4X2 True Matrix HDMI 1.3a Powered Switch w/ Remote Controller - Page 17

I am not sure how I missed this post of your's. Seemed to answer my question before I asked it and I have read the whole thread too.

Oh well. Thanks for repeating yourself bnieman.

Well I just got one of these thinking it could be the solution to a problem, but now I'm wondering if this is going to work or not.

First off; I'm running an HTPC with an extended display (there will be actually two output sources besides the standard monitor and didn't want to buy 360's all the way around). My video card only has one hdmi output so the need for this came up.

It's one thing that I have to shut the computer down before I can make my connection but this is something entirely else.

The main issue I have with this is my extended display isn't working properly. Both desktops show up (with icons on the main and just the background on the extended), but as soon as I open something up it automatically moves over to the extended display. I can't move the mouse back to the main monitor or drag a program or window back over to the main.

My main monitor has been set to be the main monitor, the output from the switch is going to a receiver.

Any ideas on why the switch is seizing control from the comuter?

I'm not sure I fully understand your question as it seems to have more to do with how your computer/graphics card handles multiple monitors.

Most video cards with 3 ouputs (for example 2 DVI ports and 1 HDMI port) can only have 2 of those outputs active at one time. So if you enable HDMI output it will disable one of your DVI outputs. This might explain your situation? Again I don't fully understand what the switch has to do with your issue.

As for opening windows, on my extended desktop a new window will open in the last place it was before the program closed. So if I had my web browser open on my secondary monitor when I closed it, the next time I open it will open on that same secondary monitor.

Hope this info helps, otherwise please try to further explain your issue.

Cheers

Well, I got it figured out and turned out to be a simple little thing. It turned out that the display is being picked up on the opposite side as before. Instead of dragging to the left while on the extended display, now you have to drag to the right. As far as a window automatically opening up on the extended display, it could be that it was shut down on it previously (although I'm pretty sure that I didn't shut down the screen resolution screen on it).

Also for me a fresh boot-up doesn't make a hand shake; I have to do a restart instead of a complete shut-down. Still a pain in the butt; I've got a Ceton and it takes a few minutes to get it going from a restart or a start-up from a shut-down.

Not having any audio problems so far as I can tell.

In regards to the "weakest link" in your HDMI chain; if your HDTV has a Dolby Digital Decoder will you not be able to get at least Dolby 5.1 out to your receiver hooked up to output B?

Will the decoder "decode" dts? Searched but can't find the correct answer.

Thanks for the help!

Luke

Most TVs decode both Dolby Digital and DTS (and all TVs with an ATSC tuner decode Dolby Digital) but they still tell the input HDMI device (via HDCP) that they are going to output stereo after decoding which will set your ouput B to stereo too even though it's a 5.1 capable receiver.

Thank you very much, i was afraid of that. You have been more than helpful to me. Stupid EDID.
Do you use a matrix at all or are you just knowledgible in the subject?

I own and use the Monoprice 4x2 Matrix everyday I learned the "least common denominator" rule the hard way though... I stay subscribed to the thread so I can hopefully save someone else the headache.

My solution was the route my audio completely seperate from my HDMI video. I have two 75 ft. optical cables and two 75 ft coax cables coming from my basement to my living room for digital audio... it was a pain running the extra cables but now I have zero issues with bitstreaming 5.1. Most of my devices have both optical and coax digital audio output so I use 1 for my basement preamp/processor and 1 for my receiver in my living room. My TiVo only has optical so I bought a really inexpensive optical audio splitter from Monoprice and it's worked flawlessly since day one. For the high-res formats like DTS-HD-MA and Dolby True I utilize the analog outputs on my Blu-Ray player for the basement. The living room is out of luck in that regard, but my receiver doesn't support them anyway so I would need to run analog regardless.

I can't imagine life without the 4x2 switch now though, all my components are in the basement and I have access to them all in my living room. Everything plays nice with my Harmony remote too.

The switch works as well as it's allowed to by the law of HDCP and EDID (which I would bet causes more headaches than saves content from being copied)

Cheers

b - what if you are playing 2 different sources; 1 to the theater and the other to an LCD? ie - Bluray to theater(thru receiver) and HDTV (straight)to LCD? I understand the 1 source on 2 displays but what about this case? What about when you are only playing bluray to the theater and the other display is not on? OR does it just not matter at all. Sorry for all the questions.
Luke

The switch lets you watch any input on any ouput. So you could watch Tivo on output A and BluRay on output B, or you could watch Bluray on output A and output B simultaneously.

The "least common denominator" rule comes into effect when you want to watch the same input on both output A and output B. The applies for both video and audio.

Thanks B. For 90% of the time I will be watching different source at the same time so maybe this will actually work for me. Even then, most of the time both displays won't be on at the same time.

The 5.1 audio down converting will still try your patience though. Even with my projector in standby mode (which is as off as it gets without cutting power to it) it still broadcast its EDID and if Output A and Output B were set to the same Input it would down convert the audio to stereo. So you have to make certain EVERY time you watch Output A that Output B is not set to the same input. Logistically it becomes extremely annoying.

Gotcha. I figure I wont be outputting the same source material to both displays or even have both displays running at the same time. So when I am watching a bluray through my receiver to my projector I will not be sending it to my LCD at the same time. I probably wont even have the LCD on for that matter. I will just have to make sure the source isn't being sent to the LCD even when it is off correct?

Correct, that's how it worked for me anyway. Best of luck and report back any new discoveries.

Thanks for all your help. I will report back but it will be a while since my room is still a work in progress. Running all the electrical and cables this week.

I thought I'd ask in this thread rather than start up a new one, since "matrixing" or switching multiple inputs for two outputs is the topic at hand, and I'm considering this Monoprice 4x2 device as a solution to my challenge:

I currently have a HT with HDMI 1.3 BD player, 1.3 AVR, and 1.2 PJ (and other sources like DVR, DVD, all will be via HDMI). All sources currently switched by the AVR.

I'm considering getting a 3D PJ, 3D BD player, and getting some 3D via cable (On demand, ESPN3D).

I'd like to keep the current PJ for non-3D use - I won't be able to sell it for much, and I like the pic (it's a DLP).

I'm going to keep my current BD player too, since it is an Oppo 83, for SACD/DVD-A etc.

So, in order to watch 3D on the 3D PJ and 2D on the old PJ (not at the same time!), I would need to switch between the AVR HDMI output and the 3D BD player HDMI out, run it to the PJs 40' of cable away, and then split the signal to either PJ. Theoretically the split can occur before the 40' run, necessitating another 40' HDMI cable.

If I use two Monoprice unpowered switchers, one modified to be a "selector-splitter", I can achieve my goals. I could also use a 4x2 (or 2x2) matrix switch, provided I keep the sources different when watching 3D BD to avoid common-denominator EDID issues.

I have made the assumption (based on comments here and elsewhere) that my HDMI1.2 PJ (a BenQ W5000) will report an HDMI1.2 EDID even if in standby, and therefore a "normal" powered splitter is not appropriate, because the source will always see the BenQ.

Suggestions or comments on either approach, and my assumptions in getting there?

shinksma

I would fault your Projector then. Check with the manufacturer. I have a 2.5 year old Epson 1080UB and it does the correct thing. I can always get PCM 5.1 or Dolby Digital or any of the other codecs that my AVR supports even with the projector plugged in and turned on or off. Never had a problem. So, my projector must be doing something right then.

That is very interesting because my projector is a Epson 1080UB Pro (essentially the same as yours)

Hmm. I have the HDX-402E from Monoprice. Is yours the same? I use the PS3 (gen 1) as my bluray player. I am able to get Deep Color and 24Hz output on my projector. I am able to get PCM 5.1 as well as DD and DTS in the receiver. I have a HD-DVD player in another room and I could bring it to my main room to see if that works fine too or not. May be it is a combination of the projector and the player.

I have question on the Remote for this item. Has anyone tried to get the commands for the remote into the Harmony one?

The device is supported by the harmony database. Just choose av switch as device type monoprice as brand and the model number. It is listed. Mine works great.

are there any tv's that won't reset the audio to stereo?

I posed the below question in my own thread, but maybe someone using the 4x2 can make me feel better about what I am trying to accomplish. I am also interested in what people are using to control these with? Looking for an RF/Wifi type solution that I could also use for lighting control.

THANKS!

Need to distribute 4 sources to 4 different rooms (sources will be located in hallway closethome network is also in there)

Sources
- 2 U-verse receiver/DVR's
- 1 Panasonic BDT-110 Bluray player
- 1 ATV (2nd Gen)
(there is also a Yamaha HTR-5460 in this closetpossibly put my PS3 in there as well)

TV's
- 2 26 Insignia LCD's (1080p output)
- 1 46 Sharp Aquos LCD (1080i)
- 1 32 Olevia LCD (1080p)

planning on using Monoprice 4x4 Matrix/Switcher (product #5704 , http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2 ). I believe the longest HDMI run will be no more than 50' from the closet. It seems pretty straight forward, correct?

Bump...Monoprice users please comment.

Yes, looks pretty straightforward. It should work fine.

Thank you