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You have a Sony that won't power on and the standby light blinks... Help and suggesti - Page 48

post #1411 of 1759
rtmach: Thanks for the help. I re-soldered all my pins, everything looked good. But, still have the 6. Has anyone here replaced these with good results:
-.1 Ohm 1/2W Fusible resistor (2 per board). Order 120293361, $.99ea.
-1200uF 250V Electrolytic capacitor (2 per board). Order 1200UF250V E, $6.99ea.

Any other advice is greatly appreciated.

Best,

Rob
post #1412 of 1759
Quote:
Originally Posted by robmcd View Post

rtmach: Thanks for the help. I re-soldered all my pins, everything looked good. But, still have the 6. Has anyone here replaced these with good results:
-.1 Ohm 1/2W Fusible resistor (2 per board). Order 120293361, $.99ea.
-1200uF 250V Electrolytic capacitor (2 per board). Order 1200UF250V E, $6.99ea.

Any other advice is greatly appreciated.

Best,

Rob

You might have damaged the chips, one or both, are the chips in the correct position? I was in your position before and almost gave up on my first 40. I decided to take out the chips look over the board and clean any specs of solder and then compare the under side of the board to some pics in this thread of a board before repair. I took my time and tried one last time and it worked, no problems since. It will only cost another $15 to try , after that you will be chasing rabbits without being board certified and may end up breaking something else. the good thing is that 6 blinks mean that the problem is on the D board and you might be able to find another on the models I listed earlier from a non working set on craigs list. any xbr800 size will have the same board along with a bunch of others. I paid $100 for my first xbr40 and had to install 2 sets of chips to get it right, with supplies I have about $140 in it and would still put more into it if needed for that picture, I'm always looking on craigs list for sets with the same boards , just in case. I think there was someone in a early post in this thread who may have replaced some of those parts you have listed, not sure of the results.
post #1413 of 1759
rtmach: Man, I'm right with you. A year ago, on my first round, I tracked down several 36 inchers for their D boards. I didn't buy anything because my fix worked on the first pass.

That's what has me hammered, all I did this time was pop in new chips. It went straight to 6 blinks.

I did swap chips around, every combination gave the same results. Course, I'm aware that I might have popped loose some solder.

I'm not giving up. The picture on this thing is gorgeous. Gonna pull the board out this week and give it another run. Plus, I have a line on a working 36" with good remote for $50.

Thanks much,

Rob
post #1414 of 1759
Hello everyone.
My in-laws have a KV27HS420 & have been having problems lately with the set turning off randomly. When I asked they said it would work fine then picture would go black (still has audio) and they would get the red blinking light before the set completely shut down. It powers back up just fine but constantly has this problem.
After reading through this thread I asked how many blinks they were getting & was told 6. I decided to give a look myself by going into the error display. It's showing 1 error for AKB, 1 error for H Stop, & 1 error for Low B.

I've read through most of this thread again & I'm starting to get confused. I know there's no definitive answer but what IC's are the most common problems with the above errors?
Also, I have no soldering experience on circuit boards & not too confident on loosing my virginity on someone else's set So I may suggest that they purchase the parts & have a shop replace them as someone already mentioned in this thread.

Any help or advice would is greatly appreciated. Thanks.
post #1415 of 1759
I fixed one just like that and the board has to be put into the service position. There are 2 18 pin chips on the D board that you can easily find when the back is taken off, the chips are only $15, but unless they have a friend that works at a shop they will pay at least $150 maybe less, maybe more. A regular repair shop will ask for a diagnostic charge and a repair charge if you bring it to them. They might be better off getting a new similar size flat screen. I talked with some shops around here before I tried my first repair and they wanted to replace the board rather then take my word on what was wrong for $300+. I would also say that an equal size replacement would need to be at least in the 32-34 inch size for a wide screen to get the same height as they are use to. a 27 inch wide screen will only give them about a 19-20 inch pic in SD. I said this in another post , the parts are cheap so the best idea is to try yourself or find somebody that can solder and have them read this thread and then try. the worst outcome is you only spent $15, if you take it to a shop it might be $300+. at that point a new TV might be a better option. Before attempting a repair leave the tv unplugged for a few days to avoid getting shocked.
post #1416 of 1759
Well, I pulled the chip and desoldered and cleaned the sockets. Soldered everything back in and still have the 6 blinks. I think I'll order the other parts from Tri-State and give them a try.

In a hurry, I popped the edge of a chip up with a screwdriver and shorted across these parts (R8047 and JW8035). Not quite sure what they are. Should I replace them? Nothing burned through, just a tiny arc.

Thanks again,

RobMc
LL
post #1417 of 1759
Quote:
Originally Posted by robmcd View Post

Well, I pulled the chip and desoldered and cleaned the sockets. Soldered everything back in and still have the 6 blinks. I think I'll order the other parts from Tri-State and give them a try.

In a hurry, I popped the edge of a chip up with a screwdriver and shorted across these parts (R8047 and JW8035). Not quite sure what they are. Should I replace them? Nothing burned through, just a tiny arc.

Thanks again,

RobMc

Arc's are never good. you could have damage something else besides those parts . after the next chips if it doesn't work I would think about another board. finding those parts could be difficult unless sonyparts keeps them in stock.https://servicesales.sel.sony.com/ec...oductSearch.do
post #1418 of 1759
Well I finally got my camera back, took a couple pics. hope they come out. I am not sure about the possibility of a trace on the IC6501 # 3 pin I looked over the board pic on page 15 of this thread and it appears to be bridged with C6518. Is this correct or is it simply that the board on page 15 is damaged and repaired with a small wire? I did also notice that the 7 pin was repaired with a wire, I have been having trouble with this set and the 3 blink then nothing syndrome. I just want to make absolutely sure that i haven't overlooked something before buying a complete D board. If someone could check over my work and let me know what they think, if everything looks Ok then I am assuming it has a another problem. Thanks Dave AKA Mr Evil1

PS I went ahead and removed the sockets and these are new DB series chips from TSM.

The first picture is the one from pg. 15 the other two i just took. I guess they could have been better. If need be I will take some more. Thanks again for your time.
LL
LL
LL
post #1419 of 1759
[quote=mrevil1;19948058]Well I finally got my camera back, took a couple pics. hope they come out. I am not sure about the possibility of a trace on the IC6501 # 3 pin I looked over the board pic on page 15 of this thread and it appears to be bridged with C6518. Is this correct or is it simply that the board on page 15 is damaged and repaired with a small wire? I did also notice that the 7 pin was repaired with a wire, I have been having trouble with this set and the 3 blink then nothing syndrome. I just want to make absolutely sure that i haven't overlooked something before buying a complete D board. If someone could check over my work and let me know what they think, if everything looks Ok then I am assuming it has a another problem. Thanks Dave AKA Mr Evil1

PS I went ahead and removed the sockets and these are new DB series chips from TSM.
The 1st pic of the left chip just does not look right. Are you the only owner? did someone work on that board before you ? The pins that are on that chips right side 3 down and 7 down, should look like the other chip. they should be solidly soldered to the pads around them with no jump wire, unless there is a circuit line that has been damaged. look at post 344 for a pic and you will see that the 3 pin does not have a circuit line coming off it but the 7 appears to have one. The pins still need to be soldered in like the rest and not have an open area around them. if it were mine I would remove the solder from those 2 pins and the bridges and compare to pic in post 344 to see if a jump wire is needed on 7 , then solder them in solid.
post #1420 of 1759
I should have been more clear, the first picture is the one off page 15 of this thread, not my set. The other darker photos are of my set, i was just confused as to the "jumper wires" on that first picture and if I needed to make a bridge on the 3 pin as my board does not have one in that location. I used a solder sucker and wasn't sure if I didn't remove a trace on accident. I am still getting 3 blinks then nothing.
post #1421 of 1759
Your pics are hard to see. in the pic in the 344 post you can see the circuit lines around the chip and you can compare. the second pic in that post shows the job done , so you can see if yours looks the same after you finish. I have said this before but it never hurts to use a very bright light with a magnifying glass to make sure you can see any imperfections and traces that will cause problems. I did my first repair without them and ended up with 3 blinks. here's a link to a similar one I use.http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-TABLE-TOP-CL...item43a4f133d3
post #1422 of 1759
My XBR 400 set has the dreaded 7 blinks.

Does anyone know if replacing these chips will ruin my ISF calibration. My set was professionally calibrated a few years back.
post #1423 of 1759
I can say that I have 2 kv40xbr800's made the same month and year, I have replaced the chips in one of them, the other is still original. the other difference is the one with original chips was not used much so the tube has had less use. I have them in the same room and have spent a lot of hours trying to get them to look the same and have not been able to. I think the chips may cause a change , but until I do the other set I can't be sure yet. You might want to ask that question in another thread that has post's on the calibration , maybe some other member has the answer, I'd like to know also.
post #1424 of 1759
First I want to thank everyone who has provided input to this forum into how to repair this issue. I have read every page, taking notes and looking at all the pictures along the way.

Two months ago, our 7 year old Sony KV-32HS500 which was purchased new, would not always come on. When it would not power up, the standby light would blink either 6 or 7 times. I went to Sony's website and chatted on-line with a support person who had me try the same routines that you find in the operating manual to try to get it running. I had already tried these and they failed. The last of these options was to unplug the set for a minute. When plugging it in, it popped like it was starting but again failed to power up. She then said I needed a repair and recommended and provided contact info for a local repair shop.

Over the next week, the TV would start every other day or so. On one of these occasions, I left it powered on all the time and turned off the cable box to stop the video feed. That worked for a few days until a power blip shut the TV off and I couldn't restart it again.

During this time period, I contacted the repair shop and others and they wanted $50 to $75 just to haul it away to diagnose. They offerred to apply this charge to the repair, but gave me no idea what that total cost would be but most likely over $200. I decided I was going to throw the Sony away and went ahead and ordered a new TV.

I then discovered a forum (the agoraquest site) and found reference to BobF's many links to replacing the two IC MCZ3001DB to fix this issue. I also found a note to use a hair dryer for 2 minutes into the lower right side of the set (facing the tube) to get it restarted. The hair dryer trick worked and I then kept the TV powered on until the new TV arrived.

Then I found this site. I read every page of this forum, taking notes and looking at all the pictures provided. What a wealth of information! I have never soldered anything before, but decided to give it a shot.

I took the TV apart first to get a look at everything. I moved the D board into the service position. To do so, I slid the chassis out about 2" or 3". I removed 8 screws holding down the D board. I unlatched the 4 connections to the A board and had to unplug 4 sets of wires. I took notes and made sketches along the way as I was taking everything apart. I was surprised at how small the ICs are!

I went to Radio Shack and bought a 15W soldering iron, three 18 pin IC sockets, desoldering braid, .032" 60/40 rosin core solder, a practice circuit board and a magnifying glass from Walmart. I ordered the two chips from the ebay site. Total expense for everything was just over $40.

I spent a week practicing soldering and desoldering the extra 18 pin socket into and out of the practice circuit board. This afternoon, I did one more desoldering practice and then did the repair to the TV.

What a thrill to hit the power button and see a picture on that TV again! Thanks again to everyone here for all the info. To those thinking about it, read everything here, take good notes and take your time doing the repair.

We now have a new Samsung 46" LN46C650 (a PC Magazine editor's choice which I highly recommend) in the family room and our rec room in the basement gets upgraded with the refurbished Sony. Thanks again to everyone!
post #1425 of 1759
I just picked this Sony out of a neighbor's trash. It's a KV-34HS420. When I plugged it in, I could hear the "charge" sound you normally hear on a CRT firing up. Then, it just goes into the 7 blink loop. I've read many parts of this thread, and other google finds. However, it seems there is an "easy" way and a hard way to try a fix. I have average soldering skills, and was thinking about replacing these two chips for the challenge to see if I could get it working again. However, I don't want to shock myself with the CRT, and I'd like to do this with minimal disassembly/pain if I'm going to pay about $20 for the chips on Ebay just for a gamble. Here is a picture with the cover off. Thanks much for any direct pointers on how I can easily identify and remove/reinstall those two chips!
LL
post #1426 of 1759
It is ALIVEEEEE! Looked bad a couple Mondays ago, but now my 960 is back after a chipectomy. I got the 6/7 light Blues one afternoon when I came home from work. Crap!! Well TVs have dropped alot in price, and I heard of sales because of the Superbowl. But, the picture WAS great, and being on a second storie apt, I wasn't looking foward to lugging this +200 Lbs., grey boat anchor downstairs. Then I found this thread. I would like to thank all who wrote on this thread and gave advice, and the pics helped alot!

Just wanted to give back and share what I did:

Removed back cover. Wasn't as bad as I thought. Then...I saw all the TV guts! YOU GOT TO BE F'IN ME! How am I supposed to fix this thing?!? OK, ok, went to read more of the thread. Might as well try it.

Found the D-board location. More reading. There are the chips...I think. Reading. Yes.

Observations: Work slow so you dont bend, unplug, break stuff. Have lots of light and beer...no, thats for after! I decided to remove the D-board for ease of soldering. Before you slide out the chassis, find any wires or connections that need to be unplugged. Take notes and/or mark connections. Note which way the chips are. I removed a small board on the left to get more room to work. I also removed the speaker above the tube for space and light. I left the 3 large wires on the large transformer alone. As you slide out the chassis, look for wires gettin pulled. I had to unplug two connections on the A-board and small twists holding wires. I used large hemostats to unplug small connections and the 4 large gate-like connections between D and A. The four gates need some rocking back and forth to get them loose.


Found and watched this soldering viedo that was a great help: store.curiousinventor.com/guides/Surface_Mount_Soldering/101/

For de-soldering, I used a station set at 625 degrees. It has a screwdriver like tip that worked great. Keep the tip tinned. I found flux is your friend and I swabed some on before de-soldering. The de-solder vac I was using wasn't doing the job. Well...it was ME not doing the job. I was holding the vac nozzle to the side. You need to melt the solder then put the vac tip right over the pin..suck...gone. Cool. I used a large magnifier lamp on an arm to check sure I got the chips loose, and I didn't melt anything I should't have. The hemostats got the MCZ3001DBs out with a little pull. A bright flashlight behind the board is good to check the holes where the pins were.

I soldered in two sockets. Rember the flux. The pins on the chips needed to be adjusted. I layed them down sideways and rolled them over just enough so the pins were not so wide. Make sure the pins line up to the socket and push firm to seat.

Plugged in the connections I removed. Checked. Re-checked. Power...BAM! TV! As I worked on this set, I rember going to the drugstore with my dad and testing TV tubes at one of those Zenith stands with all the sockets on top. Thanks again!
Juan
post #1427 of 1759
Just want to add a wrap-up to my thread.

My saga starts back on page 47. After replacing sockets and chips a year ago, I recently had the 3 blinks return. Installed new chips and it changed to 6 blinks.

I was wary of my original solder job, so I uninstalled and resoldered the sockets. Installed the new chips, again. 6 blinks. I found I could swap in one of the old chips and return to 3 blinks, so it wasn't the chips or soldering.

I started reading about the resistors and capacitors that TSM suggests you replace. A tech told me they are as much of the problem as the chips. So, I replaced them. The old 40" roared back to life.

Thanks for the help.

Best,

RobMc
post #1428 of 1759
Quote:
Originally Posted by robmcd View Post

Just want to add a wrap-up to my thread.

My saga starts back on page 47. After replacing sockets and chips a year ago, I recently had the 3 blinks return. Installed new chips and it changed to 6 blinks.

I was wary of my original solder job, so I uninstalled and resoldered the sockets. Installed the new chips, again. 6 blinks. I found I could swap in one of the old chips and return to 3 blinks, so it wasn't the chips or soldering.

I started reading about the resistors and capacitors that TSM suggests you replace. A tech told me they are as much of the problem as the chips. So, I replaced them. The old 40" roared back to life.

Thanks for the help.

Best,

RobMc

Thanks for the link and info about those other parts. That might help some of the guys that have replaced the chips and did not have success . Only $21 for those parts are worth it to get a 40 back, I have 2 40's so I might get some just in case, thanks.
post #1429 of 1759
This thread is an amazing testament to these TVs, so many people willing to take the time to keep these beautiful sets running. I've read through basically the entire thing, and I see alot of combined knowledge here.

I have a KV34HS420, which I picked up off craigslist for a good price. When I power it on, it seems a little slow to focus and then the picture comes up looking very good, maybe a little blurry but still very good. What's strange is that it seems to grow/shrink the picture depending on the brightness of the scene being displayed, brighter bigger, darker smaller. Both vertically and horizontally, quite alot maybe 10% either way. The TV will do this for between 15 and 120 minutes and then quite suddenly the picture goes way out of focus for a couple of seconds, and shuts off with 6 or 7 blinks. It will turn on again after a while and do the same thing, usually much quicker than if it starts cold. I've set the picture to "Pro" and reduced the brightness and contrast settings to about where I have them on my 36XBR800, in the middle. I'm thinking it needs the two ICs changed out, which I'm reasonably comfortable doing, but I'm wondering if the symptoms I describe before it powers down indicate another possible problem that will just cook the new ICs. I don't know a whole lot about CRTs but this seems like a power regulation problem. and maybe the autofocus (?) is trying to compensate for it and that's what I'm seeing. I know there's people here who know alot more than I do, and before I take it apart and start farking with it I should maybe ask around. These TVs are nearly priceless these days, seems silly to throw them away because of anything short of tube failure, and I'm glad there's people with the knowledge and dedication to keep people enjoying them.

Dustin
post #1430 of 1759
Quote:
Originally Posted by dustnbone View Post

This thread is an amazing testament to these TVs, so many people willing to take the time to keep these beautiful sets running. I've read through basically the entire thing, and I see alot of combined knowledge here.

I have a KV34HS420, which I picked up off craigslist for a good price. When I power it on, it seems a little slow to focus and then the picture comes up looking very good, maybe a little blurry but still very good. What's strange is that it seems to grow/shrink the picture depending on the brightness of the scene being displayed, brighter bigger, darker smaller. Both vertically and horizontally, quite alot maybe 10% either way. The TV will do this for between 15 and 120 minutes and then quite suddenly the picture goes way out of focus for a couple of seconds, and shuts off with 6 or 7 blinks. It will turn on again after a while and do the same thing, usually much quicker than if it starts cold. I've set the picture to "Pro" and reduced the brightness and contrast settings to about where I have them on my 36XBR800, in the middle. I'm thinking it needs the two ICs changed out, which I'm reasonably comfortable doing, but I'm wondering if the symptoms I describe before it powers down indicate another possible problem that will just cook the new ICs. I don't know a whole lot about CRTs but this seems like a power regulation problem. and maybe the autofocus (?) is trying to compensate for it and that's what I'm seeing. I know there's people here who know alot more than I do, and before I take it apart and start farking with it I should maybe ask around. These TVs are nearly priceless these days, seems silly to throw them away because of anything short of tube failure, and I'm glad there's people with the knowledge and dedication to keep people enjoying them.

Dustin

I had a something like that on one of mine but it was from a sloppy repair and specks of solder in the wrong place. It would get blurry and go out of focus then cut off when there was sudden bright scene in the vivid or standard setting. replacing the chips is cheap and may work, but robmcd gave a link to some other parts you might want to replace also. I had talked with a Sony TV tech when I had that problem and he suggested it was those parts also. You can get all the parts for about $40, so it might be worth a try.
post #1431 of 1759
What a long history with this topic. 48 pages, 1430 responses.
Sorry, I did not read everything, just some selected topics.
Similar stories like mine; Purchased a newer LED LCD 42 inches TV and then tried to fix the KV32HS510. I downloaded the service manual, that included the schematics, troubleshootings, PCB diagram showing component locations, etc. (18megs) and the datasheet for the MCZ3001D which actually did not have anything interesting just some internal logic diagram and the actual purpose of the IC that is a "Pulse Width Modulated Control Circuit"
I am Electronic System Engineer, and my first job 11 years ago were 7 months with Zenith/LG Electronics on the design department, specifically the PCB layout area.

However, I was lazy to actually think of the possible causes of the problem or analyze the circuit, so I just replaced the 2 IC's mentioned here, and then it started working. I tried also to replace the 2 big 1200uF capacitors as those looked not so flat from the top, but because nobody sells that capacitor locally in town and they cost like online around $18USD from the original brand ($9USD the panasonic version), I decided to solder again the originals because they were not inflated excessively and I can save almost $40usd if buying the original brand.

As I said the TV worked fine when I tested, and probably just have it turned on probably 2 or 3 hours. Then I relocate the set, because I had already hanging from the wall my new razorled VIZIO 42", and plugged it on my kids games room. Just 10 minutes later the TV suddently turned off (before it did not have that behavior) and then just showed the 6 or 7 blink codes
post #1432 of 1759
continuing with the story, as the limit of characters for the post prevented me to continue.

Tonight I'll give it another try. I purchased online for my first attempt the non B version of the IC and replaced IC8002, did not worked, so then I found the IC with the B version locally and the socket, so I replaced the IC6501 and then it worked (until it died again 3 hours later). So what I am going to do is to check first the voltages based on the service manual typical voltages;
IC6501 (MCZ3001DB)
Pin Volt
1 2.8
2 1.8
3 2.2
4 2.8
5 ground
IC8002 (MCZ3001D)
1 2.6
2 1.8
3 2.2
4 2.5
5 ground

I will also replace the IC8002 with a "B" version and a socket. Hopefully it is just the non "B" version that is very sensitive with current TV condition or was slightly damaged when soldered directly to the board. If this is not working I'll give up as my wife is telling me to don't invest more time or money on the TV. I just saw on craiglist a similar TV just by 40 bucks and it is working, and my current investment is 45usd including the new MCZ3001DB I am going to purchase tonight. I'll keep you posted with the results.
(Also I will try to find the e-mail of one of the design engineersof this TV, I visited Sony Tijuana 10 years ago and got some contacts, If my contacts are still working there probably they can tell me what was wrong with this issue )
Ic8002 reading 5volts on pin 2, ic6501 ok. Swaped the ics same problem. Now i get 4 or 6 or 7 blinks. Reviewed for any solder splashes and everything was ok. Probably i will give it to my father in law if he wants to invest on the repair. I will not invest more resources. Ah, and i couldn't find my old sony designers contacts.
post #1433 of 1759
just to update. its been 7 months since my rechipping, and my kv-34xbr910 is working perfectly. keep up the good service every one. thanks again.

here is my original post
Quote:
Originally Posted by thich View Post

i want to thank each one of you for giving me the info and confidence needed to turn my 34XBR910 into a working TV again. i have very little, to no experience soldering on boards, so i hope this will encourage more to take on the task themselves.

like so many of the previous posters i had the 6-7 blinking code. after reading this thread i ordered a few mcz3001db IC chips, and got ready. it was pretty much as it was described; remove the back panel, unclip the board, unscrew the board, disconnect all the wires EXCEPT THE BIG RED ONE, desolder the ships, solder the new chips, put it all back together.

here are the before and after pics. i had started to desolder before i remembered to take pics.
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
post #1434 of 1759
Nice pics, they will make a good reference for what it should look like after a good solder job.
post #1435 of 1759
Quote:
Originally Posted by rtmach View Post

Nice pics, they will make a good reference for what it should look like after a good solder job.

Thanks! i hope some one can use them.
post #1436 of 1759
Thanks to everyone who posted their experiences with the sony 6 or 7 blink problem. Your advice has been instrumental in my own repair on my 34" Sony (KV-34XBR900).

Briefly: my set would not start. When we clicked on the ON button, the standby light would blink slowly, and then begin blinking quickly. The fast blinks were repeating in a 6 or 7 blink sequence.

The hairdryer trick worked for us, i.e. blowing a hairdryer into the back lower right side (as viewed from the front) for about 2 or 3 minutes. That was required every time we wanted to start the set. We did that for two weeks while I read through this thread, and ordered the parts. I ordered my parts from Tri State Module (wwwdotTriStateModuledotcom). Parts arrived in 2 days. I ordered 2 NCZ3001DB chips, 2 18-pin DIP sockets, and the other parts that were suggested by Tri State and Sony: two 1200uf capacitors, and two 0.1 ohm / 2W fusible resistors. My plan was to just install the ICs and see if that fixed the problems, and have the other parts on hand in case it didn't.

The most time-consuming part of the repair was getting the screws out that held the board in place. One screw in particular was underneath the picture tube with no room above it to use a screw driver. So, I used an offset Phillips screwdriver, and the blade of a miniature screw driver set to work it out. Took about 1 hour.

I disconnected 4 cables that ran from the D-board to other parts of the TV, and was able to rotate the board up 90 degrees. I worked on it in this position. I used a 25 watt soldering pencil and desoldering braid. This worked. Soldering in the two sockets, plugged the chips in. I did not install the capacitors or fusible resistors. I put everything back, and turned it on. Worked just fine.

Thanks again for your advice.
Jim
post #1437 of 1759
My KD-36XS955 stopped working this past Sunday. It won't come on and the standby light flashes 6 times. I've had it for 6 years and it's been an awesome set.

The wife and I discussed it and we're not going to get it fixed. I can't see tossing it out and reading about the do-it-your-selfers who are fixing the sets I'd like to give it to anyone who wants it. I don't want any money for it. I'm in southern California. You gotta pick it up.
post #1438 of 1759
I'm about ready to give up on this. I got a KV34HS510 from my aunt, 6 blinks problem. I replaced the ICs, still the 6 blinks, I double check my soldering, even desolder and move the chips around, still 6 blinks. I replace the capacitors and resistors that were mentioned earlier, still 6 blinks. I'm sure I've got the chips oriented correctly too, and I've checked my soldering countless times.

No matter what I do, I seem to still get the 6 blinks, what could be wrong here? I don't even get the occasional 3 blink code.

Is there anything else worth replacing on this board that might cause the error? What about the IC on the A-board? I'm frustrated, but this thing is too heavy and bulky to totally give up on.

There's a third IC on the A-board. Is this worth replacing? Has anyone else successfully repaired their set by replacing this?
post #1439 of 1759
Thank you all for this post/thread. I fixed my Sony 32HS500 and it took me about 30 minutes! I would like to point out that I had NO PRIOR experience soldering or desoldering...

I used the following materials:
1 x RadioShack #64-2060 desoldering iron $11.00
1 x RadioShack #64-022 soldering paste flux $7.00
2 x RadioShack #276-1992 18 pin socket $1.00 (for both)
1 x RadioShack #64-009 solder $10.00
1 x RadioShack #64-2071 soldering iron 40watt $9.00
2 x ebay MCZ3001DB chips w/ free shipping $24.00

TOTAL: $61.00

Keep in mind I had to buy EVERYTHING as it was my first time doing anything like this. Thanks to the pictures and guidance on this thread, I had a successful fix that got rid of the 6 and sometimes 7 blinks on my tv set. Just had to be careful on seeing the correct chip orientation and LOOK OUT FOR THOSE PINS THAT ARE NOT SOLDERED!!

I was ready to dump my tv but decided to try this cheap fix before buying a new one, and honestly, I prefer this tv over any LED's out there... so I am EXTREMELY HAPPY to get my tv back up and running. Thank you everyone!!
post #1440 of 1759
Another good repair, it really is not that hard if the chips are the only problem. I think more than 90% of the 6-7 blink sets have been fixed in this thread by replacing just the chips with carefully following the steps listed in a lot of the post's here.
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