You have a Sony that won't power on and the standby light blinks... Help and suggesti - Page 11

In the event you had any marginal connections on your newly installed sockets, you might want to resolder everything. It could be that, over time, a marginal connection might have failed.

And you might just want to go ahead and replace the third IC on the A-Board.

Good luck!

Thanks for all the tips and advice on this board! I did the repair today on my KV32HS420with two MCZ3001DB chips. Followed all the solder tips and practiced with cheap sockets and a small board from the electronics shop. It was surpisingly easy once I got some practice. I orginally paid $45 to a guy to come to my home and diagnose it and he wanted $350 for the repair. All he said was it was the power supply! Total I spent on practice stuff, 15 amp solder gun from Radio shack, solder, and replacement OEM chips(from Prelco at $5.99 each) was around $50! I talked with Mike at Prelco and he advised not to use the sockets as it might deter from the repair. This is a great source for these chips if you haven't ordered from them before. They were very nice and quick from NJ to the west coast. I ordered two extra chips for "just in case" I fryed one of these so I have back-up chips if the set goes out again. I can now add electronics repair to my many hats!

Here is Prelco's site.
Prelcoparts.com
FYI

Another place is bdent.com. That was a good idea, to practice first. Enjoy!

Congratulations on your successful repair!

And thanks for sharing your source for the "DB" variant of the MCZ3001D.

On the use of sockets, I decided to use them for my repair because it would make a future IC replacement a snap. It also eliminated the risk that I might overheat one of the ICs during the installation. That was a good choice for me because I found the de-soldering process to be a pain.

But I know that some repair technicians feel that they should be avoided.

Well, I have become the latest victim of the 6.. and now 7...flash death it seems.

I have a Sony 34" XBR910 that is no longer powering up. I've let the set rest and plugged her back in, same result. a few quick flashes, then the 6 flash sequence repeated forever.

What I've discerned is that there are potentially 3 ICs (Integrated Circuits) in there that should be replaced.

I've soldered and done a few minor electronic repairs; however, I'm really in-between selling this for $200 with a directive to repair it, or fixing it myself.

In 1 month I'm moving, and this 200 lbs rock might just meet it's end.

I'm going to re-read the thread, try to pull out the exact parts needed, and then solicit the group here for any other thoughts.

I really appreciate your time. For now the only thing to do is to grab one more drink and blow off the steam from having to perform a second repair to this set (first was a BAD blue/geometry issue on the left side of the screen).

hey i have a KV-36XBR400 it has a buzing sound as if the tv where going to turn on but then the led flashes ether 4 or 5 times it has no picture or sound any suggestions?? i read thet some of you have replaced IC5008 and 6501.. and i know that 4 blinks means Vstop and 5 blinks means whit balance failure, but i wand to hear it from some ppl that have experienced this before i start desoldering stuff

I replaced IC8002 and IC6501. I had Vstop once and LowB (6 blinks) mostly. Set may work a while without repair if you unplug it and give it a day off or two. Then you can get codes from the Self-Diagnosis screen. You should read this page, most experience on Web with these Sonys is in this forum! (That page shows cutting a plastic frame, not needed, D board unscrews and stands up, good access to parts then.)

There is no need to cut anything to stand up the D board. You just remove the screws and a few connectors and stand it up.

I have a KV-34HS510 that fell victim to the 6 (or 7) blinks. Luckily, I found this forum. Thinking I would need two, I bought four of the MCZ3001DB chips from TSM, tristatemodule.com. I also bought a can of aerosol electronics cleaner, some desoldering brade, and 18-pin sockets. I practiced soldering and desoldering for a couple hours with some old chips and board I already had.

I opened the back of the TV, found the chips, and then like many others, flipped the TV onto it's face onto a towel while still on the TV stand. I did not remove anything, disconnected no cables, removed no heat sinks. I had read on the forums that some had success only replacing the 8002 chip on the D board. This was also the easiest chip of the two to get to so I was very tempted to just try that one. I also noticed that one of the existing solder joints on that chip looked really funky. Like a big round ball of solder on the pin rather than the typical "good" connection. Thinking that could be the root cause of my problem, I had a great deal of confidence to only replace that chip. I desoldered the old one pretty easily (had to bump the iron to 30W). I then "test fit" a new chip into the socket and it fit very snuggly. Rather than ruining it trying to pull it back out, I just left it in and soldered in the socket with the chip still attached. I checked over all my solder joints really well, making sure they all looked solid and redoing a couple. After soldering in a new 8002 only, I flipped the TV back up-right, plugged it in, hit the power button and it worked the first time.

Thanks to all the contributors to this forum. Saved me at least a thousand bucks on a new TV.

Awesome, and ready for holiday season!

Holy Cow Batman! I knew I should have come here first since I researched the HDTV in question right here at AVS when I was shopping for it. Got another 34XBR800 biting the dust with 7 blinks. I've already found the detailed repairs by Eclipsedave in this thread (awesome job by the way!)

Too bad this awesome TV had to start dying right in the middle of repainting our living room/dining room/hallway OIY! Started looking at LCD's and yuck! It was an awesome surprise to find what looks like such an easy fix and our XBR will now likely live to see another day. Once the painting is done and I find the time to actually fix it of course. *lol* Oh well, its better than wasting close to a grand on a new tv that wouldn't compare with this one.

Even my wife didn't want to give up on the XBR Direct View. They truly are outstanding HDTV's. To my eye anyway they rival all but the very best plasma's and blow lcd's out the door by a mile.

Nutt

Sony KV-34XBR800, was 7 blinks seems like 6 recently.

Maybe I'm in over my head here but I'm not afraid to try with a few more answers. I've done quite a bit of minor soldering but not alot of circuit board soldering so I have a guy who's much better at it since he's owned a used stereo store/repair shop for over 20 years. He's been my 'mr. fixit' guy for the last 15+ years for all my stereo gear so I really trust him to not oops like I might. I know most of what's posted here is DIY without literally 'removing' the boards. But that's exactly what I'd like to do and bring the boards to this guy and let him do it for me. Sorry, he doesn't make house calls. *lol*

Basic with any electronics: Don't bend anything, be gentle and don't discharge any static onto circuit boards, got that part. I've built my own PC's from parts so I'm not afraid of circuit boards. Getting blasted across the room however . . . . does.

1. Big red wires look like high voltage lines coming off the D Board with the rubber caps on two of them. Hmmm? If I unplug the TV for a day is it safe yet? *lol* I've been zapped by 220v and didn't like it. I'm not looking for any cheap thrills.

2. Someone somewhere in this thread mentioned restoring CONFIG? This worries me. Anyone got any answers to that if 'unplugging' the board completely requires restoring CONFIG? Is this where I get in over my head?

Trying to compose a 'recap' here if I've got it right. First 2 parts on the "D" Board, last part on the "A" Board.

IC6501
IC8002
MCZ3001DB

Anyone have photos posted here for where the MCZ3001DB is?

My attitude is if there's a known defect? Might as well do them all while I've got it open and out of service.

Nutt

OIY! Trying to fathom all this in the middle of a home improvement project (painting) I'm seeing my own mistakes now. The MCZ3001DB's go in the D board circuit positions IC6501 or IC8002. I just ordered the MCZ3001DB's so that's done. I'm sure I've got some old computer parts like an old 14.4k modem or something that obsolete and useless now to practice soldering/desoldering on. Now if I can only find where those all got packed away to when I've emptied 2 entire rooms to paint. Finding those may take longer than the actual repair. *lol* Radio shack looks like they have the 18 pin sockets (part # 272-1992) so unless someone recommends against them as poor quality I'll get those there.

Is the A Board part the same part, a MCZ3001DB? Skimming through all the postings I can't seem to isolate the answer to that question. Just in case fixing IC6501 or IC8002 doesn't bring up other blink codes in the process.

Would it be worthwhile trying to get my set fired up and getting into the diagnostic screen to verify this problem? Or is the 6 or 7 blinks sufficient proof?

Being a holiday weekend I'm guessing most people are offline.

Nutt

I have the Service Manual 20MB (immediate download here), happens to be the same one for your set. The A board does not have any MCZ3001D on it. Just have to deal with D board. You do not have to remove the whole D board to service the set. If you remove and replace a similar IC from an old modem, that would be good practice. Radio Shack sockets are OK, I used them. Can't hurt to fire up TV, maybe you can get the screen up and watch TV a bit more, the sets tend to "heal" temporarily.

The Red wires are High Voltage, best avoid handling, but not impossible. Config settings don't need to be reset!

If you read this topic back on page 4, much information there. Here is a picture of my D board in repair position.

jdre,

Thanks for the link to the manual. Its looking like I may tackle this myself after a bit of practice with an old circuit board. I've still got a few questions like which side of the 'bridge connectors' that span the two bottom boards open up from? So I'm not trying to pop them open from the wrong side. I got a closer look at them yesterday under better lighting and its looking like they open from the left side when looking from the rear of the set?

The wiring harness plugs are easy enough since I've worked with those types of connectors before. But those bridge connectors I'm a bit unsure of and obviously don't want to break anything if I'm coming at it from the wrong direction. The clips holding the board in look easy enough to undo.

Thanks for the input!

Nutt

Bridge Connectors do open on the left They take a firm tug, I seem to remember that you pop one side loose then the other. The main chassis has 2 clips in the front corners that you carefully lift and tug chassis back a few inches, then you can get at the Philips screws that hold the D board in, and there are 2 catches on the left side of the D board. It's in there good!

OK with me, do you use Paint to do that? The manual is at a website that has many free manuals.

I can't believe how great this post has proven to be!

I googled the blinking standy button on my KV-34S510 and found this thread. I was dreading having to discard the best TV I have ever had or pay up to $400 to get it repaired.

Last night, I pulled the D-board and today I am taking it to a repair shop to have the ICs removed and the sockets installed because my soldering skills suck.

The hardest part in removing the board for me was removing to the 4 bridge connectors that attach the D-board to the board on the opposite side of the TV.

The thin wires on the big transformer looking thing were tough but I just had to get over the fear of breaking something and really pull hard.

Thanks to everyone for their input.

Add another one to the success pile, my KV34XBR800. Took D-board out, soldered IC8002 in place, and there it is, easy as pie. Thanks for the guides guys

Picked up my D-board from the repair shop with the sockets and IC's installed. It took less than 10 minutes to reinstall the board. Everything works great.

I may have overpaid to have a tech do my soldering but I just didn't trust my rusty skills. All I know is that my TV is alive again!

Congratulations, Vorteched and Subbie I bet the repair shop took note of which chips those were for "reference"

The tech told me he didn't think it was the IC's as he was handing my board back to me. I'll have to call him and let him know that the internet was right

Hi,

New user here. Just wanted to say how great it is to have a resource like this. My Sony KV-32HS500 won't power on, so I've followed other users' path of removing the D board and soldering down 18 pin DIP sockets for the two MCZ3001D chips. Now I'm just waiting for my order from TSM to come in. I ordered online and selected UPS 2 day air. I haven't seen any correspondence from them regarding shipment. Should I be worried? For those of you who ordered from there, did you get your parts quickly?

I used bdent.com, good service there. Did your parts arrive yet?

AnalogDesigner,

I ordered my parts from the same place, TSM. I ordered online late on Saturday and they were here on Wednesday. I went with UPS Ground shipping. So no problems here with their service.

Nutt

I know many people here haven't 'completely' removed their boards to do these repairs but some have. The largest red wire coming off the FBT and running to the top of the tube. Does it simply take a firm tug to pull that wire free at the FBT? I'd really prefer to disconnect mine entirely to work on it.

Nutt