Xbox 360 automatically resets with HDMI switches - Page 21

Originally Posted by Nimo

What I mean is I disconnected every wire in the stock dongle and it still reboots. From what I read about this particular box is they did away with N and S bridges on the mobo and everything runs through the CPU on a single chip graphics audio etc..

Originally Posted by rabidturtles359

Tried on another TV. Same results. Input switching is fine but power cycle. When turning back on reboots it

Originally Posted by Valence01

The only explanation that I can think of, is that somehow your TV manages to avoid a "hot plug" event on input switching, but can't do that on a power cycle. Still, that theory requires the dongle to be wired incorrectly. Then again you're saying that it behaves that way on a different TV too.

A little explanation here. Per the HDMI standard, if a sink device (TV, monitor, etc) is not actively displaying content from a given input and communicating over the I2C link, the source device will assume that it will receive "hot plug" notification via dedicated pin in the HDMI cable, when the sink device is actively receiving again.

What the 360 does when it recognizes the "hot plug" event is first check the jumper settings. If it sees that 18-20 and 22-24 are present, but not 26-28, then it assumes that an HDMI audio dongle is present and then for unknown reasons, it simply resumes previous operation with no reboot. If it did not recognize the HDMI audio dongle present via the jumpers, but rather it sees a jumper config corresponding to HD component, Composite, S-Video, S-CART, etc, then it freaks out and reboots. No jumpers at all is also accepted as a valid HDMI config since it corresponds to no dongle present.

There has been some speculation that the reason for this is that the 360 thinks that someone is attempting to circumvent HDMI HDCP protection by starting up with HDMI working and playing protected content, but then plugging in an AV cable and hoping that the 360 will auto-switch to component output and allow analog component recording for protected content. This is all speculation. Only Microsoft knows why they've implemented this strategy in the firmware.

I suppose at this point, if I could see pictures of the top and bottom of the dongle with the cover removed, I may be able to see something, but honestly, if it's wired with just pins 18-20 and 22-24 jumpered, it should work. Hmmm....unless there is a problem with the hot plug connection in your HDMI cable. Can you try a different HDMI cable?

P.J.

Originally Posted by rabidturtles359

With the second TV I also used a different HDMI cable and different Xbox. I have pictures of my dongles open but can't post from my phone. Can I email them to you?

Originally Posted by rabidturtles359

To throw this out there. Just tried official Ms dongle it didn't have any reboots. So its not my TV or HDMI

Originally Posted by rabidturtles359

To throw this out there. Just tried official Ms dongle it didn't have any reboots. So its not my TV or HDMI

Originally Posted by sage11x

Third party audio break-out dongles have a reputation for causing system resets. Take a quick look at the customer reviews over at amazon.com and you'll see that this is a known issue. Only way to avoid it is to buy an official part or buy an S model console that has a dedicated optical out.

Originally Posted by Valence01

Here's an annotated version of the picture of the dongle you emailed:



So, this is par for the non-Microsoft dongle course with just pins 18-20 jumpered via solder blob. That's the jumper setting for a VGA cable. As previously mentioned, you need to add a jumper from 22-24, but since on this dongle there are no pins installed in those locations, you'll have to harvest pins from some of the others that you don't need. 14 and 16 are normally left channel audio and if you're using optical Toslink, they're fair game. They can sometimes be a bitch to extract though. Once extracted, shove them carefully into the locations for 22 and 24 and solder blob them together. In a pinch, you can only install pin 24 and jumper with a wire to pin 20/18. Some of these 3rd party dongles have all of the pins installed, making the mod a bit easier, eliminating the need to move pins around.

If you've already done this mod and it still doesn't work, then there has to be something wrong with your 360. Otherwise I don't know where to go from here.

P.J.

Originally Posted by rabidturtles359

Wow I'm dumb. Lol I assumed that 14,16 were 22,24. Never counted lol. Well I inserted the pins for 22,24. Jumped them. And everything works. I probably could have avoided all this if I counted haha. So I thank you for sticking in there for me. I have two free dongles that work like official Ms ones. Thanks again

Btw for anyone with tritton gaming headsets you can order this dongle for free

Originally Posted by biglen

For anyone who is cutting the black looped wire, make sure the switch on the side of the dongle is set to TV, not HDMI. If it's set to HDMI, you will not get digital audio for some reason. I learned the hard way.

Originally Posted by 00firebird

I have a somewhat newer component and it looks a bit different than the ones I'm seeing posted. Can someone tell me what needs to be cut here ? I don't care if it will never do component again as I have a spare.
I think I see the black loop wire it looks pretty close to the blue/yellow/green that go to the optical, between the red/white/black which are also thin wires (stereo ones i think). What else can be cut off to clean it up..all of the big wires? I don't see any coming/going from the sd/hd selector switch. can the whole grey wire be cut off at the copper wrap?

Originally Posted by 00firebird

working! no restarts. thanks!!

Originally Posted by genericuser8888

A few thoughts...

1) Most 3rd party dongles cause the Xbox 360 reboot problem.

2) I've heard reports that the Microsoft Official dongle causes problems if used in conjunction with HDMI. I'm not sure if this is the reboot problem, or another problem. But, that's the rumor I've read on multiple sites. Microsoft no longer produces the dongle, but they area available on ebay and other sites.

3) The monoprice dongle is the only dongle that is wired correctly and does not force reboots.

--Now, I have a problem.

I, too, am running HDMI to my tv, but I want to use optical for audio. I bought a Turtle Beach X42 surround sound headset, and I need optical audio to run surround sound. However, I hear rumors that the Mad Catz aftermarket dongle only passes PCM stereo through the optical port (although it may accept 5.1).

So, is anyone using the monoprice cable (or the microsoft official cable) in conjunction with HDMI? And, if so, is the optical signal 5.1 or PCM?

In other words, is it even possible to run HDMI and still get 5.1 audio over optical? ...I'd hate to have a $159 headset that I can't even use for surround.

To be clear, I am running an Xbox 360 Elite with HDMI. I am not running a newer "slim" Xbox.

Originally Posted by genericuser8888

sorry for the double post. but I had two more questions that maybe you guys can answer.

I heard that the Mad Catz brand dongle does not support 5.1 over optical, and that the optical on that one only sends PCM stereo. Does anyone know if this is true or not?

And, now Gamestop has their own branded dongle. My local Gamestop only had one Mad Catz in stock but had 3 or 4 Gamestop branded ones, which strangely enough, are not on the web site. --At least, the *packaging* was branded as Gamestop. I did not see another brand on the stuff anywhere, but I did not look very close either. Does anyone have any experience with these?

Regardless, I've got a Microsoft official adapter coming from ebay, and I'll probably order a spare from Monoprice if I have problems with the official one. After all, there appears to be universal agreement that the Monoprice cable is cheap and does quite well without any problems.

So anyway, is the Mad Catz adapter only PCM stereo? Or is that rumor wrong and it does send 5.1? (I don't see why it wouldn't work with PCM, but someone over on the gamestop web site says it's only PCM stereo, so I'm just searching for some clarification from AVSForums, cause you guys usually know what you're talking about.)

And, has anyone had any experience with the Gamestop branded ones? It looks like they just bought up some aftermarket 3rd party adapters and put them in a bag similar to what you would see "used" items in, but these are not being sold as used. $19.99.

Originally Posted by Valence01

Just snip the black loop wire shown in the picture:



Be sure to put the switch in the SD position and you should be good to go.

You can cut off everything to the left of the thin red wire.

P.J.

Originally Posted by ruffnut

Hi, am I right in thinking I could cut all the wires to the left of the red wire and remove the cable completely?

cheers

Originally Posted by jmcinvale

I'm new here having found this site while looking for info on how to fix this problem.

For those with the audio dongle either Microsoft or aftermarket (except the one mentioned that is wired right) with a rebooting Xbox problem just open up the connector on the cable and solder pins 22 & 24 together. Just did that and my Xbox 360 does not reboot any more when I switch TV inputs while using the HDMI cable. Looking at the rear of the connector the two pins will be just to the left of pins 20 & 18 (the pins that are already soldered together).

Originally Posted by jmcinvale

IIRC mine is the official Microsoft dongle.

Any HDMI AUDIO dongle that doesn't have pins 18 & 20 soldered together and 22 & 24 soldered together is wired incorrectly as soldering those for pins together (22 & 24 to each other and 18 & 20 to each other) tell the Xbox you are using the HDMI audio dongle.

That said for any dongle with those pins soldered together and still rebooting there is either something else in the plug miss wired or a problem with the xbox360 itself.