You have a Sony that won't power on and the standby light blinks... Help and suggesti - Page 50

Thanks.

Yes, I did adjust the focus knob with a screwdriver but also adjusted the Dynamic Quadrapole Focus settings in the Service menu as well.

I basically just followed the very good two part instructions here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...12#post5774412

I don't have a Memory card that fit's the TV, so I just used my PC connected via DVI to show the patterns (attached to the linked thread), although I guess I could have used my Xbox or Xbox360 via component. I only used the 1080 images, which I think was right but I might check how the 480 images look.

The DQF settings seem to be shared amongst all the inputs and 720p/1080i mode, so I only had to copy them once to SD/480p mode (which I don't ever use anyway).

thanks for the info and link. I only have some blurring in the very bottom middle and only notice it when there is text, so I might not want to mess with it unless it get's worse. I did a quick adjustment in the service menu and that got it back in focus, thanks

I replaced IC 8002 and IC 6501 per the suggestions.TV still will not turn on. Get blinking standby light. Any other Ideas?? I would like to save this HD CRT TV. Thanks.

Well looks like I'm in the same boat with alot of folks. I just got my KV-34XBR800 working again through its DVI input, moved and the DVI wouldn't give a picture. That was 2 months ago, replaced the board the DVI is on, fired up and had a pictured. Now this morning, tried to turn it on, and the stand by light was giving me 4 blinks, which after some reading here points toward the IC5004 on the D board. Is this integrated circuit the same as the IC6501 and IC8002? Where can I find a place to order these, figured I would put in sockets and replace all 3 while I'm there. If they are all the same IC, why don't they have the same number? that's the only confusing part for me. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Well, went home last night, unplugged the TV, waited a few minutes, plugged it back in and it came on, had TV all night. Get up this morning, turn it on, nothing, but now I am getting 6 blinks of the stand by light instead of 4. What should I do replace all the ICs?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT
these are the ones and you should replace both chips at the same time.

The IC6501 and IC8002 labels denote the location on the circuit board. But the same MCZ3001D ICs are used in both locations. I'm not familiar with the IC5004. (My KV-36XBR400 only had two of those ICs on the D-Board.) You can find the ICs at many different places online. I bought mine on ebay. Just run a google search for "MCZ3001D". They should cost around $6 each. There is a tremendous amount of helpful advice in this thread. Good luck!

Bob

Another Sony saved from the landfill. I want to thank Mark Goetz for starting this thread and especially thank eclipsedave for the excellent pictures and description of changing these two IC chips. My set was new in 2003 and after many hours of use over the years exhibited the typical 6 or 7 blinks of the standby LED. Unplugging for a day or two would let it be turned on OK, until it was turned off.

The information from eclilpsedave on 05-05-08 was still perfect to do the job. Sliding the set on carpet with moving disks made the job easier than I expected. Even overhead soldering while lying on by back was a breeze. I used a 30W pencil tip iron and solder sucker with a flux pin. Changing the first IC8002 fixed the problem but I changed the other so that both are socketed with new chilps. Thanks again for all the advise from everyone for making this job a success!!

I am really excited to have found this forum. I hope to try the IC replacement on a SONY 34" KV-34HS510 in the next couple of days. I have played with a lot of stuff, but never a tv. Always wanted a SONY and I was offered this one for free, if this works it would be SWEEEET!! I'll let you know how this goes. I already ordered the parts and popped the back off. The whole board assy pulls out pretty far without disconnecting anything. Wish me success.

Thanks!

Man, that was easy!!! I bought a desolder gun at Radio Shack for $15 and it sucked the solder right off. TV powered up and I just got done watching American Graffiti. GREAT NIGHT! Thanks to this board & all the great posts.
I will have to read some more to see if I can dial it in even better.

Just another general thanks for this thread´s info.

Got my KV-34XBR800(service manual link attached) fixed right up. I do have a moderate amount of experience, and electronics knowledge however. And in my case just replacing the IC´s wouldn't have been enough.

Symptoms where:
Try to come on and fail.
Then gives 6 blink diagnostic.
When it failed completely, the picture would shrink and then expand in split second on high white scenes from darker ones(Originally it didn't have this issue when it first cut out upon trying to turn it on and gave the diagnostic flashes).

As in a previous post 1 of the 2 big caps was toast in addition to at least 1 of the IC´s having issues. So pulled the board, replaced both IC´s, and both caps. I tested the fusible resistors with my multimeter, which were fine.

The caps might have been my own fault however, as I used the diagnostic mode to get the TV to power up, and left it on until it finally failed completely a couple weeks later. Having of course bookmarked this, the service manual for my unit, and the place to purchase the replacement parts beforehand. =)

3 days now without any issues.

General steps done:
1. Unplug, waiting many hours to hopefully discharge everything.
2. Pull/unscrew back cover on tv stand.
3. Slid boards back, pulled all connectors aside from FBT and connecting motherboard leads going to the D board(and any in the way of moving the entire bottom panel out far enough to remove the D board).
4. Discharging anode against grounding strap using an insulated screwdriver with a wire lead wrapped around it at the mid-point, then wrapping the other end to the grounding strap on the TV. The service manual warns against this (screwdriver under the boot), but so long as you're careful, using no real force, and just barely making contact with the anode, slipping the screwdriver just barely under to make contact I don't see any harm being done. I'd personally rather risk damaging the specialized coat on the rubber boot and the anode itself, than getting hit with 35kilovolts no matter how low the amperage behind it. To give a gauge of what this would be like, think 3 stun guns at the same time for a split second. It can, and has, killed by stopping the heart.
5. Following service manual guide to pull anode(Large red 35.5kV lead).
6. Clipped the smaller red and white FBT leads. Then pulled the motherboard connectors up.
7. Unscrewed, then pulled the D board completely.
8. Using the screwdriver/wire again, this time with a pipe I knew had an earth ground, touched the anode, and cap hot points just to be sure anything that could FUBAR me was discharged before putting this on the bench.
9. Then of course de-soldered using a spring loaded solder sucker for the pins and the bladed caps(capacitors) and a heat controlled soldering station at around 630 or so.
10. Slapped in the 18pin IC sockets, soldered with silver bearing solder(.015 diameter).
11. Soldered in the 2 replacement caps using standard rosin core solder.
12. Put the IC´s in noting the dimple, which indicates pin 1.
13. Did my best to verify what I did, noting polarities for caps and orientation for the IC's, as well as their pin alignment.
14. Striped small bit from each end of the FBT smaller red, and white leads, primed both ends with standard solder again.
15. Put heat-shrink tubing over one end of each wire.
16. Replaced D board back into unit and re-hooked everything, including the anode.
17. Soldered the 2 cut leads back together using portable soldering iron, covered soldered section with the tubing, shrank with lighter and re-affixed all cords to where they were before, roughly.
18. Gave both sections a once-over, and slid the bottom section back into place.
19. Put cover back on with just a few screws, just in case.
20. Plugged it back in, and bingo...came right on right away.

I like fixing things just once, so I went though the extra trouble. The one cap stood out, as they´re intentionally scored at their top to expand out if they get enough strain. I instantly noted 1 of mine having a significant bulge on it (they should be flat, in most cases even slightly concave). Also note the replacement caps are usually not the bladed end ones, so note the polarity of where you are placing them and of course de-solder the standard pin-through points for them. I say this as they will not have the exact same orientation using the standard pin holes from the bladed ones.

Of course this was in addition to cleaning everything out once I had the unit properly discharged, as I haven´t cleaned it in 9 years. It was quite disgusting. Vacuum, then compressed air for everything smaller.

This cost me $40 total to fix, and about 3 hours worth of my time used total I think. Only that high because I wanted to make sure to do it right and get everything back to as near as when I bought it as possible.

No color, tint, or focus issues. Looks better now than it did years previous, as I´m sure at least 1 of those IC´s has been failing for some time.

Thanks!

Images:
1. Board pulled, components out (IC´s and caps). Note the 2 factory capacitors out on my desk, they don´t look abnormal from this photo or even at a distance, but if you put/run your finger along the top the one is significantly raised:


2. Back of board, new caps in, IC's blank(still waiting on chips at the time).


3. IC's in. Sorry, not very easy to see, but all are properly soldered. Bad Iphone shot.


4. And the completed photo's, and a parting shot of it back in the unit, sorry it was too dark in the room for a decent iphone picture.

My 32HS500 manufactured in '03 I bought used 5 years ago for $500 is giving 6 blink stanby and won't turn on. I hear the rhump sound as it turns on and then clicks but no picture. I called a local repair shop and described the 6 blink which he recognized as high voltage error. He said he was %90 sure he could fix it for under $200 with in house repair. I assume he will first try replacing the two ics's from D-board? Is there a chance of these same ICe's failing again anytime soon? If so, I should like to observe my repairmans work so that I feel I could do it myself later if need be. What should I be aware of incase I fall under his %10 chance it's not an easy fix?

Probably will replace the chips. That's not a bad price for in-home work.

For $2oo, he resolderd a single chip and got tv working. Was it lazy for him to not swap out the second chip that people here are talking about? It could fail too before to long right? He also put some patterns on the screen and tried to adjust geometry settings from the service menu that i had mesed up before. Unfortunantly now geometry is much worse and l am very unhappy!

KV32HS500 Sony Wega HD CRT 4:3
D Board has two MCZ3001D Chips - A Board has no Chips

Great forum, I joined a few days ago.I have the same issues of 6 to 7 blinks. Unplug for a few hours, hair dryer trick then plug back in for a maybe turn back on. I finally just left it on for about three weeks. Since my cable box puts out a black signal when off, the TV input logo stays off. Had a brain fart last week and turned off the TV, the hair dryer trick no longer works. I get the DeGauss sound then the seven lights, sometimes six with a few relay clicks.

Sony Memory Slot
My HD CRT has the memory card slot for reading JPGs from a Sony Memory Stick. It reads the older non pro 128 mb Magic Gate cards. The strange thing is during the initial seven light flash, the memory card slot LED lights up for a second.

Perhaps the memory card is accessed for a firmware update?

I really love my Wega, an uncommon HD CRT that is also a 4:3 screen, perfect for all my Retro Game Consoles. The HD has been unplugged since Tuesday evening, I'll give one last try tonight before I resort to the repair. I am going with the 18 pin IC Sockets since there is a chance the chips might fail again at a later date.

I am ready with my Wega Landfill Prevention Kit
I have a 30 watt pencil iron and the good lead solder, bought before OSHA ruined all the current game consoles with lead free solder.

KV32HS500 Sony Wega HD CRT 4:3
D Board has two MCZ3001D Chips - A Board has no Chips

Note: Anyone who does this repair please include your model number as I did above. Also the identifying text showing which chips are on each board BEFORE THE REPAIR, either MCZ3001D or MCZ3001DB chips.

This makes it easy to see which models are worked on and which hold up the longest before a repeat repair.

No luck on the powering up the TV after sitting for a couple of days unplugged, so the Repair is a go. I had my neighbor give me a hand moving the HD Tube, 200 freeken pounds! I staged a dresser in front of the wall unit, lucky a very close matched height. Slid the TV out and disconnected the eight inputs and audio out to the receiver. Wrapped tape around each cable bundle and labeled to avoid guesstimating later which cable goes where. A wide mix of DVI converted to HDMI, Composite, SVideo and Component hooked up to various Game Consoles, Laser, DVD, CED and VHS. Even a couple RF inputs for Analog portion of the Digital HDMI cable box and Atari 5200.

New HDs no longer have SVideo. Component also seems to be going away, most only have one input. HDMI taking over, seen a lot of newer HDs with four HDMI inputs.

My fireplace has a nice 13 inch step, so we spun the HD around and set it there. Even though the TV is bigger in depth, most of the weight is at the tube. I plan on pulling the PCB after letting it sit over the weekend for discharge. No way will I try to discharge with a screwdriver and risk damaging any capacitor from the surge.

I pulled the back cover off and confirmed both chips are the older MCZ3001D chips and soldered in. Took the cover outside and brushed off all the dust, will do the PCB after the discharge wait session. I checked that I can moved the PCB back slightly by releasing the latch then pushed forward again. The A Board has no Chip, so there is only the two on the D Board to worry about.

Looks tight but does the black plastic for various inputs need to be removed?



Now the trick is to be patient and let her sit for a couple of days. Cover temporarily back in place so my pet cat won't get curious and get fried.

There was talk about the IC sockets might be unreliable due to high voltage. The voltage and amp draw can't be that high for the chips, seems the contacts and legs could handle it. Because of some owners having to do the repair a second time, I am definitely going with sockets.

I'll post my results. If successful I'll write an entire Guide, maybe also make a one page word document attachment. An easy printout to pass on to the local Thrift Stores keeping the WEGA CRT around as long as possible.

KV32HS500 Sony Wega HD CRT 4:3
D Board has two MCZ3001D Chips - A Board has no Chips


Dusted out everything inside with a soft brush today. The plugs and PCB were actually a breeze to remove. I left the Flyback Transformer and power lead from the PCB to the back of the tube attached. Got the old chips desoldered and soldered in the new ICU sockets, then plugged in the replacement revision B chips. Plugged in and heard the TV fire up. The tube is still facing the fire place door so I'll have to wait till I can spin it around to confirm. Tomorrow, my neighbor will help me lift the 200 pound monster back in place. Optimistic this baby will work, I'll write a complete guide once everything is done.

For now enjoy a few pics, where's Waldo and find the crappy chips.

KV32HS500 Sony Wega HD CRT 4:3
D Board has two MCZ3001D Chips - A Board has no Chips

SONY WEGA HD CRT IS FIXED!

A lot of gaming catchup last night, had to get my fix after no console gaming for a week!

When I plugged the HDTV back in, it worked beautiful! I really want to keep this rare TV running as long as possible. Not only because it is a beautiful CRT but a HD CRT 4:3. The best TV for Retro consoles!

A shame so many WEGA Trinitron TVs get tossed because of the chips failing. Expensive to get repaired at a Service Center, but inexpensive for the DIY repair. The two chips are under twenty bucks shipped, though it is a meticulous repair.

Thankyou to all the contributers to this Forum for all the insight, really helped to make my repair go smooth! I will writeup and post a full guide of my repair, maybe even a one page word document attachment for an easy printout to keep with the owners manual.

Meanwhile enjoy some more pics.

Bravo, CRTGAMER! Your contributions to this thread are most valuable!

TLK

Congratulations CRTGAMER! Nice job! It really is a shame that these TVs get tossed over a failed $6 IC.

What is a shame is that the TV repair joints want 250 to 400 to do this repair and then they don't want to guarantee it.

Got my 40" back in business thanks to this thread. It took a lot more time than I planned. I had to fight with the solder removal for way longer than I expected. I used solder braid for at least an hour and still couldn't get all the solder off of one of the ICs. I gave in and tried my solder sucker, it worked good once I figured out how to make it work. Got the 18 pin sockets installed and put the new ICs in. I bought the new parts on Ebay for under $20 delivered. It fired right up and has worked the last three tries. Thanks again everyone that contributed to this thread.

Last night, my 34xbr970 made a loud electronic buzz saw type sound and shut off. Whenever I plug it back in, it makes the same sound 1-3 times, then the standby light flashes 6 times. The screen never comes on.

Based on what I've read through in this thread, it's a bad chip/board. Anyone have a more specific idea of the issue, and if it's even worth fixing?

If the sound is similar to an electric arc gap... it could be the flyback transformer that broke. If it's that, it means a new flyback, horizontal output, diodes in some cases and lots of time...
Of course, 6 flashes is 5V supply short or IC504 short, a 5V regulator. It should be the MCZ3001 but it could be something else... For the low cost of parts and the time needed to replace the MCZ3001, I'd replace em. These TV's are sure worth it.

After 7+ years of service, the KV-40XBR800 in the house had issues powering on a couple of weeks ago and last week it plain would turn on. Googling about he flashing standby light led me here and Argoquest.

I'm happy to say that a couple of MCZ3001 chips and sockets have brought it back to life! Had a little bit of trouble figuring out how to get the D board out but eventually, I just slid the tray out, unplugged and unscrewed everything I could on the board and flipped it up and soldered it vertically.

I was lucky my office had a good soldering iron and a solder sucker, otherwise, I would have had to either fork over money for something I will rarely use or suffer with an old iron and no sucker.

Thanks for everyone who contributed to this thread!

The buzz sound could be the Degauss followed by the flashes and a few relay clicks. The chips are under twenty bucks shipped, definitely worth trying.

I wish I gave a try at fixing my 6 year old 36XBR800.

It was in perfect condition. I wish I offered it here instead of paying to have it hauled away.

If anyone is interested, I have a Sony 32" HDTV that works perfectly. I have upgraded all my tv's and although I miss the picture of a CRT, I do like the bigger size I get with LCD.

If anyone wants this tv, let me know. Location is Lowell, MA.

KV32HS500 Sony Wega HD CRT 4:3
D Board has two MCZ3001D Chips - A Board has no Chips

Note: Anyone who does this repair please include your model number as I did above. Also the identifying text showing which chips are on each board BEFORE THE REPAIR, either MCZ3001D or MCZ3001DB chips.


DO NOT ROTATE THE CRT TO THE BOTTOM!

I am in the process of writing a Guide and went back over the older posts in this Thread. I noticed a couple of members have rotated the tube to the bottom for repairs. Then cutting the plastic rib on the frame with a dremel and repair without removing the PCB. A risk of damaging the PCB from the cutting and harder to install the chip. Removing the PCB is really easy, its just a few screws and connectors. The main Flyback Transformer and Power Connectors do not have to be removed.

The heavy CRT is sitting on a cradle in the normal position and could crack the front bezel if rotated. (See pics above)

Thanks to all the great info on this thread got by 34xbr800 back in service last night. Ordered the new chips and went to Radio Shack for the rest of the repair gear...probably 30 bucks for the solder gear and sockets...and 20 for the ICs (bought 4 in case I have to do this again). I did the repair with the board in place and the TV on its face on its stand...resting on several folded blankets. The de-soldering iron from radio shack was very simple to use and sucked the old solder out like a champ...no need for a wick. surprisingly soldering in the vertical was no problem. (if people are new to soldering like I was...there are several videos on youtube that are great teaching aides).

I did encounter one problem...when I initially installed everything and tried the tv I got the dreaded 3 blinks from the standby light . I re-soldered all the connections thinking I had some bad solders and tested again with the same result. After reading this thread further I noticed many folks advocating pre-installing the chips in the sockets. I had a chip installer but was still apparently missing the correct connection in the sockets. I removed the speaker assembly on that side (only one screw) and got a better angle on it and after a couple tries finally got the ICs properly seated. Amazingly the set turned right on !

Thanks again for all the great advice from everyone and saving my investment!

Good job on the persistence, congrats!

I do worry when I read about rotating the TV tube face down for repair. The heavy tube sits in a cradle in the normal position and puts stress on the front bezel when rotated down. But good it worked out for you.

I had no problem installing the Chips after soldering the sockets on the PCB. The trick is to pretest fit the chip, bending legs to match the socket. Only insert halfway, then remove the chip and solder the socket. This avoids the risk of heat damage during soldering.