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Xbox 360 automatically resets with HDMI switches - Page 22

post #631 of 644
PROBLEM FIXED with soldering solution above.

My XBox360 is connected to a projector (Optoma ML500) with HDMI and connected to powered speakers using an non-Microsoft A/V adapter (dongle).

The XBox would play games but not DVD's. Unplug the dongle and it plays DVD's just fine. While it is playing a DVD, the video will shut off if the dongle is plugged in.

Soldering 22 and 24 fixed my problem but I wanted to describe the unique symptom for anyone searching with these details.

THANK YOU!
post #632 of 644
I recently purchase slim edition and the cable seems to look different from everyone else's cable..



Do I still snip the black wire? It doesn't appear to loop back as described confused.gif

PS- My only use for this cable is audio output, I don't care if it ever outputs video again rolleyes.gif
post #633 of 644
Quote:
Originally Posted by invalidx View Post

I recently purchase slim edition and the cable seems to look different from everyone else's cable..

Do I still snip the black wire? It doesn't appear to loop back as described confused.gif
PS- My only use for this cable is audio output, I don't care if it ever outputs video again rolleyes.gif

What sort of cable is this shown in the picture? Is it a dongle? An SD composite cable? It kinda looks like a standard SD composite cable. If that is the case, then you don't want to snip any wires. You actually have to add 2 pins and a wire jumper between the 2 pins. The difficult part is that the standard SD composite cable is only populated with the pins that are needed for standard SD composite. So, there usually aren't spare unused pins that can be "harvested" and installed in the proper location (pins 18 and 20). There is already a jumper between pins 22-24 and that needs to stay. Sometimes that is just a blob of solder bridging the pins. In any case, you can steal the two pins that are used for composite video output and install them into the pin 18 and 20 locations and jumper them together. That is all assuming that you don't ever want to use the cable for SD composite use and only want analog audio via the two RCA connectors.

P.J.
post #634 of 644
Wondering if one could just add a 1/8" stereo jack to the xbox case and connect the optical digital transmitter from the cable to a 1/8" stereo plug? That would eliminate the adapter cable alltogether.
post #635 of 644
Thanks for the response Valence. I did some testing and got it to work without messing with any of the wires. I simply put some tape over all of the pins to the left of the red pin (assuming you're looking at the connector with the fat side on top). This takes a little trial and error.. if you go too far to the right with the tape you will either a) eliminate all audio or b) only have audio out of 1 speaker -- in both cases you just need to put less tape biggrin.gif
post #636 of 644
Quote:
Originally Posted by invalidx View Post

Thanks for the response Valence. I did some testing and got it to work without messing with any of the wires. I simply put some tape over all of the pins to the left of the red pin (assuming you're looking at the connector with the fat side on top). This takes a little trial and error.. if you go too far to the right with the tape you will either a) eliminate all audio or b) only have audio out of 1 speaker -- in both cases you just need to put less tape biggrin.gif

Something doesn't add up here. The only reason to make any mods to the cable is to eliminate the reboot issue. If you don't care about that, then it should output audio over the RCA jacks with no changes required. I don't know how taping over the pins could've done anything useful. There are 3 pairs of pins that tell the 360 what audio to output depending on which are jumpered together. The Microsoft HDMI audio dongle jumpers pins 18-20 and 22-24. That configuration tells the 360 to output analog audio over the RCA jacks and digital audio over Toslink (not present on SD cable). Any other config except no jumpers, results in the reboot issue, though analog and digital audio work normally except for the no jumper case.

I think that you must have taped over 22-24 and that is the "no jumper" case for an SD composite cable which on the older 360 results in no analog or digital audio, but it must be true that for the slim 360, it still puts out analog audio even with no jumpers at all. That makes sense considering that the slim outputs digital audio over the built-in Toslink connector with no cable or dongle attached.

Still the SD composite cable should've output analog audio without any need to tape over any pins. Perhaps the slim is more different than I thought.

P.J.
post #637 of 644
Quote:
Originally Posted by invalidx View Post

Thanks for the response Valence. I did some testing and got it to work without messing with any of the wires. I simply put some tape over all of the pins to the left of the red pin (assuming you're looking at the connector with the fat side on top). This takes a little trial and error.. if you go too far to the right with the tape you will either a) eliminate all audio or b) only have audio out of 1 speaker -- in both cases you just need to put less tape biggrin.gif

Hey, your solution Rocks! biggrin.gif:D

I've got original AV cable (RCA) connected to my HT set, while utilizing the HDMI at the same time without having to pry up the AV connector per se. Now my console won't restart again every time I switch channel on my TV.. Thanks!
post #638 of 644
Thank you so much for this TIP.... worked perfectly.

I have set up:
Xbox -> HDMI -> Denon AMP digital audio -> HDTV Digital Video (HDMI Switching)
Xbox -> A/V Plug -> TB X41 -> Headset

So i originally hacked the "out of the box" A/V cable /Plug, so I can have 5.1 audio going to my Theatre via HDMI, and have analog "red/white" going to my turtle beaches for 7.1 DP logic /Mic. Every time I would switch inputs on my receiver (HDMI switching) it would turn off my Xbox, but that was a problem cause I use my Xbox for my Telus optik TV, and everytime the Xbox restarts it has to load the Optik info which could take 3 min. now with the additional hack provided removing the loop cable (Jumper), I get to keep my xbox on fulltime...

Thankyou
post #639 of 644
im using vizio with the same problem
post #640 of 644
Hi all!! First of all many thanks for the research! It seems to work fine by almost everyone. I´m writing here because I have a strange problem with my monitor. I´ve done the patch and I can have HDMI audio and video on my TV and also optical audio through toslink on my headset.

Problem comes with my Monitor (LG D2343). In this case the console starts a neverending start-restart loop. It seems that the Monitor "sends" some kind of information to the console and it collapses and restarts (for example, if I´m on VGA the console seems to be on without any problem. When I change to HDMI, the neverending restart loop starts). The funny thing is that with a HDMI-DVI cable everything works with the Monitor... problem is, that I use the DVI input for my PC so I have used it just for testing purposes.

Any idea? Many thanks in advance!!
post #641 of 644
Quote:
Originally Posted by parseval43 View Post

Hi all!! First of all many thanks for the research! It seems to work fine by almost everyone. I´m writing here because I have a strange problem with my monitor. I´ve done the patch and I can have HDMI audio and video on my TV and also optical audio through toslink on my headset.

Problem comes with my Monitor (LG D2343). In this case the console starts a neverending start-restart loop. It seems that the Monitor "sends" some kind of information to the console and it collapses and restarts (for example, if I´m on VGA the console seems to be on without any problem. When I change to HDMI, the neverending restart loop starts). The funny thing is that with a HDMI-DVI cable everything works with the Monitor... problem is, that I use the DVI input for my PC so I have used it just for testing purposes.

Any idea? Many thanks in advance!!

Divide and conquer. Disconnect the AV cable, leaving only the HDMI cable. Is the infinite reboot loop still there? If so, I'd expect that the "patch" (whatever that means) wasn't done properly.

P.J.
post #642 of 644
Hi Valence. Many thanks! Unfortunately the idea didn´t worked. Just with HDMI the whole thing works (no reboot), but I have no audio since my Monitor has no loudspeaker or optical output. Problem is trying to take audio out through the dongle.

In my TV works so I assume the patch was done correctly... problem comes with my Monitor and the HDMI input (DVI works fine).

My patch was done as follows. I removed ALL pins of the connector and added only the three needed for the optical toslink box and the 4 for the jumpers (18 and 20 soldered together and same for 22 and 24). The rest of pins are empty.
Edited by parseval43 - 7/7/13 at 11:15am
post #643 of 644
Quote:
Originally Posted by parseval43 View Post

Hi Valence. Many thanks! Unfortunately the idea didn´t worked. Just with HDMI the whole thing works (no reboot), but I have no audio since my Monitor has no loudspeaker or optical output. Problem is trying to take audio out through the dongle.

In my TV works so I assume the patch was done correctly... problem comes with my Monitor and the HDMI input (DVI works fine).

My patch was done as follows. I removed ALL pins of the connector and added only the three needed for the optical toslink box and the 4 for the jumpers (18 and 20 soldered together and same for 22 and 24). The rest of pins are empty.

Something not compatible between the monitor and the 360, but you say it does work when connected via HDMI=>DVI cable to the monitor. That's pretty weird since DVI is predominately a sub-set of HDMI. It carries all the same signals with respect to hot-plug detection and display discovery handshake. Most monitors that have both DVI and HDMI have the two inputs wired to 2 different sections of an internal switcher, which has no idea whatsoever that one is DVI and the other HDMI. That's how similar the two interfaces are. If you say the 360 works fine via HDMI=>DVI cable to the monitor, then I'd do the opposite for the PC. That is, DVI to HDMI cable to the monitor. That should work with no issue.

One more thought. I believe that some of the newer 360s will actually output optical without any jumper wires at all. Of course, those have a dedicated optical port not requiring a dongle. If by some chance, the change is actually to the software inside the 360, then even the older 360s will work with zero jumpers. So, if you're game, I'd try removing all wires except for the 3 toslink connections. In the past, that results in no optical or analog audio, but it's just possible that MS have made this easy accidentally.

P.J.
post #644 of 644
Hi Valence! Many thanks for your help! My 360 is an old black one with HDMI (prior o post Elite) that for sure came without a dongle. I used one the whole time with the DVI input and worked fine these years. My PC was connected through VGA. Now, I have new PC and want to use DVI and that was the reason to change to HDMI (my monitor has VGA, DVI and HDMI inputs). But as you say, I can further use the 360 with DVI and PC with HDMI. At the end of the day, is the same and I won´t lose so much time playing with settings, jumpers and other things. Thanks anyway! biggrin.gif
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