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"Cheap Seats" HT - Low budget build - Page 2

post #31 of 74
Thread Starter 
Pretty much finished running all the main wiring and just moving cables and such to the back of the rack (cat5 run for HD Cable, coax cable for satellite, etc). I need to wire in a couple drops for rear speakers so I can set up 7.1.

Now, here's the big question. Keeping in mind that this isn't really a rack I'm not actually rack-mounting my EP2500. But, the 2500 has mounting brackets that don't come off. See photos below.



So, do I break out the hacksaw? Hopefully Tom (YW84U) will chime in with some brilliance. Since I'm ripping off his design, a little help won't hurt, eh? The BFD has rack-mount brackets, but they come off. Tom... what did you do with yours?
post #32 of 74
Hi Devon,

I can't offer any brilliance, but hopefully I have an idea that will avoid use of a hacksaw

Looking at your inside framing, I see that you have 'extra room' to the sides of the components (maybe 1.5 inches each side). The Europower and BFD both have the standard width 19" rack tabs - this will turn out to be your 'maximum base width measurement'. You can then cut your faceplates to line up with the factory rack screws from the two components. I took the brackets off of my BFD, but in your situation you could leave them on for consistency if you like. Seeing as you want your surface trim molding to sit flush up against the faceplate edges and you want some wood in behind to secure the screws into, you could likely get away with furring out the inside of the frame with a 2x4 (or whatever measurement keeps things equal on both sides but enough to engage the screws) on each side - make individual short blocks for the 'void' between each of the shelf spacings, and attach them to the inside of the frame with screws so you can remove or change them in the future.



This would provide a surface to mount the screws for the plates as well as the 'ears' for the BFD and Eurpower. The other benefit is that it would remove any 'tippiness' of the shelf fronts, as they would be sandwiched by the furring blocks. The downside would be that if you wanted to move a shelf, you would have to pop off the blocks and cut new ones, but hey - you'd likely have to fashion up a new faceplate anyway . I would use the BFD to measure how wide to fur out with a block, and run the whole length of each side with the same amount, covering it with whatever molding will face the room. This would keep everything flush to the wall, and leave you the option of using the original screw holes from the rack components.

I hope that helps - I'll keep trying to think of other scenarios throughout the day an try and get back to you!

Cheers,
post #33 of 74
Another option for the amp would be just leave it out of the rack and put it somewhere behind the rack if you dont want to cut the mounting brackets off and they get in your way.

This way its in your computer room and you wont be able to hear it.
post #34 of 74
Thread Starter 
Both good ideas, but I have to say I see flaws in both. Trev's is simplest, but I don't want to hide anything. Spent money on the damn stuff... wanna see it. Besides, I replaced the wood-chipper-sounding fan with a nice quiet unit.

Tom's idea would be great, but the damn 2500's rack ears stick out 1/2" beyond the front of the unit. So a face plate that sits against the back of the ears would have a hole along the top and bottom edges of the amp. If I flush up the plate with the front of the amp, then the ears protrude out the front. Hacksaw's lookin' better

Tom, the 'framing' you're seeing there is actually 3/4" plywood. The rough opening is 21.5", then I lined the insides with 3/4" for the faceplate screws, leaving me with a 20" opening. I also took your earlier advice in your thread and screwed a strip of wood down the right side of the shelves, tying them all together. No tippage now, and it's a great place to mount some split loom stuff for wiring.

It'll be a while before I get to face plates, so there's time to think it over. I won't hack up stuff just yet
post #35 of 74
Great work! I had one question about the BFD, have you had problems with feedback in your set up? Or is this preventative measures? thanks,

Jim
post #36 of 74
Thread Starter 
Jim,
It's sort-of preventative, but if you do some searching on here you'll find a lot of guys use the BFD mostly for it's parametric eq features and trying to flatten the response curve of the LFE.
post #37 of 74
Quote:
Originally Posted by DevonS View Post

Jim,
It's sort-of preventative, but if you do some searching on here you'll find a lot of guys use the BFD mostly for it's parametric eq features and trying to flatten the response curve of the LFE.

Same here BFQ2496 used for sub bass LCRS extension and the LFE.1 track only played over two different subs.

Nice little home cinema all you need is 6 or 7 inches of raised platform for the back sofa to make clear rear viewing.

I would put those seats high above those leather seats because there far too noisy!
post #38 of 74
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by JBLsound4645 View Post

Nice little home cinema all you need is 6 or 7 inches of raised platform for the back sofa to make clear rear viewing.

I would put those seats high above those leather seats because there far too noisy!

Thanks! The sofas aren't in "theatre position" anymore, so I won't need a riser as of yet. We'll see what the future holds
post #39 of 74
Quote:
Originally Posted by DevonS View Post

So, do I break out the hacksaw? Hopefully Tom (YW84U) will chime in with some brilliance. Since I'm ripping off his design, a little help won't hurt, eh? The BFD has rack-mount brackets, but they come off. Tom... what did you do with yours?

Devon,

Did you ever decide to hacksaw those ears off? I'm considering doing the same thing. My other option is to sell it and get another amp without the ears.
post #40 of 74
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by swithey View Post

Devon,

Did you ever decide to hacksaw those ears off? I'm considering doing the same thing. My other option is to sell it and get another amp without the ears.

I'm pretty much sold on the idea of cutting them off. Not too interested in selling/buying/researching just because of a couple metal tabs. Let the metal fly!!

Since I'm posting anyway... an update:
Got the X10 stuff I ordered on eBay. An IR module and a SuperSocket. Installed them with minimal swearing, added the X10 device to my Harmony and was turning a lamp off and on with no problems. Damn that plug-in is loud tho. Turning it on/off delivers quite a loud 'clack'. Whatever, it'll do the trick.

Now... come ooooooooooon MonoPrice... I want my cables. I'm dying to get this all hooked up and start on the face plates.
post #41 of 74
Thread Starter 
Well, it's done. My rackmount amp is no longer rack-mountable. I found out that the 'ears' are two separate pieces of metal, one that is removable and the other that is part of the entire case. That one fell victim to THE SAW... bwa ha ha ha haaaa!

Pics:
Showing the two-part rack ears, screws are coming out.


Removable ear-piece removed.


One ear lopped off. It looks like a huge gap from this angle, but it's not that bad as you'll see later. I chose to make my cuts at the first set of holes from the removable ears. This is about 1/8" back from the front of the amp


The Ear-less 2500. Looks more like Charles Bronson and less like Prince Charles now.


Closeup of one of the sides... front view. Doesn't look like a huge gap now.


And finally, after all that hacking, I needed to lubricate my shoulder. Nothing like dicing up AV equipment to make ya thirsty!
post #42 of 74


Those Berhringer Europowers' are among the best value in Main Power Amplification that exists today.

That Monster of yours drives down to 2 Ohms, and at 4 Ohms delivers 1200 wpc x 2 ! Thats so What you pay...? $399.00? $425.00? Even at the higher price that's under $0.50 a watt. That's almost unheard of. But still

And they are "Musical Amps" as well, not just a source of Uber-Power for Sub and Tactile LFE systems. Imagine a system using 4 of the EP1500's. 7 channels @ 700 wpc + 1- 700 watt channel for a Sub/Tactile system. The EP1500 only costs $299.00 at most ($199 B-Stock!) That get a fellow A "B-Stock" rack of 5600 watts of power for $800.00? Pretty awe inspiring....and what a great service you did bringing such to everyone's attention.

I really admire the job you did creating a Black Velvet Wall to frame your S-I-L-V-E-R screen with. I've done a few myself and it's "De Bomb"

And speaking about bringing things to the attention of the Starveling masses, Do you have / can you post up some actual images, and offer up your take on the Screen's performance? many would appreciate the input, and perhaps it might help to counter recent negative and self serving commentary that S-I-L-V-E-R is a inferior DIY application to some/one particular others.

Spectacular build Devon, keep inspiring others....it's a satisfying addition to the enjoyment your project brings you.

MMan

PS,
Molson is a great suppliment for experience!
post #43 of 74
Thread Starter 
Thaks for the words of encouragement, MM. Your advice and coaching went a long way to the success of my screen... and my entire setup.

The 2500 was recommended by titch--. He's got a 1500 and said if he were to do it again he'd go 2500 (he'll probably go bigger/better since he has upgradeitus), so I just went with it. Right now I've got that sucker running 4 ohms mono for a whopping 2400 watts! Not like it'll ever hit that number, but saying "twenty-four HUNDRED watts" sounds pretty damn cool

Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

That get a fellow A "B-Stock" rack of 5600 watts of power for $800.00? Pretty awe inspiring....and what a great service you did bringing such to everyone's attention.

I may have in a roundabout way brought it to peoples' attention, but you just articulated it perfectly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

I really admire the job you did creating a Black Velvet Wall to frame your S-I-L-V-E-R screen with. I've done a few myself and it's "De Bomb"

Thanks! Although, I didn't go with a fabric as expensive and fancy as velvet. Just some simple black material I couldn't see thru from Wally world. Cheapest I could find.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Do you have / can you post up some actual images, and offer up your take on the Screen's performance?

I don't have any currently. I could take some, but my camera skills are horrible. I've taken screenies and they always do a very poor job of representing what I actually see. I'll practice and get 'er done.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Spectacular build Devon, keep inspiring others....it's a satisfying addition to the enjoyment your project brings you.

don't know how much inspiring I've done, but I have been inspired many times here on good ol' AVS. I just love that people offer their creativity and want/expect others to use their ideas in their own setup.

Now if only I could hit that damn lottery and compete with some of the guys investing a half mill in their theatre.
post #44 of 74
Quote:
Originally Posted by DevonS View Post

Well, it's done. My rackmount amp is no longer rack-mountable. I found out that the 'ears' are two separate pieces of metal, one that is removable and the other that is part of the entire case. That one fell victim to THE SAW... bwa ha ha ha haaaa!

You are a bold man . I decided to sell my EP2500 and try out a Dayton amp. It is 1000 watts at 4ohm, no ears and silent (no fan). A buddy of mine is letting me borrow his to see how well it works out.

BTW -- how did you hack off the ear without scratching the front? Did you disassemble more of the amp than you showed in your pics? OR was it just careful sawing?
post #45 of 74
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by swithey View Post

BTW -- how did you hack off the ear without scratching the front? Did you disassemble more of the amp than you showed in your pics? OR was it just careful sawing?

I went at them from the side. I'm finding it's really hard to explain stuff, even with pictures. In this one, the amp is sitting on it's side. I hacked off the ear about 1/4" from the front. I never had the saw near the front of the amp.

This left me with a piece looking similar to the one that comes off with a screwdriver
post #46 of 74
Quote:
Originally Posted by DevonS View Post


I don't have any currently. I could take some, but my camera skills are horrible. I've taken screenies and they always do a very poor job of representing what I actually see. I'll practice and get 'er done.

Devon,

Most decent Digicams can be made to produce reasonably accurate images of "on screen" content.

Here are some valuable tips and suggestions. (...a few "opinions as well.)
  • Set the camera up centered on the screen on a stable surface or Tripod.
  • The "picture taking height" should also be centered on the screen...Top to bottom wise. I use the Rung of a Ladder quite often and my "ledge".
  • Zoom in until you have effectively framed the image and approx 1' of the surrounding area. Zooming attenuates the reflective light allowing for less chance of "Washout". Even when shooting from farther away to capture a "Room Shot", always engage the Zoom a bit to compensate. S-I-L-V-E-R has the tendency to overdrive the Light meter, what with it's being so dynamic, so this Tip is all the more vital.*
  • Use your Timer (2-10 seconds) if possible. Doing so eliminates any chance of vibration as you press the shutter. The camera will be shooting at up to or over 1/2 second exposure at times so any shaking will result in blurred images.
  • When you do a "Ambient shot", take one with minimal Zoom that is as seen from a distance, so the light level of the room becomes apparent. Then Zoom in further for a "Framed" shot. Compare the difference in Contrast as shown between the two to determine if the Camera is metering just the screen, or the Room as a whole. Without using Zoom to attenuate the light in the center of the image
  • Always shoot on "Auto".
  • Always set your Light Metering and Focus field for a "Center" sampling, not multiple points.


*
If you have continued issues with your screen image showing up as a beacon of light, it's because many Digi's have an inordinate ability to gather light. Sometimes if you direct the camera's lens to a point just to the side of the screen, press the shutter release enough to engage "Focus and Metering" then swing back to center and shoot, the situation equalizes out. Or gets worse. But somewhere is the "balance, and by taking many practice shots using different adjustments, you will find a combo that produces usable images that come very close to matching what your seeing with the eye.

In many Cameras you can adjust your LCD screen's qualities. In the long run, taking many images as practice, and getting the Camera set up so that the taken image seen in the LCD Viewer shows to be as "You see it in front of you" will get you as close to where you can be using such a device.

Much criticism about screen shots come from those who can never seem to get decent results (...go figure....) while others state that the Camera tips the scales in favor of results that look better than they do actually. Or worse, often MUCH worse.

Well all that can be, and is true in many cases. But those cases almost always involve improperly set up and adjusted gear, or sometimes simply poor cameras. Using the Eye, and memory is more accurate than some would have you believe. Really, it's you who must judge, and then post accordingly.

I myself have used Cameras ranging fro 1mp up to 8mp, priced from $99.00 to $500.00 and have found none that could not be "optimized" for taking Screen Shots using the simple tips above, that "to the Eye" represent what is seen on screen. But that's me. It could/should be you as well.

A truly sad thing is this; The better your Screenies look, the more they impose upon the sensibilities of those who either resent what your implying with such, or have reason to discount them because of what they "do" represent. Generally speaking, the more someone rails against you/them, the more obvious it is they have a axe hiding somewhere they are continually grinding.

In reality, if you take an image, post it, and state irrevocably that what is shown is as it was when it was "seen", people of good character won't arbitrarily deny your credibility. The few others? Mostly just Sour Grapes or jealousy fuels their responses, so it always better to ignore such trivialities.

It's supposed to be fun, isn't it?
post #47 of 74
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the continuted assistance, MM! I'll set up the tripod and keep tinkering till I get it right. Your tips should make that process a lot quicker.

Now, I need to throw in some snaps of the rack progress. My earless Behringer is at the top of the rack, so it's the first to get a face plate. After a quick couple cuts with the scoring tool I had the blank ready to go. Then made a pile of measurements, did some math and drew the shape of the amp onto the plexi. I then drilled holes in the corners to give a place to start the jigsaw. Cut inside the lines with the jigger and went to give it a try. After a few hours of filing and eventually digging out the angle grinder , it fits like a glove.




Nice and tight. Now the fun part will be getting the next plate to line up with the component AND the plate above it. We'll see how that goes!
post #48 of 74
Thread Starter 
4 down, 3 more to go...



And the back... just because
post #49 of 74
Thread Starter 
Been a while, but I finally got the rack and the bar finished.

Before...


After...




That's it for now!
post #50 of 74
Sweet looking rack! A real nice job!
post #51 of 74
Quote:
Originally Posted by DevonS View Post

I also picked up a Tripp-Lite Omni 1000 LCD UPS from Costco.

What do you think about the Tripp-Lite Omni 1000 LCD UPS. I have a surge protector already but am thinking about getting this for noise suppression/cleaning.
post #52 of 74
those blanks are killer! what did you make those from?
post #53 of 74
You said the face plates are made of plexi? how thick did you use so it wouldn't crack while cutting?

Victor
post #54 of 74
Quick question..

Looking at this pic


I noticed how your satellite box, EQ and Trip Lite are centered on the face plate vertically. Did you prop those up with something "behind the scenes" so that they appear centered and also allow the seam between faceplate to line up with the black shelf (to help hide the crack)? Not sure I worded that correctly??
post #55 of 74
Thread Starter 
Holy crap... don't check in for a week or two and I have posts to answer! Cool.

Ok, armin_t: Our power has been rock solid ever since I got the Omni. Which is to say it hasn't gone out so the Omni hasn't been tested. I never had power noise issues that I could detect so couldn't comment on the noise filtering. I do have a ground loop issue that the Omni did not address. I got the UPS mainly for the projector and it was a pretty good deal at Costco.

Vcook and Victor: yes, the plates are made of plexi. I don't recall the thickness exactly but it's around 1/16". Very thin anyway. I used a scoring tool to cut it to length/width and it snapped very cleanly. Then a jigsaw did the rest. Didn't have any cracking issues. One thing I did notice however is that heat affects the plates. They seem to bow out when things heat up. Nobody notices but me, but.... They were actually quite easy to make and I was able to crank one out and have a coat of paint on it in under an hour. But the first one took probably 4 hours. Learn as you go!

Steve: None of he components have any additional support. When I used Tom's measuring scheme (YW84U) it all just kind of worked out. Most of the plates hit the next shelf from what I can recall. I think I attached another piece to the bottom of one shelf but that was to help with the bowing issue I mentioned before. If the light is on in the room behind then you can see the little gaps around components and between shelves, but I make sure the junk room is vacant when people are checkin the theatre
post #56 of 74
What is a BFD ? Somekind of satelitte receiver ?
post #57 of 74
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Theater_nut View Post

What is a BFD ? Somekind of satelitte receiver ?

BFD is a Behringer Feedback Destroyer. It's a pro-audio component that was designed more for live shows, like concerts and clubs, to eliminate feedback through the sound system. Stuff like the microphone squeal and such. It's quite popular with the Home Theatre crowd because of it's parametric equalizer. You can target specific frequencies over a range of octaves and increase or decrease output levels to flatten the response curve of your subwoofer. For about $100, you can't go wrong.
post #58 of 74
Ok, this is seriously a cool build. Very well done with a relative budget. Everything looks great!
post #59 of 74
if the blanks are plexi, then what did you coat them with to make them black? They look great, and I dont want to spend $58 per blanks for MA customs for my rack!
post #60 of 74
Thread Starter 
Thanks eightnine! It is coming along quite nicely. Next on my agenda is to completely re-do the screen wall and subs. The screen will be bigger; 111", there will be a wall down the left of the theatre instead of being open, and I'm putting 2 15" Atlas subs on each side of the screen. boom.

VCook: I just used flat black spraypaint. 2 coats on the pretty side and that's it. One plate got all weird and crackle-paint looking. I'm guessing it was static from the protective plastic sheet that gets removed before painting. I just rubbed 'em down with a dryer sheet to kill static cling
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