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You have a Sony that won't power on and the standby light blinks... Help and suggesti - Page 45

post #1321 of 1759
Yes it would break, but sometimes in the cap . The best way to check is with a meter.
post #1322 of 1759
Found out you can't tell a blown fuse just by looking at it. What voltage or amperage should it have if I test with a multimeter?
post #1323 of 1759
just a ohm test to see if the circuit is good.
post #1324 of 1759
Anyone know what type of fuse it is? I'll look when I get home and hopefully there is a readable model number if I need to find a replacement at Radio Shack.
post #1325 of 1759
Quote:
Originally Posted by HDTimeShifter View Post

Anyone know what type of fuse it is?

250V, 6.3A fuse, Sony P/N 1-532-506-51

Part# 153250651 has been discontinued. This is the replacement part: 153232500

US$4.62 from servicesales.sel.sony.com
post #1326 of 1759
I couldn't get any ohm reading on my fuse and it was kind of dark/dirty towards one end, so I assume it is blown.

Radio Shack doesn't carry it so I just ordered a new fuse from Sony. Yeah - no shipping fee (would have been more than the fuse itself).

Thanks blue_z.
post #1327 of 1759
Quote:
Originally Posted by prsa01 View Post
Hi guys,

I pulled the D board and replaced the ICs with sockets. I had pulled the red and blue wires from the FBT to remove the board. The blue wire just pushes back into the FBT fine but the red wire just bends every time I try pushing it in. The red wire goes into a tube so I can't really see well enough to know what type of connection I am pushing into. The stripped portion of the wire goes down into the tube but when I try to put enough force to seat it (like I did with the blue wire) it bends in the tube. I am trying to come up with ways to support the wire in the tube (straws, etc) so it doesn't bend.

Any tips, tricks, tools, whatever would be MUCH appreciated.

Thanks
There is a special tool for that, https://www.servicesplus.sel.sony.co...T99860735.aspx you can call and make sure that is the one, they also have the replacement lead for less than $10 last time I checked.
post #1328 of 1759
Quote:
Originally Posted by prsa01 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by prsa01
Hi guys,

I pulled the D board and replaced the ICs with sockets. I had pulled the red and blue wires from the FBT to remove the board. The blue wire just pushes back into the FBT fine but the red wire just bends every time I try pushing it in. The red wire goes into a tube so I can't really see well enough to know what type of connection I am pushing into. The stripped portion of the wire goes down into the tube but when I try to put enough force to seat it (like I did with the blue wire) it bends in the tube. I am trying to come up with ways to support the wire in the tube (straws, etc) so it doesn't bend.

Any tips, tricks, tools, whatever would be MUCH appreciated.

Thanks
There is a special tool for that, https://www.servicesplus.sel.sony.co...T99860735.aspx you can call and make sure that is the one, they also have the replacement lead for less than $10 last time I checked.

====================

Thanks rtmach

To clarify, this isn't the anode wire. It is 1 of the 2 wires that go to the C board.

Thanks again in advance for any help, tips, etc!!

Ooops, my mistake. If the wire is stranded you could try a bit of solder to make it more rigid. If you can't get it any other way you might consider a stiff piece of wire that will insert into the hole and connect, then solder the wire to that and cover with shrink wrap.
post #1329 of 1759
which correlates with longer XBR/power-supply/CRT-TV life, not in terms of operating hours, but in terms of earliest failure in terms of calendar date?

- leaving the TV on all the time ,
or
- powering it on & off a twice times daily, with just an hour or three of time-off at most.

?
post #1330 of 1759
I cautiously report that I have one more success story to add. I hate to declare victory for fear that karma will bite me in the rear... but, for the moment, my Sony is back in action. A HUGE THANK YOU to all of you who posted here with tips, tricks, and encouragement. I would not have done this if not for you.

I have close to zero experience soldering and was totally in fear of electrocuting myself while working inside the TV. I did practice soldering/desoldering some 18-pin sockets on a Radio Shack circuit board before starting this job. Working on the actual D-board was much harder due to having to work on the board at an awkward angle/poor position with the board still attached to the TV and due to the proximity of so many other components on the circuit board.

I am shocked, stunned, amazed, dumbfounded... and darn happy that the fix actually worked for me. I almost gave up several times before achieving success. I even went out and looked at new TV's which really just inspired me to work harder on fixing this TV.

TV: Sony KV-36XBR400
Manufactured: October 2000
Symptoms: Turn TV on, hear degaussing "whump" sound, hear some normal "click" sounds, see the front panel LED blink a few times like usual, screen remains blank, hear another "click" as the TV turns itself back off, front panel LED blinks 7 times and repeats. Attempt to turn TV on again and same thing happens only this time 4 blinks. Attempt to turn TV on again, same thing, 7 blinks. It pretty consistently alternated between a 4-blink and 7-blink LED error code.

I purchased my MCZ3001DB chips (4 in total, good to have spares) from "corewave" on eBay.

$37.90 for 4 chips and 4 18-pin sockets delivered to my door.

I first replaced the IC8002 chip because I could access that one with the chassis in the "service position". That did not solve the problem.

I then removed the D-board (leaving the flyback transformer wires connected) and replaced the IC6501 chip. That fixed it.

Notes:

Soldering iron used: Weller WM120 12 watt mini duty "soldering pencil". It has a very fine .4mm conical tip on it. The wattage is probably too low to be ideal but the fine point tip was good.

Solder used: Kester "Electronic Silver Solder", 62% Tin, 36% lead, 2% silver, 44 Flux, Dia. .020/.5mm. It worked great.

Desoldering: I used a Radio Shack 64-2098 "Vacuum Desoldering Tool". In combination with the low-wattage iron, I had zero luck desoldering the chips whole. I finally snipped the old chip's pins at the "shoulders" and pulled the pins one at a time. I then used this tool to suck the remaining solder from the holes.

I highly recommend using some small flush cutters (wire cutters - I bought my Crescent S2SK5 [combo pack of flush cutters and small needle nose pliers] from Home Depot for $7.99) to snip the old chip out and pull the pins one at a time.

My D-Board was a double-sided circuit board and my IC's were positioned differently than many of the pictures of D-boards I've seen on this thread. IC6501 was hard to access due to some heat sinks and IC8002 was hard to access due to some capacitors being in the way and the flyback transformer shield being in the way.

My A-Board also has one of these chips on it which I have not replaced.

I did use sockets.

For some crazy reason I've had the Joe Cocker song, "You Are So Beautiful To Me", in my head all day but the lyrics I'm singing are, "You Are So Beautiful... TV".

Thanks again to whomever first discovered that these chips are the problem and to everyone who has shared their story on this thread.

- Dave
LL
LL
LL
LL
LL
post #1331 of 1759
Original symptom no power on -7/6 blinks. Sometimes (increasingly rarely) would come on after being on for a long period.

Other than 1 boneheaded mistake on my part I seem to have a working set thanks to the info from all of you. Thanks SO much for all the info!!

I also purchased the chips and sockets from eBay. 2 sockets and chips (DB version with the original shindengen name, My board happened to already have the DB version chips) for ~ $16. I pulled the board completely and had it soldered by another guy advertising on Craigslist for $30. I just didn't trust my desoldering skills. This guy had allot of experience fixing electronic boards so he went thru and resoldered all the marginal looking joints.

The bonehead mistake I made was not taking a picture before disassembly and thinking I had correctly remembered where the 2 C board wires plugged into the fbt. I had marked the blue wire "bottom". On my version fbt there is another tube next to the anode tube that looks a little like another connection. I put the blue wire where the red wire should go and was trying to put the red wire in this tube that isn't really a connection. Long story short in the process of trying all that I apparently took out one of my new chips. Luckily only one of the old ones was bad so in trying all the combos of old and new chips I came across one that worked.

TV back up and running for the time being. Thanks again for the info and bringing this great TV back to life.
post #1332 of 1759
I just found this forum and because I have the dread 7 light blinks think I have the same problem. Having no experience soldering and little working on TV, but loving my Sony I would like to try to fix myself. My 2002 KV32XBR450 started not coming every time on a few weeks ago and finally stopped working all together. Not having a lot of money like most during the bad times and being Scotch would like to fix. I started reading the results and the amount of information is a little over whelming and wonder if someone could walk me thru a few questions. I have the back off the set and did some vacuuming and started to take pictures and unplug the board. I found that on my set that there were two black tabs that allowed me to slide the boards to the rear with a few wire unties. After removing three gold screws that hold the board down and pulling the black tabs that hold the board down on the left I can go no further. this board and the one on the right seem to be held together by 6 black funny looking things. Do I have to remove the rear section of the set where every thing plugs in and how do I do this? I will be waiting for an answer and reading to see if this has been addressed befor
post #1333 of 1759
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fletch6 View Post

After removing three gold screws that hold the board down and pulling the black tabs that hold the board down on the left I can go no further. this board and the one on the right seem to be held together by 6 black funny looking things. Do I have to remove the rear section of the set where every thing plugs in and how do I do this? I will be waiting for an answer and reading to see if this has been addressed befor

The bridge connectors between the D and A boards do need to be detached from the D-board before you can remove the D-board. I used some needle nose pliers to gently squeeze the connectors and rock them while gently pulling up. They disconnected from the D-board pretty easily this way. I tried doing it by gripping the connectors between my thumb and forefinger and had much less success.

My D-Board had more than 3 "gold" screws holding it into the chassis. I think there were 6 including one near the middle of the D-Board. Make sure you have all of the screws removed.

Once the screws are removed from the D-board and the plastic squeeze clips holding the right side (as you face the front of the TV) of the board to the chassis tray are released, I was then able to lift the front and right sides of the D-board ever so slightly and slide the board toward the front and right side to remove it. In my case there were tabs between the D and A boards and a tab at the back of the set that the D-board slides under. I didn't have to remove the back panel with the connector jacks on it to remove the D-board.
post #1334 of 1759
OK thanks SeaDave I did find the name of the black things is bridge connectors and I am now waiting for the arrival of the new IC's. I will be going over to radio shack to get the recomended repair kit(soldering iron, etc.) tomorrow. I can lift the D board up off the chassis and there were only three on my set.
post #1335 of 1759
OK the board is almost loose. All I am having trouble with now is the two red wires from the fly, but what concernes me most is that one of the IC's on the B Board looks like it has been fried. I think the number is IC 3413. It is a smaller IC next to a large square IC 3402. I think I am going to have to have this tested to make sure this is not the problem.
post #1336 of 1759
As a proud member of AVSforum, and having been the beneficiary of so much help here, I have tried to reciprocate whenever possible to newer members with problems that were within my limited ability.
However my good wife wanted a newer 1080p capable TV, even though our KV36-HS500 looks and functions perfectly, so I will list it on Ebay as we have nowhere to keep it. I hope no one here thinks me a weakling for succumbing to her wishes

I will remain subscribed to this thread forever in hopes that I may assist in the years to come.
Thanks again for all your help.
post #1337 of 1759
Does anyone have any info on how to test the MCZ3001D IC's? I cannot find any datasheets anywhere.
post #1338 of 1759
Quote:
Originally Posted by blue_z View Post

250V, 6.3A fuse, Sony P/N 1-532-506-51

Part# 153250651 has been discontinued. This is the replacement part: 153232500

US$4.62 from servicesales.sel.sony.com

Fuse arrived yesterday (don't know why it took that long [Friday to Thurs. for FedEx from Texas to Colorado] when just I ordered an HID light kit from my car which arrived from the East Coast in only 3 days via snail mail). Yes, my 34XBR800 powers up, but now it's sitting on the floor too far from my A/V system that I wasn't able to hook up the DVI cable to my DVR to verify that it shows video. Wish I'd found out about this and tried it before spending 2 weeks frantically researching flat-screens. But at least I found out our 34XBRs still trump plasmas or LCDs and happy to save a grand or more!
post #1339 of 1759
Now I am in trouble. I just found a KV36 on a local for sale web page for $105 take it away. Supposed to work great and they just delivered the new chips today. And my wife just commented that she does not like the set because it is so big anyway. For this money I think I will buy the set and try to fix the old one myself and sell for what I have in the parts. (if it works)
post #1340 of 1759
Lucky no takers as I had offered mine up for free when it died. Just a $5 part and all is great again!
post #1341 of 1759
Quote:
Originally Posted by HDTimeShifter View Post

Lucky no takers as I had offered mine up for free when it died. Just a $5 part and all is great again!

You might want to plug it in to a good power strip with surge protection and suppression, since it was the main fuse it could have been a major power spike. I think these sets and the chips are sensitive to the normal spikes you will get all day from your power co.
post #1342 of 1759
My Sony KD-30XS955 died this past week and I have been searching the web for a possible solution. I think that the solution is in these threads and I'm just trying to confirm it since I have noticed that several Sony sets are mentioned on this thread and hope the remedy is applicable to my set.

PROBLEM: The set was working fine, no hints of any problems. The set was turned on with the cable remote, the regular sound from a relay?? was heard, and then there was no sound or picture.
I tried to shut off the set with the cable remote to no avail. Not being familiar with the LED's I checked the operating manual for help. I then went on the net to study up on the LED's.
Since I couldn't shut the set off with the remote, I unplugged the set from the wall socket. (No power strip used). After waiting for about an hour, I plugged the set in and it immediately began a startup routine. Again, no picture or sound. I noticed that the LED was blinking 6 times (LOW +B OCP/OVP). I then used the Sony remote to try and shut off the set. I heard another faint click (relay??) and the LED flashed 7 times, paused, then another 7 times (Horizontal Deflection Stopped). I pulled the plug and continued my search for a remedy.

I admit that I didn't read through all 40+ threads, however, I sense that the culprit is on the D board in the form of some IC's. If I'm reading the previous comments properly, then the offending IC's are IC6501 or IC8002 or both for my model set. Am I on the right track?
post #1343 of 1759
You are definitely on the right track Mason. If you are comfortable with soldering then read page 14 (I think), that's where the gist of the repair directions are located, and spend the $30 or so on chips and sockets to get it working again.
post #1344 of 1759
My KV30hs420 had the 7 blinking standy by LED. I found this thread, opened the TV up and located the mcz3001db chips. Found some at a local electronics shop.

replacing the chip in the ic6501 position did the trick.

Thanks everyone for their detailed fixes - they were right on.

BTW- I did put the TV on its face and slid the D board to the left(standing ehind TV), cut the plastic obstructing the bottom of the D board, also used sockets to confirm chip was bad by swaping back and forth.
post #1345 of 1759
I must say this forum is great, very helpful with my issue, so thanks for all the input.
I had the same problem with my KV-34xbr800, intermittently shutting down w/ 7 blinks. If I powered down for a while it would work again, but the problem was becoming more frequent. It finally became permanent last week so I read through this string and sourced the mcz3001db chips in preparation for the recommended repair. But I couldn't help thinking how many of the successful chip replacement repairs might have been simply bad solder joints on the suspect chips. So, before I bought the chips, I decided to test the theory.
First I tried eliminating other possibilities, so after removing the back I flexed the boards slightly & reseated all the connectors, then powered up again, no change. So I then re-soldered the joints on IC8002 and powered up again. Bingo! It powered right up & has been running solid for 48 hours (knock on wood).
So, obviously this doesn't mean that others who replaced the chips didn't need to do the repair, but I think its worth doing a quick re-solder on the D-board first before replacing any components.
I'll post an update if mine fails again, here's hoping you never hear from me again!

-Mark
post #1346 of 1759
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mraknroll View Post

I must say this forum is great, very helpful with my issue, so thanks for all the input.
I had the same problem with my KV-34xbr800, intermittently shutting down w/ 7 blinks. If I powered down for a while it would work again, but the problem was becoming more frequent. It finally became permanent last week so I read through this string and sourced the mcz3001db chips in preparation for the recommended repair. But I couldn't help thinking how many of the successful chip replacement repairs might have been simply bad solder joints on the suspect chips. So, before I bought the chips, I decided to test the theory.
First I tried eliminating other possibilities, so after removing the back I flexed the boards slightly & reseated all the connectors, then powered up again, no change. So I then re-soldered the joints on IC8002 and powered up again. Bingo! It powered right up & has been running solid for 48 hours (knock on wood).
So, obviously this doesn't mean that others who replaced the chips didn't need to do the repair, but I think its worth doing a quick re-solder on the D-board first before replacing any components.
I'll post an update if mine fails again, here's hoping you never hear from me again!

-Mark

Thanks for the report Mark. It will be very interesting to see if your resoldering method results in a permanent repair! And post an update sometime down the road even if everything continues to work.
post #1347 of 1759
Hi
I have a Sony KV XBR34 800.
I changed the 2 ic chips, but after putting everything back together again, I can't seem to locate the proper areas for three connectors to plug into, and where a spring that I found in the Sony's shell, connects to.

Standing behind the TV, on the right side of the D board the are two possible places to connect two unconnected plugs into. I'm not sure which of the two (actually four connectors are still open) possible places that are open to connect to, I should plug the two unattached connectors in this area into.

So to try to re-explain the problem: I have two unconnected plugs, and there are four possible places to connect the two plugs into. I need someone to call me or email me a picture which shows where these two connectors plug into.

I also by accident pulled out the white wire with the red connector out of the CSX board. I am not sure where that red connector plugs into. I need the same feed back that I need in my first problem.

Last, I found a spring in the Sony KV XBR 34 800 that was not connected to anything. It must have popped off of someplace that it was connected to, when I took the D board out of the Sony TV. Again I need feed back on where I should attach it to.

If someone can't email me their telephone number so that I can call them for the information that I need, if they can take a picture or these areas, and email the pictures to me, it would really help me, and allow me to complete the repair on the Sony.

My email is palabsinc@gmail.com.

Waiting and hoping,

Jeffrey Cohan
post #1348 of 1759
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffrey Cohan View Post

Hi
I have a Sony KV XBR34 800.
I changed the 2 ic chips, but after putting everything back together again, I can't seem to locate the proper areas for three connectors to plug into, and where a spring that I found in the Sony's shell, connects to.

Standing behind the TV, on the right side of the D board the are two possible places to connect two unconnected plugs into. I'm not sure which of the two (actually four connectors are still open) possible places that are open to connect to, I should plug the two unattached connectors in this area into.

So to try to re-explain the problem: I have two unconnected plugs, and there are four possible places to connect the two plugs into. I need someone to call me or email me a picture which shows where these two connectors plug into.

I also by accident pulled out the white wire with the red connector out of the CSX board. I am not sure where that red connector plugs into. I need the same feed back that I need in my first problem.

Last, I found a spring in the Sony KV XBR 34 800 that was not connected to anything. It must have popped off of someplace that it was connected to, when I took the D board out of the Sony TV. Again I need feed back on where I should attach it to.

If someone can't email me their telephone number so that I can call them for the information that I need, if they can take a picture or these areas, and email the pictures to me, it would really help me, and allow me to complete the repair on the Sony.

My email is palabsinc@gmail.com.

Waiting and hoping,

Jeffrey Cohan

I'm guessing the spring is from your on/off switch. Since all of these boards are a little different from model to model , the best thing to do is to post pic's of your board showing where the plugs and connectors are, that way we can all see and make sure you have it right. this would be just a guess but your white wire with red connector goes to a connection about an inch to 2 inches in from the bottom right of the cx board as your are looking from the front of the TV.
post #1349 of 1759
Thanks Rtmach

I will do that tomorrow. You are right about the white wire with the red tip. I remember taking it off of the cx board from the area that you described. But after looking at that area, I can't find any solder or holes where that board would fit into. IF I had a picture of that connector being attached to a certain spot on the cx board, I could probably figure out where to solder it to. But thanks again.
Respectfully
Jeffrey Cohan
palabsinc@gmail.com
post #1350 of 1759
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffrey Cohan View Post

Thanks Rtmach

I will do that tomorrow. You are right about the white wire with the red tip. I remember taking it off of the cx board from the area that you described. But after looking at that area, I can't find any solder or holes where that board would fit into. IF I had a picture of that connector being attached to a certain spot on the cx board, I could probably figure out where to solder it to. But thanks again.
Respectfully
Jeffrey Cohan
palabsinc@gmail.com

You might want to look inside the red part and see if the tab is there , you might have broke it off. On my set's it looks like a tab connection not solder connection.
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