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Xbox 360 automatically resets with HDMI switches - Page 22

post #631 of 639
PROBLEM FIXED with soldering solution above.

My XBox360 is connected to a projector (Optoma ML500) with HDMI and connected to powered speakers using an non-Microsoft A/V adapter (dongle).

The XBox would play games but not DVD's. Unplug the dongle and it plays DVD's just fine. While it is playing a DVD, the video will shut off if the dongle is plugged in.

Soldering 22 and 24 fixed my problem but I wanted to describe the unique symptom for anyone searching with these details.

THANK YOU!
post #632 of 639
I recently purchase slim edition and the cable seems to look different from everyone else's cable..



Do I still snip the black wire? It doesn't appear to loop back as described confused.gif

PS- My only use for this cable is audio output, I don't care if it ever outputs video again rolleyes.gif
post #633 of 639
Quote:
Originally Posted by invalidx View Post

I recently purchase slim edition and the cable seems to look different from everyone else's cable..

Do I still snip the black wire? It doesn't appear to loop back as described confused.gif
PS- My only use for this cable is audio output, I don't care if it ever outputs video again rolleyes.gif

What sort of cable is this shown in the picture? Is it a dongle? An SD composite cable? It kinda looks like a standard SD composite cable. If that is the case, then you don't want to snip any wires. You actually have to add 2 pins and a wire jumper between the 2 pins. The difficult part is that the standard SD composite cable is only populated with the pins that are needed for standard SD composite. So, there usually aren't spare unused pins that can be "harvested" and installed in the proper location (pins 18 and 20). There is already a jumper between pins 22-24 and that needs to stay. Sometimes that is just a blob of solder bridging the pins. In any case, you can steal the two pins that are used for composite video output and install them into the pin 18 and 20 locations and jumper them together. That is all assuming that you don't ever want to use the cable for SD composite use and only want analog audio via the two RCA connectors.

P.J.
post #634 of 639
Wondering if one could just add a 1/8" stereo jack to the xbox case and connect the optical digital transmitter from the cable to a 1/8" stereo plug? That would eliminate the adapter cable alltogether.
post #635 of 639
Thanks for the response Valence. I did some testing and got it to work without messing with any of the wires. I simply put some tape over all of the pins to the left of the red pin (assuming you're looking at the connector with the fat side on top). This takes a little trial and error.. if you go too far to the right with the tape you will either a) eliminate all audio or b) only have audio out of 1 speaker -- in both cases you just need to put less tape biggrin.gif
post #636 of 639
Quote:
Originally Posted by invalidx View Post

Thanks for the response Valence. I did some testing and got it to work without messing with any of the wires. I simply put some tape over all of the pins to the left of the red pin (assuming you're looking at the connector with the fat side on top). This takes a little trial and error.. if you go too far to the right with the tape you will either a) eliminate all audio or b) only have audio out of 1 speaker -- in both cases you just need to put less tape biggrin.gif

Something doesn't add up here. The only reason to make any mods to the cable is to eliminate the reboot issue. If you don't care about that, then it should output audio over the RCA jacks with no changes required. I don't know how taping over the pins could've done anything useful. There are 3 pairs of pins that tell the 360 what audio to output depending on which are jumpered together. The Microsoft HDMI audio dongle jumpers pins 18-20 and 22-24. That configuration tells the 360 to output analog audio over the RCA jacks and digital audio over Toslink (not present on SD cable). Any other config except no jumpers, results in the reboot issue, though analog and digital audio work normally except for the no jumper case.

I think that you must have taped over 22-24 and that is the "no jumper" case for an SD composite cable which on the older 360 results in no analog or digital audio, but it must be true that for the slim 360, it still puts out analog audio even with no jumpers at all. That makes sense considering that the slim outputs digital audio over the built-in Toslink connector with no cable or dongle attached.

Still the SD composite cable should've output analog audio without any need to tape over any pins. Perhaps the slim is more different than I thought.

P.J.
post #637 of 639
Quote:
Originally Posted by invalidx View Post

Thanks for the response Valence. I did some testing and got it to work without messing with any of the wires. I simply put some tape over all of the pins to the left of the red pin (assuming you're looking at the connector with the fat side on top). This takes a little trial and error.. if you go too far to the right with the tape you will either a) eliminate all audio or b) only have audio out of 1 speaker -- in both cases you just need to put less tape biggrin.gif

Hey, your solution Rocks! biggrin.gif:D

I've got original AV cable (RCA) connected to my HT set, while utilizing the HDMI at the same time without having to pry up the AV connector per se. Now my console won't restart again every time I switch channel on my TV.. Thanks!
post #638 of 639
Thank you so much for this TIP.... worked perfectly.

I have set up:
Xbox -> HDMI -> Denon AMP digital audio -> HDTV Digital Video (HDMI Switching)
Xbox -> A/V Plug -> TB X41 -> Headset

So i originally hacked the "out of the box" A/V cable /Plug, so I can have 5.1 audio going to my Theatre via HDMI, and have analog "red/white" going to my turtle beaches for 7.1 DP logic /Mic. Every time I would switch inputs on my receiver (HDMI switching) it would turn off my Xbox, but that was a problem cause I use my Xbox for my Telus optik TV, and everytime the Xbox restarts it has to load the Optik info which could take 3 min. now with the additional hack provided removing the loop cable (Jumper), I get to keep my xbox on fulltime...

Thankyou
post #639 of 639
im using vizio with the same problem
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