You have a Sony that won't power on and the standby light blinks... Help and suggesti - Page 52

Originally Posted by TiminIndy

I picked up a cheap digital multi-meter at Harbor Freight, but I've never used on and have no idea how. Once I have made all my solder connections and plug in the IC, is there a way I can test my connections by making contact with pins 1 & 18 (for continuity?)?

I also got this cool LED lighted magnifyer with helping hands for $5.99 and this Pry Fork and Wire Bending Tool for $1.99.

Originally Posted by ggratecc

rtmach, thanks for the reply. I previously tried matching an old and new chip and that did not work. I may try new pair of chips from manufacturer you mentioned.
If that does not work, I may try crtgamer's idea of remelting all the solder joints on my sockets, as it seems possible i have a cold solder joint.

Originally Posted by ggratecc

Still not fixed, however the good news is I just received the new pair of chips and I will try them tonight.
I will post back with the results, but assuming I still get the 3 blinks and off, I will re-float the solder again on both sockets. Keep the advice coming...
Thanks again for those of you who are helping me, I really appreciate it.

P.S. - this kv-40xbr800 has two big caps on the D-board which looks fine to me, however they have some black foamy material that seem to be encircling the cap where it meets the PCB...hope this is not a problem.

Originally Posted by CRTGAMER

Mine has it too, looks like factory installed to keep the capacitor in place.

Does it look like this?

Originally Posted by ggratecc

CRT.. Yes it does look exactly like your photo , so I'm sure you are correct about it's purpose.

Now, I just put in the new chips from a different vendor and still have the same 3 blinks and then off. I just took the D board out again and took a photo of my soldering work on the two sockets. What do you think I should do? I suspect my job with the socket on the left is the problem area.

Originally Posted by ggratecc

CRTgamer: I cleaned up everything like you said, then used an ohm meter to check across the sockets. On both sockets I first checked continuity from underside of pin to topside of socket - all continuity checks were good. Then I went back though all underside pins and checked for shorts to adjacent pins. I found one potential short and removed it by cleaning as you described. I then put the newest set of chips in and tested tv, unfortunately have same symptom as before...3 red blinks and clicks off. I'm willing to fix this D board but don't know what to do next.
Perhaps there is something different about the 40XBR800 that is difficult to fix?
I really appreciate anyone chiming in.

Originally Posted by CRTGAMER

Mine has it too, looks like factory installed to keep the capacitor in place.

Does it look like this?

Originally Posted by CRTGAMER

Maybe some of the narrow traces coming off the pads going to other components on the bottom? The narrow traces may not be connected to the pads anymore. Left Chip 2nd row pads 5 and 7 near the R0553 logo. Check the other rows too, the narrow traces look marginaly connected on a couple other pads.

I just noticed also maybe a short. Left chip 2nd row 3rd pad. Chunks of solder going to another pad to the right in the green area away from the socket pads. Scrutinize any other splattered solder on the white paint.

Maybe one of the connectors not seated right on the PCB? Unplug and reseat each one, including the four black blocks that attach the A and D board together.

Right chip last row bottom pad also looks like maybe a short to surrounding components?

Originally Posted by ggratecc

Here is a recent photo of the same area again. I never did resolder any points as I never found any opens in the traces. I even measured across all those small resistors connected to the left chip, continuity and resistance seems normal.

Originally Posted by ggratecc

Hi, the chips were easy to remove as I had an excellent quality electric solder sucker, the exposed part was because of a knife I used to clean up between pads. I will now take your advice and remelt the solder.
thanks again,

Originally Posted by ggratecc

I have remelted the solder for all pcb pads for the two sockets, made sure all connections to the D board are tight, still get the 3 blinks and OFF.
I tried all combinations of the new chips and old and still get the same symptom.

Thanks CRTgamer and others who helped, but I feel I'm at a dead end.
I plan to put the 40" out on the curb, so if anyone wants it let me know.
regards,

Originally Posted by TSM

http://www.tristatemodule.com/p-7979...dengen-ic.aspx

-Replacement of the following parts along with the MCZ3001DB IC's is recommended

-.1 Ohm 1/2W Fusible resistor (2 per board). Order 120293361

-1200uF 250V Electrolytic capacitor (2 per board). Order 1200UF250V

Originally Posted by jwhodges

I replaced the two MCZ3001DB chips in my KV-40XBR800...it starts up and plays for about 15 to 30 minutes and will shut down with no blinking lights...you can hit the remote on button and it may shut off, no blinking light and play for a while and shut off again...any suggestions as how to fix this...

Originally Posted by dkstout

I had the 7 blink error. Thanks to this forum, I replaced the two chips in my KV-36HS500. The picture is back, but the lower part of the screen has a slight bow to it. Kind of drops off in the lower left. I downloaded the service manual and accidently cleared out the memory trying to fix the problem. Before I hit the reset, everything was fine except for the sloping screen. After the reset and me trying to reinstall all of the initial data, I lost the picture, but not sound on Video 5 for my DVD and Video 7 for my HiDef. Does anyone have any ideas?

Originally Posted by daschrier

Last night, my 34xbr970 made a loud electronic buzz saw type sound and shut off. Whenever I plug it back in, it makes the same sound 1-3 times, then the standby light flashes 6 times. The screen never comes on.

Based on what I've read through in this thread, it's a bad chip/board. Anyone have a more specific idea of the issue, and if it's even worth fixing?

Originally Posted by dkstout

When I tried to reinstall the default settings for KV-36HS500, I selected where appropriate the 480i, which was just a guess at the time. Please note there are many four digit item acronyms on 33 pages of the service manual, from page 123 through page 155 for this model of the Sony. I wish I could obtain a key for the four digit item acronyms that would help me isolate which ones should be revisited.

Some of the possible selections are confusing without a key. An example is on page 133, for Category 2170P_4, Item 17 GAMM, where the column selections for "Standard" are: RF, CF/YC, Comp 480i, Comp 480p, Comp 1080i, Comp 720p, DVI 480i, DVI 480p, DVI VGA, DVI 1080i, DVI 720p, MS Menu, MS Single, and Twin.

Originally Posted by CRTGAMER

@ SFX27 - Hairdryer is a temporary solution that eventually will no longer work. The chips are usually the culprit.

@ SFX27 and daschrier - Click the link to my Guide at the top of page 51 in this Thread. Its very in depth, should help to answer any questions. The only real tricky part is the solder work. If you have a steady hand its really not that hard to do.



I asked this earlier, Do you have video on input #6?
If you do, use that Component input for the HD signal. Or you can dive in and risk losing the 480i signals. I would first attack the DVI input and set it to 480p. If it works, then try the higher resolution settings. Be sure DVI VGA is off, might interfere with regular DVI/HDMI signals.

There is another thread on this site that covers Service settings.
Maybe PM the KenTech: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=531494

Do you have a link to download the Service Manual?

Originally Posted by daschrier

I did briefly skim through your guide, but is it applicable to the xbr970 set?

Originally Posted by RobertF

I had done some soldering also before I attempted my XBR400 repair. What I found to be more of a challenge than I expected was desoldering. That was a bit of a pain. I did have an old and defective PC motherboard stored away and I practiced desoldering some ICs on that. that was a big help. I also found a head mounted magnifying visor to be a big help.

Also, as mentioned above, consider installing 18 pin sockets for the ICs.

Bob

Originally Posted by dbsimms63

When soldering in the 18 pin sockets, do you leave the same pins unsoldered like the original chips? I would believe they would so as not to make a connection for the pins, but would like to check. Also, where are the soldering tips? I have never done soldering like this.