problems with my lc37d64u.

Started about a month back, my unit started to power off spontaneously. Once a day at first, then more frequently, once every half hour or so. It reached a point where I would turn it on, and it would turn right back off. Then I started to get the green blinking light indicating a problem. At this time I had no idea that the frequency of the light meant what the problem could be, so I brought my unit to a repair shop.

They said it was the lcd inverter, and that it would cost me ~300 to get it replaced and installed. I told them this was an unacceptable price, and brought it home. I worked as a computer tech for a couple years, so I thought I could probably do it cheaper myself. I managed to find an inverter online for a good price, and installed it after waiting ~2 weeks for delivery.

Performed a reset as per the instructions I stumbled upon on this site, and the unit worked great... For 2 days. Now the unit powers on, stays powered on, but the display shows up only for a split second before it blacks out again. The power light stays steady green.

Worth noting:
There are 2 flashing red lights on my mainboard. Can anyone who has a working unit confirm if these are supposed to be flashing? They aren't synchronized. One is close to the top, the other is on the side of the usb service port. Both are located just under the heat sink mount.

To conclude my novel...

Does my mainboard need replacing? Could this have caused my inverter board to fail?

Is the inverter board just bunk?

Any input is greatly appreciated! Thanks so much in advance, guys!

-Nicko
post #5645 of 5830
I own a Sharp Aquos LC-52D64U, and I recently tried to update the firmware.
I havent had any real issues with the TV , the only thing that would be worth mentioning is that captioning would turn off when the programs go to commercials, then I had to change the channel and come back to enable it again, and I don't really know if it is a broadcast issue or TV issue. Anyway I tried updating the firmware several times, I tried to update to the version U0905131, it would recognise the firmware file, verify and bring to the screen to select OK to start the update but afterwards the TV would just blink and remain on the old firmware. Luckily for me it didn't die, so I reformatted the USB drive to FAT16 (Wasn't sure if it was previously FAT16 or FAT32, but the TV did recognise the firmware) and did a factory reset before doing a firmware update. I guess the factory reset must have done the trick, it blinked and came back with the update screen and updated the firmware to U0905131 within 1 or 2 min.
Here is the details:

Model: Sharp Aquos LC-52D64U
Serial No: 801862215
Original Frimware: U0709xxx (don't remember the last 3 digits)
New Firmware: U0905131
USB drive used: Kingston Data Traveler 2Gb
Formatted File system: FAT16
post #5646 of 5830
I had the exact same problem as GreenMan82, and turning off 24Hz playback completely eliminated the flicker.

Thank you Laser! The internets is the greatest invention ever!
post #5647 of 5830
Quote:
Originally Posted by weezy360 View Post

I had the exact same problem as GreenMan82, and turning off 24Hz playback completely eliminated the flicker.

Thank you Laser! The internets is the greatest invention ever!

No problem. I think I heard that on the DVE HD Basics blu-ray. Not entirely sure though. I don't have that problem. I play all my BD at 24hz mode and have never experienced flicker. I wonder if the calibration helps?
post #5648 of 5830
Quote:
Originally Posted by Laser4G63 View Post

No problem. I think I heard that on the DVE HD Basics blu-ray. Not entirely sure though. I don't have that problem. I play all my BD at 24hz mode and have never experienced flicker. I wonder if the calibration helps?

That's puzzling to me, too! I never have flickers with 1080p 24hz. It doesn't matter what source, no flickering even with my laptop.
post #5649 of 5830
Quote:
Originally Posted by grod777 View Post

I currently have a 52d64u hooked up to my cable box via component and occasionally the picture goes black and then comes back after about 2-3 seconds. But my xbox360 which is also hooked up via component does not do that. I saw the forum that lists the new firmware corrections and it states that it corrects picture flashing. Is this what meant by "component dropout"? Has the firmware update corrected this issue? I am hesitant to do the update if it will not resolve my problem. I tried posting this question in that forum but received no replies so I am hoping I'll have better luck here. Thanks in advance.

Does anyone have any thoughts on this?
Thx.
post #5650 of 5830
Quote:
Originally Posted by grod777 View Post

Does anyone have any thoughts on this?
Thx.

My guess would be that this is caused by the cable box. This happened to me with a comcast motorola DVR that I had. I swapped it out then the problem never came back.
post #5651 of 5830
Quote:
Originally Posted by grod777 View Post

Does anyone have any thoughts on this?
Thx.

I can confirm that installing the latest firmware S0909081 to my 52D64U solved my component input drop out issues.
post #5652 of 5830
Hey-I've just scanned most of the posts here & after page 2, 3, 4 I haven't seen the consensus "best" PQ setting--is there one after these early ones by TigerDave & balloXXX(?)...thx!
post #5653 of 5830
Ive recently found some settings on tweaktv.com that are by far the best that I have used since I have had the tv.

You can find them here:http://www.tweaktv.com/tweak-my-tv/c...lc-46d64u.html

Sharp LC-46D64U

User Menu Settings

* Picture Modes
o A/V Mode : Standard
o Color Temperature : Low
o Aspect Ratio : Stretch
* Settings
o A/V Mode : Standard
o Backlight : + 5
o Contrast : 35
o Brightness : - 16
o Color : - 8
o Tint : - 1
o Sharpness : 0
* Advanced Settings
o CMS Hue : Factory Default
o CMS Sat : Factory Default
o Active Contrast : Off
o Fine Motion : On
o IP Settings : Factory Default
o Monochrome : Off
o Range of OPC : Factory Default
post #5654 of 5830
Anyone know how to remove the banding. I have horizontal banding. Noticeable when watching a still shot the panning. Example; Law and Order, UP, Planet Earth. I connected my laptop to the PC input and just made a quick gray power point slide...Multiple shads of gray and the banding is very noticeable. ..anyone have any ideas to remove this?
If not, I would like to sell this for just $100-$200 (local 50 miles free delivery) just to get rid of it. Sometimes I just can't watch it. It bothers me that much.

Does the LED Samsungs or Sharps have this issue?

Thanks!
Logan
post #5655 of 5830
Quote:
Originally Posted by HDMI4Logan View Post

Anyone know how to remove the banding. I have horizontal banding. Noticeable when watching a still shot the panning. Example; Law and Order, UP, Planet Earth. I connected my laptop to the PC input and just made a quick gray power point slide...Multiple shads of gray and the banding is very noticeable. ..anyone have any ideas to remove this?
If not, I would like to sell this for just $100-$200 (local 50 miles free delivery) just to get rid of it. Sometimes I just can't watch it. It bothers me that much.

Does the LED Samsungs or Sharps have this issue?

Thanks!
Logan

You cannot get rid of the banding, without replacing the panel, it's a quality issue with these TV's. It seems like it's part of the glass substrate. The first one I got returned the bands were apparent with the TV off, my new one is better, but not perfect. I can live with the minor banding. Apparently Sharp has addressed the issue with newer TV's but those of us who have these older ones and are out of warranty are SOL.
post #5656 of 5830
Would it be possible to get someone to post a picture of some banding so i can see what this looks like? I think i may be having this issue but not entirely sure if its just the quality of my cable supplier.
post #5657 of 5830
Quote:
Originally Posted by GreenMan82 View Post

Would it be possible to get someone to post a picture of some banding so i can see what this looks like? I think i may be having this issue but not entirely sure if its just the quality of my cable supplier.

This post shows banding in the first couple pics (vertical and horizontal). On some sets about a couple years ago, banding was a little worse than these.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...&postcount=401

However, you would not be able to see in showing real programs with banding like this.
post #5658 of 5830
I just joined this forum after browsing it the past couple of days hoping to find a solution to my firmware problem. I was able to fix it myself and thought it would be helpful to post in case anyone else finds themselves in the same situation.

I have the LC-46D64U television, serial number beginning with 809, firmware version SXXXXXXX. This past Saturday I decided to update to version S0909081 but the tv would not accept it. After doing some reading I discovered the memory stick required a FAT format, not FAT32 as mine was. So I reformatted to FAT and mistakenly unzipped the U firmware update to it. I downloaded both from the Sharp site since I could not recall which version I had. When I installed the memory stick, the "updating system" screen came up on the tv and completed successfully. When I turned the tv on, I had only audio through my component input to which the satellite receiver was plugged into. Finding that odd I went through the various inputs and found none to work except for the coaxial. The menu system worked fine but nothing I did through it changed things. Checking the firmware confirmed the latest U version had been installed. I tried, unsuccessfully to re-install the S firmware but the tv indicated it was incorrect for my model. I immediately called Sharp and the CSR was surprised the tv accepted the U firmware, and told me he was escalating it to another tech support team. I was sure I had just turned my television into a brick, 2 months out of warranty, but figured Sharp might do something based on the logic that accepting a firmware mismatch must be a defect.

I figured I couldn't be the only one that has experienced this scenario so I started searching the net and that's when I came across this forum. However it turns out I must be the only one with this problem because I have not found a single reference to a problem remotely similar to mine, anywhere. Not having the patience to wait for Sharp to contact me, I kept plugging away looking for a way to correct the firmware. I tried everything, resetting, entering service mode, etc. ***VERY IMPORTANT*** If you have older versions of firmware, file them away somewhere since this is what enabled me to fix my set.

I retraced my steps from Saturday and made the assumption the television had been placed into a certain state during my first update attempt that did not accept the latest S firmware version. I decided to try and replicate the process and set the tv to "update" to an earlier U firmware version that I found on the Canadian Sharp website, which by the way does not list any S firmware versions. I loaded two memory sticks, one with an older U firmware and the other with the new S firmware. I installed the stick with U firmware and when I got to the screen that describes how the tv will go blank for a few minutes before completing the update, before confirming the process, I switched the memory stick with the one containing S firmware and continued. The screen went blank for about a minute, then the "updating" screen showed up and confirmed it was installing the S0909081 firmware. After it was completed, I tested all the inputs and everything was back to normal.

Apologies for the novel, but I wanted to be sure to include as many details as possible as it might help someone else if happening upon the same problem. When Sharp contacts me I will also fill them in on the fix so they can record it if needed for future support.

Although there seem to be mixed reviews on this set, I have to say I have not had any issue with it to date. There is some mild banding at times but nothing I can't live with. I got it for a great price in December of 2008 and have found it to be a great bang for the buck purchase. I must say, I was feeling pretty bummed about the prospect of replacement or expensive repair. It's my feeling that once you open up a piece of equipment like this and start replacing parts, it usually turns into a lemon in short order.

I look forward to visiting this forum on occasion for tips and tweaks.

Cheers,

Damian
post #5659 of 5830
Thank Damien to share this with us.

Does any one know what difference behind Uxxxxxx and Sxxxxx firmware?
post #5660 of 5830
I have created an INF fie my my LC42D64U so that the PC connected the TV can display at 1920x1080 and 1280x720 mode. Obviously Sharp delivered an wrong EDID data base. I was able to retrieve data then modify to create an INF.

My INF works well with ATI X600 card. Normaly I use 1920x1080 to browser and 1280x720 to watch video. it works nice.

I have attached modified INF and EDID file in this post.

 

Sharp_d64u.zip 1.34765625k . file
post #5661 of 5830
Quote:
Originally Posted by gaosan View Post

Thank Damien to share this with us.

Does any one know what difference behind Uxxxxxx and Sxxxxx firmware?

The U series is for the older sets with the S series for the newer sets (ones that support 24fps).
post #5662 of 5830
Hey all:

I've had a 46D64U for about almost 2 years, usually I just deal with the problem, but now it finally starting to bug me quite a bit. Here's the layout. I use a harmony 890, I have (2) Lcd's, one's upstairs (46d64u) and one's downstairs (samsung a650). I have a TWC dcx3400 cable box. Its Hdmi output gets split by a monoprice 4x2 hdmi switcher (Product ID: 5312). From there (1) hdmi output is kept downstairs, is sent to an onkyo 875 reciver which up converts it to 1080p and sends it through a 50' hdmi cable, then to the samsung. I only use the reciever for sound downstairs, and everything works fine no problems.

Now the 2nd hdmi ouput of the switcher is sent through a 65' hdmi cable all the way upstairs to the sharp 46D64U. Now when I switching through the 4x2 switcher, the dvd, PS3 & Appletv are all fine, no problems. But when I go to the cable box the audio will completely drop out, changing channels or powering off wont work to restore and I'll get this message.....

"incompatible audio signal, please check your connection or device"

And the only way I can get the audio back, is by accessing the user menu of the motorola cable box, go into "additional hdmi settings" and changing the (3) audio options "AUTO", "THROUGH" & "L-PCM". The only one that will get the audio back is "L-PCM".

Now the problem with that is it wont stay permenantly. If i go back downstairs and start watching say an HBO movie in HD with dolby, the box will switch out of that and reset to "AUTO" and then the whole problem will start again up stairs. I've swicthed to an older cable box , the DCT3216 and the problem is the same, I've even replaced the DCX3400 and its the same. I've even updated to the lastest sharp firmware and no luck. I can't run analog up stairs or change cable so I'm not sure what to do.

Would I have to convert the signal out of the switcher before it goes to the upstairs to analog, then back to hdmi? Also, if I leave it as L-PCM, that only means 2 channel stereo, correct? Or does that mean the dobly is decoded in the cable box then sent to the reciever? Would the reciever need to be on multichannel to recieve the L-PCM then send it to the separate channels?

All I want upstairs is 2 channel stereo, but I want dolby downstairs. Any help or advise would be appreciated.
post #5663 of 5830
Anyone know how I can go about checking my firmware version?

Menu>Digital>Software Update

That's what I have on my TV. No "information" option under Digital.

Only "Software Update." When you click that it tries to find the USB drive which of course is not there because I don't know whether I have an S or U to begin with.
post #5664 of 5830
Quote:
Originally Posted by sll0037 View Post

Anyone know how I can go about checking my firmware version?

Menu>Digital>Software Update

That's what I have on my TV. No "information" option under Digital.

Only "Software Update." When you click that it tries to find the USB drive which of course is not there because I don't know whether I have an S or U to begin with.

You have to set the input to TV before going into the menu. This was most likely designed by the same idiots that only allow closed captioning from the TV input as well.
post #5665 of 5830
Hi,

Previously in this thread the contact info for Carmine Cinerari was provided. This email no longer is valid and I was wondering if anyone had the new info to reach him?

Also corporate info for Japan HQ as well.

Thanks
post #5666 of 5830
Quick question. Is there a way to have the TV muted WITHOUT displaying the icon? Or at least have it display and then go off-screen?

I'm trying to set my Harmony One to mute the TV when I'm using the sound bar.
post #5667 of 5830
i spent a few hrs searching through this excellent, but long 190 page thread.. but couldnt find an answer..

i just picked up a desktop PC to connect to my LC46D64U and found i can not get 1080p via the VGA port.. then i found this thread!!..

i tried the powerstrip procedure, but "Advanced timing options..." is grayed out.. any idea what i am doing wrong??..

see post 959 for details..

the PC i bought is on walmart.com eMachines EL1333G-01w (i cant post links yet)..

important details summarized here:
Windows 7
AMD Athlon 2850e processor
1.8GHz, 512KB L2 Cache
NVIDIA GeForce 6150 SE integrated graphics

any help would be greatly appreciated.. thanks!!..
post #5668 of 5830
Quote:
Originally Posted by crawdad62 View Post

Quick question. Is there a way to have the TV muted WITHOUT displaying the icon? Or at least have it display and then go off-screen?

I'm trying to set my Harmony One to mute the TV when I'm using the sound bar.

What I did to address this (when I am using my amp for audio) is to have the Harmony One issue multiple volume down commands to bring the sound level down to zero (I usually keep my volume at a set level) and added a few extra 'down' commands just to be on the safe side. It is a bit pedestrian but it does the job. Good Luck
post #5669 of 5830
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzner View Post

i spent a few hrs searching through this excellent, but long 190 page thread.. but couldnt find an answer..

i just picked up a desktop PC to connect to my LC46D64U and found i can not get 1080p via the VGA port.. then i found this thread!!..

i tried the powerstrip procedure, but "Advanced timing options..." is grayed out.. any idea what i am doing wrong??..

see post 959 for details..

the PC i bought is on walmart.com eMachines EL1333G-01w (i cant post links yet)..

important details summarized here:
Windows 7
AMD Athlon 2850e processor
1.8GHz, 512KB L2 Cache
NVIDIA GeForce 6150 SE integrated graphics

any help would be greatly appreciated.. thanks!!..

From Entech's Powerstrip website: "[Powerstrip] is the only program of its type to support multiple graphics cards from multiple chipset vendors, simultaneously, under every Windows operating system from Windows 95 to the x64-bit edition of Vista."

Hmm, doesn't say it supports Windows 7. If your new computer has Windows 7 Professional, try running Powerstrip in XP mode.
post #5670 of 5830
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzner View Post

important details summarized here:
Windows 7
AMD Athlon 2850e processor
1.8GHz, 512KB L2 Cache
NVIDIA GeForce 6150 SE integrated graphics

any help would be greatly appreciated.. thanks!!..

OK, scratch my last post. I looked around the Entech forums, and it seems people are using Powerstrip successfully with Windows 7. I also saw a post that said the GeForce 6150 IGP was compatible with Powerstrip. Not sure if that is different from your GeForce 6150 SE. You might want to check out Entech's forums and see if there are any ideas over there to help you:

http://forums.entechtaiwan.com/
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