AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Direct View (single tube) CRT Displays › You have a Sony that won't power on and the standby light blinks... Help and suggesti
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

You have a Sony that won't power on and the standby light blinks... Help and suggesti - Page 9

post #241 of 1688
9/29/08 at 2:56pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by falathis View Post

Whew! This is turning into a long post Well here are the raw facts.
- I replaced both IC's 8002 and 6501 (MCZ3001D) Figured if I am in there might as well do both as they both seem to go bad.
- I used the 18 pin IC sockets for easy replacement if they should ever go bad again (hopefully not ). ($0.59 at Radio Shack)
- I used the Braid for disordering. HIGHLY RECOMMEND!!! THANX!! (also Radio Shack)
- I bought the MCZ3001D ICs on eBay for $4.99 a piece and $3.99 shipping. (just searched for the IC name on eBay, quite a few on there)
But the TV is working great and turns on first time no problems now!!!
Thank you again everyone on here!!!!

Hi Falathis, Im having the exact same problem with my KV32HS500 set. Want to be sure I buy the same IC's as you did. Can you provide link? Thanks.
Reply
Reply

AVS Top Picks

post #242 of 1688
9/29/08 at 6:22pm
Just got this tv for free from my neighbor who said it just needs a new power supply. Any suggestions on where to buy and fixing myself? Thanks.
Reply
Reply
post #243 of 1688
10/5/08 at 1:10pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Goetz View Post

Well, I agree with Holonalu! I would try to reseat all the connectors and the chips. It could be that 1 of the chips isn't seated all the way, and I believe could cause a problem like that. Why? Well, I assume you unplug the tv to get it to work again? If you are, then the minor connection could reset once it's powered off via. the remote/power button. Electronics will do funny things. And, since you have just repaired it, that would be where I would start (I am no expert, just saying that is where I would double check everything I did, First).


I decided to tackle the tv again, it isn't my main one and when I went to remove the D board, I noticed that one of the wires connecting the the flyback transformer had broken. I stripped the wire and reinstalled and everything is working great again. If anyone has a goofy picture after installation, check the flyback transformer wires... I allowed about half an inch of wire to shove into the flyback thanks everyone!!
Reply
Reply
post #244 of 1688
10/10/08 at 12:57pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Enercon View Post

Hi Falathis, Im having the exact same problem with my KV32HS500 set. Want to be sure I buy the same IC's as you did. Can you provide link? Thanks.

Go to page one of this thread and look at post #27. It has a link that will take you to the chips I used. I do not have the same TV as you, but I believe they use the same ones for this repair (i might be wrong). I would post the link for you, but it wont let me
Reply
Reply
post #245 of 1688
10/12/08 at 9:38pm
Well I'm glad you got your set working! I have a KV40XBR800. It has been acting up lately. When I push the power button it wouldn't come on then today (football sunday) it didn't come on. I'm in Hawaii and the games start at 7am, so that was a bit of a disappointment!

Well I left it off all day unplugged and just took a look at the inside of the tv, plugged it in, got six flashing LEDs and then the tv came on.

Does anyone have ideas/ pictures to share? Would you recommend replacing any specific parts? I'm fairly knowledgeable with electronics, I just don't have the technician schematics.

Regards,
Chris
Reply
Reply
post #246 of 1688
10/12/08 at 10:02pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Goetz View Post

Actually I did remove the D-board... But not completely.
And I was able to leave most the wires connected.
Did You have to disconnect any, if not most, connections? It seemed to me that you have to disconnect more wires to be able to get the board out far enough to work on. I believe I had to disconnect 3 wire connectors (2 for the Deguass coils and 1 for what seemed to be a jumper from the A-board), AND the jumpers that connect between the D and A-boards (5 of those.. and they were the hardest to disconnect).
Also, I thought of doing that, but part of the housing for the boards, partially covers the 1 IC. And I didn't want to cut any of that out of the way.
I wish I took pictures of the process now . I was more wanting to get it fixed .

Thank You for the post


I have the 40'' XBR and my LEDs are blinking 6 times. I will look to replace the two MCZ3001D ICs on the D board.

My question is where are other two ICs you guys are referring to: 6501 and 8002? What are the complete PNs/ boards/ and if possibly locations of these?

Thanks,
Chris
Reply
Reply
post #247 of 1688
10/13/08 at 4:42am
Quote:
Originally Posted by cjs7175 View Post

I have the 40'' XBR and my LEDs are blinking 6 times. I will look to replace the two MCZ3001D ICs on the D board.

My question is where are other two ICs you guys are referring to: 6501 and 8002? What are the complete PNs/ boards/ and if possibly locations of these?

Thanks,
Chris

The reference numbers for the two integrated circuits (ICs), being replaced on the D board, are IC6501 and IC8002 and the type/part # is MCZ3001D.
Reply
Reply
post #248 of 1688
10/13/08 at 4:36pm
For those of you with the "turn on" problem, see msg #108 and the next one or two in this thread. It has full instructions on the parts to replace, where to get them -- and 14 images on how to get it done.

My KV-34XBR800 went south last Thurs and I now have the parts in hand and will do the repair tomorrow (tonight is baseball and football). I left it off for a couple of days, then turned it on Sunday (yesterday) and have left it on. Tonight I'll turn it off, remove all cables, rotate it, take the back off, etc.

I'm hoping to get the job done tomorrow and will report back.

Phil
Reply
Reply
post #249 of 1688
10/13/08 at 8:43pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil Wheeler View Post

For those of you with the "turn on" problem, see msg #108 and the next one or two in this thread. It has full instructions on the parts to replace, where to get them -- and 14 images on how to get it done.

My KV-34XBR800 went south last Thurs and I now have the parts in hand and will do the repair tomorrow (tonight is baseball and football). I left it off for a couple of days, then turned it on Sunday (yesterday) and have left it on. Tonight I'll turn it off, remove all cables, rotate it, take the back off, etc.

I'm hoping to get the job done tomorrow and will report back.

Phil

Phil,

Best of luck withyour repair!

Take some time to label the connectors before you take everything apart. That makes reassembly a lot easier.

And, if you haven't already, seriously consider using 18-pin sockets.

Finally, put the remote out of reach until the baseball and football games are over. You don't want to turn it off by accident.
Reply
Reply
post #250 of 1688
10/13/08 at 8:45pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil Wheeler View Post

My KV-34XBR800 went south last Thurs and I now have the parts in hand and will do the repair tomorrow (tonight is baseball and football). I left it off for a couple of days, then turned it on Sunday (yesterday) and have left it on. Tonight I'll turn it off, remove all cables, rotate it, take the back off, etc.

I'm hoping to get the job done tomorrow and will report back.

Phil

Well, tonight I turned the set off and -- to verify it was really in need of repair -- turned it on after one minute: And, to my amazement, it came on!

So the repair is on hold since "if it works don't fix it". Parts and tools are all at the ready in case they are needed.

Now I'm wondering if I somehow made it fail last Thursday. I was on a group telecon and wanted to get a picture so I could watch baseball during the call. Thinking the set was off, I cycled the power several times in succession (possibly many times, I was distracted and impatient) and got no picture, then realized the cable box was powered off. Powered up the cable box and then could not get the set to work -- the usual six LED flashes (which I'd never seen before). I wonder if cycling TV power in rapid sequence can cause problems?

No matter: If it works, great. If not I have the parts on hand to fix it.

Phil
Reply
Reply
post #251 of 1688
10/13/08 at 8:55pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by RobertF View Post

Phil,

Best of luck with your repair!

Take some time to label the connectors before you take everything apart. That makes reassembly a lot easier.

And, if you haven't already, seriously consider using 18-pin sockets.

Finally, put the remote out of reach until the baseball and football games are over. You don't want to turn it off by accident.

Hi, Robert -

Yes, I'll definitely use sockets if I still need the repair. My plan is to use the in situ approach and not disconnect any boards, only the external cables to DVD, cable box, etc. -- and power! The Msg #108 approach. Messing with old, perhaps-fragile connectors always worries me.

My hobby is ham radio (W7OX) and I've had to remove ICs before; it is doable but no fun -- especially with 18 pins. Since these will work with sockets, that's the only way to go. Fortunately that hobby means I have all the needed tools on hand since I build my own transceivers from kits, really my favorite part of the hobby. Fixing the KV-34XBR800 will be satisfying once done, but definitely not something I'd call a "hobby"

Phil
Reply
Reply
post #252 of 1688
10/14/08 at 7:45am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil Wheeler View Post


No matter: If it works, great. If not I have the parts on hand to fix it.

Phil

Well, this morning it does not turn on. Repair is back on for today. Here we go

Phil
Reply
Reply
post #253 of 1688
10/14/08 at 11:50am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil Wheeler View Post

Well, this morning it does not turn on. Repair is back on for today. Here we go

Phil

Phil,

My KV-36XBR400 exhibited similar behavior. As a temporary remedy, you might be able to get the TV to turn on by pressing the power button on the remote over and over again. This worked for a week or two on my set before it became totally non-responsive.
Reply
Reply
post #254 of 1688
10/14/08 at 12:12pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by RobertF View Post

Phil,

My KV-36XBR400 exhibited similar behavior. As a temporary remedy, you might be able to get the TV to turn on by pressing the power button on the remote over and over again. This worked for a week or two on my set before it became totally non-responsive.

No need, Robert. I have a small 19" Sharp LCD HDTV as a fall back. Anyway, I apparently have successfully repaired the beast using the msg #108+ in situ approach. Of course the first IC didn't do the trick (Murphy's Law). Started at 8 am and finished at 12 noon; not bad considering I had a two-hour hiatus due to a doctor appt this morning.

Anyway, I'll be 72 in Jan; if I can do this job I figure most anyone can.

In truth, I was hoping to be able to buy a newer somewhat larger (40" is as big as I can go in this location) LCD set. But after looking at some I really prefer the picture in this KV-34XBR800, so I'm glad I was able to repair it.

My thanks to all who have contributed to this thread. No way I could have fixed this set without their very helpful messages

Phil (w7ox)
Reply
Reply
post #255 of 1688
10/14/08 at 12:44pm
Phil,

Congratulations on your successful repair!

Murphy's Law also came into play on my repair. I replaced IC8002 first after it appeared that one was more often the problem IC. Of course that IC was fine and replacing IC6501 did the trick.
Reply
Reply
post #256 of 1688
10/14/08 at 1:36pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by RobertF View Post

Phil,

Congratulations on your successful repair!

Murphy's Law also came into play on my repair. I replaced IC8002 first after it appeared that one was more often the problem IC. Of course that IC was fine and replacing IC6501 did the trick.

It figures, Robert; I did IC6501 first and it was OK! IC8002 was the bad one.

In a way I'm glad, since I'd have been tempted not to replace the second chip. Now I have them both socketed and have two spares (I ordered three replacements for redundancy). If it happens again (Murphy's Law says it will not!) the repair will be much easier -- though socketing the new chips was non-trivial given the visibility with all the surrounding parts.

Now off for lunch and a celebratory glass of wine
Reply
Reply
post #257 of 1688
10/16/08 at 2:32pm
hi to all, thank goodness I found this Im having the same issue with my KV-34XBR800 and saw the intruction how to fix it. I'm going to attemp to fix it myself but I have a question

Parts: (2) 18-pin IC Sockets from all electronics for .30 each, plus $7.00 shipping = $7.60
(2) MCZ3001DB Shindengen IC's from tristate module for $5.99 each, plus $2.25 shipping = $14.23
Total cost: $21.83

Im confuse about the 2 diferent parts I need to order. the 2 MCZ3001DB will be replacing IC6501 and IC8002 right and what do I do with 18-pin IC Sockets (from all electronics for .30 each, plus $7.00 shipping = $7.60)

thanks so much for the help

JG
Reply
Reply
post #258 of 1688
10/16/08 at 2:47pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by siniestro02 View Post

hi to all, thank goodness I found this Im having the same issue with my KV-34XBR800 and saw the intruction how to fix it. I'm going to attemp to fix it myself but I have a question

Parts: (2) 18-pin IC Sockets from all electronics for .30 each, plus $7.00 shipping = $7.60
(2) MCZ3001DB Shindengen IC's from tristate module for $5.99 each, plus $2.25 shipping = $14.23
Total cost: $21.83

Im confuse about the 2 diferent parts I need to order. the 2 MCZ3001DB will be replacing IC6501 and IC8002 right and what do I do with 18-pin IC Sockets (from all electronics for .30 each, plus $7.00 shipping = $7.60)

thanks so much for the help

JG

JG,

After removing the existing MCZ3001D ICs from your D-Board, you would solder the 18-pin sockets where the ICs were mounted. Then you would simply install the new ICs into the sockets. They just push into place.

As a quick tip, take some time to test fit the ICs into the sockets before you install them. Sometimes you have to slightly bend the IC legs outward to align them with the holes in the sockets. That's a lot easier to do before the sockets are soldered in place.
Reply
Reply
post #259 of 1688
10/16/08 at 3:18pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by RobertF View Post

JG,

After removing the existing MCZ3001D ICs from your D-Board, you would solder the 18-pin sockets where the ICs were mounted. Then you would simply install the new ICs into the sockets. They just push into place.

As a quick tip, take some time to test fit the ICs into the sockets before you install them. Sometimes you have to slightly bend the IC legs outward to align them with the holes in the sockets. That's a lot easier to do before the sockets are soldered in place.

I got it! so they become on piece, the 18-pin sockets with the MCZ3001D. thank you so much! you have idea how much this helps. I will order the parts and will let you all know how it went....

JG
Reply
Reply
post #260 of 1688
10/16/08 at 6:41pm
I know others will have differing views on the matter, but my experience, after three decades of servicing electronics, tells me that sockets are a bad idea. They may be fine for a while, but many of them may be problematic over time.
Reply
Reply
post #261 of 1688
10/17/08 at 9:35am
Quote:
Originally Posted by lcaillo View Post

I know others will have differing views on the matter, but my experience, after three decades of servicing electronics, tells me that sockets are a bad idea. They may be fine for a while, but many of them may be problematic over time.

Thank you for sharing your experience.

I'm inclined to use sockets for this particular repair since the MCZ3001D ICs are known to have reliability problems. One question is whether or not it's more likely for the socketed connection to fail or one of the MCZ3001D ICs.

For those with more limited soldering skills like myself, the possibility that a future fix might just require a simple repalcement of a socketed IC is very appealing.

Perhaps this is less of a concern for experienced technicians such as yourself since the soldering is less of a chore?
Reply
Reply
post #262 of 1688
10/17/08 at 6:45pm
The soldering should not be that big of an issue. A little fresh solder on each joint and a $15 desoldering iron from Radio Shack and you can do essentially perfect work with no damage to the board.
Reply
Reply
post #263 of 1688
10/21/08 at 10:18pm
OK, my 36XBR400 has started turning itself off at random intervals. I did the diagnostics menu access and I get 1 "Low B" count...

I also have noticed the loud startup noise and over the past few months the picture has started to "bow" inward on the edges.

Are these symptoms indicative of the MCZ3001D IC failure I keep reading about? If so, I'll order the parts immediately!

thanks.

Clarke
Reply
Reply
post #264 of 1688
10/22/08 at 6:20am
Well Great news guys my KV-34XBR800 is working again. After ordering all the parts ( 2 x 18-pin IC Sockets from all electronics and 2 x MCZ3001DB Shindengen IC's from tristate module) and a few hours of work (I'm not a pro at this lol) I can say that I have successfully fix it.

I went and bought a Desoldering Bulb from radio shack ($4.99) then followed the instructions from eclipsedave Post #108 by the way thanks eclipsedave I couldn't have done it with out those instructions. I had to place the tv face/screen down because it was easy for me to do everything but...... I didn't realize how heavy the tv was it almost brook my arms lol! so be careful. I must add that desoldering is a bit painful but with patience it can be done but overall is a really easy process. Thanks to all those who helped me get this done.... so I saved a bunch of $$$$
Reply
Reply
post #265 of 1688
10/22/08 at 7:33am
Quote:
Originally Posted by siniestro02 View Post

Well Great news guys my KV-34XBR800 is working again. After ordering all the parts ( 2 x 18-pin IC Sockets from all electronics and 2 x MCZ3001DB Shindengen IC's from tristate module) and a few hours of work (I'm not a pro at this lol) I can say that I have successfully fix it.

I went and bought a Desoldering Bulb from radio shack ($4.99) then followed the instructions from eclipsedave Post #108 by the way thanks eclipsedave I couldn't have done it with out those instructions. I had to place the tv face/screen down because it was easy for me to do everything but...... I didn't realize how heavy the tv was it almost brook my arms lol! so be careful. I must add that desoldering is a bit painful but with patience it can be done but overall is a really easy process. Thanks to all those who helped me get this done.... so I saved a bunch of $$$$

Congratulations on your successful repair! I know how great it feels when the TV powers up.

And yes, these TVs are incredibly heavy. One of my incentives for fixing my KV-36XBR400 was to avoid the effort required to discard it.
Reply
Reply
post #266 of 1688
10/22/08 at 11:52am
Quote:
Originally Posted by RobertF View Post

Congratulations on your successful repair! I know how great it feels when the TV powers up.

And yes, these TVs are incredibly heavy. One of my incentives for fixing my KV-36XBR400 was to avoid the effort required to discard it.

yes its a great feeling, I didn't think i could pull it off. thanks for your help . I forgot to mention that the IC8002 was the defective one, the socket had a burned pin. i didn't to have mess with the other one (IC6501).

just so you get an idea I contacted Sony to see if they could refer a TV shop, next day the TV shop contact me they pretty much charge $100 just to go look at it which will go towards the total once the tv is fixed. the $100 has to be paid in advanced so a tech can come to your house. if you decide you dont want to fix it! bye bye $100 dollars. this is in Virginia.
Reply
Reply
post #267 of 1688
10/22/08 at 1:06pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by siniestro02 View Post

yes its a great feeling, I didn't think i could pull it off. thanks for your help . I forgot to mention that the IC8002 was the defective one, the socket had a burned pin. i didn't to have mess with the other one (IC6501).

just so you get an idea I contacted Sony to see if they could refer a TV shop, next day the TV shop contact me they pretty much charge $100 just to go look at it which will go towards the total once the tv is fixed. the $100 has to be paid in advanced so a tech can come to your house. if you decide you dont want to fix it! bye bye $100 dollars. this is in Virginia.

Wow a burned pin! That's the first mention that I've seen of an obvious physical clue for a failed MCZ3001D. There were no such clues on IC8002 and IC6501 on my set. I guessed that the problem was with IC8002 but that one turned out to be fine.

On the repair costs, I was quoted a ballpark estimate of $400 by a local authorized Sony repair technician. That was not an option for me as it was more than the TV was worth. I think that many of these sets end up in landfills or dumps simply because of this scenario. The shame is that many of them could be repaired very easily and inexpensively.
Reply
Reply
post #268 of 1688
10/22/08 at 1:15pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by RobertF View Post

Wow a burned pin! That's the first mention that I've seen of an obvious physical clue for a failed MCZ3001D. There were no such clues on IC8002 and IC6501 on my set. I guessed that the problem was with IC8002 but that one turned out to be fine.

On the repair costs, I was quoted a ballpark estimate of $400 by a local authorized Sony repair technician. That was not an option for me as it was more than the TV was worth. I think that many of these sets end up in landfills or dumps simply because of this scenario. The shame is that many of them could be repaired very easily and inexpensively.

While it is true that many can be repaired easily with just these two ICs, it is also true that some require a lot more skill and time to sort out. These sets can be a bear to repair if it turns out to be something beyond the ICs. As a servicer, you have to make extra profit on the easy ones to justify the time on the ones that are far more time consuming. Not to mention all of the time spent in training and doing warranty work that does not even cover the costs of doing business.
Reply
Reply
post #269 of 1688
10/22/08 at 8:53pm
So is the blinking everyone is talking about the 1 blink per second that happens 11 times before the picture comes on, or does it happen after the TV turns itself off? Also, before the TV turns itself off, is anyone having issues with the image "bowing" on the edges?

Also, here is what my diag screen shows:

SELF DIAGNOSIS
2: +B OCP 0
3: +B OVP 0
4: VSTOP 0
5: AKB 0
6: LOWB 1
7: H-STOP 0
101: WDT 0

From what I've read so far, LOWB is an issue with the 5V. Should I assume this is NOT the same issue that everyone else has fixed by replacing the IC's? Thanks in advance.

Clarke
Reply
Reply
post #270 of 1688
10/27/08 at 12:25pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by By-Tor View Post

So is the blinking everyone is talking about the 1 blink per second that happens 11 times before the picture comes on, or does it happen after the TV turns itself off? Also, before the TV turns itself off, is anyone having issues with the image "bowing" on the edges?

Also, here is what my diag screen shows:

SELF DIAGNOSIS
2: +B OCP 0
3: +B OVP 0
4: VSTOP 0
5: AKB 0
6: LOWB 1
7: H-STOP 0
101: WDT 0

From what I've read so far, LOWB is an issue with the 5V. Should I assume this is NOT the same issue that everyone else has fixed by replacing the IC's? Thanks in advance.

Clarke

Clarke
I don't believe that one of those ICs is the fault....
Your problem sounds like the picture tube or high voltage.
The ICs usually don't let the picture come on at all. And yes! the blinks are after the TV comes up (as in: after the initial blinks and hear the degauss. this is the "warm up" procedure). Then it will blink the number of times of the fault, pause for 2 secs, then repeat. Should repeat until you either turn the TV off or unplug it (can't say how long it will repeat for, but know it will repeat for a good 1/2hr, at least. As it did with mine).

Now, back to your problem... I say your best bet is to take it to a TV repair shop . I think you have a bigger problem then just a IC. I could be wrong, so I suggest if you do take it somewhere for repairs. I would ask them for the old parts, just to basically see what the problem(s) was. But, ofcourse I would ask them to contact you before any repairs are started and if they could let you know what it needs.
Reply
Reply
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home

AVS Top Picks

AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Direct View (single tube) CRT Displays › You have a Sony that won't power on and the standby light blinks... Help and suggesti