You have a Sony that won't power on and the standby light blinks... Help and suggesti - Page 31

As to where to buy from? I would try TSM (Tristatemodule.com). If the web site don't show instock just call them, they do have them even if it does not show. I am replacing them in a friends TV here this week and had gone to them before and the website didn't show in stock, but when I called they said they just didn't have it updated recently (but had like hundreds in stock).
Also, since I am replacing them in his, I will make sure to take pics and if you can wait a little longer I will post them. I remove the D-board and set it in an upright position (for his though it wouldn't be on the matching stand. but you can do this on the stand, if that is what you have?). I will take pics of all the necessary wires/connectors to disconnect and show positions. But, keep in mind that yours might be slightly different (minor differences I am sure. Most these TVs are very similar inside).

Be around Thursday or Friday when I get the pics on here.

I hope these pics will help others, too.

To give it in say "laymen" terms.
Basically what RobertF and blue_z are saying is that....
If the MCZ3001D chips were working to their specs then the problem would be what the manual says. BUT, since these chips have a high failure rate (Sony nor any manufacture of electronics would have that in their manual, unless it is an updated version where they may mention it and suggest another solution. but being that it is electronics and is out of date within a year they more then likely won't update them that way). Now I am sure when Sony was making the TV and the manual for, they were sitting there thinking....well what if this chip bad? should it give a separate code?....NO! they will assume that what they use will always work the way it was intended to. OK, with that said. These chips are like middle men in the chain of events to come up with the troubleshooting circuitry's displayed problem to why the TV will not come on for you. In other words, if the chips fail (burn up, short, whatever will cause them not to be working properly) they will give a false reading to the monitoring circuit and in turn the monitoring circuit will think it is the problem of what that input is telling it. And to the monitoring circuit it is a LOW +B OCP/OVP (overcurrent/overvoltage) problem.
Those (MCZ3001D) chips are the link between the LOW +B OCP/OVP and the monitoring circuit that gives the codes to let a repairman locate where to look for a solution. Any repairman will tell you that is just a starting point to troubleshoot and is not the actual problem. Sometimes it is just the fault of the monitoring "chip" (yes it is most likely another chip that looks at all these different inputs and says "check here for solution").
It took me a lot of searching to find someone with some knowledge of (and experience with) these MCZ chips going bad. I was much like you when first searching, got the manual and it said this or that was problem. But after reading and getting guys like RobertF and JDRE with background on this issue. I just went and replaced and to my surprise "wala" WORKS!
Now! true! yours could be the LOW+B problem? We can't say for 100% fact it is the MCZ chips. But, with most it is the chips and not to many around said the power circuitry failed like the manual says it should be the fault. Which would you believe it to be?? That's the question you have to ask?

Sorry for the long post..Hope it helps though?
Thanks for everyone's support and input here.

Those are wire connectors (mostly power. ie: +15v,-15v,etc). They can be disconnected to allow the removal of either board. It is tricky but with a tiny screw driver and small fingers. Multiple screws and a couple clips (on the outside of board near the flyback trans and usually bad ICs) hold the board in place.

I haven't gotten into friends TV just yet to take pics, but plan on taken a bunch to show how I do it (I remove the D-board, to an extent).