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You have a Sony that won't power on and the standby light blinks... Help and suggesti - Page 4

post #91 of 1688
3/21/08 at 6:25pm
Hi guys. I've just recently been having this problem and didn't know what was going on until I noticed the 7 flashing lights and looked it up here. Thank goodness for AVSforum!

I've ordered the replacement IC's (best deal I found was about £30 for 12 including shipping from the US) and I'm going to ask my Dad to fit them for me as I'm a) rather nervous around the insides of TV's and he used to be a TV engineer b) not very good at soldering. Unfortunately, he's just gone on holiday for 6 days and I'll probably have to wait a while for the IC's to arrive. The TV was particularly hard to get going this morning so I'm tempted to leave it on until I can fix it but that's hardly good for my electric bill!

What I wanted to ask about was the fact that it seems to have changed to 6 flashing lights now and I was wondering if going from 7 to 6 helps to narrow down the problem and give any pointers as to which chip might be the best one to start with. I expect not and I'm in the same boat as everyone else, so I'll just have to pick one and see if I get lucky but I thought it worth asking.
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post #92 of 1688
3/25/08 at 4:00pm
It just gets wierder all the time!!! My Sony 40" XBR, a true monster weighing in at about 300 pounds, was given up for dead. I tried replacing the IC's, no go there, may have done more damage than good. So, I'm about to hire some of my buddies to give me a hand hauling it out of here, give Sony parts a call, get some rep in Manila, give them the part #, "Sure, we've got it", it being the complete D board assembly. I asked a few times, verifying the part #A-1346-948-A, even with the slight language problem they're sure they have it in stock, supposed to be here on Thursday, I'll keep you posted, will be amazed if it actually shows................probably shouldn't have typed that........
Also, any suggestions as to how one gets the larger red wire that runs to the CRT out of the Flyback, doesn't seem to want to budge????????

Aloha and okolemaluna from Maui
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post #93 of 1688
4/1/08 at 6:56pm
New/rebuilt D board for my 40XBR700 just showed up, took longer to put the rear cover back on the TV than it did to install the new board. Had kind of forgotten what a great display these sets have.

Aloha from Maui
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post #94 of 1688
4/1/08 at 7:04pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by holonalu View Post

New/rebuilt D board for my 40XBR700 just showed up, took longer to put the rear cover back on the TV than it did to install the new board. Had kind of forgotten what a great display these sets have.

Aloha from Maui

Wow! Congratulations!

Bob
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post #95 of 1688
4/1/08 at 10:47pm
Bob,
Wish I had been a little more patient with the de-soldering on the original D board, may have been able to salvage it. The great thing about the new D board is that the FBT connectors are already in place, I really don't think the CRT connector to the FBT will come out without the use of a sledgeomatic, it appears to have a spring connector that locks it into place, Anyways, for 276 bucks for the new D board, a few minutes getting it installed, and meeting some great folks who know their sh#t, I'm a lucky guy. Thanks to all of you for the advice and encouragemant, we now have an empty spot in the landfill here on Maui..

Aloha and mahalo
And yea, first trip to RS I'm getting a surge protector, the best they've got
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post #96 of 1688
4/4/08 at 11:51pm
Hello everyone! I have a KV-36HS500. I love this set! Well a couple days ago, it decided not to turn on anymore. I was getting the 6 blinking standbye lights. After doing lots of research and finding a ton of good information in this thread I attempted to repair it myself.

I replaced both IC6501 and IC8002 on the D board. I also used 18-pin sockets and was very careful. I was feeling pretty good about it after I installed them and put the tv back together. A bit more detail, I had the set face down while I pulled the chassis out and did the work with the board vertical. I also clipped that piece of plastic away for easier access to the underside of one of the IC's. Everything went smooth.

Ok, so now it's still not working. Now I get 3 flashing standbye lights. I turn the tv on, the standbye light flashes 3 times and then the tv shuts off. I took her apart again and looked over my work again and rechecked all the connections. Everything looked ok and I put it back together but still no luck, same problem.

I've read that 3 lights = OVP or over voltage protection, not sure how to fix that one yet. Any Ideas? I'm stuck. Help!
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post #97 of 1688
4/5/08 at 12:31am
Quote:
Originally Posted by mysonybroke View Post

Hello everyone! I have a KV-36HS500. I love this set! Well a couple days ago, it decided not to turn on anymore. I was getting the 6 blinking standbye lights. After doing lots of research and finding a ton of good information in this thread I attempted to repair it myself.

I replaced both IC6501 and IC8002 on the D board. I also used 18-pin sockets and was very careful. I was feeling pretty good about it after I installed them and put the tv back together. A bit more detail, I had the set face down while I pulled the chassis out and did the work with the board vertical. I also clipped that piece of plastic away for easier access to the underside of one of the IC's. Everything went smooth.

Ok, so now it's still not working. Now I get 3 flashing standbye lights. I turn the tv on, the standbye light flashes 3 times and then the tv shuts off. I took her apart again and looked over my work again and rechecked all the connections. Everything looked ok and I put it back together but still no luck, same problem.

I've read that 3 lights = OVP or over voltage protection, not sure how to fix that one yet. Any Ideas? I'm stuck. Help!

As a first step, I would re-heat/re-flow the solder on both of the 18 pin sockets. A faulty solder connection can look fine visually. To avoid damage to the MCZ3001D ICs, you might just want to remove those while you complete that.

And here are some additional suggestions.

Did you disconnect any of the D-Board connectors during your repair? If so, you might want to disconnect and reconnect those.

Are you sure that the ICs are fully seated within the sockets? Did you double-check the orientation?

Do you have any spare ICs? If so, you might want to swap those with the ones you have already installed in case you have a defective IC.

Is there any chance that you lifted any of the circuit board trace material during the repair? If so, you can test for continuity with a multimeter.

Good luck!

Bob
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post #98 of 1688
4/5/08 at 12:54am
I'ld just get the new D board, and really don't see how you can do any decent soldering, or, as Bob pointed out, desoldering, with the D board still in place. I can get that D board out in around 2 minutes, (don't mean to brag!!) all the connectors, on the 40XBR700, are not interchangeable, as in they can only plug in one way into one spot. Perhaps your flyback transformer is dead........anyways, for 276 bucks, with shipping to Hawaii, I consider it to be a bargain, am watching it as I type...... And Bob's da bestest, as is this website!!!

Aloha and best of luck!!!!!!!!!!
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post #99 of 1688
4/5/08 at 4:42pm
[quote=RobertF;13564316]As a first step, I would re-heat/re-flow the solder on both of the 18 pin sockets. A faulty solder connection can look fine visually. To avoid damage to the MCZ3001D ICs, you might just want to remove those while you complete that.


Did you disconnect any of the D-Board connectors during your repair? If so, you might want to disconnect and reconnect those.

-I'm going to take it apart one more time and unplug everything I unhooked again and blow everything out with compressed air.

Are you sure that the ICs are fully seated within the sockets? Did you double-check the orientation?

-I'm sure they were fully seated and the orientation was correct.

Do you have any spare ICs? If so, you might want to swap those with the ones you have already installed in case you have a defective IC.

-I thought of this but I only ordered the 2 IC's, I knew after I ordered them that I should've got more.

Is there any chance that you lifted any of the circuit board trace material during the repair? If so, you can test for continuity with a multimeter.

-I don't think I did, the job went well. I was able to desolder with the braid very easily, I popped the old chips out with no issues within 10 minutes. I thought of removing the D board but it just wasn't an issue for me to access these chips. There was that piece of bracket plastic in the way but I cut that away and it was no problem working on either chip.

Good luck!

-Thanks for the fast response! I'm going to take it apart again soon and give it a hard look. It just makes me wonder what is going on because I'm not getting the previous 6 blinking lights. I guess I could put the old chips back in and see what it does. That would tell me if I did anything wrong I suppose if it goes back to flashing 6 times instead of the 3 flash/shut off. I will post back when I find out more. I don't want to jump the gun and order a new D board if that isn't even the problem ya know. I'd hate to give this thing up but I'm not done trying yet. Thanks again for the suggestions.
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post #100 of 1688
4/5/08 at 6:17pm
[quote=mysonybroke;13568506]
Quote:
Originally Posted by RobertF View Post

As a first step, I would re-heat/re-flow the solder on both of the 18 pin sockets. A faulty solder connection can look fine visually. To avoid damage to the MCZ3001D ICs, you might just want to remove those while you complete that.


Did you disconnect any of the D-Board connectors during your repair? If so, you might want to disconnect and reconnect those.

-I'm going to take it apart one more time and unplug everything I unhooked again and blow everything out with compressed air.

Are you sure that the ICs are fully seated within the sockets? Did you double-check the orientation?

-I'm sure they were fully seated and the orientation was correct.

Do you have any spare ICs? If so, you might want to swap those with the ones you have already installed in case you have a defective IC.

-I thought of this but I only ordered the 2 IC's, I knew after I ordered them that I should've got more.

Is there any chance that you lifted any of the circuit board trace material during the repair? If so, you can test for continuity with a multimeter.

-I don't think I did, the job went well. I was able to desolder with the braid very easily, I popped the old chips out with no issues within 10 minutes. I thought of removing the D board but it just wasn't an issue for me to access these chips. There was that piece of bracket plastic in the way but I cut that away and it was no problem working on either chip.

Good luck!

-Thanks for the fast response! I'm going to take it apart again soon and give it a hard look. It just makes me wonder what is going on because I'm not getting the previous 6 blinking lights. I guess I could put the old chips back in and see what it does. That would tell me if I did anything wrong I suppose if it goes back to flashing 6 times instead of the 3 flash/shut off. I will post back when I find out more. I don't want to jump the gun and order a new D board if that isn't even the problem ya know. I'd hate to give this thing up but I'm not done trying yet. Thanks again for the suggestions.

I think installing the old ICs is a good diagnostic idea. As long as nothing went wrong during the repair, you should be able to get back to the 6 blink pattern.

Another thing to try is to shine a bright light behind the D-Board to see if you can see any light through the newly soldered connections. This works best in a darkened room.

Good luck!

Bob
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post #101 of 1688
4/16/08 at 9:50am
I'm delighted to report that my TV's working again.

We decided to replace both IC8002 and IC6501 (after fitting sockets) before testing it, as whilst it would perhaps have been of some interest to see if we got lucky and picked the dodgy chip first time, we didn't really want to end up changing the other one with juice lingering in the set.

I found the hinging mechanism somewhat confusing, as I was expecting it to hinge whilst still attached to the chassis, so it was a bit disturbing when the board assembly just kept coming but it wasn't a major problem and we ended up just propping it up resting against the left speaker (we removed the right speaker as it severely obstructed the area we needed to work in).

We couldn't work out how on earth other people had managed to cut the IC legs before desoldering them as there simply doesn't seem to be enough room to get any tools in there but the desoldering, with a combination of desolder pump and desoldering braid, went fairly smoothly. To remove IC6501 and install the replacement socket, we decided to remove some of the screws holding down the D board, enabling us to slip something between the board and the plastic, which held them apart enough to give us room to work.

Gave the set a good vacuum whilst the back was off as well, as I'm sure all that dust can't be good for it

Thanks to everyone here who gave advice or suggestions, for helping me to save my set.
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post #102 of 1688
4/16/08 at 10:20am
doveman,

Congratulations on your successful repair! Good job!

Also, the legs can be cut if you use a small shear cutter.

I used an $4.99 Xcelite 170M from my local Fry's Electronics and that worked fine. Here's what it looks like:

http://www.remelectronics.com/Showca...nShowcaseID=15

This tool needs to be small so that you can reach the legs without being blocked by the surrounding components on the board. I actually slid the rubber handles off the tool to allow for even easier access in some of the tighter spots.

Bob
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post #103 of 1688
4/18/08 at 7:34am
Hello I have a xbr910. The red light is blinking twice every couple of seconds for about 2 months now. the set still works. I have done a search not to much about 2 blinks. anyone know what IC's need to be replaced. should i wait for the set to stop working or risk really messing things up if the fix doesn't work. also the set doesn't seem to be as sharp as it once was since this started happening or is that just my imagination.
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post #104 of 1688
4/18/08 at 8:39am
Quote:
Originally Posted by pcp33 View Post

Hello I have a xbr910. The red light is blinking twice every couple of seconds for about 2 months now. the set still works. I have done a search not to much about 2 blinks. anyone know what IC's need to be replaced. should i wait for the set to stop working or risk really messing things up if the fix doesn't work. also the set doesn't seem to be as sharp as it once was since this started happening or is that just my imagination.

I wouldn't worry about it until it stops working.

But I think you might be able to access the internal diagnostic menu to see if there's a fault code recorded. Search the forum for how to do that.

Also, did you try unplugging the TV overnight? Sometimes that can reset the internal electronics.

Bob
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post #105 of 1688
4/23/08 at 1:10pm
Thread Starter 
Hi everyone
I thought I would check in on this forum thread I started to see how its going.
I am very happy to see this is helping most (sorry for those with problems not solved). Also, an update to mine... Still working great

Special thanks to Robert
Thanks to everyone for supporting AVS forums, as this is the best place for this kind of help!


PS: I also had my TV calibrated (ISF) and it looks great now (better then when I bought it). FYI... It didn't cost an arm and a leg with who I used and he took care of everything (geo., grayscale, and on all inputs). He will even travel a good distance from home to do it (he drove around 70 miles to me, 1 way).



Thanks again all
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post #106 of 1688
4/28/08 at 9:07am
I have a KV36XBR400 and have the dreaded 7 blinking lights.... I also have had 4 blinking lights.

Well, I found this on the web after some searching.

Hope it helps someone.

http: //www.eserviceinfo.com/downloadsm/1892/Sony_DX-1A.html

Sean Riley
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post #107 of 1688
5/5/08 at 4:43pm
Sony Model# KV-27HS420 with the dreaded 6 blink error code.

I replaced both ICs (MCZ3001DB) and the set is good as new.

I also have Sony Model# KV-36XBR800 that recently developed the same issue.

Looks like round two with a soldering iron.

Thanks to the great info. in this thread I am saving a ton of cash doing the work myself.

Easy repair and I get to keep the sets for awhile longer until I decide to pull the trigger on both and get LCD replacements...
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post #108 of 1688
5/6/08 at 3:54am
First and foremost, a big "Thank you" to Mark Goetz for kindly responding to my email about my TV problem. I followed his instructions and read every post in this thread. Mark, I really appreciate your prompt response.

I am happy to report that I fixed my Sony KV-34XBR800. It was having difficulty powering up after 5 years of daily use. If I left it alone for a few days, it would still turn on fine, but the "leave alone" time period soon got longer and longer. I believe it had 6 or 7 blinks going on.
It turns out that only (1) IC was bad--the one at the IC8002 location.
I read in the posts that some folks regretted not photographing their repair, so I figured it was the least I could do to give back to this great forum. I went overboard with MS Paint on purpose, so you can poke fun at the photos all you want. I hope the photos aren't too big.

Parts: (2) 18-pin IC Sockets from all electronics for .30 each, plus $7.00 shipping = $7.60
(2) MCZ3001DB Shindengen IC's from tristate module for $5.99 each, plus $2.25 shipping = $14.23
Total cost: $21.83

"Step 1" shows how easy it was to shift the heavy TV sideways, while remaining on it's stand, to remove the screws and cover. Arrow points at general location for those troublesome "MCZ" IC's.

"Step 2" shows the dusty identified chips. The dust was not nearly as bad as I thought it might be.

"Step 3" shows close-up of chips.

"Step 4" shows a way to slide the TV over and access the underside without lifting the TV.

"Step 5" shows target zone.

"Step 6" shows view of target zone from underneath.

"Step 7" shows Dremel extension with cutting attachment. This made cutting through the plastic bracket a snap. The cutting wheel's diameter is not wide enough to go through the entire width of the bracket, but that won't matter.

"Step 8" shows Charlie Brown's shirt-colored cutting zones, with both IC's identified underneath.

"Step 9" shows pliers to easily snap off the bracket, as not much plastic remained to secure it.

"Step 10" shows exposed circuit board.

"Step 11" shows opposite side of cutaway plastic bracket to show that it's not solid.

"Step 12" shows mirror view to help check your desoldering job. Using a Radio Shack desoldering bulb made this part really easy.

"Steps 13 and 14" show a chip puller in use for removing and replacing it with the new 6501 chip first. When the TV didn't power up, I replaced the old 6501 and repeated the same thing with the 8002. Goooooooal!!!

Dave - 1
Landfill - zero
LL
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LL
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post #109 of 1688
5/6/08 at 3:56am
photos 6-10
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post #110 of 1688
5/6/08 at 3:58am
photos 11-14
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post #111 of 1688
5/6/08 at 4:12am
I forgot to mention that I first soldered the IC sockets in place and that soldering upside down was challenging, but not impossible. I can see where turning the TV on it's face would really help.
I could have saved time by trying IC8002 first and then I wouldn't have had to cut away any plastic, but now there are 2 IC sockets in place and I've got an extra MCZ3001DB for any needed replacement in the future. With sockets installed, it should be a quick and easy job. I used a Weller WTCPT soldering iron and some no-clean solder for the job.
Note: Without the aid of that chip puller, I would have had real difficulty removing the original chips. Even with the TV set unplugged, it's like a real life game of Milton Bradley's Operation.
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post #112 of 1688
5/6/08 at 4:12pm
Thread Starter 
You are very welcome Dave
Congrats on the successful repair.. Yes, it is good to hear another one of these fine TVs saved from landfill

One thing I will say. You are a brave man for balancing that TV like that! I would be afraid it end up on me Kidding aside. Thanks for the good pics too.

Thanks again to this site and everyone here
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post #113 of 1688
5/6/08 at 4:22pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aluvial View Post

I have a KV36XBR400 and have the dreaded 7 blinking lights.... I also have had 4 blinking lights.

Well, I found this on the web after some searching.

Hope it helps someone.

http: //www.eserviceinfo.com/downloadsm/1892/Sony_DX-1A.html

Sean Riley

Thanks for the info Aluvial
and
Congrats net_synapse for another success
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post #114 of 1688
5/6/08 at 4:58pm
Thread Starter 
I also have recently got the complete service manual for the 500 and 800 series pdf form. Kinda late for my repair, but here is what the blinks stand for......
----------------------------------------------------------------------
When an error occurs, the STANDBY/TIMER LED will flash a set number of times to indicate the possible cause of the problem. If there is more than
one error, the LED will identify the first of the problem areas.

Power does not turn on Does not light _______
? Power cord is not plugged in.
? Fuse is burned out (F501). (A Board)
Power does not come on.
No power is supplied to the TV.
AC Power supply is faulty.
+B Overcurrent (OCP)* 2 times
? H.OUT (Q5030) is shorted. (D Board)
? +B PWM (Q5003) is shorted. (D Board)
Power does not come on.
Load on power line shorted.
Low +B Overvoltage (OVP) 3 times
? IC6505 is faulty. (D Board)
Has entered standby mode.
Vertical Deflection Stopped 4 times
? 15V is not supplied. (D Board)
IC5004 is faulty. (D Board)
Has entered standby mode after Horizontal raster.
Vertical deflection pulse is stopped.
Power line is shorted or power
supply is stopped.
White Balance Failure (not balanced) 5 times
? Video OUT (IC9001-IC9003) is faulty. (CH, CX Board)
? CRT drive (IC2801) is faulty. (B Board)
? G2 is improperly adjusted.**
No raster is generated.
CRT cathode current detection reference pulse output is small.
LOW +B OCP/OVP (overcurrent/overvoltage)*** 6 times
? +5 line is overloaded. (A, B, M Boards)
? +5 line is shorted. (A, B, M Boards)
IC504 is faulty. (A Board)
No picture
Horizontal Deflection Stopped 7 times
No picture

* If a +B overcurrent is detected, stoppage of the vertical deflection is detected simultaneously. The symptom that is diagnosed first by the
microcontroller is displayed on the screen.
** Refer to Screen (G2) in Section 2-5 of this manual.
*** If STANDBY/STEREO LED flashes six (6) times, unplug the unit and wait 10 seconds before performing the adjustment.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
This is the way it is stated in the manual, of course we know 6 or 7 blinks is one of those trouble ICs. I just stated this for someones reference.

Also, here is some more info for the built in self-diagnostic....
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Self-Diagnostic Screen Display
For errors with symptoms such as power sometimes shuts off or screen sometimes goes out that cannot be confirmed, it is possible to bring up past occurrences of failure on the screen for confirmation.

To Bring Up Screen Test
In standby mode, press buttons on the Remote Commander sequentially, in rapid succession, as shown below:
DISPLAY Channel 5 Sound volume - Power ON.

SELF DIAGNOSIS
2: +B OCP 0
3: +B OVP 0
4: VSTOP 0
5: AKB 1
6: LOWB 0
7: H-STOP 0
101: WDT 24

Handling of Self-Diagnostic Screen Display
Since the diagnostic results displayed on the screen are not automatically cleared, always check the self-diagnostic screen during repairs. When you
have completed the repairs, clear the result display to 0.
Unless the result display is cleared to 0, the self-diagnostic function will not be able to detect subsequent faults after completion of the repairs.

Clearing the Result Display
To clear the result display to 0, press buttons on the Remote Commander sequentially when the diagnostic screen is displayed, as shown below:
Channel 8 ENTER

Quitting the Self-Diagnostic Screen
To quit the entire self-diagnostic screen, turn off the power switch on the Remote Commander or the main unit.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
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post #115 of 1688
5/6/08 at 5:03pm
Thread Starter 
Sorry... here is what the letters stand for in the self-diagnostic....

--------------------------------------------------------------

+B overcurrent (OCP)
Occurs when excessive current flows through R5013. The increase in voltage across R5013 causes the output of Q5004 to go high, and this high signal goes to the micro.

+B overvoltage (OVP)
IC6505 detects +B OVP condition and turns on Q6522. This sends a high signal to the micro and also shuts down the AC relay.

V-STOP
Occurs when an absence of the vertical deflection pulse is detected by pin 24 of IC2801 (B Board). Power supply will shut down when waveform interval exceeds 2 seconds.

White Balance Failure
If the RGB levels* do not balance within 2 seconds after the power is turned on, this error will be detected by IC2801. TV will stay on, but there will be no picture.
*(Refers to the RGB levels of the AKB detection Ref pulse that detects 1K).

Low B OCP/OVP
Occurs when set 5V is out.

Horizontal Deflection Stopped
Occurs when either:
1) a +B overcurrent is detected (IC5007), or
2) overheating is detected (Thermistor TH5002).

---------------------------------------------------------------

Hope this helps

Thanks
Mark
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post #116 of 1688
5/13/08 at 3:24pm
Well, like many others, I have started researching why my kv40xbr800 won't turn on and I have the 6 blink standby light. I am trying to find the parts for the ic's on the sony website, but all I can find are manuals. Can someone give me a link to where I can order these? I also saw that someone replaced the full Dboard. How difficult ( am fairly handy with tools, etc but never worked on circuit boards before) is it to replace the ic's?
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post #117 of 1688
5/13/08 at 6:27pm
I'm consistently getting 6 or 7 blinking lights on my 34xbr910 when I try to turn it on. Sometimes it works, most of the time it doesn't. I managed to get into the service menu tonight and the values are all set to zero, with the exception of "low b" which is "1". Does this narrow down what part I need to replace? I'd also have to get ahold of the service manual to attempt any repairs, as I opened my set up tonight and have no idea how to get the D board out so I can desolder the two IC's that everyone in this thread has been replacing.
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post #118 of 1688
5/14/08 at 3:40am
mxrider

Please try post #108 -111 for the step-by-step fix.

Parts2) 18-pin IC Sockets from ALLELECTRONICSDOTCOM 1-800-826-5432 for .30 each, plus $7.00 shipping = $7.60
(2) MCZ3001DB Shindengen IC's from TRISTATEMODULEDOTCOM 1-800-203-7484 for $5.99 each, plus $2.25 shipping = $14.23

Total cost: $21.83

It really wasn't that hard to replace the chips. If you need more info, perhaps I can help?

--------------------------------------------------------------------

Shadowknight

Your "Sometimes it works, most of the time it doesn't." symptom sounds like the same power issue I had. Perhaps the same chips need replaced? Do posts #114 -115 help?
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post #119 of 1688
5/14/08 at 3:58am
Actually, I found posts 114-115 kind of confusing. I know it's quoting from the manual verbatim, and the writers of the original document just weren't clear.
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post #120 of 1688
5/14/08 at 4:38am
Quote:
Originally Posted by eclipsedave View Post

mxrider

Please try post #108 -111 for the step-by-step fix.

Parts2) 18-pin IC Sockets from ALLELECTRONICSDOTCOM 1-800-826-5432 for .30 each, plus $7.00 shipping = $7.60
(2) MCZ3001DB Shindengen IC's from TRISTATEMODULEDOTCOM 1-800-203-7484 for $5.99 each, plus $2.25 shipping = $14.23

Total cost: $21.83

It really wasn't that hard to replace the chips. If you need more info, perhaps I can help?

--------------------------------------------------------------------

Shadowknight

Your "Sometimes it works, most of the time it doesn't." symptom sounds like the same power issue I had. Perhaps the same chips need replaced? Do posts #114 -115 help?

TYVM!

All parts now ordered. Will update once I give this a go.
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