You have a Sony that won't power on and the standby light blinks... Help and suggesti - Page 41

I bought a new desolder that have a pump from radioshack
i plan to used it on friday maybe it will remove the remaining solder
that wick mess me up
maybe if i put the new chip in it. it might still work i hope
if it doesnt time for a new tv
sony to expensive for me to get a new tv but i love that p&p on sony

i replace the chip now i'm getting the 3 blink code
when i turn on the tv
there's a couple of pics
any help would be appreciate

3 blinks can mean a short , sometimes from soldering incorrectly. I had 3 blinks one time and took it all apart, cleaned it up and re-soldered and it worked. It only takes a small speck in the wrong place to get 3 blinks. Read this entire thread from the start and you will see other pics of the repair that you can compare to yours, it might show where you have a short or other issues. also try buying a practice board at radio shack to get your soldering skills a little better, use your old chips and solder and remove them till you get the hang of it. Some here have done it on the first try while others like me have made some mistakes. I've done 4 of these sets and only 2 worked the first time. I saw your pics and even blurry I can see the soldering could be the issue, you may have damaged the board, if so even that might be fixable. As a last resort you can order a new board from sony for about $200 or you can look on craigslist for another set. I found another 40xbr800 for $200 with the stand and remote that was in mint condition, it still had the original sony batteries On my first 40xbr800 I bought for a $100, it had 6 blinks to start , after the first repair it would cut off in the vivid setting or a white scene, I found out it was a trace or speck from when I removed the chips using a solder sucker. That repair caused one of the chips to fail so I did another repair and then I got 3 blinks and was ready to give up. I did a third repair but I used the wick and a small screwdriver to remove all specks and traces of solder. The third repair worked and it works perfect. When you use the wick, put a little solder on the end then put it next to a pin and slide your soldering iron up the wick , doing that will remove all the solder and not spread it around. You can find a bunch of tips on YouTube that will really help. If you like these sets as much as me keep looking for others, there about 7-8 years old now so people will sell them cheap , I look all the time to find ones for parts.

Definitely a TV worth keeping!
Wise words from rtmach; to try a re-solder or try to pick up a refurb board.
We might be able to help more with better photos. Any way you can improve with the camera you have, or borrow one to take good macros?

some more tips, when your wick has about 1/4 inch or so of solder on it, cut it off and repeat. It's also easier on these chips to cut the wick at an angle to get down into the holes. A bright light makes it easier to get a good pic, and a magnifying glass will show any small traces and specks. I think somewhere in this thread is some pics of the bottom of the board before a repair, you can compare to make sure you have all the solder in the right places.

i want to thank each one of you for giving me the info and confidence needed to turn my 34XBR910 into a working TV again. i have very little, to no experience soldering on boards, so i hope this will encourage more to take on the task themselves.

like so many of the previous posters i had the 6-7 blinking code. after reading this thread i ordered a few mcz3001db IC chips, and got ready. it was pretty much as it was described; remove the back panel, unclip the board, unscrew the board, disconnect all the wires EXCEPT THE BIG RED ONE, desolder the ships, solder the new chips, put it all back together.

here are the before and after pics. i had started to desolder before i remembered to take pics.
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there my pic i'm getting 3 blink

Well, I just got my Chips today in the mail (Finally, has some Asian/Chinese Writing all over it)

anyway, Scorpion, by looking at the pics, you have SEVERAL pin joints that look like they are touching each other, causing shorts.

can you specify which one
thanks

Looks like IC8002 maybe your problem.

On IC8002, Pins 1-3 All Look too close, Pins 4 and 5 look close, and Pins 6,7,8 and 9 are close, 10-12 look close, 14-16 look ok,

ALso it looks like the leads to the component between the sets of leads is severed, look at the Pics in the Post above yours.

thanks for the help will wprk on it now

Actually, all of the pins look like there is too much solder on them.
The joint should look like a little volcano, with concave sides, e.g. Mt. Fuji.
The solder joint should not look like an upside-down bowl or hemisphere; that is a bad solder joint and would not pass a QA inspection.

Regards

how do i fix the lead

i did fix all of it all look like volcano
nowow

yeah, forgot to mention some of them look like cold solder joints.

I got my chips finally from China, so now i just gotta set aside time to do everything.

i did all over and now they look like volcano still getting
3 blink like will post pic of the new solder i did in a few

what would happen if you connect all 18 pin

This might work, click on it to open. the area in red looks like some traces.

You can't, there's no place to solder those extra pins too.

can you take a look at this also rtmach
i didnt work on the one you rectangle the problem yet probably tomorrow

i did this soldering clean up earlier today

Posters,
First of all could we please size our pics so they don't run off the page. 800x600

Pin 2 and 3, and 4 and 5 look like they are touching....

hwo do you remove the trace ?
on which chip

Sorry. On 8002

I use a small dull flat screwdriver and lightly scrape at the traces and specks. you can't use a soldering iron or you will do even more damage. it looks like you have some damage around the pin holes on the board but I don't know if that will effect it, maybe another member would know for sure. compare your board to the pics from thich's before and after, and try to remove as much solder and traces as you can before trying again. when I had a bad repair that's what I did but I didn't have all the scrapes and scratches like yours so it might not matter at this point.

I have the same problem like some of you, 7 blinks and no picture.
I have one question for you: what is a differance between D-BOARD, MCZ3001DB chip and IC6501 or IC8002. Iwould like to know what is going on with my old TV before I will talk to a technician. If someone know a propable cost of this repair I will greatly appreciated. I live in Port Saint Lucie, FL. Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
P.S. Sorry if I put it incorrectly.

The 2 chips are the same. If you would please read from the beginning of this thread to, oh....about page 14, all of your questions, including the ones you will be asking, will be answered. Should take about an hour.

Ok I did the Repair, Took about 1.5 hours. To a Sony KV-30HS 420,

Removed the 20 something screws to the back of the TV, slid the Back cover off,

identified the D-Board, Removed the 8 Screws mounting it to the frame, popped the Black bridges going from the D-Board to the other (Top Of Pic 1), and disconnected all the power Leads.

rotated he board over, took solder iron and heated up each lead and used solder sucker to suck off heated solder made sure pin was loose before moving to the next. Then removed the IC chip and moved to the 2nd one and repeated, inserted IC 18 pin Socket and soldered all the pins that required solder and skipped the ones that werent, being careful not to use too much solder, lil bits at a time, making sure each was a nice shiney joint. Inserted Chips into sockets, put the board back into the Frame, clipped into place, re-clamped the bridges, reconnected power cables, and put the back cover on. PLugged in and powered up, cycled power a few times to make sure it was working, image is actually clearer than it was before, didnt really have free hand to take Pix.