You have a Sony that won't power on and the standby light blinks... Help and suggesti - Page 37

Originally Posted by eclipsedave

KV-34xbr800...I replaced the MCZ's about 2 years ago using sockets and had a great repair until about 3 months ago. Prior to it dying the 2nd time, I too saw a little discoloration on the lower left corner of the screen. I tried ordering and replacing the MCZ's with new ones--Didn't fix it. Only thing I know to do is to try ordering a few more MCZ's to rule out a bad set. It is still the same old 6-blink deal and I suspect it can't be too difficult to fix. I just don't know how to do it. I refuse to throw this set away. I will either fix it myself or pay someone to come out and fix it. It cost me $2500 when it was brand new and even a $400 repair bill would be worth it to me. Especially since the repair would give me back the very best TV I've ever owned with the very best picture I've ever seen. Make that TWO pictures, cuz I can watch stuff on the left and the right! Wikkid. Any ideas from anyone on what we should do?! Thanks--You guys are great!

Originally Posted by eclipsedave

I wasn't initially aware of this, but I finally found TSM's info regarding the other parts:

-Replacement of the following parts along with the MCZ3001DB IC's is recommended
-.1 Ohm 1/2W Fusible resistor (2 per board). Order 120293361, $.99ea.
-1200uF 250V Electrolytic capacitor (2 per board). Order 1200UF250V E, $6.99ea.

I'll place an order and get to it. I hope that fixes it then...You'll certainly get an update...

It would make perfect sense to me that it would be a capacitor, cuz it makes the click-click sound when I try to turn it on and I would assume that's the capacitor draining right back out, like you hear under the hood when a car cools down and maybe that cap is meant to pack some energy until it reaches a certain level and then releases with a WONK! and the tube fires up. Hey I'm only guessing here...
I'd like to read all of your opinions on that theory...Thanks all...This is still the best thread ever.

Originally Posted by sonykv40xbr800

I hope you can help me, I have a Sony kv40xbr800, just yesterday for the first time the tv does not power on, even though it worked just 1 hour previously, the standby red light flashes 7 times. I unplugged it for 10 minutes and plugged it back but still the same, after reading much of the thread on this site especially the detailed instructions Eclipsedave did in post #108 I was about to order and replace the 2 MCZ 3001DB chips and sockets, but I first unplugged the TV and left it unplugged for 24 hours, I just plugged it back in the outlet and the TV works fine and the blinking also stopped.
I would appreciate if anyone can suggest what happened and the reason why the TV is now working. Also should I proceed and still replace the 2 MCZ 3001DB chips

Originally Posted by Blessedon

I was wondering; if one of those capacitors or resistors failed, would it take an IC with it??

Originally Posted by eclipsedave

sonykv40xbr800: Yeah, I'd continue on with your repair, because the intervals of required shutoff time will increase in order to get your set to power up again. I guess that's the chips slowly dying...
It's virtually the same thing everywhere.

I fixed my Sony kv34xbr800 around 2 years ago and my set died again. I tried new chips in a qwik socket-enabled change, but no-go this time. Still no answer from this group, so I'll likely buy yet one more set of chips and try those. Past that, I'll have to pay to get it repaired at a pro shop...HAAALP!

Originally Posted by louiselulu

I have the same tv, which had a similar standby light brinking problem for more than one month. At the end, I replaced IC8002 on Dboard. It is working now.

Originally Posted by louiselulu

I bought a lot of two ICs with two matching sockets on Ebay, and eventually I changed both ICs. However, IC8002 was faulty. After first replacing IC8002, my tv can be turned on and off without problem. However, the standby light blinks several times each time I turn on the tv (you can hear the sound from the speakers, but have to wait for the standby light blinks betweeb 3 to 11 times before the tv is on. It seems some part(s) need to be warmed up before the picture comes out). The change of IC6501 later did not make any improvement (i would replace both if I should do it again, as it was not too hard to repalce them, but the tv was too heavy to move around. I had no previous soldering experience at all). I realised later that you actually don't have to move the tv. Just remove the screws from back cover, and tilt the tv forward little bit, then you can slide the back cover out.

In short, I changed both IC8002 and IC6501 even though only IC8002 was faulty for my tv. It works fine right now for several days, but I am paranoid about blinking light since.

Originally Posted by sonykv40xbr800

I have a general questions about these ic, can anyone explain the difference between the MCZ3001DB IC and IC8002 and IC6501, what I am confused is when you replace the MCZ3001DB IC, is that the same as changing IC8002 , IC6501 or IC6502?

Originally Posted by eclipsedave

The same MCZ3001DB chip will work in both IC6501 and IC8002 "locations".

The MCZ3001DB chip is the latest version of the chip, which replaced the faulty MCZ3001D chips.

Originally Posted by Blessedon

Right. Or, put another way;
The chip originally supplied to Sony by Shendigen was the MCZ3001D. Which was replaced by the improved MCZ3001DB (probably because Sony pitched a fit about the premature failures)

Originally Posted by Blessedon

Right. Or, put another way;
The chip originally supplied to Sony by Shendigen was the MCZ3001D. Which was replaced by the improved MCZ3001DB (probably because Sony pitched a fit about the premature failures)
The designation IC6501 & 8002 simply refer to Sony's name on the schematic for where on the circuit board that the MCZ3001D (B) chips are located.

Originally Posted by eclipsedave

The same MCZ3001DB chip will work in both IC6501 and IC8002 "locations".

The MCZ3001DB chip is the latest version of the chip, which replaced the faulty MCZ3001D chips.

Originally Posted by jdre

louiselulu:The blinking standby after you power on is normal, both of my Sonys do it, until it's ready to show picture. I often get 11 blinks.

Originally Posted by louiselulu

Thanks very much for the people posted to this thread. I think I have fixed my tv, but with an issue I need someone's help or comments. I have no previou experience on soldering at all.

My 40XBR800 TV started blinking 6/7 times during the Winter Olympics. After I found the information posted here, I ordered two ICs with sockets on Ebay. I turned tv face down with 4 plastic stools supporting it at each corner (300 lbs monster). After removing the back cover, IC 8002 was just located on the upper left corner of the Dboard, but IC 6501 was behind a plastic bar of the supporting tray. After left tv unplugged for a few days, I managed to turn on the tv with the self diagnosis screen on. It showed that the tv had VSTOP (4), LOWB (6), and H-STOP (7) faults.

I started fixing IC 8002 first with the Dboard in place, desoldering it with desoldering braid bought from Source (Radio Shock), and replacing the IC with a new one sitting on the socket, which was soldered to place quite easily. I removed most, but not all the solder, as my friend told me it should work even with some old solder left there. I can now turn on the tv without any problem. However, I noticed that the Standby light is blinking randomly each time I turn on the tv. It blinks from 4 times to 11 times without repeating; then tv is on. It seems when the first time the tv is turned on, it usually blinks 11 times; then blinks between 4 to 7 times each time if I turn off and on the tv again.

I then replaced IC6501 as I thought it might be faulty. But I have the same issue, i.e., standby light blinks randomly each time tv is turned on (I thought it was about 3 times before the tv was broken). Anyone has any idea about this. Should I worries about it?

Thanks again for the great information, and nice people. I enjoy reading the thread.

Originally Posted by sonykv40xbr800

I wanted to know if it was okay to pull the TV by the 2 legs.

Do I need to ground myself so as to prevent getting electrocuted and what is recommended as a good ground.

Originally Posted by sonykv40xbr800

Hi louiselulu or anyone else I am about to remove the back of my Sony 40XBR800, can you please verify what screws I need to remove, so far I have remove 15 screws from both sides, just wondering if there were any others, also I need to pull the TV from against the wall and I wanted to know if it was okay to pull the TV by the 2 legs. Do I need to ground myself so as to prevent getting electrocuted and what is recommended as a good ground. The TV is quite heavy so I was wondering what was the best way to get to the D board where the chip is located, some has suggested turning the TV over on its face but this TV is over 200lbs, thanks

Originally Posted by blue_z

If you mean the legs of the stand, then probably not, especially if the stand is on carpet.



You are confused. If you are grounded and then touch something charged then you receive an electrical shock. You do not want to be the perfect path to ground while working on equipment. The second rule is to not use two hands. If one hand is grounded and then the other hand touches a high-voltage source, the electrical path is across your chest, where your heart is.

If you (your body) has built up an electrical charge, then you need to discharge (get rid of) that static electricity by touching something grounded. Electronic components are susceptible to damage from static discharges. So you have to ground yourself before you touch/handle electronics, and then un-ground yourself while working on the chassis.

Learn these basic rules of electricity before any repair attempts. Screw up, and you can seriously hurt yourself.

Regards

Originally Posted by lcaillo

Ground the work, not yourself. Good quality soldering equipment has a grounded tip to discharge static. There are two issues with grounding for this kind of work. One is dischaging static electricity that might damage a component, the other is safety. With respect to static, one may use a ground strap and thus ground one's body, but this is NOT advised when there is a potiential source of current that can be a safety issue. Working on a set in the field that may have charged components or may have live circuits connected is why one would not want they body to be a ground path.

Be safe, make sure that the set is disconnected from power and the charged components are discharged before servicing. Use properly grounded equipement to prevent static discharge.

Originally Posted by sonykv40xbr800

Hi louiselulu or anyone else I am about to remove the back of my Sony 40XBR800, can you please verify what screws I need to remove, so far I have remove 15 screws from both sides, just wondering if there were any others, also I need to pull the TV from against the wall and I wanted to know if it was okay to pull the TV by the 2 legs. Do I need to ground myself so as to prevent getting electrocuted and what is recommended as a good ground. The TV is quite heavy so I was wondering what was the best way to get to the D board where the chip is located, some has suggested turning the TV over on its face but this TV is over 200lbs, thanks

Originally Posted by louiselulu

I didn't count the number of the srews I removed, but I remembered that I removed all the srews with an arrow sign beside the srews all along the four sides of the tv. There are at least two that tighten the rear cover to the outlet panel at back. All the srews I removed are the same type. You can check page 11 of the Service Manual as a reference (The picture is for a different tv model).

It seems to me that the tv is easy to be moved with rear cover on (300 lb according to the user manual). My tv sits on an original matching stand. I turned it face down with the help of my two friends, and put it onto four plastic stepstools on each corner of the tv. This way, you can check if the tv is on without turn it back up after you replace the ICs. However, the best way I think is to just move you tv forward so that you have enough room to work at the back. The chasis assembly can be pulled out and turned up to the service position (see the instruction on page 11 of the Service Manual). Be sure all the wires are loosened (not unplugged) so you don't break or disconnect any of them accidently when you pull the chasis out.

The two ICs are located at the left up corner. Take a lot of pictures from different angles around the chasis before you work on it so that you can compare them if there is anything wrong. Good luck for your repair.

BTY, I didn't have any previous experience on soldering. So I practiced a little bit on a old telephone board before I worked on the D board. It really helped.