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You have a Sony that won't power on and the standby light blinks... Help and suggesti - Page 49

post #1441 of 1688
3/18/11 at 9:57pm
Well, I tried replacing the 2 IC for my parent's TV with little success (they were getting 6 blinks). After the IC replacement it appeared to be working correctly, but after half an hour the TV shut itself off and I was getting 7 blinks. Unplugging and plugging the unit back in can sometimes bring it back but only for a few seconds before it shuts off again. I imagine when it cools off it may work for a short time again.

The only step I didn't follow was using sockets for the ICs. I had a couple of 20-pin sockets lying around but I was leery of using cheap sockets with a high-voltage device. I'm quite comfortable soldering and I have quite a bit of experience. I used a 15-watt iron for soldering and a 30-watt for desoldering (with braid and flux).

Any ideas what could have gone wrong?
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post #1442 of 1688
3/18/11 at 11:19pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeneral View Post

Well, I tried replacing the 2 IC for my parent's TV with little success (they were getting 6 blinks). After the IC replacement it appeared to be working correctly, but after half an hour the TV shut itself off and I was getting 7 blinks. Unplugging and plugging the unit back in can sometimes bring it back but only for a few seconds before it shuts off again. I imagine when it cools off it may work for a short time again.

The only step I didn't follow was using sockets for the ICs. I had a couple of 20-pin sockets lying around but I was leery of using cheap sockets with a high-voltage device. I'm quite comfortable soldering and I have quite a bit of experience. I used a 15-watt iron for soldering and a 30-watt for desoldering (with braid and flux).

Any ideas what could have gone wrong?

Perhaps you have a less than perfect solder joint? Have you tried re-flowing the solder on all your new joints?

Did you disconnect any connectors as part of the repair? You might want to disconnect and reconnect all of those.

Good luck!
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post #1443 of 1688
4/16/11 at 5:32am
Another kv-34hs510 saved from the dump took 40 minutes start to finish.
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post #1444 of 1688
4/21/11 at 2:17pm
Just wanted to say thanks to all who have contributed here. It took me 5 hours, but I was able to fix my 30XBR910 by replacing the two chips. I haven't used a soldering iron much since 9th grade electronics class and the de-soldering was very tedious. I used sockets and the soldering went much faster. The results are definitely worth it, especially considering it cost me almost nothing. And to think I was about to drop $950 on a new LED TV!
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post #1445 of 1688
4/28/11 at 8:02am
Hello,

I have a Sony KV-32HS500 with 6 blinks that won't turn on. I am preparing for the IC replacement. Did any of you use a heat-sink while performing the surgery? Is it necessary?

Thanks,

Bob
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post #1446 of 1688
4/29/11 at 12:36pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by HWBob View Post

Hello,

I have a Sony KV-32HS500 with 6 blinks that won't turn on. I am preparing for the IC replacement. Did any of you use a heat-sink while performing the surgery? Is it necessary?

Thanks,

Bob

If by " heat sink" you mean the white paste used for insulation for cpu's etc , than no it's not needed.
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post #1447 of 1688
4/29/11 at 6:51pm
Greetings AVS forum,

I successfully socketed and replaced the chips in my KV-34HS510 in August of 2009... thanx to this thread. My posts are back around page 25.

However, I'm now back to 6 blinking lights, no picture (has been stubborn coming on for the past week or so).

Seems like the chips I put in (MCZ3001DB, IC, Shindengen) lasted for just shy of 2 years.

I've just ordered replacements (with spares) and will try putting in new chips.

I just figured I'd post this update because I haven't seen too many posts in this thread about chip life after the repair.
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post #1448 of 1688
5/3/11 at 5:56pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by eclipsedave View Post

photos 11-14

Thanks to all the people who contributed to this thread. I have the same problem and will be taking my set apart very soon to attempt this fix.

That one picture threw me for a loop for a second. It looks like you are holding a piece of the board in your hand....
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post #1449 of 1688
5/3/11 at 6:31pm
so my friend has a Sony KV-32HS510 with the 6 or 7 red blinking lights. I ordered the chips discussed on page 4 of this thread. While waiting for the chips to arrive my friend pressed the power button repeatedly for a long period of time. He then heard a loud "boom" from the tv. He said there was no smoke, and I have not opened up the tv yet. Can anyone tell me what he did? I'm assuming I will have to order more parts now because something popped/exploded, I have no idea.
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post #1450 of 1688
5/4/11 at 5:56am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Th0r View Post

Greetings AVS forum,

I successfully socketed and replaced the chips in my KV-34HS510 in August of 2009... thanx to this thread. My posts are back around page 25.

However, I'm now back to 6 blinking lights, no picture (has been stubborn coming on for the past week or so).

Seems like the chips I put in (MCZ3001DB, IC, Shindengen) lasted for just shy of 2 years.

I've just ordered replacements (with spares) and will try putting in new chips.

I just figured I'd post this update because I haven't seen too many posts in this thread about chip life after the repair.

I was also on here back in 2009 and have the same set as you. I replaced the IC's and used sockets and everything worked fine until a couple months ago when I started getting the 6 blink problem. I ordered 2 new IC's and put them in but it didn't change anything so I put the 2 IC's I installed in 2009 back in. I have found that if the temperature in the room is in the 70's it comes on okay but if lower I can heat the D board with my hair dryer and it comes on okay. I guess some part on the D board is heat sensitive but I don't know which yet. I have already reheated the solder joints and that didn't help either. Try heating your D board and see if it helps. I got the idea from someone else a few pages back on this forum.
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post #1451 of 1688
5/4/11 at 6:23am
Quote:
Originally Posted by vadude54 View Post

I was also on here back in 2009 and have the same set as you. I replaced the IC's and used sockets and everything worked fine until a couple months ago when I started getting the 6 blink problem. I ordered 2 new IC's and put them in but it didn't change anything so I put the 2 IC's I installed in 2009 back in. I have found that if the temperature in the room is in the 70's it comes on okay but if lower I can heat the D board with my hair dryer and it comes on okay. I guess some part on the D board is heat sensitive but I don't know which yet. I have already reheated the solder joints and that didn't help either. Try heating your D board and see if it helps. I got the idea from someone else a few pages back on this forum.

Very interesting.

I'll see what happens when I replace the chips.

I'll tell you what though.. this is making it VERY hard for me not to pull the trigger on a new panasonic plasma.
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post #1452 of 1688
5/8/11 at 9:13am
I'm happy to say I was able to repair another 40xbr today after the 6 blink problem on friday. This was my 2nd 40 that I picked up at a thrift store that was in mint cond for $200 , which included the stand. It still had the original chips. I have it in the same room as my other 40xbr and was always trying to get the colors and tint the same , and can say now that the difference in tints is closer than before now that they both have the same DB chips. the original chips gave the set a more reddish tint, I spent at least 20 hours in the service menu 's trying to get them to match up and finally gave up. I was waiting for the day I would have to replace them and now see the difference. I saw in an earlier post a question about the settings after replacing the chips and this would seem to confirm that there is a little difference in the DB's as far as tint. The way I confirmed this was to take the color control setting in the menu and turn the color all the way off, now both sets are close to the same tint, before the set with the old chips had a reddish tint. I will still need to go into the service menu again and see how close I can get them, but just by replacing the chips they are a lot closer than before it went out.

Good Luck to all who are keeping these great sets alive!
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post #1453 of 1688
5/10/11 at 10:35am
What parts do I need to fix the six blinking lights on my KD-XS30955? I really don't want to get rid of this bad boy. Had it since 2004..
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post #1454 of 1688
5/10/11 at 10:54am
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT

If the model # is KD-30XS955 these are the ones.
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post #1455 of 1688
5/10/11 at 8:35pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by ShinobiFist View Post

What parts do I need to fix the six blinking lights on my KD-XS30955? I really don't want to get rid of this bad boy. Had it since 2004..

I fixed my Sony 32HS500 and it took me about 30 minutes! I would like to point out that I had NO PRIOR experience soldering or desoldering...

I used the following materials:
1 x RadioShack #64-2060 desoldering iron $11.00
1 x RadioShack #64-022 soldering paste flux $7.00
2 x RadioShack #276-1992 18 pin socket $1.00 (for both)
1 x RadioShack #64-009 solder $10.00
1 x RadioShack #64-2071 soldering iron 40watt $9.00
2 x ebay MCZ3001DB chips w/ free shipping $24.00

TOTAL: $61.00

Keep in mind I had to buy EVERYTHING as it was my first time doing anything like this. Thanks to the pictures and guidance on this thread, I had a successful fix that got rid of the 6 and sometimes 7 blinks on my tv set. Just had to be careful on seeing the correct chip orientation and LOOK OUT FOR THOSE PINS THAT ARE NOT SOLDERED!!

I was ready to dump my tv but decided to try this cheap fix before buying a new one, and honestly, I prefer this tv over any LED's out there... so I am EXTREMELY HAPPY to get my tv back up and running. Thank you everyone!!
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post #1456 of 1688
5/11/11 at 2:10am
Rtmach and Sam, thank you on the links for the chips. I have all the tools except the 18pin socket you mention, Sam. Going to order this parts ASAP! Thanks to everyone once again. I'll post once I have my badboy running again. I forgot to mention this. I haven't open my set yet, but I assume when I get the pair of chips I replace both of them, correct?
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post #1457 of 1688
5/14/11 at 9:23pm
may as well replace both, it 's a 50/50 chance replacing just one. I never use sockets because of the high voltage , but others do. I got that advice from a sony repair tech. I find it easier just to put the board in the service position and replace rather than use a chip puller and try to push another one back in, of course I have fat fingers and shaky hands, good luck
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post #1458 of 1688
5/17/11 at 8:01am
Just fixed a 32HS420 with the 6-7 blink problem by replacing the 2 MCZ3001 chips. But now getting sort of a light green tint over entire screen when it should be black. Mostly noticable when no input signal; can hardly tell when a picture is present. Anyone ever heard of this? Don't remember it doing this before; was solid black on no input.
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post #1459 of 1688
5/19/11 at 12:59am
I have a 40XBR-800 and I'm just waiting to receive my replacement ICs in the mail. In the meantime I decided to take apart my TV already and do some vacuuming and cleaning before I do any actual work on the boards. The set has been unplugged for about a week and a half.

After reading posts here on putting the D board in the service position for desoldering and soldering I am still uncertain about which wires are absolutely necessary to remove. Is it really necessary to remove the anode (red), focus (red) and the G2 (white) wires if my TV has been unplugged for this long?

I've read the G2 wire carries about 5000v, the focus 300-600v and the anode carries up to 32000v. What's the safest way to unplug these wires without zapping myself? Obviously I'll need rubber gloves but I just want to cover my bases.
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post #1460 of 1688
5/19/11 at 7:00am
On the 40 I did last , I left it unplugged for 2 days to discharge and only unplugged 3 wire harness plugs and the bridge connectors to get in the service position. You do need to lift the clips on each side to slide the chassis back to get room to work. But, do not disconnect the anode wire or any other wires that are connected to fly back! I done 6 of these repairs and have never had any shocks, but if your still concerned wear rubber gloves or use a voltage detector stick like I do.
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post #1461 of 1688
5/19/11 at 8:58pm
^

Thank you for saving me a world of headache.
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post #1462 of 1688
5/22/11 at 9:33am
I successfully repaired my XBR800 back in 2008, thanks to the help of people on this thread, by replacing both IC8002 and IC6501 (and fitting sockets for them whilst I was at it).

Over the last few days, it's gone back to 7 blinks but then turning on if I press the power button again. Until this morning, when it decided it wasn't going to come on at all.

So I took the back off and replaced IC8002. After that, the set came on first time, so I was quite chuffed. However, after putting the set back together and in position, it stopped working again, this time with 6 blinks!

So off came the back again and I replaced IC6501 as well, but this hasn't helped and it's still giving 6 blinks and I'm at a bit of a loss now, so if anyone's got any other suggestions I'd be grateful as I'm really not in the position to buy a new set.
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post #1463 of 1688
5/23/11 at 2:44pm
I was successful repairing my 6/7 blink 34xbr960 that i have had since 04. I ended up getting the MCZ3001db's from bdent.com and i also picked up Machined Pin Sockets, big difference from cheap regular ones. I could not be happier today as i am watching the evening news, all for less then 20 bucks. Thanks to all the great people on this site!
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post #1464 of 1688
5/24/11 at 4:46am
Well done fltundra. It's a great feeling isn't it, knowing that with a little effort, you've not only saved yourself having to spend a lot of money on a new TV, but also kept a TV with a better picture than most new TVs anyway
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post #1465 of 1688
5/24/11 at 2:42pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by doveman View Post

Well done fltundra. It's a great feeling isn't it, knowing that with a little effort, you've not only saved yourself having to spend a lot of money on a new TV, but also kept a TV with a better picture than most new TVs anyway

Yes it is! Thanks
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post #1466 of 1688
5/24/11 at 5:12pm
Having looked a bit more closely, I can now see that one of the 1200uf 250v capacitors has blown, so I've ordered two of those and will replace them.

I'm hoping that's all that needs doing, but I'm wondering if a) it might have damaged something else and b) if it might indicate some other component could be faulty?
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post #1467 of 1688
5/27/11 at 4:14pm
woohoo, all done replacing IC8002 and IC6501 for my 6 blink standby problem! The most solder experience is soldering my RC car batteries. It was awesome to see my TV come back to life again.

I'm trying to get to the service menu to adjust my vertical, horizontal and geometrical alignment. Can someone point me in the right direction on accessing this menu? I googled and searched this forum for a few hours now and still can't find the procedures.
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post #1468 of 1688
5/27/11 at 4:52pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by SDchargers View Post

woohoo, all done replacing IC8002 and IC6501 for my 6 blink standby problem! The most solder experience is soldering my RC car batteries. It was awesome to see my TV come back to life again.

I'm trying to get to the service menu to adjust my vertical, horizontal and geometrical alignment. Can someone point me in the right direction on accessing this menu? I googled and searched this forum for a few hours now and still can't find the procedures.

This thread helped me alot in the past:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=827058

And this site has a whole list of manuals:

http://www.schematicsforfree.com/archive/dir/Sony/Video
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post #1469 of 1688
5/27/11 at 6:16pm
Well having looked even MORE closely, I decided the capacitor wasn't blown, so I'll return those.

I don't really know what the problem was, but I've got it working again

I took the chips out again (these were the replacements that I fitted the other day) and checked the underside of the sockets, which looked fine and didn't appear to have any dry joints, but I re-flowed them anyway. After replacing the chips, it still didn't work. I then spent some time trying to work out how to test the voltages to try and track down the problem but this was made pretty much impossible by the fact that as soon as the diagnostic mode kicks in and the light starts blinking the power gets cut to the D-board!

Anyway, I decided to replace one of the chips again, which caused a few more relays to click than before, so then I replaced the other one as well and it all started working again. I don't know if the first pair I tried were bad before I fitted them (unlikely, as the TV worked briefly after replacing IC8002), or if they'd somehow got damaged after fitting them but whilst it would have been nice to know what the problem was, it's more important that my set's working again. I took the opportunity to re-focus it as well (which I should have done ages ago) and it looks a lot better and I might even be able to read the text in games at 720p now

My friend will be quite relieved as he was wondering what we were going to do without a TV to play Xbox on when he comes over tomorrow
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post #1470 of 1688
5/27/11 at 7:24pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by doveman View Post

Well having looked even MORE closely, I decided the capacitor wasn't blown, so I'll return those.

I don't really know what the problem was, but I've got it working again

I took the chips out again (these were the replacements that I fitted the other day) and checked the underside of the sockets, which looked fine and didn't appear to have any dry joints, but I re-flowed them anyway. After replacing the chips, it still didn't work. I then spent some time trying to work out how to test the voltages to try and track down the problem but this was made pretty much impossible by the fact that as soon as the diagnostic mode kicks in and the light starts blinking the power gets cut to the D-board!

Anyway, I decided to replace one of the chips again, which caused a few more relays to click than before, so then I replaced the other one as well and it all started working again. I don't know if the first pair I tried were bad before I fitted them (unlikely, as the TV worked briefly after replacing IC8002), or if they'd somehow got damaged after fitting them but whilst it would have been nice to know what the problem was, it's more important that my set's working again. I took the opportunity to re-focus it as well (which I should have done ages ago) and it looks a lot better and I might even be able to read the text in games at 720p now

My friend will be quite relieved as he was wondering what we were going to do without a TV to play Xbox on when he comes over tomorrow

Sometimes you just have to keep trying , good work. Did you adjust the focus by turning the screw on the fly back? One of my 40's is a little out of focus , because it's been dropped hard enough to cause a crack in the cabinet. Can you explain how you did that job, thanks
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