I cautiously report that I have one more success story to add. I hate to declare victory for fear that karma will bite me in the rear... but, for the moment, my Sony is back in action. A HUGE THANK YOU to all of you who posted here with tips, tricks, and encouragement. I would not have done this if not for you.
I have close to zero experience soldering and was totally in fear of electrocuting myself while working inside the TV. I did practice soldering/desoldering some 18-pin sockets on a Radio Shack circuit board before starting this job. Working on the actual D-board was much harder due to having to work on the board at an awkward angle/poor position with the board still attached to the TV and due to the proximity of so many other components on the circuit board.
I am shocked, stunned, amazed, dumbfounded... and darn happy that the fix actually worked for me. I almost gave up several times before achieving success. I even went out and looked at new TV's which really just inspired me to work harder on fixing this TV.
TV: Sony KV-36XBR400
Manufactured: October 2000
Symptoms: Turn TV on, hear degaussing "whump" sound, hear some normal "click" sounds, see the front panel LED blink a few times like usual, screen remains blank, hear another "click" as the TV turns itself back off, front panel LED blinks 7 times and repeats. Attempt to turn TV on again and same thing happens only this time 4 blinks. Attempt to turn TV on again, same thing, 7 blinks. It pretty consistently alternated between a 4-blink and 7-blink LED error code.
I purchased my MCZ3001DB chips (4 in total, good to have spares) from "corewave" on eBay.
$37.90 for 4 chips and 4 18-pin sockets delivered to my door.
I first replaced the IC8002 chip because I could access that one with the chassis in the "service position". That did not solve the problem.
I then removed the D-board (leaving the flyback transformer wires connected) and replaced the IC6501 chip. That fixed it.
Soldering iron used: Weller WM120 12 watt mini duty "soldering pencil". It has a very fine .4mm conical tip on it. The wattage is probably too low to be ideal but the fine point tip was good.
Solder used: Kester "Electronic Silver Solder", 62% Tin, 36% lead, 2% silver, 44 Flux, Dia. .020/.5mm. It worked great.
Desoldering: I used a Radio Shack 64-2098 "Vacuum Desoldering Tool". In combination with the low-wattage iron, I had zero luck desoldering the chips whole. I finally snipped the old chip's pins at the "shoulders" and pulled the pins one at a time. I then used this tool to suck the remaining solder from the holes.
I highly recommend using some small flush cutters (wire cutters - I bought my Crescent S2SK5 [combo pack of flush cutters and small needle nose pliers] from Home Depot for $7.99) to snip the old chip out and pull the pins one at a time.
My D-Board was a double-sided circuit board and my IC's were positioned differently than many of the pictures of D-boards I've seen on this thread. IC6501 was hard to access due to some heat sinks and IC8002 was hard to access due to some capacitors being in the way and the flyback transformer shield being in the way.
My A-Board also has one of these chips on it which I have not replaced.
I did use sockets.
For some crazy reason I've had the Joe Cocker song, "You Are So Beautiful To Me", in my head all day but the lyrics I'm singing are, "You Are So Beautiful... TV".
Thanks again to whomever first discovered that these chips are the problem and to everyone who has shared their story on this thread.