You have a Sony that won't power on and the standby light blinks... Help and suggesti - Page 36

Before replacing those other components, I would double check all of your new soldering. You might want to re-flow every new solder joint and check carefully for damaged PCB trace material. If you're not sure, check for continuity with a multi-meter. Also, if you disconnected anything for the repair, disconnect and reconnect everything.

If that all checks out, I would recomend swapping the A-Board MCZ300D IC next. A Sony service technician once told me that the A-Board IC is often missed in failed repair attempts.

Good luck!

Bob

Sorry I was wrong about the other SHINDENGEN MCZ3001D on the AY board. It was not a 18 pin IC.

Thanks for the update. Not all of the Sony CRTs have an MCZ3001D on the A-Board. My KV-36XBR400 had one but I never needed to change that.

I pulled up the wiring schemtic and checked continuity at each pin to it's corresponding componet and found nothing. All check out. The chip on the AY board turned out to be IC903 (CXA8070AP) could this be causing the problem? I am measured the resistance of the FETs and they seem very high in the Mega Ohms?

I am going to order the IC504 (5V Regulator) and another set of SHINDENGEN MCZ3001D just in case I got a bad set.

We had a good repair for awhile on our 34XBR800 with the replacement of the two ICs. Then the picture turned a little fuzzy and off color. I ended up pulling the two ICs and replacing them with sockets and the extra two spare ICs I had, but still in the same condition.

I printed out images of the ICs before any work and looked at the traces with a magnifying glass, but they look OK. Also checked the traces I could see with a ohm meter and those look OK.

Anyone run into this?

blackdeath231:A bad fet is usually shorted (low ohms like 2 or less.) Your FETS might be good , unless one is open.

viduser:The 36XBR450 is different (earlier model). There may be an MCZ3001D IC on the A board as well. Hopefully, ABT will be correct in their diagnosis.

KV-34xbr800...I replaced the MCZ's about 2 years ago using sockets and had a great repair until about 3 months ago. Prior to it dying the 2nd time, I too saw a little discoloration on the lower left corner of the screen. I tried ordering and replacing the MCZ's with new ones--Didn't fix it. Only thing I know to do is to try ordering a few more MCZ's to rule out a bad set. It is still the same old 6-blink deal and I suspect it can't be too difficult to fix. I just don't know how to do it. I refuse to throw this set away. I will either fix it myself or pay someone to come out and fix it. It cost me $2500 when it was brand new and even a $400 repair bill would be worth it to me. Especially since the repair would give me back the very best TV I've ever owned with the very best picture I've ever seen. Make that TWO pictures, cuz I can watch stuff on the left and the right! Wikkid. Any ideas from anyone on what we should do?! Thanks--You guys are great!

I posted last week that I was trying to repair my Sony.

Success- what a thrill to keep this beast out of the landfill for now.

I don't have much to add except for encouragement for future people reading this thread. I had no soldering experience prior to this. I read through the thread multiple times before starting. My technique:

1. Placed TV on face, took off face
2. I was going to try and disconnect the board, but the # of connections and complications in doing so scared me.
3. Similarly, I was predisposed to not want to cut away the bottom bracket to get to the ICs, but when I saw how easy that would be, I changed my mind. In fact, the longest part of the project was the last minute running to the hardware store to buy a dremel.
4. Cutting was very easy - no risk of damage IMO - but I did need to cut a T-shaped section instead of the bar shown in the pictures in this thread.
5. Prior to cutting I removed the hard plastic base of the TV. Maybe that was obvious to everyone else but I did not see any mention of it. It made it so that I didn't need to slide or otherwise touch the D-board throughout the whole operation.
6. My shopping list at radio shack: 15/30 w soldering iron, 60/40 .032 solder, desoldering braid, desoldering vacuum, IC chip puller, practice printed circuit board, 3 practice chips.
7. I replaced both ICs as I didn't want to risk having the other fail too.
8. I confess I did have a friend come over to help - he had little soldering experience but more computer / tech experience. He ended up doing the desoldering. I had practiced with the braid but noticed I had burnt the printed circuit board in a few places (that braid gets hot). He prefered the vacuum technique and after a bit of practice had it down so well I let him do it all!
9. Reassembed and started up first try.

Oh, what a feeling!

The last time I posted was last July that my son was returning from school and would probably be able to help me replace the IC's on the D board.

Haven't done it yet. Got sidetracked. My husband who died in 02 was in the oil business. I'd been notified of some new wells in Wyo that were still in his name about 3 yrs ago that needed to be transferred to mine before they start paying me. Because, as I mentioned before, I'm a lazy procrastinator, I let it slide till the big drop in crude prices impacted me hard by last summer (maxed credit cards, late payments, credit score way down and couldn't get refi for money to replace broken ac). The company that drilled the wells wanted me to do an ancillary probate in Wyo, but I'd done many other transfers in some other states without that. I'd been told by someone at that company that the amount in a suspense acct for me was low 5 figures. Talked to someone else at that company and asked why such a fuss over that nice but low amt. He said, no, it's low 6 figures. So obviously I got to work on that right away. Did it myself btw. Searched Wyo statutes for requirements for ancillary probate and did it. Got my money, paid off credit cards and bills and taxes and got the new ac.

So now, back to tv repair 101. I have assembled everything I need: sockets, ic's, soldering station, solder, desoldering wick. I've read and re-read, for about the tenth time, all the pertinent info here and in pin ball repair from RobertF. I have the tv face down with the back off, the bottom thingy off, and the in-the-way piece of plastic cut out. I started this evening to practice on an old computer modem circuit board. This is where I'm having trouble. I'm trying to desolder, but nothing is working as it should. The soldering station is from Radio Shack. I'm following all the directions, have set the temp at the recommended 680 deg., waited till it reached the target temp, wiped the tip on the dampened sponge, tinned it, put the wick over the spot to be desoldered, applied the iron on top of the wick, and the only solder that seems to be going onto the wick is the solder I put on the tip of the iron to tin it. I even tried, just to see what would happen, applying the tip of the iron directly to the spot to be desoldered and kept it there way longer than I'm sure one should, when doing it where it matters, before the solder seemed to even start to liquify a little.

Now I'm all frustrated and cranky. I really want to do this. I'm chomping at the bit. Why isn't it working???????????? Bad words, bad words, bad words.

And now after an hour and a half of reading more here and over at agoraquest, and seeing that the people, like RobertF, who know their way around a d board don't seem to come around here or there very often any more (and I want answers NOW, I tell you, NOW) I kind of feel like chucking the whole thing, or at least hitting that stupid modem board a lot with my hammer as I laugh hysterically.

The desoldering step can be tricky initially. Did you use an aerosol spray electronics cleaner? If not, you may want to give that a shot. Solder flows better on clean surfaces. You could also try one of the specialized desoldering tools like the spring loaded solder sucker that Radio Shack sells.

Do you have a junk circuit board that you can practice on?

Hang in there!

Bob

I'm writing this for the second time. The first time, although I had logged in just about 10 min. ago, when I hit post, it said I had to refresh the page and log in again.

Yes, it's an old modem board. But everything on it seems awfully tiny. Gunna go back to radio shack and get a practice board, chips and sockets and some of that spray cleaner.

I had decided to go with the braid since that seems to be that with which most have had success. Didn't want to end that sentence with a preposition. something which Churchill said is a thing "up with which he will not put."

I'll try it some more, if no sucess, will explore the other options including the sucker. Also, in re-re-reading in the last few hours, I noticed your mention that desoldering with braid can require a higher temp., so I'll try that too.

Thanks,

Kathy R

Hi Kathy,
I used the desoldering iron from RS about $9
Has a bulb syringe attached, just hold the iron to the solder while depressing the bulb when you see the solder melt let go of the bulb and suck it up with the syringe. Just make sure you empty the syringe so the removed solder doesn't drip back on the board. I found this quite easy with the tight space you have to work in. I had limited experience soldering and I desoldered the IC chip quickly without overheating the board. The desoldering iron is well worth the money spent with the time saved and damage prevented. I used sockets and have 2 spare IC in a bag taped to the back of the TV so next time if needed it wil take about 5-10.minutes to fix. Good luck and stay at it!

I love the idea of taping the spare ICs to the TV itself!

we ended up using the spring loaded sucker from radio shack and it worked very well. This was after practicing with the braid which seemed better during trials.

The secret was to really get the plastic point of the vacuum sucker in there while heating the solder. The solder cools quickly and if you remove the gun, then put on the vacuum, then hit spring - it just doesn't work. Has to be simultaneous. I was worried to do that because you end up melting the tip of the vacuum gun a bit - but the do provide an extra in the package, so clearly that's to be expected.

Thanks for the tips on mcz3001 problems...Repaired TV and it works well...

However a few things I have noticed in this thread, I would like to comment on (for the new ones to circuit board/CRT repair)

1. Someone mentioned grounding prongs the "Red Wire" to avoid shock....
CAUTION: It is a MUST to use a clip wire to chassis ground (metal band around picture tube), attached to an insulated screwdriver and slide it under the 2nd Anode connection to the picture tube to discharge it. Keep screwdriver in contact with metal clip until you have removed wire..... Remember, must do the same to picture tube before re-installing wire when finished with repair.... Charge can rebuild on picture tube while disconnected for repair...

2. For those with desoldering problems, it is good practice to take thin wire rosin core solder and apply a small amount to each solder point on circuit board before desoldering, it will help.

3. It is good general practice to use a magnifier to examine solder joints when finished to make sure solder has not bridged between any other connections, but on these Sony tv's there are very tiny connecting traces than can be damaged by removing solder bridges.. Examine the traces before you begin work and know where these traces are.

4. Solder wick willl work well if used correctly... Place wick next to pin to be desoldered and press iron against wick.... After desoldering, take a small (jewelers) screwdriver and press sideways against each chip pin to be sure they are not stuck to side of solder hole... Usually they will fall out after you finish...

BTW: It is late and I am tired...Hope I have not stepped on any toes, or posted redundant info here...

Thanks again for the forum and info posted here....

pw2009

Hi all, noob here, im sorry if ive posted in the wrong section but im in need of some help, my sony gdm-fw900 crt monitor stopped working on me, the picture just went off, no bang no smoke just no picture, when i turn it on there is NO hv start up, the static thing that has to happen, and when i have the pc connected the orange lights blinks repeatedly and thats about it, if i remove one of the wires from i think its the d board that has the flyback on it i get a normal start up with degausse with the normal sounding relay click but no picture, i have some knowledge of looking inside the unit and i have a basic DMM i really dont want to throw this in the bin because its a rare monitor to come by thankyou.

ps, the flyback is making the normal sound as if its working, all 3 cathode heaters are on fine.

So, yesterday I finally got around to attempting the repair, after being thoroughly intimidated by the soldering aspect of things. After practicing and steeling myself to doing it, I got the back off, followed the instructions, and then despite being able to manuever the chassis off, scared myself away from trying to pry apart the d-board from the a-board.

My wife, either sensing or perhaps smelling my fear from across the room, decided to look online, and found a repair guy. I explained to him on the phone the situation, and that I had done research and felt it was the chips, and he agreed to come out and do the service in our home for $100, using our parts, if that indeed fixed it. So I chickened out, and 24 hours later, have a fully functional KV-36HS!

When the guy was here I told him "the Internet guys said it was these chips", and he said, "If so, you'll have saved yourself a few hundred, because I'd have likely just replaced the board. Although I don't know if this will do it if something else is wrong."

So, you Internet guys saved me enough money that it kept this tube from the landfill, for sure.

Thanks!

D.

florida288: The modem board has higher temperature solder called "lead free." The TV does as well, but not as resistant to melting. You may have to experiment with the temperature.

hestiansun:That's a different path to success! Maybe the tech will use the experience in other repairs, less costly approach.

Is it really too hard to take out the D-board from the DA4 CHASSIS? I have the KV32HV600 with service manual and MCZ3001DB's in hand. Seems like it would be much easier to remove the D-board to desolder and resolder.

BTW: What wires should I stay away from? Don't want to fry myself when unplugging wires and the TV would be way to heavy where it is to be able to place on it's face. I have the board vertically faced for service now. Service manual is really no help.

Thanks

Thanks for a great resource all - I just brought my KV-36HS510 back to life. I replaced to 2 ICs on the D board using sockets. I cut the plastic part with metal snips no problems. I disconnected the speaker wires, the 2 connectors from the chassis to the very back of the tube, and a couple of black and white wires on the RHS. After that, I pulled back the tray (after finding the catches) and then rotated the chassis until the bottom of the D board was facing me and the back panel of the TV was on the table. Desoldering was tricky with the braid initially - it wouldn't wick all of the solder, which appeared to have a crinkly skin over the molten metal (oxidation?). I did the trick of adding a little solder to each post and then using the braid and it worked like a charm. There is zero need to shear the pins of the old ICs - when soldering is done correctly, the old IC fairly falls out.
I love having this TV back - I replaced it with a new one in my living room and now I have this beautiful TV in my game room for the 360.

Thanks again to all who lead the way, especially Mark Goetz and RoberF. The hardest part was getting up the courage to try the fix myself (and moving this heavy beast to a worktable).

Another success story here!!! Thanks all, and DILLA for having the same TV as mine (KV32HV600) with a nice little writeup.

Hopefully, these newer IC's (MCZ3001DB) corrected the problem with the original (MCS3001D).

I found it easiest when soldering to disconnect the D-board (just screws) and then lay it on it's side for soldering, didn't have to cut or splice anything. The desolderer with pump also worked best upside down as well.

TV powered up just like new.

Here are pics of installed IC's (2) and sockets (2):

Thanks very much for the people posted to this thread. I think I have fixed my tv, but with an issue I need someone's help or comments. I have no previou experience on soldering at all.

My 40XBR800 TV started blinking 6/7 times during the Winter Olympics. After I found the information posted here, I ordered two ICs with sockets on Ebay. I turned tv face down with 4 plastic stools supporting it at each corner (300 lbs monster). After removing the back cover, IC 8002 was just located on the upper left corner of the Dboard, but IC 6501 was behind a plastic bar of the supporting tray. After left tv unplugged for a few days, I managed to turn on the tv with the self diagnosis screen on. It showed that the tv had VSTOP (4), LOWB (6), and H-STOP (7) faults.

I started fixing IC 8002 first with the Dboard in place, desoldering it with desoldering braid bought from Source (Radio Shock), and replacing the IC with a new one sitting on the socket, which was soldered to place quite easily. I removed most, but not all the solder, as my friend told me it should work even with some old solder left there. I can now turn on the tv without any problem. However, I noticed that the Standby light is blinking randomly each time I turn on the tv. It blinks from 4 times to 11 times without repeating; then tv is on. It seems when the first time the tv is turned on, it usually blinks 11 times; then blinks between 4 to 7 times each time if I turn off and on the tv again.

I then replaced IC6501 as I thought it might be faulty. But I have the same issue, i.e., standby light blinks randomly each time tv is turned on (I thought it was about 3 times before the tv was broken). Anyone has any idea about this. Should I worries about it?

Thanks again for the great information, and nice people. I enjoy reading the thread.

@louiselulu
Congratulations on saving one of the best TVs ever made!

What you are seeing is probably the warm-up blinks. they are slower than the diagnostic blinks were. The slow blinking is just the TVs way of saying "standby, I'm warming up". Sounds like you did just fine.

Should you ever have to replace the IC behind the plastic support bar, that bar can be cut away with a Dremel (slide a piece of plastic notebook divider between it and the D-board for safety to the board) without harming the structure in any way. Pictures are somewhere around here....page 4 probably.

Thanks to this awesome forum, and especially to Mark and Bob! My 27HS420, which was experiencing the 6 and 7 "blinks of death" has been resurrected! The job was relatively painless -- thanks in large part to all the wonderful contributors here. The photos really made a difference. So did the links to the YouTube videos that were posted.

You guys are the BEST!

Blessedon: Thanks very much for your quick reply. So i can relaxand enjoy my tv again.

I was worried because the Sony DA-4 Service Manual, as well as the TSM site, mentioned that some other parts should be replaced with IC 8002 and IC 6501.

I also did not replace the 2 resistors and capacitors mentioned on the tristatemodule site (the trepidation of my first ever successful soldering was enough!), and apparently 95% of the posters here also did not replace them - and were likewise rewarded with a working set.

My deluxe TV unobtanium works, and if the 6/7 blinks should ever return then I shall order and replace those easily obtainable parts, along with the spare [and possibly in the future unobtainium] MCZ3001DB ICs which I have on hand.

I expect this TV to be the last I will ever buy.

I though this tv should last longer. After five years, i had this blinking problem. Without the information from this site, it should be somewhere for recycling as the Sony Parts quoted $700.00 for the Dboard. I have to say thanks once again to the poeple here. I hope my tv last little bit longer after this fixing(I bought it about 6 years ago with extended warranty, which ended last June).

I hope you can help me, I have a Sony kv40xbr800, just yesterday for the first time the tv does not power on, even though it worked just 1 hour previously, the standby red light flashes 7 times. I unplugged it for 10 minutes and plugged it back but still the same, after reading much of the thread on this site especially the detailed instructions Eclipsedave did in post #108 I was about to order and replace the 2 MCZ 3001DB chips and sockets, but I first unplugged the TV and left it unplugged for 24 hours, I just plugged it back in the outlet and the TV works fine and the blinking also stopped.
I would appreciate if anyone can suggest what happened and the reason why the TV is now working. Also should I proceed and still replace the 2 MCZ 3001DB chips

sonykv40xbr800: Yeah, I'd continue on with your repair, because the intervals of required shutoff time will increase in order to get your set to power up again. I guess that's the chips slowly dying...
It's virtually the same thing everywhere.

I fixed my Sony kv34xbr800 around 2 years ago and my set died again. I tried new chips in a qwik socket-enabled change, but no-go this time. Still no answer from this group, so I'll likely buy yet one more set of chips and try those. Past that, I'll have to pay to get it repaired at a pro shop...HAAALP!