You have a Sony that won't power on and the standby light blinks... Help and suggesti - Page 16

Thanks Jdr, those are darn good pics. If you're able, could you please take some pics of the CN9009 connections from the Flyback to the C-Board? I'm definitely getting out my magnifying glass to check all traces next time I go for Round 2 on my 40XBR fix. Exactly how did you clean the copper trace?

I cleaned the trace with the tip of my multimeter, an X-acto knife would work, just scrape gently to remove the green insulated coating. Here's some shots of CN9009 with the thin white wire:

Mark,

There's no need to apologize as some Sony models do, in fact, have the third MCZ3001D IC on the A-Board.

My KV-36XBR400 has one and I planned on replacing it if replacing the two D-Board ICs didn't fix the power up problem. Fortunately I didn't need to do that.

I enjoy posting here, glad to help!

Me too, and this is a great thread. Thanks for posting those excellent pics on the N9009 connection. Great camera & lens. What kind is it? I noticed there was solder on that hole on the left. Right now, I only re-soldered the white wire in the right hole. I think I'll try to do something about that when I go for Round 2 on my fix.

It's a Kodak C743, not a high end camera, but it focuses very close! If it's connected to the right hole within the oval outline, it's all the same board trace, should be OK, wouldn't hurt to get it back as built, though.

Any luck yet?

Jdre, I assume you're referring to me. I just returned home tonight about 8:00pm after we drove for 2 days from Louisiana. Wahoooo Mardi Gras!!!...and I didn't stick around for the final weekend celebrations & Fat Tuesday. That's OK because I've been to that rodeo many times before. Getting a bit settled at home, and right now enjoying #4 Florida Sunshine Screwdriver. I plan to tackle Round #2 DIY fix in a day or two. I've learnd not to rush these things, and will post results afterwards...the good...the bad...and the ugly!

I had bought a few ICs(MCZ3001DB) to fix a SONY kv-32hs420
model a few months back. I had great sucess and the set is still working!

I have a friend who has a different model(SONY kv-32s66) but is doing a similar problem-
set has no picture with standby blinking but sound still works.

I am searching the bulletin boards for advice. I am also going to go look at the set to try and get some information from the board and the chips inside.

Is it the same power control chipset problem on this set? Is there anything else I should check?

I am in the homework stages right now. Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks, Cathy

jdre & anyone else that can help. The white wire going from the Flyback to the C-Board is really too short. What is the absolute best way to splice another wire to this white wire that will be secure and not cause a short? Thanks.

I would like to say, "thank-you" to all whom have contributed to this post. My 36XBR800 started giving me problems about three months ago. When I would turn the set off it would require several attempts to turn it back on. When this would happen I would get 6 blinking lights. This went on for a while then it would not turn on at all. Made the famous "whumpf" sound followed by a few clicks then 6 blinking lights. A few days later I pushed the on button and the picture came alive. I kept the TV on for a couple of months- then we had a power outage to our home. Could not get the TV back on. Found this post. Ordered the MCZ3001D chips, soldering iron, braid for desoldering. Took first chip out and installed new one. No luck. Still 6 blinks. Cut plastic bracket over 2nd chip. Replaced it. Still no luck. Went back to first chip and found two piss poor solders. Re-did those two and voila a beautiful picture. Thanks to all again. Amateur TV repairman....

cajieboy: To avoid splicing, can you get any slack at all, if you untangle the white wire from the other wires? I'd use solder and put shrink tubing over the splice, keep it away from other wires.

adreman11: Congratulations, and welcome to AVS forum! Those solder joints take practice.

ceramicat: That 32S66 is completely different inside, a good starting point will be the service manual, try www.servicemanuals.net, google for that set's problem, refer to chassis number as well.

Well i have had no such luck. I have a 910. I was getting 2 blinks for over a year the set was still working fine. Last week 6 blinks and i was having trouble turning the set on. ordered the chips had a friend who is a tech solder the 2 ic's in and now I get absolutly nothing. Its seem the tv is getting no power. We did the repair with the D board in place. The only thing i disconnected was the video board. I doubled and triple checked everything and for the life of me cant figure it out. Looks like I am on my way to best buy. I dread going into there.

Look for a cut trace, if you had to cut the plastic frame. Also, verify each pin of each chip is really connected (use ohm meter) and the notches are to the left. Recheck soldering. Check fuse on AZ board near power cord. Refer to prior pages in this forum, pictures of my similar set boards. Schematic is here (960 is similar to 910 enough to check those IC circuits) : Sony XBR960 free schematic, save a copy after it opens up. Best Buy has some nice sets, but maybe you can save yours. Hope you succeed!

That's all great advice.

Also, if you disconnected any connectors during the repair, disconnect and reconnect all of those. Check for connectors that you might have missed. (That was the problem on a recent report over on Agoraquest.)

If you used sockets and you have spare ICs, try swapping out ICs.

Good Luck!

Bob

I would like to extend a big thank you to all who posted in this thread. I just finished fixing my Sony kv34hs510. I bought the MCZ3001DB and replaces both ICs.
I used a 30 watt iron instead of my 15 for the desoldering. I used desoldering wick and just placed the wick on top of the contact and held the iron on that moving it around a tiny bit. If it looks like there is still a little solder on the IC leg dont worry about being perfect. With your fingernail move the IC leg a little and it should come off. After soldering in the new IC I took a razorblade and went in between the contacts to make sure none were shorted. I do have a little background soldering small ic's but anyone can do this with patience. I used needle nose pliers to get the old IC out and used my hand to put the new ones in. Started right up and now am sitting in front of my TV with a big smile on my face, its been over a month with no (hd)TV. THANKS, my TV has never looked better

Congratulations on your successful repair!

And thanks for sharing the details of your repair.

How did you access the ICs? Did you rotate the D-Board up into the service position?

My KV40XBR800 has the dreaded 6 blinks and, after being motivated by all the great posts I have read, I am going to take my D board to a shop to have the ICs replaced. While removing the D board I was gearing up to pull the white G2 wire from the FBT when it suddenly popped off the CX board at the other end!

I found the connector and it looks like I have broken off a thin U shaped connector that is soldered on to the CX board. From other posts it looks like you can remove the red tip on the G2 wire and solder the wire right onto the board (after desoldering the old connector). As you face the back of the CX board there are two holes inside an area marked with the same shape as the red connector. Which one do you solder to, left or right?

Either one, it's 1 wire 2 pins, on the same trace, check with your ohm meter. Good luck with your repair!

Geez, on My KV-40XBR800, this looks like exactly what happened to me. theres been no hurry on my end, and tonight I'm having a few screwdrivers to my favorite music w/Grado phones. I went down to to the local Home Depot and bought some 22AWG for a splicing job, but the wire "looks" smaller. I'm told it's the insulation that is the difference. As I've got the white flyback wire securely soldered to its original contact then this makes me skeptical that this is the root of of my 3 red blinking problem. I may have bought all this wire spicing stuff for nill. I've been mulling it over, and am not fully decided.

Hello Robert, Thanks again for the helpful posts bud. I did just swing the board up so I could see the underbelly. I disconnected all the plugs on d board, the black piano wire looking connections(4) were a pain, also unscrewed/disconnected the input panel for easier access(maybe not necessary). There was enough room to solder by just propping it up over itself.

Thanks jdre! My parts are on the way. I hope I will be reporting another success story.

My mom has a KV-30HS420 and this morning it got the 7 blinks of death!
We called Sony and they said it was "the power supply" so did the local authorized Sony guy here in Baton Rouge, LA.

The Sony repairmen said it would be $250 to $300 to fix it and my mom
decided to give up and get a new one...

Personally, I think it is kind of crazy since the picture quality is excellent on the TV. A new LCD of the same size is gonna be at least $450 to $500(from what I saw at Best Buy here, my mom is not the type to get a better deal off of internet).

That said, I am gonna keep the old dead box and attempt to fix it myself by ordering 2 MCZ3001DB ic's for $11.98 from Tri-State Module and attempting to desolder the old ones and solder them on the "D-Board"....

Keep in mind, I am 100 percent neophyte on this....
I will let yall know what happens (assuming I dont get killed by the stored energy in the capacitors)!

Any advice please post it...
Thank You sirs....


p.s. The TV is right around 4 years old tops, what is the estimated lifespan of the crt? Up until this morning it looked excellent!

Discorob3, I'd read Page 4 of this long topic, also page 13,14,15,16, to get familiar, if you haven't already. I would avoid cutting the support if possible. You can get the service manual here KV30HS420. If the TV sits a few days, the capacitors will drain (mine did). Make sure you have a VOM (voltmeter) and solder braid, 15-30 watt solder iron with smaller tip, .050" or .031" 60/40 electronic solder. RadioShack has that equipment. Use 18 pin DIP sockets available at RadioShack. If you are careful, it should power right on. Often, a minor mistake keeps it from working. Good luck, hope to hear how well it's working soon!

PS: Make sure Mom gets a good set to pass down (Plasma?)

mogobomips: Hope so, just work carefully, you should succeed.

cajieboy: You will have to look at those ICs again, soldering underneath. Hope it works! Grados are nice headphones..

Hi, guys . I have read many posts from the topic and decided to ask someone for help. So, I have Sony KV - 30HS510 with DA-4 chassis, it worked great before but one day just stopped turning on every time when I switched it on... this was strange... I plugged the cable off, waited a minute and after that it started just normal. This problem started to appear more and more often. So I decided to do something, after an inspection I found the problem - +5 volt stabilizer. OK I fixed that but after a month the poor thing started with a new strange behavior. Now, when I turn on the television the picture starts from white-yellow with white declined stripes and fast becomes white to super-white and after a second turns off - I suppose this is a protection. So if anyone can guide me .. or suggest something... Is it possible the problem to be IC8002 or IC6501 (MCZ3001D).......I will appreciate that

Not MCZ3001D this time. I'd begin troubleshooting at the CRT board. It's acting like you have no voltage bias on the CRT cathodes, which leaves them full on, till the TV shuts off in protection. You will need KV32HS500 schematic. Could be loss of power to video output ICs, short in an IC, G2 voltage too high (comes from flyback transformer).

Thank you, jdre! Well, this suggestion will help, I guess. I'm not a professional in this field and I will be happy with more suggestions and more details if someone can provide.. thank you one more time for the great forum and for your help..

Thanks, I'll do just that and see if it works. I'm thinking my wire splice idea was all wet. I guess I was looking for an excuse not to fool around w/that D-Board again.

My Grados are the SR325's, and I've got 2 matching pair thinking my wife might like to join me in music appreciation. She has never used the other pair. I recently replaced the ear pads from Grado and now they're good as new.