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Low freq. decay time question

post #1 of 28
Thread Starter 
Can anyone tell me (or at least point me in the right direction for the info) what acceptable/ideal low frequency decay times might be? I get the idea that, generally, you want as low of a decay time as possible, but I'll be damned if I can find an actual reference point. 100ms? 200ms? 300ms?

I'm trying to make the best of a room that is SO far from ideal, it's not even funny and can't tell if I'm actually getting closer to a respectable acoustic enviornment or if I still have miles to go. I'm hoping for the former, but I'm expecting the latter...

Thanks in advance.


Scott
post #2 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by ssteel01 View Post

Can anyone tell me (or at least point me in the right direction for the info) what acceptable/ideal low frequency decay times might be?

There's no single number, all rooms are different, and all rooms have longer decays at modal frequencies than at non-modal frequencies. But to answer your question anyway, I'd aim for 200 milliseconds or less in most domestic size rooms. Below is a waterfall plot for my living room, which has plenty of bass trapping, and the decay times are less than 200 milliseconds (to -30 dB) at all but the very lowest frequencies. This is the tightest sounding room you'll ever hear.

--Ethan

post #3 of 28
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ethan Winer View Post

There's no single number, all rooms are different, and all rooms have longer decays at modal frequencies than at non-modal frequencies. But to answer your question anyway, I'd aim for 200 milliseconds or less in most domestic size rooms. Below is a waterfall plot for my living room, which has plenty of bass trapping, and the decay times are less than 200 milliseconds (to -30 dB) at all but the very lowest frequencies. This is the tightest sounding room you'll ever hear.

--Ethan

Thanks for the response Ethan. It really helps puts things in perspective for me. You've probably forgotten more about room acoustics than I'll ever know, so I certainly appreciate your info.

Not looking to exploit free acoustics advice, but just for the sake of reference, here's what I ended up with. I thought it looked okay, but wasn't quite sure how to interpret it.




Scott
post #4 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by ssteel01 View Post

Thanks for the response Ethan. It really helps puts things in perspective for me. You've probably forgotten more about room acoustics than I'll ever know, so I certainly appreciate your info.

Not looking to exploit free acoustics advice, but just for the sake of reference, here's what I ended up with. I thought it looked okay, but wasn't quite sure how to interpret it.




Scott

Scott that is not looking so bad. What is your room size, how are you set up (acoustics, speaker and setting) and what kind of treatment do you have now? 40hz to 80hz needs a little help.

Glenn
post #5 of 28
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by myfipie View Post

Scott that is not looking so bad. What is your room size, how are you set up (acoustics, speaker and setting) and what kind of treatment do you have now? 40hz to 80hz needs a little help.

Glenn

Room is a very undesirable 12x13x8 common use TV room (i.e., subject to WAF). That plot was made using the main speakers only (Revel F32). The room has a nasty ~12db peak around 40Hz that I've had to clean up using an EQ. Despite knocking the peak down, I apparently still have a bit of a ringing problem. The only real treatments I have are a set of the GIK 244's straddling the front corners of the room. In the pseudo-treatment pile, there are 2 sofas and an area rug.

I'm primarily concerned with trying to get things into the best possible shape for 2ch music. I figure if I can do that, HT should just kind of fall in line. In a nutshell, I guess I'm still trying to learn what problem(s) I have and then try to figure out how to address them in THIS particular room.


Scott
post #6 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ethan Winer View Post

There's no single number, all rooms are different, and all rooms have longer decays at modal frequencies than at non-modal frequencies. But to answer your question anyway, I'd aim for 200 milliseconds or less in most domestic size rooms. Below is a waterfall plot for my living room, which has plenty of bass trapping, and the decay times are less than 200 milliseconds (to -30 dB) at all but the very lowest frequencies. This is the tightest sounding room you'll ever hear.

Remember that decay times are measured as RT60 values, Ethan. This is the time for sound to decay by 60 dB, not 30 dB. So if decay is 30 dB over 200 msecs, the RT60 is 400 msecs.

- Terry
post #7 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by ssteel01 View Post

Room is a very undesirable 12x13x8 common use TV room (i.e., subject to WAF). That plot was made using the main speakers only (Revel F32). The room has a nasty ~12db peak around 40Hz that I've had to clean up using an EQ. Despite knocking the peak down, I apparently still have a bit of a ringing problem. The only real treatments I have are a set of the GIK 244's straddling the front corners of the room. In the pseudo-treatment pile, there are 2 sofas and an area rug.

I'm primarily concerned with trying to get things into the best possible shape for 2ch music. I figure if I can do that, HT should just kind of fall in line. In a nutshell, I guess I'm still trying to learn what problem(s) I have and then try to figure out how to address them in THIS particular room.


Scott

What kind of eq are you using? Have you experimented with plugging the port (if any) on your speakers? Perhaps 40hz is the tuning freq. of your speakers and if you plug the port this effect might be lessened?
post #8 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by ssteel01 View Post

Room is a very undesirable 12x13x8 common use TV room (i.e., subject to WAF). That plot was made using the main speakers only (Revel F32). The room has a nasty ~12db peak around 40Hz that I've had to clean up using an EQ. Despite knocking the peak down, I apparently still have a bit of a ringing problem. The only real treatments I have are a set of the GIK 244's straddling the front corners of the room. In the pseudo-treatment pile, there are 2 sofas and an area rug.

I'm primarily concerned with trying to get things into the best possible shape for 2ch music. I figure if I can do that, HT should just kind of fall in line. In a nutshell, I guess I'm still trying to learn what problem(s) I have and then try to figure out how to address them in THIS particular room.


Scott

Wow for only 2 bass traps that really looks pretty nice. Most people, for a room your size I say 4 bass traps at min.
If you have a moment take a look at the following link of a case study done by Ryan Allen (AVS member) http://www.sbrjournal.net/journalsit.../Acoustics.htm it outlines 4 traps vs 8 traps and shows some nice before and after graphs.

As to your room, I would think the more bass traps you add the better the 40 to 80 hz area is going to look (or should I say sound). If you do decide to order say only 2 more, I would take a good hard look at the Tri Trap we have (if your looking at us that is). It really kicks some butt down past 50hz to 40hz very well.

Glenn
post #9 of 28
That is the problem with correcting rooms with eq. You can get the initial sound nearly flat, but it doesn't do anything for ringing. You might play with speaker position if you have not already (might not be much wiggle room in your room, but it can't hurt to experiment with speaker and listening position - by moving speakers you might excite that mode less, by moving the listener you may not hear it). It is going to take a lot of broadband absorbers to remove that 40 hz resonance. You might consider building tuned absorbers for that frequency.
post #10 of 28
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonomega View Post

What kind of eq are you using? Have you experimented with plugging the port (if any) on your speakers? Perhaps 40hz is the tuning freq. of your speakers and if you plug the port this effect might be lessened?

The EQ is just the notch filter in my processor. I'm pretty sure the 40Hz spike is the room. It's there whether I test main speakers only, sub only, or main + sub. Plus, if I understood the little room mode calculatino app over on Real Traps, 40Hz is a predicted room mode for a room with these dimensions.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dknightd View Post

That is the problem with correcting rooms with eq. You can get the initial sound nearly flat, but it doesn't do anything for ringing.

Yeah, truthfully, that was kind of a surprise to me...I've been able to get a pretty flat response in the past, but just recently started trying to educate myself on ringing. I was actually kind of surprised when I put the panels in and ran a LF sweep. I flet like the room sounded noticeably better, but it really didn't measure that much different UNTIL I started paying attention to the LF waterfall. The difference between no treatments and even minimal treatments was pretty surprising.


Scott
post #11 of 28
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by myfipie View Post

As to your room, I would think the more bass traps you add the better the 40 to 80 hz area is going to look (or should I say sound). If you do decide to order say only 2 more, I would take a good hard look at the Tri Trap we have (if your looking at us that is). It really kicks some butt down past 50hz to 40hz very well.

Glenn

Thanks for the link to the case study. That's exactly the kind of stuff I'm looking for. Learning that you have problems is one thing...learning how to deal with them is another thing entirely.

Sure...twist the knife....I spoke with Bryan before I ordered and he rightly suggested getting the tri traps. Lesson learned...next time listen to the experts. It's still a real balancing act trying to create a good listening environment in a family room that my wife already thinks "looks like Tweeter", but I'm hoping I can sneak in a few more.

Thanks again to everyone for all the help.


Scott
post #12 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by ssteel01 View Post

Thanks for the link to the case study. That's exactly the kind of stuff I'm looking for. Learning that you have problems is one thing...learning how to deal with them is another thing entirely.

Sure...twist the knife....I spoke with Bryan before I ordered and he rightly suggested getting the tri traps. Lesson learned...next time listen to the experts. It's still a real balancing act trying to create a good listening environment in a family room that my wife already thinks "looks like Tweeter", but I'm hoping I can sneak in a few more.

Thanks again to everyone for all the help.


Scott

Unless I misinterpreted the info on Gik's site, the 244 absorbs more effectively than the tri-trap. 16 sabins at 80hz, vs an extrapolated 11-12 Sabins for tri-trap??

I guess this would be more a question towards Glenn, perhaps he can shed some late on per-unit sabin measurements and interpretation of...?
post #13 of 28
The obvious solution is more treatments, especially ones that work in your trouble range (without killing upper frequencies too much - the ideal seems to be have all frequencies fall off equally in time, or at least smoothly).

You might also try not squashing the 43hz peak quite so much with eq. Sometimes it sounds more natural to have a peak in the long time response be present in the initial response as well. Anyway, it is something to try. Another thing to consider is door openings, if you happen to have a door near a corner the response might change if the door is open or closed (leaving it open might be to your advantage).

The next step would be something that also works in the time domain. Tact is one. There are others. This is an evolving field. . . But room treatment will likely always be the best thing to do first IMO.
post #14 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry Montlick View Post

Remember that decay times are measured as RT60 values, Ethan. This is the time for sound to decay by 60 dB, not 30 dB.

Of course I know that - which is why I was careful to qualify it by saying 30.

--Ethan
post #15 of 28
I'd like to state explicitly what's been said implicitly: you can't do anything about the decay time using EQ. This is why EQ isn't all that useful. If the room has a mode at 41 Hz, then any sound at 41 Hz will excite that mode, and ring with whatever dB60 time of the room. Changing the EQ doesn't change the fall-off time at all, only the tonal balance.

If your living room "looks like Tweeter," can you buy nice-looking sound absorbers that hide whatever the unwanted stuff is? Kill two birds with one stone :-) Bass traps don't HAVE to live in the corners, it's just easier to do it there.

If you want really nice looking traps, try the SonoSuede from Auralex. Many hundreds per panel, though.
post #16 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by jwatte View Post

I'd like to state explicitly what's been said implicitly: you can't do anything about the decay time using EQ. This is why EQ isn't all that useful. If the room has a mode at 41 Hz, then any sound at 41 Hz will excite that mode, and ring with whatever dB60 time of the room. Changing the EQ doesn't change the fall-off time at all, only the tonal balance.

Not quite true. If the room mode is isolated from others, it is a simple 2nd order minimum phase resonance. This can be cancelled, both in frequency and time (decay) with a parametric equalizer if you match the frequency, bandwidth, and gain accurately. Since this forum's name begins with "Audio theory," at least some readers should know about such signal processing technicalities.

What you say is true for an overlap of modes, where 3 dimensionality comes into play, and the room is no longer strictly minimum phase. The modes have delays with respect to each other, and this creates a non-minimum phase condition. Increasing in frequency, as one approaches the thorougly overlapping modes of the reverberant sound field, you are pretty much helpless in effecting the decay time via EQ.

Matching the 3 parameters of an isolated room mode isn't easy. But trial and error will eventually pay off. I succeeded in improving the decay for exactly one room mode in the experiment with Ethan, as John Mulcahy's post-mortem analysis showed.

Regards,
Terry
post #17 of 28
Quote:


if you match the frequency, bandwidth, and gain accurately

Yes, I give you that. And my hat off to you for managing to actually do that in real life in one instance! It's not something I'd even try -- along with climbing really tall mountains, running a Marathon, etc. It CAN be done...
post #18 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by jwatte View Post

It CAN be done...

Have you looked into the room correction systems from Meridian and Lexicon? Both work the way Terry described, building filters to reduce long decay times rather than attempting to flatten out the frequency response.

Neither system corrects above 250Hz, because wavelengths become too small and room modes can't be isolated properly. For the rest of the frequency range, both companies recommend passive treatments.

Good explanation in this review:

http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volum...4-12-2004.html

Sanjay
post #19 of 28
The Tri Trap shines below 80Hz in comparison to the 244.

In general, you'll need more square footage for broadband absorbtion.

In a room that size, while the decay times are not bad, they're not where they should be. You still have some issues below 80hz that are very long in decay time that need to be addressed. Have you also put up anything for reflection control? Front wall absorbtion?

Bryan
post #20 of 28
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jwatte View Post

I'd like to state explicitly what's been said implicitly: you can't do anything about the decay time using EQ. This is why EQ isn't all that useful. If the room has a mode at 41 Hz, then any sound at 41 Hz will excite that mode, and ring with whatever dB60 time of the room. Changing the EQ doesn't change the fall-off time at all, only the tonal balance.

Duly noted. EQ in my case is definitely a compromise. It's not ideal, but it lets me knock down the peak probably more effectively than the minimal trapping that I'm using. As I've started messing with trap placement and listening/measuring with and without, I'm really noticing the impact on the low end. I wouldn't have described the low end was bloated or sloppy before, but it is noticable tighter with the traps ideally placed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jwatte View Post

If your living room "looks like Tweeter," can you buy nice-looking sound absorbers that hide whatever the unwanted stuff is? Kill two birds with one stone :-) Bass traps don't HAVE to live in the corners, it's just easier to do it there.

I don't actually know what "looks like Tweeter" really means, but we've been married long enough that I know when not to push an issue. The "unwanted" stuff definitely includes the bass traps and to a lesser degree...probably everything else audio related in the room. Short of Restoration Hardware putting out a line of acoustic panels, it's going to be a tough sell no matter where I get the panels. But such is the nature of compromise...


Scott
post #21 of 28
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bpape View Post

Have you also put up anything for reflection control? Front wall absorbtion?

Bryan

Nope. That's next on the list. One thing I've noticed in moving the panels all over the room is that I'd really benefit from having something placed on the back wall. Also, I know that 1st reflection on one side is going to hit right in the middle of a set of windows, so....not quite sure how to handle that one yet.


Scott
post #22 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by jwatte View Post

Yes, I give you that. And my hat off to you for managing to actually do that in real life in one instance! It's not something I'd even try -- along with climbing really tall mountains, running a Marathon, etc. It CAN be done...



I realize now that I may be thoroughly behind the times in trying to do this correction manually, using frequency response flatness. I would try JohnPM's very excellent Room EQ Wizard for finding parametric filter settings. I invariably use it to collect impulse responses for further analysis, for which it does a superior job.

A minimum phase system has the wonderful property that any correction (valid inverse filter) applied in the frequency domain will also automatically correct the time domain -- and vice-versa. Parametric equalizers are composed of second order filter sections which are necessarily minimum phase.

After studying some of the literature on minimum vs. non-minimum phase responses of rooms, I have learned a lot. For one thing, there is a non-minimum phase portion of a room response, which has been found to be due to the introduction of zeros in the room transfer function. For non-geeks, zeros create resonant dips, whereas poles create resonant peaks.

So any attempt to smooth out resonant dips with a parametric equalizer will not address the non-minimum phase room component, and is probably destined to failure for time domain correction. Of course, any boost in a parametric equalizer is not a good idea, but now I better understand some of the mathematical complications. You must ignore the dips even when finding the inverse filter for the peaks, because any such atttempt can lead you down the unsuccessfu non-minimum phase correction path.

I have since done a bit of my own research using a signal processing transformation called the "complex cepstrum," which has the amazing ability to tease out minimum phase from non-minimum phase signal components. I was able to confirm earlier published research about non-minimum phase room conditions.

Sorry about the technicality of this discussion, but it may provide some useful insights for those who understand it.

Regards,
Terry
post #23 of 28
Terry, that sounds like fun :-)

Quote:


Short of Restoration Hardware putting out a line of acoustic panels

Do I feel a business idea coming on? Note that myfipie (Glenn from GIK Acoustics) is selling panels with Guilford of Maine cloth on them. And I really think you should at least look at the SonoSuede panels. Auralex also has a diffuser made of wood, which would go well in any home interior. $600 per pair.
post #24 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by jwatte View Post

Terry, that sounds like fun :-)



Do I feel a business idea coming on? Note that myfipie (Glenn from GIK Acoustics) is selling panels with Guilford of Maine cloth on them. And I really think you should at least look at the SonoSuede panels. Auralex also has a diffuser made of wood, which would go well in any home interior. $600 per pair.



You ain't seen nothing yet!!!!!!



Glenn
post #25 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by ssteel01 View Post

Also, I know that 1st reflection on one side is going to hit right in the middle of a set of windows, so....not quite sure how to handle that one yet.Scott

Open the windows.
post #26 of 28
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jwatte View Post

Do I feel a business idea coming on? Note that myfipie (Glenn from GIK Acoustics) is selling panels with Guilford of Maine cloth on them. And I really think you should at least look at the SonoSuede panels. Auralex also has a diffuser made of wood, which would go well in any home interior. $600 per pair.

I imagine the Pottery Barn Audio catalog would be a hit in many family/HT rooms...

I hadn't seen the SonoSuedes before, so thanks for the heads up on that one. They actually look pretty good. My wife is not really into knick-knacks, but that wood array from Auralex is just begging to be filled with candles and various other junk...

Quote:
Originally Posted by myfipie View Post

You ain't seen nothing yet!!!!!!

C'mon now...don't leave a guy hanging...


Scott
post #27 of 28
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kal Rubinson View Post

Open the windows.

Oh man....that made my day. Nicely played sir. If there's a more cost effective solution with higher WAF than that, I've not seen it. Winters will be challenging though...

Better claim the rights to that tweak before Machina Dynamica snaps it up.


Scott
post #28 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by ssteel01 View Post

Oh man....that made my day. Nicely played sir. If there's a more cost effective solution with higher WAF than that, I've not seen it. Winters will be challenging though...

Well, the bass goes through even when the windows are closed so they are reflecting only HF. That makes it somewhat worse than a regular wall.

Quote:


Better claim the rights to that tweak before Machina Dynamica snaps it up.

They can market it with more imagination.
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