Official Sharp Aquos LC-42D64U/46D64U/52D64U Owner's Thread II (No Price Talk) - Page 194

I know I am going any forum etiquette here bumping an old thread, but has anyone had this happen to their LC-52D64U? this just happened in the last month and is slowly getting worse. it looks like their is a film on the back of the glass that is bubbling..


edit: I noticed earlier mention of this now, wow.. first banding.. now these "bubbles", i know i'll never buy another Sharp.. I actually contacted Sharp.. they told me to go get it serviced on my own dime. great product here.. barely lasted over 3 years, paid a lot of money for this piece of trash.

Having huge sound problems with my PS3 on this TV. My dad got a new tv for Christmas and said I could have his 42 inch Sharp Aquos. When I play PS3 on this tv the sound is very very low even when it is turned up all of the way. I have reset the sound settings on the tv and reset my PS3 thinking that may have been a problem. If anyone knows what I can do or which sound option to pick in the PS3 sound section it would be greatly appreciated.

bump

I just have the HDMI cable connected from the PS3 to the television. When I go in to the sound settings for the PS3 it asks me to set up manually or automatically and I just choose that option assuming it syncs the right output. If I do it manually what other output options should I choose ?

Just tried a new HDMI cord and same problem. It has to be a system issue or there is a option in the PS3 sound settings that is for this TV that I do not know about or which one to choose.

Alright so now the sound of the PS3 menu is really loud with my TV turned all the way up which is good but when I put in a game or blu-ray I have the TV turned all the way up and it's not as loud.


Just noticed something. When I am at the PS3 menu I am at 1080p with great sound but when I start a game or movie for some reason the TV reverts itself and starts showing 720p and the sound is way worse.

Weird behaviour out of my LC46 recently. The television set has been owned by me for almost 4.5 years now. Never a problem until recently. Intermittently, the set will shut itself down while watching something, then 10 seconds later it will turn itself back on. The lights on the front remain on during the power cycle. First response was to check the power connection which is seated solidly at both ends.

Is this the beginning of some method of failure?

Cliffs:

Set will make the power off click noise, screen will go blank, front lights will stay on. 10 seconds later, set powers on, everything returns to normal.

Happens maybe once every 10 hours of use.

It is possibly a power supply that is stating to go bad. But, did you add any new equipment just before this behavior started like a new cable box?

A complete new setup in January, but aside from that nothing. The television is currently hooked up as follows. 1 coax connection for a channelmaster 4221, which includes a channelmaster pre-amp terminating just ahead of the connection to the TV. HDMI to PS3 (PS3 usually power off via the back, main power switch. It isnt used often, and the problem has not occured during PS3 playback). HDMI to Boxee Box, installed since December, never any problems previously.

After happening maybe 4 times in as many days, it has not happened now for several days. If this is not a common issue which I can work to fix then I guess we will hope for the best and plan for a new TV if we have to.

*edit* incase it wasnt clear in my previous post. Both the power off and power on happen without any interaction from the user. The TV will shut off on its own, then a short time later power back on, on its own.

Can anyone point me to a source for a used panel for an LC-42D64U? I have a project set here and want to play around with a repair. Thanks in advance.

Hello fellow owners, I'm proud to announce that after 3 or so years with my LC52D64U I have upgraded to a new 2012 panny plasma. It's my first plasma so I'm a little nervous. I haven't left the LCD camp for good but just want to see what it's like to own a plasma and how different they are than LCD. I'll miss my sharp.

I think you will be very happy with the Panasonic. I have a 2010 Panasonic that works very well.

I am having an issue updating my LC-52D64U to S0909081. When I put the USB stick in, and ask for it to find the update, it says the update is not for my model. I have used the same USB stick to update to the previous version (512 mg USB stick, FAT). I also tried a 2GB stick, and it did not work either. The TV see's the USB stick, it seems to read it, but says the update is not for my TV. Any thoughts? Thanks.

I don't think the memory stick is the problem the first thing you should check is the version of firmware currently installed on your LC-52D64U. I recently updated my LC-46D64U, the Sharp website had 2 versions of the firmware listed, the "S" version and the "U" version. I verified in the flat panel menu options that the "U" version was installed I downloaded the "U" update(U0905131) , installed it and everything worked out fine.

So you may be trying to update the display with either:

1) An older version of the firmware than what is currently installed
2) The wrong version of the firmware.

Hope this helps you out.

My 52D62U has been working great since 2006! I've been using it pretty much every single day, up to and including 24 hrs/Day.. more 24 hr days than I'd like to admit, and I've moved once too. It took a rough truck ride with crappy non-existent suspension.

It does have some very slight ''banding'', but it's only visible on a certain light tone of gray and been there since day one. It's not a problem 99.99% of the time, and the overall picture is soOOOooo freaking nice.. to me it looks better than a lot of supposedly better and way more modern TVs.

Anyway, one major thing I attribute to the TV's longevity is the fact that I have ALWAYS had it plugged into a 1500 avr UPS.

I think a lot of consumer electronics are damaged by the unstable power supplies of people's houses without a UPS. Surge protectors aren't the same.

I have my Yamaha AVR(s), PS3, DVR(s), TV(s), router, modem, phones, PCs, etc. all plugged into uninterruptable power supplies and I've had extremely ''good luck'' with all my expensive electronic equipment.

One more thing I do with the Aquos, is never turn the TV on, and then turn it off right after that, or even turn it off if I'm not going to watch it for a couple hrs. I'd rather just turn it to a very low power consumption mode (I have one user mode set to -16 backlight, -14 cont., etc, just low everything so it's using very little power), and instead of turning power off, I set it to that low power mode. I try to limit the amount of heating/cooling cycles the TV goes through, throughout it's life. I'll leave it on for 5 days in a row rather than turn it off for a couple hours a day, if I'm watching it a lot, just to avoid the cool-down/warm-up cycles. Who knows if that actually will extend it's life. I'd say it's working so far though.

What I believe you are saying is; that there are 2 different updates, for different models/serial number ranges? I have the U0905131 installed, but when I search the Sharp USA website, it says the S0909081 is for my TV also. You seem to be saying it is not necessarily for my TV, since I use the "U" updates, the "S" updates are not for me. So, the U0905131 is the most current for my TV. Does that sound right?

1) What I believe you are saying is; that there are 2 different updates, for different models/serial number ranges? Correct there are different sub assemblies within a given model number, which is why there are different firmware updates e.g. "U" and "S".

2) So, the U0905131 is the most current for my TV. Does that sound right? Correct the U0905131 update is the most current update.

Thank you!!!!

Congrats on wise buying decision
I started out seeing banding on snow scenes for example but just normal infrequent cleaning with LCD screen gel, followed by light horzontal and vertical strokes with a microfiber cloth and now we see no banding -- and have come to the conclusion that screen non-uniformity was WAY over blown. Agree the picture is sensational, once you say dial it in with Avia disk.
Agreed. My Chang Lishtspeed has survived lightning hitting the house. Everyone should have all their AV gear plugged in to a Tripplite Isobar Ultra (at the very least). The Isobar Ultras are economical and will isolate digital sources (very important) and even protect during storm surges, etc including lightning. Also will improve all-important signal noticeably!
Good idea especially since our power grid is in terrible shape across the country and these appliances burn through money unless designed to idle on next to no power.We have no desire to buy new or bigger screen and if we do it will be a plasma since they are now ready for prime time and avoid leakage that comes with LCD/LED. The Sharp has been a fabulous buy and again, sensational picture, especilly with 1080 lines of resolution sources.
Edited by rocky01 - 11/10/12 at 8:20am

Yeah especially watching blu-rays (well, at least good ones).. I'm still amazed, I tell you...

I'd like to know how much pressure you put on the screen when rubbing out the screen "un-uniformity"...I never put any pressure on it whatsoever, not even a little, and any banding is not changing.. but it's still only at certain times, like very dark gray scenes for me.

What's a good LCD gel to use? I admit I haven't done much research at all about cleaning it properly, it does get dusty, I just use very light touch and microfiber.

It would be cool to see a change in the pattern of banding, even if it is slight.

I wouldn't go overboard with pressure but we have not babied it. Only when you see dust on the surface -- we run Therapure Hepa Air Filter so essentially dust free environment; it's only needed say every six months*. You've got your money's worth with this set and I for one do not expect to have it repaired out-of-warranty since buying new would be wisest thing to do, if and when the time comes. Anything bigger than 55 inches defintely dominates the room so WAF is built into buying any more big screens. Luckily the set is a hit on the wall it's on with everyone that sees it swooning (no kidding) so no need for it to get banished to a media room or den. I've even snuck in 5.1 sound that blends in and has WAF approval, so not looking to make any AV changes at all, despite age of set in strict Technology terms.

* We use something called Philips Anti-Run Anti-Static Screen Cleaning Gel -- but just about all of them have to be the same idea, zero destruction of the screen itself, no gooey film.
Edited by rocky01 - 11/10/12 at 12:27pm

I've got a 46d62u that I'm thinking about upgrading... It's been great for the last five years, but I'm thinking about jumping to a Panasonic plasma, as well. I can get a 55" tv in the same space and I have some of the banding on this set during gray/light scenes... Not noticeable most of the time.

Hello, I have a Sharp LC-46D64U that I recently acquired that is having some weird problems. When I first received the Television set I could not get any signs of life besides the power light, which flashes green at a steady interval. After some research I discovered the reset trick, (Channel down, volume up or the other way around while powering up the set.) After doing the reset I had some signs of life and thought I had fixed the set. My excitement was short lived, the set powered on, flickered 3-4 times then died. I could make out the input selector menu before it died and that was it. If the set is power cycled then the same results will occur. Occasionally it will go back to the power light flashing, which I assume is some sort of error code but I can not find out what it is. I pulled apart the set figuring it might just be a bad cap or something having fixed a couple monitors and sets before with bad caps/boards. To my dismay it had no bad capacitors or anything obviously wrong with the boards. After this I began research and troubleshooting, I've done the following:

-Checked Pre-power board, it is outputting 120 volts as desired.

-Checked all outgoing voltages from the main power board, all are within 1 volt of desired voltage.

-I have unplugged all input/tuner boards and received the same effect so I do not believe it is them.

-If I unplug the TCON board I get similar results before the set shuts off 3 flickers in and throws me a error code, so I do not believe it is the tcon board but I am not sure.

-I have also noticed the mainboard has two red LED's that turn on and off seemingly randomly while the set is on, I don't know if this means anything.


Any thoughts on what the issue might be and how to troubleshoot further? I've read some places I should check the transformers on the inverter board but I do not know how I would go about this. Any help would be appreciated, thank you.

Hey Mickey230,

I have strangely enough followed the exact procedure, as you did. Same issues / problems.
My wife has bought this TV in 2008, It worked good till a couple of months ago. Then just started to randomly shut off.
The LEDs on the front indicated a power problem , but after measuring the voltages and replacing the power board because of (~1V) differences, I believed it must have been the main board. Found a replacement, from a person who claimed to have a cracked screen, -> Same problem. The only thing I have read that appears to be a potential source of the issue ; Broadcom CPU needs re-balling (bad contacts, because of arcing in the solder) If I have the TV off for a couple of hours, it can turn on, and I can operate it for aprox. 45-60sec. Then it shuts down. And I hear a relay clicking.

Guys, can anyone of you guys recommend the next step before re-balling ? Thx!

So at 5.5 years old and fairly heavy usage, my TV (46D64U) has finally broken.
TV had been on for maybe an hour, then suddenly went to black. Power light was blinking (single blink), nothing else). Unplugged it for a bit, when I plugged it back in, it came on automatically, and gave me a very dark image for about 3 seconds (basically black middle, but could see dark image closer to the edges), then went to black. Light began blinking again.
I tried the "reset" trick I found way back in this thread (channel down/volume up held down, unplug and replug), but only thing different now is that the power light stays on (as if the TV is operating normally). Im curious if anyone has had this issue and could advise on if this is fixable (for relatively low cost), or if my best bet is to just find a new TV and hope I can get something for a broken one on craigslist.

^ That sucks!

My 52" 62U is still going strong! It's on pretty much every single day, pretty much all day, LOL. It spends more time on than off.

The screen has some irregularities that seem to be getting worse with time, but it isn't horrible. mainly some horizontal banding on grey scenes that look like the center of the screen is drooping a little.. It isn't, but the banding is in that shape.. it's weird.. Anyway. I got it in early 2007, so it is past 6 years now.. going on 7 years. I imagine the entire lighting system, the fluorescent lighting system will go before too long. I can't see it lasting more than 10 years with so much use. I guess we'll see.

It works perfectly in all it's functions, just like brand new.
paid over $3000, so I am getting my $$ worth.