Xbox 360 automatically resets with HDMI switches - Page 7

I have the vizio gv47lf; hopefully Fall Update might fix this then if they are aware? I'm not sure even if they are.

I guess anothr option is to buy a cheap component cable and do the hack in this thread.

anyone having problems with their mod after the new dashboard update? mine was working fine and now I have no output from the optical out.

Yep. Before NXE, I was happily using HDMI for video and unmodified third party component cable (narrow enough to fit, didn't care about the resetting issue) for optical audio. Now anything plugged in at the same time as HDMI (usual cable, unmodified official vga) is giving either severely distorted video or the monitor just says it can't display that mode. I've even tried gutting my third party cable so nothing is connected except the 3 digital audio wires - I know that didn't used to actually provide an audio signal, but doing that is now enough to mess up HDMI for me too!

I'll try to connect the 18-20 and 22-24 if other people are having luck with that (but this cable is a mess of glue on the inside and I'll need some tape or solder or something, possibly something is shorted somewhere if I'm the only one with these severe problems), but if that's what you did instanoodles and NXE stopped it working then I guess we need some other method. I suppose perfectly replicating the wiring from the official dongle would get the audio working again (no luck on the reset issue I guess though)?

I'm back to just VGA until then but that means I have to keep switching cables because there's only one VGA input and there's a lot of ghosting even with the expensive official VGA cable.

Hi,

I got the same problem and I have removed all the cables except the optical ones ( so i got only pins 25,27,29 connected). The optical output works fine, but the xbox360 resets itself when switching between tv inputs.

I tried on TV and HDTV mode and same thing is happening.

Any suggestions?

Please see post #73. Apparently I'm not allowed to link to it because I'm new! You can just paste ?p=12560673#post12560673 after showthread.php to get to it or it's on page 3 of this thread.

For an official component cable (which I assume you have, with the TV/HDTV switch), the method was to leave the switch connected and switch it to TV, and remove the jumper wire between pins 26-28. If you disconnected the switch, you'll need to either reconnect it or put jumpers between 18-20 and 22-24. Should be OK removing all of the actual video and analog audio wires too if they're not needed. That's exactly what this thread was about and it used to work.

If you did it right, possibly this is a case of it not working after NXE. But I don't even get a usable HDMI video signal with my homemade audio dongle (or official MS VGA cable!) plugged in so if you can see anything on HDMI with anything else plugged in then it sounds like I'm having more serious problems with this than most people.

FWIW, I've tested the behavior of an unmodified MS HDTV component cable before and after the dashboard update and I found no difference. Optical audio worked before and it continues to work after the dashboard update. Switching HDMI inputs of course still causes the reboot.

Furthermore, disconnecting the jumper between pins 26 and 28 and putting the switch in the "standard" position, eliminates the reboot issue, same as before the dashboard update. So, no change there either.

If you don't have any jumpers, you will not get any optical audio nor any analog audio for that matter. That is the same as no A/V cable connected. HDMI works normally in that case. There are exactly 2 A/V jumper configurations that result in optical audio not working. No jumpers is one of them, the other is with 18-20 and 26-28 jumpered, leaving 22-24 open. In the latter case, you will still get analog audio, just no optical audio.

I did not experience any change in video quality regardless of jumper settings.

P.J.

Hello, I just purchased a new xbox360 pro, did the mod carefully, and of course the console resetted like crazy attached via HDMI to my dell 2408. A piece of tape over 28 solved that issue, but I still get NO optical sound output from the 360 to a set of logitech z5500. What could be the problem? Why is there no sound like the others stated above? Please help!! (PS- I also have the latest dashboard update).

I just wanted to let others know I tried a fix I read elsewhere - on your display, select something other than HDMI for a few moments while your xbox is booting up, THEN switch to HDMI.. VOILA, the optical sound comes back. This is a coding mistake/glitch in the new dashboard that MS refuses to fix as of yet and refuses to comment on.
Thanks to everyone for posting.

Sorry for the delayed response.

On my setup, it makes no difference if the display is selecting the 360 HDMI input or not. Thinking that it might have something to do with the 5 input monoprice HDMI switch that I'm using, I connected the 360 via HDMI directly to the TV and it made no difference whether the TV is set to the HDMI input when powering up the 360. I always get optical audio. I don't know if it's something about my TV Vs. your Dell monitor that makes the difference. I do have a 3+ yr old Dell 2405 monitor that I could try if I get sufficiently bored. Does the Dell 2408 incorporate any audio capability? I'm wondering if the 360 finds an audio capable HDMI device, if it then doesn't enable optical audio. My TV reports via HDMI handshake, that it cannot support audio over HDMI and perhaps then the 360 enables optical audio? If your Dell 2408 monitor reports that it is audio capable via HDMI handshake, then maybe the 360 decides that you don't need optical audio and so doesn't enable it. Powering up the 360 with the monitor selecting a different input would stop the 360 from doing HDMI handshake and seeing that your monitor is audio capable. Then the 360 would enable optical audio and later you switch the monitor to the HDMI input and the 360 neglects to disable optical audio, even though it sees via HDMI handshake, that the monitor is audio capable. If that's all true, then it's sort of a bug, but I see what they were trying to do. Unfortunately, when trying to make things foolproof, they only succeed in making fools of themselves.

P.J.

Valence01 & All who can help:

I have a Xbox360 premium from September 2008
I tried connecting the HD cable and HDMI to get 5.1 optical out to my receiver and video on the HDTV. After I realized it is getting reset each time I switch TV input and return to the Xbox HDMI input I removed the jumper 26-28 on the HD cable and got no sound at all (only on HDMI, no optical).

It is the bulky cable with the SD/HD switch. I tried it in both ways - both no sound, video, analog sound -nothing on HD cable.
I checked with a multimeter and I saw that on my cable the SD/HD switch actually jumpers pin 20 and 24 to GND when on SD and 24 to GND when on HD..

What's the thing here? Why I get no optical sound output and everybody else does with same cable and config?

help

That is an odd cable indeed. The standard HD AV cable grounds 20 and 24 in SD position, with 28 permanently grounded. In HDTV position, the switch disconnects the ground to 20 and 24, but leaves the hard-wired ground on 28. Normally 20 and 24 are tied together and then to the switch. What you descibed where 24 is still grounded in the HDTV position, will definitely result in no optical audio. When I tried that combo, not only did I not get optical audio, I did not get HDMI video, nor component video, though analog audio did work. Kinda useless. In any case, to get HDMI video with optical audio and no reboot issue, you want both 20 and 24 grounded and 28 not grounded. So, put the switch in the SDTV position.

I don't know how to make a table on this forum, else I'd show all 8 possible gnd/not gnd options for the 3 pins and what the results were. Suffice it to say, that there is only one useful combination (20 and 24 gnd, 28 not gnd) and this is exactly what the Microsoft audio dongle does. Other combinations do various things, that are generally more annoying than useful.

Edit: Ok it's not a table, but rather a picture of a table. Here it is anyway:



An 'x' means connected to gnd for that pin, while an 'o' means left open. Keep in mind that an HDMI connection always takes precedence. That is, if you have an HDMI cable connected from the 360 to a working HDMI display, it will always over-ride any other jumper settings. The column labeled 'reboot issue' indicates whether this jumper setting will have the reboot issue when using an HDMI connection.

P.J.

Just wanted to jump in. I just got a jasper arcade unit. Bought a used Microsoft component cable, cracked the case open, and cut the looped black wire and cut/ removed all the other wires except the optical. The switch I believe was in the HDTV position and was working ok the first time I used the unit. The next time, I had no sound out the optical. Figured I screwed the wires up and couldnt get it to work. Went back to my local gamestops and could only find a MS vga cable. This time I just split the case figuring I'd live with the reset issue as I didn't want to screw it up. For the hell of it, I made sure that worked and thentried the other one I cut and put the switch in the SDTV position (I think it is, it is pushed closest to where it goes into the system), and what do you know--I have optical sound and no reset issue!!

I don't know if anyone has mentioned the monoprice cable yet, but I just successfully got this going on my 360.

Monoprice sells the 4 in 1 cable for PS3/PS2, Wii, and Xbox 360 component out and that connector for the xbox 360 has enough clearance for the HDMI cable.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

So I cut the end off of that and cracked it open. Its a little different than any of the other cables mentioned here, and _alot_ of hot glue mess. The difference here is that 26 and 28 are jumpered by a glob of solder, and only 20 and 24 are jumpered, but not hooked to ground. So, after removing the glob of solder on 26 and 28, and removing the jumper between 20 and 24 (not necessary really but I wanted it to be closest to the MS dongle), then grounding 20 to 18, and 24 to 22, everything works just fine.

Would have been alot easier if I hadn't ripped off the +5v to the TOSlink connector first, be careful when opening this case.... :[

hey, mabie you guys can help me here. we have a samsung lcdhdtv, the xbox360 is connected to it but just randomly stopped working. now all it shows is mode not supported? how can i fix this, i tried unplugging, replugging, a different tv etc. nothing seems to be working. ive switched the hd cable on the xbox back and forth from tv to Hdtv, still nothing. help me out please, thanks

Good to see you got it working. That cable must be somewhat different than the picture on the monoprice website, as that one looks the same as their VGA 360 cable, which I have and it absolutely will not fit at the same time as a typical hdmi cable. That's good to know that the monoprice combo cable does have sufficient clearance.

As for 20 jumpered to 24, that is expected. If they're not also grounded or there is some means (switch) to ground them, then the cable could not be used for standard def video, as that requires 20, 24 and 28 all grounded. That would be quite comical to have 20 jumpered to 24, but not to anything else, as clearly the folks making the cable don't understand how it works. If they're not both being grounded, it doesn't matter whether 20 is connected to 24, or not. If they're both being grounded, then obviously, they're connected together by virtue of ground.

On the subject of hot-melt glue, I should say that on some connectors, this is the only thing that holds the pins in place. If you remove a lot of the hot-melt glue and then don't replace it, you may find that the pin contacts push back into the connector when you plug it in and then they don't make contact at all, giving erroneous results. I've also seen issues with the entire plastic that holds the pins, getting pushed back within the metal wrap-around as the connector is plugged in and that preventing contact for all pins.

P.J.

If you cut the 26-28 jumper and then had the switch in the HDTV position, that would behave the same as no cable. That is, no sound on the optical output. You absolutely have to have pin 20 or 24 grounded, in order to get sound on the optical output. If you don't want to have the reset issue, then you must either through the switch, or other means, ground both pins 20 and 24, as you discovered.

P.J.

I tried using a Microsoft S-Video cable for optical audio and found that cutting the jumper wire would disable the audio. I was curious what the HDMI dongle jumpers where, so i got one to examine. I didn't find this thread here until after all my research was complete.

Here is a table that shows the jumpers and wiring of all the various Microsoft A/V cables. I have the composite, s-video, component, and HDMI cables so all that info I know is correct. The VGA and SCART info is from various sources so there may be some errors.

Hmmm....with the wiring as you show for S-Video cable, I got nothing out. I'll have to revisit that. I had wondered why none of the jumper combinations gave S-Video. I was thinking that maybe S-Video was done by a simple high pass for chroma and low pass for luma from composite, inside the connector housing, but what you posted makes more sense.

Edit: I went back and tried to see if I could get S-Video out using just one jumper on 22-24 and it did not work. I got composite on pins 5-7, but no luma or chroma on 1-3 or 2-4.

Given that you verified the wiring on your S-Video cable and referring to the table I previously posted, cutting the one jumper from 22-24 would result in no optical or analog audio. In fact, it makes it appear to the 360 that no cable is attached. If you'd added a jumper to either 18-20 or 26-28, optical and analog audio would be output. Of course the 18-20 jumper is preferable, since it eliminates the reboot issue by replicating the HDMI audio dongle setup.

I confirm the VGA cable wiring, as I have one.

P.J.

It know it works and it appears to be a genuine Microsoft cable. Pins 21 & 23 are mysterious. The XBOX motherboard does not appear to have ground on these pins, but the cable connects them to the bundle of shield leads. Here are pictures of the cable - maybe I missed something...

Odd Pins Even Pins

I was going to hack the composite cable that came with the system (Jasper Arcade), but there where only the used pins installed. A blob of solder is used instead of the usual black jumper wire...

Odd Pins Even Pins

The HDMI audio dongle also had only the used pins populated...

Odd Pins Even Pins

Great forum, as always...
So I cut the black wire, I am 99% sure I didn't hit anything else, although I had some issues taking the metal cover off. (I always screw up the easy part!) Anyway, that did the trick, HOWEVER, I am now getting moderate to heavy crackling via my optical cable. (didn't think this was even posible) Does anyone know what I did? Am I screwed?
thanks in advance
Joe

Actually, removing the metal cover is the hard part. Assuming that you did the mod to a component cable, the only thing to worry about there with respect to optical audio output, is to be sure that the 6 pin connector and it's wires are still in tact.

P.J.

thanks P.J., so would you assume that since I am getting flickering audio, would you assume that that is where my problem is.
Joe

It's a good start. Just 3 of the 6 wires are required for the optical audio connection. The other 3 are for the SD/HD switch. As long as the 3 for optical audio are in tact, then there shouldn't be any issue. Pins 25, 27 and 29 are the ones for optical audio. If any of those pins has an intermittent connection, it would cause the problem that you're having. The optical transceiver could also be a problem if it's not up to snuff. It could also be the optical cable too. Swapping out for a different cable would rule that out. Aside from that, does the optical input on your receiver work with other sources, without any 'flicker'? Even if a different input is working with another source, that still doesn't prove that the specific input is working properly. Swapping inputs if possible, would help to narrow down the problem.

P.J.

I see that you edited your table now, to add pin 21 and 23 jumpers. So, is this now verified as required for S-Video? I haven't gotten around to testing it myself, as my current setup has the 3 usual jumpers (18-20, 22-24, 26-28) brought out to a 3 slot dipswitch. I'll have to open up the connector, to get to 21 and 23 in order to test. It seems odd to me that they would use the shield as the gnd connection, but if you tested it, I can buy that, though I will of course verify it anyway.

P.J.

Thanks Pj,
I'll take a look at it tonight. Should whether or not I put the metal box back on have any relevence? Or whether or not it is put back on properly? How about the main grey cable that goes to the end of the cable? That seems a little nicked up due to the metal casing.
Thanks again for your help.
Joe

It will work normally, whether the metal case is there or not. If by 'main grey cable' you mean the one with the component and analog audio connections, you don't need that for optical audio out to work. Most people cut the wires for the component and analog audio connections with no ill effect.

P.J.

right, I should have known that. anyway, the bad news, i tried another cable, still no luck, in fact now, i am now barely getting any audio. If I jiggle the line a little I can get audio for a second, but thats it. I guess I really screwed it up.

It does seem odd that the shield is used for mode selection. Maybe just an assembly time optimization - two less solder joints.

I did some test with pins 21 an 23. Pin 22 was always grounded.

With pin 21 grounded there was no s-video.

With pin 23 grounded there would be s-video if the cable was plugged in before boot, but not if the cable was plugging in afterwards.

With pin 21 and 23 grounded there was always s-video, even if the cable was plugged in after boot up.

I got a Mad Catz s-video cable from a local store and it also has pins 21 and 23 grounded. It has a small PCB inside that connects 21 & 23 to 26. The quality of the cable is very poor. Thin wires an no shielding! I think I am going to make a coaxial digital audio dongle out of it because it is thin like the Microsoft HDMI audio dongle.

Please do some testing if you can. It would be good to have some confirmation of my suspicion that pins 21 and 23 are fouth and fifth mode select pins.

Ditto, I've got the same problem.

I spoke to Microsoft support about it three times (the first time the call dropped). Each time I called the technician did not even know what *their* official audio adapter was, and I had to refer them to the manual.

I requested a replacement cable twice, and both times got an HDMI cable rather than the audio adapter.

I gave up the second time and bought one off eBay, but I still get the continuous restarts with both HDMI and the audio adapter plugged in - a pain in the rear as I want to use optical out.

I've lived with it for almost a year, but am getting annoyed by it again and am on the verge of returning my 360 for repair, unless anyone knows whether there is a simple fix?

Edit: FWIW I'm using a Sharp Aquos TV, but I'm not convinced the TV is the issue.

You could rule out the possibility of something to do with the TV, by trying it on a different TV. It might be worth a try before sending your 360 off for repair. I can't imagine exactly how the TV could create this issue, but in the wonderful world that is HDMI, anything appears possible. I'm thinking that it might be difficult to successfully communicate the issue to the repair guys. On the other hand, if they send you back a different refurb 360, that would likely solve the problem, assuming that the 360 is the source of the problem. If they send you back the same unit with a NTF, then it will have been a waste of time.

One last thought; does your 360 restart when switching away and back to HDMI on the TV if the audio dongle is NOT present? I know that you won't get audio, but just as an experiment.....

P.J.