You have a Sony that won't power on and the standby light blinks... Help and suggesti - Page 55

I just ordered (2) MCZ3001DB chips and (4) 18-pin IC sockets (2 extra just in case, they were so cheap) total cost $27.18

Any other advise or tools i need other than a soldering iron? Do i NEED a chip puller?
Do i have to Flip the Tv on its face to do this job? Or just let the back end hang off the stand and do the work from underneath?

Thanks!

READ THE OLDER POSTS
I posted a link to my Guide in my previous Reply. Its right before yours, at the bottom of the previous page.

Wow! I didn't know this was such a big issue with this Lovely CRT. I own a KV34HS420 and I wish I saw this thread earlier. I'm also getting the blinking red lights. As many have posted you hear the sound, no picture and then it clicks off. Got this baby in 04 and I figured she had served me well so 3 days ago I went to BestBuy and bought a Samsung[UN46D6420U] LCD/LED 3D set. I didn't know I could go in and replace the board like that. Being in the IT field I know my way around components.
Well I guess that's it and the BestBuy delivery guys are going to take it away today later this morning free of charge. Hope everyone else hangs in there and get your sets fixed. One of the best sets ever made and will surely be missed.

A good CRT is the brightest pic with no lag
My condolences, you really should have attempted the repair, especially with your background knowledge. There are first timers here at soldering that have successfully repaired theirs. A shame you let a good TV go to the dump like that.

THE PARTS ARE LESS THEN TWENTY DOLLARS!
.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. In my Sony KV-36HS500, I replaced the IC chips that fix the screen problem. I entered the Service Adjustment Mode and accidently reset to the factory settings. I tried to use the Service Manual to adjust but there are too many options. Examples are provided below:

As examples, you have the following choices to pick from:

Category Name: 2170P_1 Column Selection Headings:

CV/YC 480i 480p 720p 1080i VGA 1080i 1080i MS

Category Name: 2170P_3 Column Selection Headings:

Comp Comp Comp Comp DVI DVI DVI DVI DVI MS MS
RF CV/YC 480i 480p 1080i 720p 480i 480p VGA 1080i 720p Menu Single Twin

Which should I be using for this TV?

On the two above category names listed above, the initial values are almost all the same, but for other categories, it appears to make a big difference. Does anyone have a cheat sheet for what each Category Name is for?

Again, any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Mine lasted a year and a half and started up with the 6 blinks again. I have been using the hair dryer for the last 6 months and it always stayed on until last week it went off and couldn't get it back on. I am going to replace the 2 electrolytics and 2 resistors along with the 2 IC's as recommended by Tri State Module this time. Does anyone know which 2 resistors they are as I see more than 2 of the .1 ohm resistors in my set in that area.

I am trying to repair my Sony 40XBR800. I started out with the 6 and 7 blink issue. I installed sockets and inserted new MCZ3001DB chips into both IC6501 and IC8002.

I now get 3 blinks. I have checked and double checked the connections. The old chips also give the 3 blinks now instead of the six or seven as before. I have also tried mixing the chips thinking that perhaps one was defective, but without success.

I removed the chips from the sockets and checked all the conncetions with an ohm meter. The pins with bridges show 0 ohms between the connection and the bridge end point. I also measured the resistance between each adjacent pin and did have two that measured 10kOhm? Even after carefully resoldering the joint, it still measured the same.

Not sure what to make of it and was hoping someone could shed some light on this for me. Help is much appreciated!

Here is someone else with 3 blinks after replacing the IC's.

yes my wega had 6 blinks replaced chips
and it worked for about 2 years
the began blinking again

as I used sockets
I swaped the chips spots
and it worked a few more weeks
THEN WENT TO 3 BLINK MODE
HEATING THE AREA OF THE CHIPS ALLOWED THE TV TO WORK
so I just leave it on now

anyway try the hair dryer trick
and also retry your solder connections

I had previously checked (several times using a volt meter) all of the connections with the sockets I had installed.

After your comments, I removed the sockets (I am getting desperate) and soldered the chips directly trying to illuminate a possible connection problem, still 3 blinks. I then tried the blow dryer trick but with no luck either.

I have ordered an IC6505 (SE140N) which is to arrive in a few days. This is the chip that the diagnostics (3 blinks) says is bad. Perhaps it is defective because I have tried just about everything to validate the repair.

Interestingly, after removing the sockets, I gently cleaned the area and measured resistance across adjacent pins. Without anything installed, some of the pins have 10kOhms although I did not document them. After noting this, since I had noticed the same earlier with the sockets installed which is why I thought the sockets might be the culprits, I knew then that removing the sockets was probably not going to resolve the issue.

So i tried fixing my 34XBR800 Sat night (for the 6-7 blink problem). I had my 2 sockets and 2 MCZ3001DB chips.
It took awhile to de-solder and solder the chips. Then put everything back together. It took me about 3 1/2 hours total. Hit the power button and............... OMG it worked! good as new! It was a Christmas miracle! Thank you so much to everyone that posted info on the 6-7 blink problem. I have my TV back and i didn't have to buy a crappy looking LCD or Plasma. I will buy some extra MCZ3001DB chips. Now that i installed sockets all the hard work is already done. So if this happens again all i have to do is pop out the old chip and pop in the new. Total repair time will take 15 min.

So this is what i did to fix my Sony KV-34XBR800.

1.Printed CRTGAMER's instructions from this thread.

2.Took off CRT back. (I put the screws in plastic sandwich bag to keep them together)

3.Unplug the connectors from the D-Board.(except for a few, follow CRTGAMER's instructions) Don't for get about the Black connectors that join to the other board. Caution: these don't come off, just lift up enough to it's not connected to the D-Board. (Note: I did NOT flip my TV on it's face. I never moved the TV during this fix.)

4. Unscrew 8 screws from the D-Board. You'll need a small philips to get at some of the screws. (the one closet to the tube was a pain and i did not put that screw back in.)

5.Pull out the D-Board (it's still has a few connections so it won't come totally out.) I pulled it towards me and flipped it so the underneath was exposed.

6.Now here's where your time is taken. Desolder the old chips.

7.Pull them out.

8.Install new sockets. Solder them. Note: 2 pins on each chip can not be soldered. Look to CRTGAMER's pictures to show you which ones. Don't waste your time like i did. They are the same pins for both chips.

9.Install the new MCZ3001DB chips. Be very careful and make sure the pins will fit in the new socket. Advise: I prefit the MCZ3001DB chips with the new socket before i installed the sockets to the D-Board. This makes installation of the new chips much easier.

10.Put everything back together.

11.Hit the power button and hold your breathe.

Cost: $27.18

It worked for me. This is the best picture i've ever seen from any TV.

I just ordered the MCZ3001DB chips and sockets from an eBay vendor for $14.99 w/ free shipping. I'll be working on a KV36HS500. I've never done any repairs like this before so it should be quite interesting.

sorry to hear the blow dryer trick failed
has the IC6505 (SE140N) replacement worked ?

I am also at 3 blinks but the blow dryer worked

does any one know what we are heating /
are we heating the MCZ3001DB's
or why a hot [something] works when cold it doesNOT
and why my wega needs to be heated when it goes off at a power hickcup
after running for days one would think it was hot from being on that long
and should restart without the blow dryer but it will not

I have the new MCZ3001DB chips and am just waiting the next power glich
to replace them now
but as these thing work power has been unreally stable after the chips arrived

OK, on further checking this forum I found the 2 resistors to replace were R6526 and R8051. I replaced them and the 2 electrolytic capacitors and put in 2 new IC's but still get 6 blinks. Does anyone know what else could cause the 6 blink problem?

Pretty sure the 6 blink problem is the ICs, so, you should check your work again and again. Use a magnifying glass and a flashlight, I suspect there is a short or a broken connection. Did you install your ICs with a socket?

Yes, I installed the socket and new IC's in 2009 the first time I had a problem. I was getting 7 blinks then and it fixed the problem for a year and a half and then I started getting 6 blinks about 9 months or so ago and I could get the TV to turn on by using a hair dryer and then about a month ago it quit altogether but still get 6 blinks.

It might be prudent to uninstall, and then reinstall your work, and the reason I say this is because with the gradual failure you had, it is possible that you could have made what is called a "cold solder joint" when you installed your last set of sockets/chips. This is what happens when the metal is not heated enough prior to melting the solder to it, the bond is not strong enough and over time, as the circuit is used, it heats and expands, and then contracts when you turn it off, and eventually the connection breaks naturally. Cold solder joints are common problems for first-time work or non-professionals, so don't feel bad about trying this to correct the issue. In the least, it is probably better to give that a go before spending another $20 on more chips.

I'm not an electrical engineer, but I know a couple, and any time I have done work like this, homebrew circuits, custom cables, etc. and had results I did not expect or understand, they all told me, "check your work, check your work, check your work, and then, check your work again." And at least when I had those issues, and I checked and rechecked my work, I did find a fault eventually. Tiny breaks can cause a circuit to just plain stop. If you can spot a break with a magnifying glass and a flashlight then you will know this is the issue. But then the break could be hidden from the angles you are able to view from, too.

Edit: just looked up in the service manual, here is the cause for 6 blinks.

• +5 line is overloaded. (A, B, M Boards)
• +5 line is shorted. (A, B, M Boards)
• IC504 is faulty. (A Board)

There have been repeat repairs on WEGAs, a good reason to use Sockets. Did you install the revised B chips or the older ones?

Yes I did use sockets and the B chips. I am going to check the solder joints etc when I get time to work on it again. Thanks guys.

Uh oh. I fixed my 7 led blinking / IC problem about a year ago, and now the 960 is not powering up. The standby led flashes 20 times like its trying to start, but nothing ever comes up on the screen.

What could the problem be? No blinking lights, the screen just stays blank.

I bought this TV when they first came out, only problem I had was a fuse inside blew, nothing else.

It is being retired to basement old TV-home, as a 60ST30 is coming very soon. Shame there is no market for these, I still have not seen a better picture. It's just too small, especially as I get older. I have to sit on a beanbag on the floor to watch hockey.

Sigh, very very sad.

I'm working on the KV36HS500. I barely manipulated the board and the white wire came out of the flyback transformer. Is there a way to reconnect it?

Edit: Please disregard- I found out the wire must be firmly pushed back into socket.



A couple of notes: There were only 14 screws holding the back cover. Also there were NO PCB screws holding down the D board.

SUCCESS!

Special thanks to CRTGAMER for the clear and concise tutorial as well as other contributors to this thread.

Everything went extremely well with no major issues. I have never soldered anything in my life so the link to the youtube soldering lesson was invaluable. The only thing I would add when using a solder sucker is to nip off any protruding legs from the solder joints before doing the desoldering operation. Once I had done that, desoldering was a breeze and the chips practically fell out.

I must have read CRTGAMER's post at least 10 times to minimize any back and forth. I had all the tools and materials ready and most importantly I took my sweet time doing this.

All I needed Soldering kit delivered $25. Chips & sockets $15 delivered. Can compressed air $4.
Total cost of project: $44.

If I could do this anyone can! Thanks again AVS!

finally reCHIPPED the wega for the second / third time [if you count swapping chip sockets positions ]
and it is now working with a third set of chips

still wondering exactly what the heat does [hairdryer trick]
as that maybe an important clue to the failure mode

a buddy who did air force electronic repairs
said they used freeze spray to cool chip/boards to test for hot failures
but never tryed heat to make stuff work

note I had to re insert the chips in the sockets several times before
the set would stay on [but my on/off power button was depressed/stuck too]
so retry the chip insert if the set still blinks and check other dumb stuff

I finally got around to doing the repair on my KV34HS420. Replaced both IC's w/ sockets and it works (for now). Many thanks to all who contributed to this thread. CRTGamer's guide is a very helpful compilation of all this info who don't want to read 55 pages of this forum.

After I triple checked all connections and got it all back together, I plugged it in, LED blinked a few times, and it came on. Picture was as perfect as I remember it. I watched it for a while and turned it off. Worked all day yesterday and when I got home I hit the power button, LED blinked quite a few times and it came on. I didn't get to count, but it was at least 6-7 blinks, so I think this is not a good sign. For years before it quit working, I think there were always some blinks and a delay before it powered up, but never paid that much attention.

Two questions:


Do others get 6-7 blinks after a successful repair? Before the original failure, did you have blinks and a delay?


I decided to check Craigslist for other failed Wega's - my sister is broke but could use a better TV. I found a KF-60WE610 60 inch Sony Grand Wega LCD Projection TV that blinks 6 times and won't power on. Does anyone know if these have the MCZ3001D ?

I get 6-7 blinks during power up and degauss with no delay. Audio kicks in almost immediately. But my KV36HS510 has always been this way, even before the repair.

I have xbr450 with the 7 blink problem - I also have 2 service manual and schematics for this set. Anybody interested in any parts for free?

I spent some quality time on Sunday and corrected the program default settings, which I accidently reset to the factory defaults after replacing the chips. My bad.

For my Sony KV36HS500, I assumed 1080i, if not available then 720p, if not available then 480i, if not available then RF, if not available then Other or Single when going through the settings. Then I went to the Video 7 to confirm that I could see the picture and the HiDef was setup correctly. Then I fine-tuned the horizontal and vertical settings under 2170D_1 and 2170D_2. Then I went to Video 5 (My DVD Player) and did the same. Then I went to my cable in (default) and did the same. When doing this, it is wise to have a hard copy of the appropriate pages of the service manual in front of you so that you can mark with a pencil what you have selected. If the section does not work correctly, then you have a point of reference. When you are done, you have a hard copy of your settings.

The resolution never look so good. Thanks to this website and the Sony Service Manual, I will get many more years out of my Sony KV32HS500.

Just poking my head in the thread to say I'm still here and I want to fix it, it's just been real busy the past few months and I'm the only one strong enough to lift this thing off it's stand. But unfortunately that's about all I can do, I can't get it to the floor, I can't carry it through a door, and there's not enough room in front of the stand to work on it there. I'm about to get some room sometime soon so I should be back on the job and asking questions soon enough.

I left mine on the stand and was able to turn the 235 lb. beast 180° by myself for access. Worked out fine .