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You have a Sony that won't power on and the standby light blinks... Help and suggesti

post #1 of 1759
Thread Starter 
I saw some others with the problem..set comes on for a sec. then goes into a protection mode...the light on mine blinks 3 times...

When it first happened I took the back off and (WOW, lol) very dirty, cleaned it out thinking that was the problem...And when I plugged it back in and turned it on it came right on? But, next day same problem. This time I just unplugged it for a few minutes and it came on (keep in mind though, the first time this happened I had tried that, unplugging it..with NO success then).

I guess I am asking if anyone else found out something, like what is the problem???

Thank You for any info.
PS: I have had this TV for about 5 years now and love it. I would hate for this to be a unfixable or cost more then its worth to fix.




I decided to have the name of the thread changed so people can post and read about these kinds of problems with these TVs
I just think we needed a thread for this, as I have read here and other forums of these problems, but they are spread all over the place....
Please feel free to post here with your problem, fix, or answer to another users problem But please, DO NOT POST HERE your complaint, preference of brand or model, or anything other then what relates to the thread title!!! Thank You

As an added point I like to make.............
Please if anyone has any info on any problem fixes from the standby light blinks (2,3,4,5, etc.. blinks), feel free to add it in this tread.......................

Thank You, have a good day and good luck with your Sony
post #2 of 1759
Thread Starter 
Ok...reading some more and it seems to be a IC problem?
post #3 of 1759
3 flashes indicates a failure or caused by "Low +B Overvoltage (OVP) circuit." "IC6505 is faulty. (D Board)" is the probable cause. You can also bring up a self-diagnosis screen to display recent faults. Press display, channel 5, sound volume -, power on. 0 indicates no fault, 1 indicates fault. Press power off on the remote or tv to exit the screen and turn off the tv.
post #4 of 1759
It's certainly a TV worth fixing (I still love my 40" XBR800!). But it's tough to say how much $$$$ you're looking at.
post #5 of 1759
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the input
I will try that when I am not worried about watching TV...lol

litzdog911...question for you...Is that a 16:9 or 4:3 format? I have always woundered what was the biggest they made of those type?

whitewhiskers...As for parts. Is there somewhere I can get them or are they only available to service techs?? Just curious
post #6 of 1759
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Goetz View Post

Thanks for the input
I will try that when I am not worried about watching TV...lol

litzdog911...question for you...Is that a 16:9 or 4:3 format? I have always woundered what was the biggest they made of those type?

whitewhiskers...As for parts. Is there somewhere I can get them or are they only available to service techs?? Just curious

Sony.com They sell to the public.
post #7 of 1759
Thread Starter 
Thank You
I will try...
post #8 of 1759
Thread Starter 
ok. I tried to get the D-board from sony parts....and, Ofcourse not available. Now I am trying them for the specific ICs. I do wounder if they will have those??
Since I feel they won't.....Does anyone know where else I could maybe find them??
Thanks again for everyones help
post #9 of 1759
Do you have the service manual for your model TV? I have the service manual for the 970 and can't be sure the part numbers for the D-Board and possible bad IC are the same for the 800. Also be aware that swapping out the D-Board is a complicated procedure. You'll have to mess with the CRT high voltage lead. And then there's the whole issue of restoring all the config data.
post #10 of 1759
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteWhiskers View Post

Do you have the service manual for your model TV? I have the service manual for the 970 and can't be sure the part numbers for the D-Board and possible bad IC are the same for the 800. Also be aware that swapping out the D-Board is a complicated procedure. You'll have to mess with the CRT high voltage lead. And then there's the whole issue of restoring all the config data.

OK! Very true and didn't really consider all that...thank you
But my problem still needs to be the "problem ICs" (the ones that have the high failure rate). So back to my question, the MCZ3001D ICs, where can I get them?
post #11 of 1759
Thread Starter 
Side Note: I don't have a problem with doing this myself
Except for the config. stuff lol
post #12 of 1759
Thread Starter 
OK! sony parts said they have the MCZ3001D(B), they gave the number with the "B" on the end (hoping it is a replacement that doesn't fail as much or at all). As I get it and install, I will keep everyone up to date

Thanks again

PS: cost $22.31 ea. plus tax and shipping.......OFCOURSE LOL
post #13 of 1759
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Goetz View Post

OK! sony parts said they have the MCZ3001D(B), they gave the number with the "B" on the end (hoping it is a replacement that doesn't fail as much or at all). As I get it and install, I will keep everyone up to date

How did you determine that the part you are ordering, IC6501, is the defective part on the D board? As I wrote earlier and it shows up on the 510 and 970 series service manuals, 3 flashes of the standby light indicates failure of IC6505, which is part# SE-140N. The part you are ordering is IC6501.
post #14 of 1759
Thread Starter 
Sorry WhiteWhiskers
Yes I had said that and I seem to have been wrong. After watching several times it was flashing 7 times. In which case I read else where that the problem part is either IC6501 or IC8002, I don't know which one so I am going to replace both. I am sorry for my confusion there.
Actually I have been sitting here thinking..........
Does anyone know why these ICs keep failing and since they do, is there someway to bypass the faults (well, the ghost faults, since it doesn't seem to be anything actually wrong with the TV, just these ICs that go bad for no apparent reason)???????????
post #15 of 1759
I did a google search for my problem and it found this thread.
Same thing happening with my KV-34XBR800 34". Its about 4 years old. Of course I didn't get the extended warranty because its a Sony, right? My old Trinitron lasted 20 years with no problems.
Anyway 7 flashes on the Standby LED. Sometimes I can get it to come on which sounds like maybe a bad solder joint somewhere.
If I knew exactly which part is bad, I'd just order it and replace it myself. Still trying to search for more info.
post #16 of 1759
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by redwald View Post

Anyway 7 flashes on the Standby LED. Sometimes I can get it to come on which sounds like maybe a bad solder joint somewhere.
If I knew exactly which part is bad, I'd just order it and replace it myself. Still trying to search for more info.

As I found in this forums is: 6 or 7 flashes means that either IC8002 or IC6501 is faulty. You can buy them at sony.com/parts. Although it is true I don't know which 1 is bad, but everyone here says they are the problem. cost $23 ea. there is 2 of them (part# MCZ3001DB).
Again I would love to find out if there is a way to bypass the ghost fault, seems it actually isn't a fault, just that the ICs think there is.
post #17 of 1759
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Goetz View Post

...

litzdog911...question for you...Is that a 16:9 or 4:3 format? I have always woundered what was the biggest they made of those type?

....

The KV40XBR800 is a 4:3 format CRT. It's the biggest they ever made and weighs just over 300lbs. Also produces excellent HDTV (1080i) video in its HiDef 16:9 mode (black bars across top & bottom of CRT).
post #18 of 1759
Thread Starter 
litzdog911- Thank You that is what I thought.....LOL and I thought mine was heavy
I guess 34" is the biggest 16:9 format?
post #19 of 1759
I'm (sort of) glad to find out my XBR CRT isn't the only one with this "fault mode blinking light". My 32 XBR 400, 32" HD CRT just experienced the failure.

I'm not up to swapping out parts so I want to give it away. It weighs 250lbs but would be worth picking up, for some handy person.

I'm in mid-Michigan, Lansing area. Post questions or PM me.

Joe
post #20 of 1759
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Goetz View Post

I guess 34" is the biggest 16:9 format?

RCA made a 38" 16:9 tube HDTV, ProScan PS38000. They also made a model with a built-in DirecTV receiver The thing is a monster. Every so often I'll see somebody giving one away (broken).
post #21 of 1759
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bicyclejoe View Post

I'm (sort of) glad to find out my XBR CRT isn't the only one with this "fault mode blinking light". My 32 XBR 400, 32" HD CRT just experienced the failure.

I'm not up to swapping out parts so I want to give it away. It weighs 250lbs but would be worth picking up, for some handy person.

I'm in mid-Michigan, Lansing area. Post questions or PM me.

Joe

Thats a shame But a free xbr would be nice to have....to far for me to drive, otherwise I would be more then happy to take it off your hands.

Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteWhiskers View Post

RCA made a 38" 16:9 tube HDTV, ProScan PS38000. They also made a model with a built-in DirecTV receiver The thing is a monster. Every so often I'll see somebody giving one away (broken).

I bet it weighs a ton LOL (read on please, as I fixed mine )

Quote:
Originally Posted by redwald View Post

I did a google search for my problem and it found this thread.
Same thing happening with my KV-34XBR800 34". Its about 4 years old. Of course I didn't get the extended warranty because its a Sony, right? My old Trinitron lasted 20 years with no problems.
Anyway 7 flashes on the Standby LED. Sometimes I can get it to come on which sounds like maybe a bad solder joint somewhere.
If I knew exactly which part is bad, I'd just order it and replace it myself. Still trying to search for more info.

I found another forums site that everyone there said it was either IC6501, IC8002 on the D-board, or the MCZ3001D on the A-board (sorry can't remember the IC# off hand). One person said they replaced the 6501 and it fixed it, so of course I tried that one 1st, but it wasn't my fix! So onto the next one, 8002. That was it . I even took the IC from the 6501 slot and put it in the 8002 slot. I bought 2 MCZ3001DB replacements from TSM ($5.75ea.), and got them the next day . Oh! and I installed sockets in case I have to do it again , but it will be a 5 min job next time.
I did this yesterday and so far so good (knock on wood...LOL), it came right on after replacing it and works fine, like before .


As for everyone having this or similar problem....
I wish it wasn't true, but Sony like any big company can't be perfect and since they don't actually make the ICs, they can't predict all problems with a particular component . Take in consideration that most of them work fine for years before they crap out. Not to say everyone can fix them, but with a little research and the right tools (not expensive equipment or tools are needed) and some patients, can do this.
I DO NOT recommend that you just open the TV up and start unsolder things. All I ask that you have to have some experience with this and do your research. It only cost me $26 dollars total and I have a spare chip, thats better then $150+ cost to have a tech do it. BUT, if you are not comfortable do this, THEN DON'T!!!!!!!

I THANK EVERYONE HERE FOR ALL THEIR HELP AND INFO.....
Have a good day and Good luck with your XBRs
post #22 of 1759
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteWhiskers View Post

3 flashes indicates a failure or caused by "Low +B Overvoltage (OVP) circuit." "IC6505 is faulty. (D Board)" is the probable cause. You can also bring up a self-diagnosis screen to display recent faults. Press display, channel 5, sound volume -, power on. 0 indicates no fault, 1 indicates fault. Press power off on the remote or tv to exit the screen and turn off the tv.

I really want to THANK YOU for the INFO. and all your help
Most appreciated
post #23 of 1759
Mark,
I'm about to tackle the same issue of power up with my 34xbr800 that I purchased in 2002. I've ordered replacement MCZ3001 circuits and will attempt the repair when they arrive. I realize this may not be my issue but right now I have a 250 pound dust catcher. I found a similar link but with a different tv (KV-36XBR400) on agoraquest.com. I appreciate your posts and don't be suprised if I pm you if I run into any problems.

This tube by far exceeds, the picture on my 42 inch lcd. The last salesman stated that the 34xbr800 is the best tv that Sony has made. I agree.
post #24 of 1759
We're having the same problem with a sony kv-34xbr800. I got my husband a plasma last year for Christmas (sold my beloved motorcycle). Anyway, we sold our Sony to our friends just a few months ago. Now it's not working. This one hasn't been used much, and suddenly, poof! No power and seven blinks.

They can't afford to pay a couple hundred to fix it - thanks to everyone who posted here. If we can fix it for under $50, it will be a blessing! You guys ROCK!
post #25 of 1759
I have a similar problem at start-up--the sound come on- screen stays black-
Then it shuts off and the led flashes 5 times. I already had a problem where
the screen looked pinkish-red whenever the background was a light color.
That had something to do with the "green drive" Does anyone have any
experience/ideas about/with this problem. Luckily I've got my old Sony from 1989 that still works like a champ.
post #26 of 1759
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slayer714 View Post

I have a similar problem at start-up--the sound come on- screen stays black-
Then it shuts off and the led flashes 5 times. I already had a problem where
the screen looked pinkish-red whenever the background was a light color.
That had something to do with the "green drive" Does anyone have any
experience/ideas about/with this problem. Luckily I've got my old Sony from 1989 that still works like a champ.

Hmmm!!! 5 flashes. Not sure it is the same problem? What I found out the mcz3001d ICs cause 6 or 7 flashes.... IT could still be those ICs, but I would search more for now. I only looked for 6 or 7 flashes, so I can't say it is the say problem, as I have found that 3 flashes are caused by different IC chip and not the mcz3001d (but could be your problem chip? as they seem to be a faulty chip and they now make replacements for them).
And Thank You for your post I am glade to help anyway I can

Good luck and please keep updates as to your findings and/or fixes.
post #27 of 1759
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tucker7993 View Post

We're having the same problem with a sony kv-34xbr800. Now it's not working. This one hasn't been used much, and suddenly, poof! No power and seven blinks.

They can't afford to pay a couple hundred to fix it - thanks to everyone who posted here. If we can fix it for under $50, it will be a blessing! You guys ROCK!

That would be either IC6501 or IC8002, can't say for sure cause I found it to be 8002 was my fix and someone else said it was the 6501? As I wrote earlier it is a MCZ3001D 18 pin chip (replaced with the MCZ3001DB). You can find on e-bay (if you don't mind the wait or trusting them) or at electronic supply parts businesses, like TSM ( http://bmb.goemerchant.com/cart/cart...mber=MCZ3001DB )
Also, I would suggest, since the chip has to be removed, would be to install a 18 pin chip socket (pick that up at radio shack for less then a buck) in case it goes bad down the road.... OH! and I paid a total of 26 bucks for 2 ICs and 2 sockets My time was about 2 hours total >>mostly because I wanted to be very careful not to screw anything else up.. There is a lot of touchy components in these TVs, SO be VERY CAREFUL!!!! I cannot stress this enough.........................................<<

Good luck hope everything goes well?
post #28 of 1759
I would like to second the recommendation made above to install 18 pin sockets. That will reduce the risk of damaging the IC during soldering and it will simplify any future replacements.

I installed sockets when I replaced two of the ICs in my KV-36XBR400. IC6501 turned out to be the problem on my TV.

Also, I posted some soldering tips over at the Agoraquest.com Television Troubleshooting forum under the ID "BobF". Here's a link to that thread:

http://agoraquest.com/viewtopic.php?...page_number=10

These tips are more directed more to those without a lot of soldering experience.

And, as a general observation, the diagnostic blink codes only point you to a potential problem area. Without any board level diagnostics, It's a gamble that replacing any of the ICs will be a fix. Of course, it's a gamble that was worthwhile for many, including myself.

Bob
post #29 of 1759
Well Mark, I wish I had waited another 6 days before I decided to bring my TV to the repair shop because you were right. I asked the repairman to save the parts he replaced and it turned out to be 2 bad MCZ3001D DIPs. He also replaced a couple of capicitors. Cost me $349. Wish I had seen your post before I brought in in.
Next time this happens I'll certainly do it my self or maybe just give it away. I had to bribe the neighbor kid to help me lift it into the entertainment center, next time it breaks I don't know what I'll do.
post #30 of 1759
Thread Starter 
Correct RobertF True that it isn't always going to be those parts...Thank You for the post.

Sorry! redwald If you are confident you can do it, then go for it If you can turn the TV around while in the entertainment center? Then you can just do the repair on it. I have the matching stand for mine, and I didn't have to move the TV off it Just slide the back off and get enough wires loose to slide the whole board(s) out (just be sure to reattach any connections and put it back the way it was before). Some say they got to the solder points from underneath, I just removed the 8 (?I believe it was 8?) screws holding the D-board. I then stood the card on its side to access the pins. Like I said though!!! Be very careful!!! As everything in these TVs (and any high end TV) components are very touchy!!! Just be very cautious!!!
I forgot to mention the 5 connection straps, these weren't to bad. They have sides clips to hold them firm (like connectors in a car, wiring harness connectors....push in or pry away some kind of plastic clips), these you use a small screwdriver (plastic would be best) to slightly pull away and pull up on the side on D-board. These will spring up when loose enough. This was the toughest part of doing it my way and wouldn't suggest it unless you very comfortable with electronics and their components........
Otherwise, try to access these from below...without removing the D-board.
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