You have a Sony that won't power on and the standby light blinks... Help and suggesti - Page 15

Originally Posted by Juancho1

I received my two IC chips about an hour ago and rushed home to finish my repair. Two days ago, I decided to begin taking apart my t.v. to get a head start on my repair. I removed the rear cover and contemplated removing the entire D-board to simplify my repair. I decided it wasn't feasible to do this because I didn't want to start yanking large red wires out I didn't want to put my t.v. face down and cut plastic pieces off the bottom, so, I decided to remove the eight screws that hold the D-board in place and prop it up to give me easier access to the solder points underneath. I searched the TSM website for the notorious chips of death and read a note that recommended I also replace two large capacitors (C6503 and C6590) and two resistors (EY092 and EY095) to prevent the problem from returning. So, I bought the capacitors, resistors, and IC sockets. My wife bought the IC chips off ebay. I received the parts from TSM yesterday and began the laborious task of replacing the capacitors and resistors. I also took out the IC's and soldered the sockets in their place. That took me about 3 hours to do and, after I was done, put the D-board back the way it was before. Fast-forward to today and the first thing I did when I got home was to put my anti-static wrist strap on and put those IC's in their sockets. Some cursing and 10 minutes later and I can proudly say my t.v. works again!! It was probably the best $29 I've ever spent considering I got the t.v. for free... Some lessons learned about this experience:

1) Be patient. I found myself trying to rush, which isn't a good thing when trying to fix something.

2) Make sure you have quality tools on hand. I labored through this process with a semi-functioning solder extractor.

3) Solder wick is a must! Especially if replacing large components.

All in all, it was a fun experience and an even better feeling when you see the fruits of your labor in the form of an fully-functioning HDTV! I knew that military training I received in electronics would come in handy some day!

Originally Posted by jdre


Robert F: prebending the legs vertically is a good idea, to avoid forcing the chip or bending it wrong.

Originally Posted by dilla


7. Next disconnect the large red wire that is connected to the CRT tube glass. Be careful-- lift the rubber flap and using thumb an another finger rotate the flap and connector away/off. I was told that I could discharge the voltage by touching the metal clips under the flap to the metal surrounding the fly back on the D-board; this is to ground.

8. There are two more wires one red and one white that have to be disconnected leading from the Fly back up to a board connected to the back of the CRT tube. I recommend cutting both of these. I tried removing the white one and the clip holding it broke off. The wire in both of these are solid and not strand or braided, so I assumed the metal clip was splitting the signal or circuit. To make the repair I desoldered the clip and soldered a plain wire to make the bridge and resoldered the white wire to it later.

Originally Posted by jdre

White wire with red tip connects to CN9009 along the bottom edge of the CX or C board. Did it pull off the red part, if so, make sure you can get the wire connected, or no picture, hope you already fixed it.

Originally Posted by cajieboy

Thanks for your response. The red tip was still attached to the white wire. After a lot of research on the net and some help, I did find out that this is the G2 Wire, and goes in the C-Board at CN9009. Figuring out how to re-attatch it, I removed the red tip, exposing the one wire. I had a choice of two holes to re-solder to. One hole that is on the left as you're facing the C-Board from the back had no solder. The hole on the right had solder, so I chose this one. I de-soldered it clearing the hole, threaded the stripped white wire in and soldered it in place. The length of that wire does not allow it to any further over.

I then buttoned everything back up, turned on the TV, no go. I heard a click, got 3 red blinking lights, and nothing. No picture, not anything. Very disappointing. Right now, I'm at a standstill. Did I connect that white G2 wire properly? Could that be what's wrong?

Originally Posted by cajieboy

Hi Robert, thanks for your help. The 3 red blinks is a one time deal. It only happens when you push the power button on the remote. There is a click, but not the whump you normally hear when the TV's degaussing at start, then the 3 red blinking sequence, and then nothing. No pic, not anything.

I have unplugged all connections I touched during my IC repair, and re-plugged them carefully, etc. One thing I'm unsure of is that G2 white wire connection. This is my concern and it may not even matter. On the end was a little red connector tip that apparently had 2 little prongs. When I took it off, there was only one wire there, so I chose to solder it to the right hole that had solder on it, leaving the other hole blank. When I saw a pic on the internet, both of those little prongs were in their holes there on the C-Board. I can't help wondering if I did this G2 wire connection properly. Do you have schematics, etc. on this part?

Originally Posted by RobertF

Unfortunately, I don't have any additional information on that part. Perhaps one the service technicians that are also forum members could help out.

I'd suggest swapping the wire to the other possible location but I'd worry that might short something out.

Unless something was damaged during the repair, you would think that you could at least get back to your original 6/7 blink pattern.

Did you search for possible causes of the non-repeating three blink sequence?

Try a search on Agoraquest's "Television Troubleshooting" forum also.

Originally Posted by jdre

Cajieboy:
3 non-repeating blinks is what my set did with a few pins not properly connected from the PC board to the IC socket. Traces were torn. Also check chips are in the socket fully and no pins missed the holes. After fixing that, I'm back to the 6 blinks, repeating.

Your CN9009 white wire you have it in right. If it's soldered in the white area within that oval mark CN9009 2 pins it's fine.

Originally Posted by jdre

I fixed the traces with small wire, clipped off spare resistors. Also, did you make sure the ICs were positioned with the notch to the left toward the dots (when looking from rear of TV). Like in this image: Also, bending one pin over would shot it down. Easiest to trace circuits with ohmmeter, make sure all is connected.

Originally Posted by cajieboy

...... I think something went wrong w/my first attempt, that's for sure. Not quite ready yet to call in a real Sony Tech!...

Originally Posted by RobertF

Another possibility is that you've done everything perfectly but the problem is not related to the MCZ3001D ICs.

Also, does your 40XBR800 have a third MCZ3001D IC located on the A-Board? My KV-36XBR400's A-Board has this IC and a Sony repair tech once told me that it can also cause power up problems. He also said that third IC was often overlooked in repair attempts.

Originally Posted by cajieboy

I had forgotten about that 3rd IC on the A-Board. What bothers me is that now I the 3-blinking-light-then-off problem, rather than a 6-7 continous blinking light problem. That has me scratching my head and concluding it must be something I did regarding the two IC's I replaced. What do you think?

Originally Posted by jdre

40XBR800 hasn't got the A board MCZ3001D chip, it shares the same manual as my set. Have a nice vacation!

Originally Posted by lcaillo

I just don't get why anyone would butcher the chassis frame when the board can be removed so easily and turned.